Jump to content

Fisch's '71 510 LZ22 - "Chapman" Fogs and Bre Spook+art


fisch

Recommended Posts

Most current pic of the car. Got most of the cammo paint off one scotchbrite pad at a time, LOL.

Datsun_510_Fog.jpg

 

It seems fate wants me to have that wicked camo painted 510 that was for sale up in Maine! A buyer backed out and Chris (the mad scientist who built it.) dropped me a line and we made a deal. (Somehow, I got the OK from my amazing lady. Big thanks to her!)

The transaction is going to take place over the next week when Chris drops it off in my driveway after tweaking a few things. I still can't believe I could be sitting in this in a matter of days!

First things first, the paint will go. Not that it isn't cool in its own way, but you know me, I need a blank canvas!! The streetfighter 510 art would be a natural, but I have to ponder it a bit more. The good news is the original paint is under the rattlecan, so I will be investing in some wet sandpaper (Unless y'all have a better idea to remove it?)

From Chris: "BODY: '72 4 door, original Arizona car. Bought in 1990 in Maryland, pretty straight except for wrinkled rear panel and wavy trunk lid. Glass patched rot in rear quarters behind the rear wheels. Light rot at lower corner of both front fenders. Sheetmetal repaired driver's footwell, the rest of the floors and rockers are solid. Camo rattlecan paint over factory lemon yellow base (car was never repainted). Light bondo on the rear quarter from a PO (no damage visible from the inside). Door, window & trunk seals need replacing. glass is good, there is a hidden water leak somewhere in the front. Bullet mirrors on the doors. GM taxicab horns. generic halogen headlamps. Nice bumpers. No windshield washer bottle or squirters."
1025095592_BrQXq-M.jpg
1025092388_WGXAY-M.jpg



She is rough in spots, fenders fiberglassed, etc. But pretty solid over all ESPECIALLY for a NE car. Plus, cosmetics I can wrap my head around- but the stuff he did under the hood... well it is beyond me! What do you think, will she scoot? From Chris:

Oil Pan: Stock Datsun 510 L16
Block: Z22S Truck, bored .020 over, decked .005, honed for moly rings, all galleys tapped and plugged, oil dipstick relocated to passenger side, oil jet drilled to .110, chain guide holes retapped to accept 8mm bolts
Crank: Z22S Truck, rods and mains turned .010 and micro-polished
Rods: Z22S Truck, ARP rod bolts, resized big ends, balanced
Bearings: Federal Mogul
Pistons: Z22S Truck, NAPA replacement (cast) machined to flattops, polished, balanced
Rings: TotalSeal Moly Faced, zero gap second ring, hand filed top gap
Timing Cover: L20 Truck
Oil Pump: Nissan 280ZX
Front Pully: NAPZ24 Truck
Flywheel: Z24 Truck, 18#, used with Z22S 225mm clutch
Water Pump: NAPZ24, with 4 blade plastic fan
Distributor: A15 electronic, modified with ball bearing shaft and recurved for 14 degrees mechanical and 10 degrees vacuum advance
Timing Chain: NAPA replacement kit
Oil Pump Drive: L20
Head Gasket: NISMO Competition
Head Studs: ARP
Head: W53 closed chamber, mild valve unshrouding, venturi pocket porting, new spiral groove cast iron guides, new intake seats, intake and exhaust valve tips height equalized, 3 angle valve job hand blended
transitions. Intake ports gasket matched to 1.50” blended into stock 1.25 dia port. Intake ports and chambers equalized and cc’d. Oil passage blended to match block jet outlet location. Shaved .015 on the bottom and .017 on the top, Goodson .015 thick cam tower shims.
Valves: Manley Severe Duty stainless, flow relieved chrome stems, swirl polished, back cut radiused intake profile. 44mm intake, 35mm exhaust
Valve Seals: Felpro Viton
Springs: Norris 120# seat pressure at 1.60”
Retainers: L18, stock
Keepers: modified Chrysler Hemi
Lash Pads: Top End Performance, .210 -.240 high
Rockers: Hand selected for best valve stem tip alignment
Cam: DAMB grind, on a U20 L18 core 520L/268D measured at .025 lift, zero lash. Drilled and tapped cam rear for 3/8NPT plug
Cam Towers: 260Z with modified internal spray bar
Intake: Datsun SSS 1.50 runners with dry water passages
Carb Spacers: 3/4 thick epoxied marine plywood blended from 46mm to 38mm
Carbs: Z-Therapy Hitachi Z-car SU roundtops, with modified Z car airbox (integral air horns)
Plugs: NKG BPR6ES
Wires: Accel 8mm
Exhaust: NISMO header, O2 sensor, pan-evac scavenge system, 2" exhaust pipe
Fuel Pump: Nissan mechanical

