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The Greengoon Build Thread 2.0 // Refresh


greengoon

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I had the idea to build a cold air intake for my goon. Not so I could hang with the Hondas :lol: and not really for horsepower gain. The main reason was to gain easy access to adjust my electronic choke since the weather changes from really cold to really hot here. That, and to get rid of the stock air cleaner and tidy up the engine compartment.

 

There's not a lot of space above the carburetor on a stock L16 and I didn't find much info of anyone fabricating an adapter so I thought I'd figure something out. I was about to start mocking up a cardboard template to weld something out of sheet metal when I looked outside and saw a raingutter downspout adapter. You know the kind where you hook up the black corrugated pipe to extend the water flow away from the foundation. It had a good combination of square and round and I thought it just might work. I grabbed the piece which had been out in the sun for several years and took a quick Dremel to it. I figured I would make a template out of this one to see if it worked and then go get a new one at Depot or Lowes. It's a good thing I didn't screw this one up because it turns out, both Depot and Lowes had changed their designs and the new ones wouldn't work or look as well.

 

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I took some E6000 glue and some clear acrylic and extended the back of the adapter to cover the carb. Then I took some bondo, sanded and primed the piece. This was not a quick modification and it sat on the workbench in various stages for a long time. I finally kicked it into gear when JCCS 2010 was approaching.

 

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I bought a K&N cone filter and found a length of 3" aluminum intake tube that would work, got a good "ratsun deal" on a red 90 degree and some clamps and laid it all out. The biggest obstacle I had was trying to figure out how to attach it to the carb. My carb does not have anything tapped or tappable where I could attach to so after much experimenting, I ended up bending a piece of steel and attaching it to the factory intake manifold. It is nice and stable now and the whole assembly now comes off in one piece.

 

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The best part is the "DATSMO" sticker from Goki. It now looks like a factory Datsmo part. :D I did end up feeling a tiny bit of horsepower boost -or maybe it was a placebo- but it ended up being a great modification and I am very pleased with it. At the same time I finished it up I detailed my valve cover too with red matte vinyl and black paint. So far everything has held up extremely well to underhood heat.

 

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Do you have any pics of the finished floor modifications before the seat went in? I see pics of the driveshaft tunnel mods but not what you did over the diff itself?

 

Also, specs on the Rotas? :)

 

All he did was remove material above the diff so it could move up farther. Wagons are solid axle rear.

 

As for the rotas, they are 15x7 et+20

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All he did was remove material above the diff so it could move up farther.

 

I get that. Just wanted to see what happened next. Did he just leave the hole there? Build up a taller "box" over it? Cover it in duct tape? Inquiring minds want to know...

 

Wagons are solid axle rear.

 

Wait, so like all of them are?!?

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All he did was remove material above the diff so it could move up farther. Wagons are solid axle rear.As for the rotas, they are 15x7 et+20

 

Thanks for the help, Laecaon. I guess I should post my wheel info in this thread too.

 

 

 

I get that. Just wanted to see what happened next. Did he just leave the hole there? Build up a taller "box" over it? Cover it in duct tape? Inquiring minds want to know...Wait, so like all of them are?!?

 

The two door and four door 510s have IRS but the wagons were all solid axle. The only way to get an IRS goon is to make one like Icehouse.

 

I cut out the whole center section above the diff. Then I removed the underside boxed area that connects the shock mounts. You can see the open boxed area on the side of the cut in this photo as it drops down into the passenger area. Then I just welded the cargo floor piece back in. I never took pictures back then but from the top it is all stock, just has the weld bead from putting it back in.

 

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In thinking about it, I probably should have put some sort of reinforcement between the two shock towers to replace the sheetmetal I removed but it has been several years with no issues. If the car was autocrossed I would probably strengthen it, though. Here is a view from underneath showing the cut out. Hopefully you can see the removed boxed area. I simply welded everything back together then sealed and painted it. Hopefully that helps. I'd be happy to help if you need more info.

 

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The two door and four door 510s have IRS but the wagons were all solid axle.

 

Having owned/built 23 510s, 4 of which are wagons, I am acutely aware of the differences in suspension. I was just joking. ;)

 

The only way to get an IRS goon is to make one like Icehouse.

 

That ain't the only way. :cool:

 

I cut out the whole center section above the diff. Then I removed the underside boxed area that connects the shock mounts. You can see the open boxed area on the side of the cut in this photo as it drops down into the passenger area. Then I just welded the cargo floor piece back in. I never took pictures back then but from the top it is all stock, just has the weld bead from putting it back in... I probably should have put some sort of reinforcement between the two shock towers to replace the sheetmetal I removed but it has been several years with no issues. If the car was autocrossed I would probably strengthen it, though. Here is a view from underneath showing the cut out. Hopefully you can see the removed boxed area. Hopefully that helps.

 

That's exactly what I needed to know/see. Thanks. :)

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Now that I'm about caught up to present day I should probably get to the current wheels. They are Rota RB 15x7 +20 Gunmetal with 175/55/15s all around. Say what you will about the never ending "fake" wheel debate but I think the RBs have a great, smooth look to them and they come in varying offsets which seems to be rare these days on affordable wheels. More detailed info can be found here in a wheel thread I started. These oics show the 1/4" spacer that I used in the rear the bring the wheels out right to the edge. I was a little worried about my thread length when I used the spacers so I won't be doing that again until I get longer studs. I probably could have gotten away with +12s in the back. The 175 tires are the key to getting the wider wheels to tuck beneath the thick wagon fender sheetmetal.

 

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Sure. Here you go.

 

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195/50s tend to be slightly wider than a 7" rim. The bead on the 175s is about flush with the edge of the rim and the tread stretches inward ever so slightly without being extreme. You lose that 10mm on either side but gain it in tucking space. These tires are not for everyone, I know, but they work for my situation. :D

 

 

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