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Hitachi Carb


jboulukos

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After endless tweeking, vacuum leak fixing, fast idling and anti-dieseling solenoid swapping, I am thinking of purchasing a remanufactured carb from national carburetor. The B210 carb for 1978 runs $149 plus $40 for core charge (not sure what that means). Anyway, my question is has anyone tried a carb from this company?

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After endless tweeking, vacuum leak fixing, fast idling and anti-dieseling solenoid swapping, I am thinking of purchasing a remanufactured carb from national carburetor. The B210 carb for 1978 runs $149 plus $40 for core charge (not sure what that means). Anyway, my question is has anyone tried a carb from this company?

 

Thanks 420, I have 4 other carbs. I'll give them a rusted one without the anti-dieseling solenoid on it. We'll see if that will fly. Do you think it's a good try to get one of the carbs? I don't dabble too much on my own and labor costs can build up. My experience in Seattle was not the best as far as finding someone who can fix the carb and get me on my way without something happening 1 week later. I am now in Chicago and have my B210 in the garage away from salt. I just want to get a decent carb thats been cleaned and tested and operates above average.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I bought one from guaranteed carbs in florida and it works just fine. Don't know about national carb, I know I talked to them but i think they said they didn't have one and I'd have to send mine in to rebuild and it would take a few weeks. Guaranteed got mine ready and to me within a week of ordering.

 

Do you know of an aftermarket air cleaner, or an adapter for one, that will fit our stock carbs?

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I bought one from guaranteed carbs in florida and it works just fine. Don't know about national carb, I know I talked to them but i think they said they didn't have one and I'd have to send mine in to rebuild and it would take a few weeks. Guaranteed got mine ready and to me within a week of ordering.

 

Do you know of an aftermarket air cleaner, or an adapter for one, that will fit our stock carbs?

 

I got a 4 or 6 inch (I don't remember exactly, it was about 8 years ago) cheapy aftermarket circular chrome air cleaner from Pepboys that fit the hitachi carbs. If I remember right it had a rubber adapter gasket to get it to the right size, I think it was for a chevy or something. I basically just measured across the top of the carb and went and looked around. The aftermarket ones will usually have a size range they fit.

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I bought my first B210 in 1980 (a used 77) and have owned at least a dozen of the them since. I have never found any remaned carb to be worth my dime. You would be a lot better off asking around and finding and old school mechanic to rebuild it. for about the same money. I f you think about it you are thinking of sending in your junkiest core, which is the same thing every one else does.....you r buying some one's garbage. Only so much life in any cast part, they can't all be saved. If you have a decent carb now, find some one you can trust it to bring it up to par.

 

 

That my friend is my two cents.

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Or, buy a good used Weber for $100. One for a Datsun 620 or 510 will run pretty good without rejetting. You do need the right adapter plate for an A-series engine. You take the throttle lever off the Hitachi and bolt to the Weber and make a bracket to hold the throttle cable (or you can buy all these parts new for Webers).

 

By the way, a Weber won't run quite as good as a perfect Hitachi, but will allow the engine to make more power over 5000 RPM.

 

I bought a good running 1980 210 carb off eBay for $20. But many are worn out. So are some WEbers.

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  • 1 month later...

I installed the rebuilt Hitachi stock Carb into my 1.4 4 spped stick carb, and I have so many issues with the vaccum hoses, there are a few stupid selenoid vaccum valves tha seems to be shot at the electrical part,,they are made by Hitachi,,and no were to be finded.

 

I'm going Mad with the Fumes, I have an appointment to take it to Datsun Ville down in Burlangame Ca, two weeks from now, hope they can figure out the issue, or just let the Vaccum that goes to the distributor and remove the rest of those stupid hoses.

 

Sorry, I'm so frustated,,,th ecar runs, but I can feel esitation, and the Carburator seems to work fine.

 

Asta.

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On my B210, it had a ton of carb problems when I got it. As we learned on my friend's B210, there's a cheap/easy fix for it. :cool:

 

If you can find a '70-73 Datsun 1200 carburetor, remove your stock carb, remove the jets from it, swap those jets into the 1200 carb, problem solved. ;)

 

The 1200 carb will bolt right onto a B210 or 210. And they are usually a lot cheaper than a Weber. Plus no somg, no electronics, no nothing. The one I used on my car hadn't been ran in 10+ years and still worked perfectly right away.

 

Swapping the jets is very easy too. Just flip the carb over and you'll see what looks like two 12mm bolts. They are actually caps. Screw them off, and with a flat head screwdriver you can screw out the primary and secondary jets. Do the same on the 1200 carb and screw the B210/210 jets into the 1200 carb. Takes two minutes to do. Just don't mix up the jets. :D

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well yes sound real easy, but htere is no 1200 Datsun arround that is willing to donate (sale) the Carb!!!

 

there have to be another easy way to plug the F^%4 lines,,I got most of them unpluged, away from the carb, I just lefted the Distribuitor Vaccum line because I know that tha's the only one that is needed to advance ..move the distribuitor cam....other than that,,there is a thing on top of the Carb that supossed open one of the trotle flaps...I think that one needs vaccum to function,,and I suspenct that that is the one tha's messing with me.

 

thanks for the advice do, if I find the carb from the 1200, I will swap it in.

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all right, I starrt to get a good feeling of how the Vaccum thing work, withc is part of the stupid emissions system on the car.

 

here is a link of what I'm reading it ilustrate real nice with images and wirted details.

 

hope is of good use for the others here.

 

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Emission_Controls#Ported_Vacuum_Advance

 

this link wil ilustrate the trotle oppener thing.

http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=11625

 

thanks.

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ha,,I got it...I just canceled the main vaccum going into the intake manifold I put a plug on it, car runs clean, and great aceleration curve,,streight up....hope this helps others with this issue. until I find some after market stupid throttle vaccum electric oppener, and all the other gismos that make the car run cleaner.

 

I pluged the distribuitor to the higer vaccum port in the distribuitor,,so htere is zero vaccum at iddle, ( the vaccum port at the bottom of the carb has always vaccum ,,this is not good for the carb at iddle /timming issues.

 

good night.

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On my B210, it had a ton of carb problems when I got it. As we learned on my friend's B210, there's a cheap/easy fix for it. :cool:

 

If you can find a '70-73 Datsun 1200 carburetor, remove your stock carb, remove the jets from it, swap those jets into the 1200 carb, problem solved. ;)

 

The 1200 carb will bolt right onto a B210 or 210. And they are usually a lot cheaper than a Weber. Plus no somg, no electronics, no nothing. The one I used on my car hadn't been ran in 10+ years and still worked perfectly right away.

 

Swapping the jets is very easy too. Just flip the carb over and you'll see what looks like two 12mm bolts. They are actually caps. Screw them off, and with a flat head screwdriver you can screw out the primary and secondary jets. Do the same on the 1200 carb and screw the B210/210 jets into the 1200 carb. Takes two minutes to do. Just don't mix up the jets. :D

 

Freakin' sweet, I had been wondering if you could do that, but didn't want to take the car down to try. Thanks!

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