1025095039_t2ny3-L.jpg
1025091837_QxZR7-M.jpg
1025091299_5agYj-M.jpg
1025091455_L7vJM-M.jpg

The other thing I LOVE about this dime is the custom military style dash! From Chris: "Stock dash layout (with working vents) except: A/F meter in the place of OEM temp gauge, Fiero tach in tach nacelle, custom center instrument pod with clock/timer, permanantly installed G-Tech meter, two channel EGT gauge (one stopped working last week, needs a $40 sensor) Autometer Pro-Comp volts, oil pressure, coolant temp guages (mechanical) bank of six toggle switches, vacuum ports (one manifold, one distributor advance) and dash dimmer knob (not connected) Idiot lights for alt and oil pressure, plus an unwired spare."
1037088510_DtkQA-M.jpg
1037088393_2LTx7-M.jpg


Moar pics to come and a vid once it is here. I can't wait to hear that cam. What-cha guys think? (It is a done deal, but keep you fingers crossed it all goes smooth, especially with the MA RMV!)


I feel very fortunate. Something that is a daily driver, a bit hopped up ta boot, and a ball of clay I can try to work some visual magic on while I drive the hell out of it! Viva Ratsun!

  • Like 4
Link to comment
  • Replies 343
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Congrats!!!

I've vote for the other paint option you haven't come up with yet. :) Skib brought the street fighter to life enough that I personally wouldn't bother doing it again. I wish he would have completed it since it was cool as hell!!....but....even unfinished, it proved it was a cool ass paint scheme.

 

Ooooo.....I know you're way more old school, but I'll bet you've got some TRON ideas floating around you didn't get to use...........hhhmmmm.............I can't even picture that........but, the steam punk you've been touching on....oh ya!!!!!

 

 

 

 

:) ...all that just to be subscribed!! Good luck with the deal!!!!

Link to comment

Oh HELL ya!!! This is going to be cool. Just in case you want me to start hacking some quarters or whatever else and box them up for you. I could do that.wink.gif

 

 

Thanks guys! Jes you rule for that offer and I very well may take you up on that!!! I've toyed with the idea of CF or fiberglass fenders up front. But reality is I need to recoup the funds for a while before I invest in that. But I have a cousin and a bro-in law that both work on classics as part of their living. So welding on some new sheetmetal could happen!

 

I love the beater look and imagine this will stay ratty but with style!

 

I could always go streetfighter, but skib did such a great job at it I might explore a few other options first! Photoshop is my friend!

Link to comment

Scott couldn't have a more decent 510 for the price. This one can be driven anywhere with full faith that nothing unexpected will happen.

 

Chris is a good buddy of mine so I can fill in a little history on the car. Chris took a minimalistic approach when he built this car. He named it "Chapman" after Colin Chapman of Lotus fame. The car was stripped of most everything that wasn't essential. The heater was pulled, the carpet and headliner yanked. Even the back seat was removed. The only items left in the car were the bare minimum needed to get down the road in the state of Maine using antique plates. Chris's goal was to make the lightest, all steel 510 4 dr he could with the bare minimum of components to make it street legal. In all honesty I'm surprised he didn't remove the wipers and Rain-X the windshield.

 

I'm saddened to see Chris's "Chapman" move on to a new owner, but at the same time I'm excited as Hell that it is going to the caring hands of someone like Fisch.

Link to comment

Thanks Dave and David! I feel the same way! But it feels good to get the east coast blessing on the passing of the torch! And I think we can all agree it is nice to keep one on the right coast!

