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RedSquare

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Thanks...

 

Well, today I did manage to remove engine and tranny from my 720 today

 

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Yup, I did it all by myself today, because every time I have help, something usually gets dented, bent or broken. I had none of that today working solo.

 

Just a man and his cat....

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Nice work. I feel the same way though. It's just like asking your friend to help you move. They don't care if they put a hole in the wall helping you.

My brother had his keys on his waist and leaned up against my truck to look in the bay and I nearly lost it.

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I didn't do much of anything this weekend, other than get parts for my truck in the mail and buy a pressure washer. O'yeah, I went to a car show today and got inspired even more by this mini Toyota that was body dropped, on airbags and drop spindles. 

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I also admired his carb setup and paint work (btw, he won a few trophies today, including best paint, on a chopper he painted).

 

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Needless to say, I got his number and business card today. Although I have no plans for a body drop or airbags, I wouldn't mind him painting my pickup its OEM color. I'm going more of the performance route and I do plan on Autocrossing it on occasion.

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Beware of buying replacement parts from Mexico, on eBay. I got my package in today, and most if not all items have quality issues.

 

The top fender badge is the new one. It's "new" despite having those abrasions marks in the chrome and black backing too. Not to mention, the chrome is wavey like some chrome plated child toys or garish shit you find at the flea market. NOT going on my truck. 

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No alignment pins on the back either...

 

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The problem with the half clear/amber combination light is that the white housing has yellowed with age (a little white paint for plastic will fix that right up). Luckily its not the lense itself. 

 

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Not too long ago, I went to the local pick-n-pull, looking for the appropriate Toyota pickup, to do a 5-lug conversion on my 720.  I walked the whole yard and came up empty handed :confused:  As I was walking back, I saw two Toyota pickups in the "do not disturb" section. I asked the guy at the counter, "WTF"???" and he told me there was a local guy buying up all the small Toyota and Nissan trucks to send overseas for parts!!!! He understood that I was jonesing for some of the parts, and he told me to go ahead, since the guy was late claiming the trucks. Even more luckily for me, the rear-end was already removed and I made quick work of the front hubs. About  30-minutes later, I was on my way home with my haul B)

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Today, I started to prep the parts for my truck

 

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Degreased the front hubs with BLACK MAXX from my local NAPA. It's the BEST degreaser I've ever used and I've used it on all of my project cars. Anyway, the hubs are now ready for machining, as per nis720's instructions.

 

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This is the biggest project I've ever used VHT epoxy paint on, and I hope it doesn't let me down. I may use it on my truck frame instead of Martin-Senour epoxy paint from NAPA.

 

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I didn't bother painting the drum housing or backing plate, because I'll refurb/replace them when the rear-end is on the truck.

 

Until next time.

 

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^ Because cats.

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Not much of an update, because today was really about me refurbing my S14's interior and starting it's 5-speed swap, but I did find time to prep and paint my Pacesetter Z24 header. As you may or may not know, some Pacesetter headers come with the "standard black painted finish". This finish is not made to withstand the heat cycles of automotive use, but only to stop the steel from rusting. I removed most of the finish with a chemical stripper, sandpaper, acetone and a pressure washer (not necessarily in that order) ;)

 

 

 

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Header mounted on Harbor Freight jack stand....

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...and remaining piping on a shovel in the ground :thumbup:

 

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After about 3 layers of primer and 3 layers of top coat, this is where we are. I chose the "white" VHT FLAMEPROOF™ COATING....

 

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Per VHT directions, I must now "cure" the items in my oven (or on the car/truck)...

 

"Off the Vehicle
Paint must be completely dry before curing
Heat to 250°F (121°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 400°F (204°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 650°F (343°C ) for 30 minutes
Caution: Do not exceed the temperature of the least heat tolerant component or the base metal"

 

I'll probably do that Monday to give it plenty of drying time.

 

B)

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I made my own bike rack using a fork clamps and a 4 foot section of aluminum angle iron cut in half. I'm too lazy to post a picture, but I essentially wanted to use the existing holes in the tops of the rails from my tool box to mount the clamps. So the bikes sit sideways like an "X" behind the cab.

Maybe I'll stop being lazy and post a picture tomorrow.

It will make more sense at least...

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  • 1 year later...

Some ST models had the wood grain or stainless dash inserts, oil and volt gauges, tac and clock, power windows and door locks, sun roof, and rear window defroster, stainless tailgate Nissan, wheel well trim, flip down dome/cargo light that was on a timer, lighted and timed ignition key whole, lighted cigarette lighter..

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