 

I was sure to tell Chris I am well aware and appreciative of the deal I am getting here and that his hard work on this rig blows me away and is something it would take me years to accomplish, if ever!

 

It feels like a match made in heaven. Like the song says, "You've got the brawns, I've got the brains, lets make lots of money." Except in our case, "You've got the mad mechanic and fab skills (left brain), I have some artistic sensibilities (right brain), lets make on hell of a kool lookin' and running dime."

 

Love hearing the history and intent of the Build Dave!

 

I am lookin forward to showing Chris the '59 when he drops off 'Chapman'! (Too bad I can't afford to send it back with him for the same treatment he gave the 510! But the nice thing is, now that I will have a daily, streetable 510, I have less pressure on the '59 (and 521 for that matter)!)

 

More pics from Chris (These are all repeats from the FS thread, but I'd like them in one place!) :

 

1025092423_fRSTp-M.jpg

 

1025092476_hT7Jw-M.jpg

 

1025092452_e2W2d-M.jpg

 

1037087906_mtzMv-M.jpg

 

1037087933_oFD3V-M.jpg

 

1037087555_6mRog-M.jpg

 

1037087121_ycrYM-M.jpg

 

1037087583_LdbzM-M.jpg

 

1037140941_AKwH2-L.jpg

 

1037141065_nFid6-L.jpg

 

1037141077_SPYkR-L.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

F SUSP: Stock 510 LCA/steering all parts good. Maxima struts with vented disc brakes, unknown very stiff springs, 1" (Interpart?) non adjustable anti-sway bar, cheapo replacement shocks. Z 6 spoke 14X6 wheels, 185/60 no-name rubber.

1037089536_RufPk-M.jpg

 

R SUSP: Stock 510 with 3/4 turn cut Roadster Comp springs, 240Z aluminum drum brakes good adjusters, brand new slave cylinders and Nissan OEM shoes. no ebrakes (all parts to re-install included as spares). Unknown shocks. Stock 3.900 rear. All universals good. No anti-sway bar. Z 6 spoke 14X6 wheels, 195/70 no-name rubber.

1037088449_GfYav-M.jpg

 

 

Comes with a fresh rebuilt 5-speed, but what is in it is: DRIVETRAIN: Mongrel 5 speed 1-3 has nice spacing 3-4 is too close (200 RPM difference) .75 OD fifth. Wines a bit in third and fifth, rattles at idle (bearings are good, but the layshaft is shimmed poorly). Pro shortened & balanced driveshaft, EE tranny crossmember. 18# steel flywheel, 225mm OEM clutch. New clutch master. Fresh rebuild 5 speed and Centerforce clutch kit supplied as spares."

1037089810_zvYHG-L.jpg

 

1037086688_iUdFv-L.jpg

 

ENGINE BAY: LZ22, NAPZ22S block, balanced rotating assembly, ARP rod bolts. Worked W53 medium chamber head, port matched intake, Manley stainless valves (oversize intake), unsrouded valves in chambers, pocket porting under valves, pro three angle valve job, DAMB cam, internal spraybar, 9.7:1 compression. ARP head studs. Adjustable cam timing gear. Recurved EI dizzy with custom ball bearing shaft. Stock Nissan EI coil, 46mm Z-Therapy ball bearing shafted SU's custom profiled needles on port matched SU manifold. Custom modified 240Z airbox (with OEM airhorns) that takes OEM 240Z filter. NISMO longtube header with three bolt flange, bolt on header glaspack, 2" pipe to 40 series Flowmaster. Mechanical fan, Fiero radiator with 510 shroud, OEM deflector plate under radiator. Freshly rebuilt IR alternator. Optima redtop battery. Syntheric oil its entire life.

1025094571_gQ4Px-M.jpg

 

1025091145_JDN9n-M.jpg

 

1025091141_S69zd-M.jpg

 

Flowmaster series 40 muffler

1025095603_yAKNr-L.jpg

 

Taken during head refresh... Port matched intake ports (matched to SU intake)

1025091287_kP3FN-L.jpg

 

Manley stainless valves

1025091344_h7Enr-L.jpg

Link to comment

More Spares SPARES: Fresh rebuild L series 5 speed, used Centerforce pressure plate, good used clutch disc, Bilstein rear shocks, all the parts for re-installing the heater, e-brake & WW, starter, EI dizzy & spare matchbox / pickup, pair of nice Nissan seats (from a Pulsar I think) various interior trim bits, the headliner rods, spare new aircleaner element, two Z 14X6 six spoke rims.:

 

Interior trim parts, headliner rods (marked for position)

1037089941_hNmsZ-L.jpg

 

All parts to re-install heater.

1037089982_ECKQx-L.jpg

 

Not that I think I will need it (Unless I remount heater controls in some interesting way), but all parts to install stock dash pod.

1037090209_ygFW2-L.jpg

 

Bilstein shocks from BMW 318, they should fit the rear.

1037090504_6EUno-L.jpg

 

Washer Bottle, starter, EI dizzy, EI matchbox, belt, air filter. EGT sensor part number.

1037090518_6EagQ-L.jpg

 

Two extra 14X8 six spoke Z rims.

1037086730_Tweet-L.jpg

 

Nissan seats can't remember the donor vehicle.

1037087160_9Nfsy-L.jpg

Link to comment

Cool fishman!!!

 

HAHA All I can think is when I daily drive 510's how many come out of the wood work. People will draw you maps to where they know of one sitting, some people even come up and say they have one in there back yard they want to sell. Good thing you have a big yard!!!

 

O and lacquer thinner with scotch bright works on rattle can paint. The biggest problem you have if it truly is original paint underneath is factory paint is really really thin, be careful!

Link to comment

i was going to say the same thing that ice said. I would experiment with Lacquer thinner and 3M pads. I go to the janitorial supply and buy floor buffer pads, cut them up into different shapes with sheet metal shears. They come in different grits and are way cheaper than buying the little thin scrubber pads from the hardware or paint store.

 

It really depends what kind of rattle can paint too. Some kinds of spray paint don't like to dissolve. I'm always applying different kinds of finishes and keep a variety of solvents in my shop. Sometimes straight Meythel Ethel Keytone will cut something, other times I use Xylene or Toluene. Toluene is that sweet smelling stuff that is in model airplane cement. It cuts stuff that Xylene doesn't. Sometimes a synthetic reducer will work, but that is a crap shoot as different paint manufacturers have a wide variety of different solvents concocted to work on their specific paint formula.

 

I have experimented and made my own nasty stuff mixing Xylene, Toluene and MEK. Depending on what the make up of the rattle can stuff is it could come right off with out dissolving the factory paint. Always work outside and I use the 3M masks with the replaceable charcoal filters. They cost about eighteen or twenty bucks and you can replace the pre-filters for a couple bucks. Keep them sealed in the bag when you are not using them and they will last for a month or more. I also get 100 count boxes of blue Nitrile glove at my automotive paint supplier for ten bucks. Don't confuse blue latex gloves, they are porous. All those solvents go right through your skin and smelling it is as good a drinking it.

 

I think I would invest in a cheap gravity fed cup gun, some good epoxy primer and shoot the whole thing. I use PPG DP but there are cheaper alternatives. I have painted chrome bumpers, steel wheels, bumpers, patio furniture with DP and coated it with satin Rustoleum. That is nearly a nearly bullet proof and highly repairable finish.

 

I think sanding will get you burn through no matter how careful you are and that is a lot of sanding. If I was going to sand it, I would count on applying a primer and primer surfacer.

 

Or not... get some Easy Rider rifle racks and stick them in the back window... reet.

 

Good luck... cool ride.

Link to comment

Thanks Figbuck! Great info. I have the laquer thinner already so that is a plus. I also had a PM suggesting oven cleaner. It is known to work on spraypaint and not effect some factory paints, but strongly suggested I try it on a small place first. As you just mentioned, different paints will react differently!

 

Assuming it is still chrome under the bumpers, they, the grill, the wheels, trim etc should be easy!

 

Now that I have a real compressor, a paint gun is high on the list!

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.