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My Swiss 1972 S30 240Z rebuild project


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#641 JDMjunkies.ch

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Posted 27 January 2018 - 05:02 AM

I got a request for a 240Z Rear window for sale, so i thought it might be a good reason to get my small power supply and Multimeter out and check them.
P1190564-Kopie.jpg

Unfortunately i didn't even need my tools. It was already clear by visually checking them that both window defrosters are toast, even if the glass was OK on both. The resistive threads have oxidated and vanished in large areas:
P1190565-Kopie.jpg

It even seems like one of them had some kind of burn at one point:
P1190566-Kopie.jpg

You can't really see it bot some of the threads are almost gone totally and there's only some leftovers from the original glue. Really wonder how that could happen. but it seems to be a common problem.
P1190568-Kopie.jpg

One of them even had one of the bigger threads loose. I know it's all repairable with stock-on thread wires, but not sure yet how nice i can do it and if it's worth the effort. Either i need a new glass or have it repaired by a pro.
P1190569-Kopie.jpg

Strange enough i figoured out i have both a vertical and a horizontal wired hatch glass. even if both my cars were built in late 1971. so either they were used longer than mentioned everywere, or it has ben swapped at one point in the past. strange enough the one with the vertical lines (the earlier version)is in way better condition with only one small area damaged and the rest still quite solid...
P1190570-Kopie.jpg


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#642 datsunfreak

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Posted 27 January 2018 - 12:45 PM

You can't really see it bot some of the threads are almost gone totally and there's only some leftovers from the original glue. Really wonder how that could happen. but it seems to be a common problem.

 

One of them even had one of the bigger threads loose. I know it's all repairable with stock-on thread wires, but not sure yet how nice i can do it and if it's worth the effort.

 

 

A question I've been wondering for awhile, and keep forgetting to check when I'm next to my Z, does it look like you could just remove all the lines with a razor blade and some steel wool? 


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#643 MikeRL411

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Posted 27 January 2018 - 02:39 PM

A question I've been wondering for awhile, and keep forgetting to check when I'm next to my Z, does it look like you could just remove all the lines with a razor blade and some steel wool? 

 

 

There once was a repair kit for defroster wires.  It was basically a buffer to clean the surviving ends at the gap, tape that you laid on top of the gap and peeled the center off over where the wires are supposed to be, high gold content "lacquer" that you painted into the tape gap and let cure.  Top coating clear lacquer to keep the repair from flaking off or being rubbed off. As I recall the kit even had some tab type connectors to replace broken harness plug ins.  Check RockAuto or one of the auto parts catalogs, it may still be on the market.



#644 datsunfreak

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Posted 27 January 2018 - 07:47 PM

There once was a repair kit for defroster wires.  It was basically a buffer to clean the surviving ends at the gap, tape that you laid on top of the gap and peeled the center off over where the wires are supposed to be, high gold content "lacquer" that you painted into the tape gap and let cure.  Top coating clear lacquer to keep the repair from flaking off or being rubbed off. As I recall the kit even had some tab type connectors to replace broken harness plug ins.  Check RockAuto or one of the auto parts catalogs, it may still be on the market.

 

I don't want to fix it. I want to remove it.   ^_^


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#645 JDMjunkies.ch

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 04:48 AM

A question I've been wondering for awhile, and keep forgetting to check when I'm next to my Z, does it look like you could just remove all the lines with a razor blade and some steel wool? 

Yes, unlike the modern cars it's not molded into the glass, but just glued onto the surface. that's why they dissapear and have heavy corrosion...
 

There once was a repair kit for defroster wires.  It was basically a buffer to clean the surviving ends at the gap, tape that you laid on top of the gap and peeled the center off over where the wires are supposed to be, high gold content "lacquer" that you painted into the tape gap and let cure.  Top coating clear lacquer to keep the repair from flaking off or being rubbed off. As I recall the kit even had some tab type connectors to replace broken harness plug ins.  Check RockAuto or one of the auto parts catalogs, it may still be on the market.

There still are many repair kits available. some just to replace a short missing parts, some of them to complete the whole threads.
You can basically buy the whole threads as some kind of sticker (with glue applied to it and stuck to a wax-type paper). but i doubt i would manage to replace the complete threads straight and nice like it was from factory...


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#646 datsunfreak

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Posted 28 January 2018 - 02:37 PM

Yes, unlike the modern cars it's not molded into the glass, but just glued onto the surface. that's why they dissapear and have heavy corrosion...

 

Thanks.  :thumbup:


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#647 JDMjunkies.ch

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Posted 31 January 2018 - 09:25 AM

Sometimes you find the coolest things when you don't even search for them. I always thought the "euro" front lip / chin spoiler was cool but it's somehow rare these days to find one and i thought i go the route with the xenon front bumper. However when i was searching for some other parts i accidently stumbled upon a pretty rough looking but still salvageable OEM front spoiler lip. I contacted a few people to confirm it's the real deal and then made the payment. few days later and i could pick it up at the postal office today:
P1190573-Kopie.jpg

One of the mounting brackets is missing (broken off) and another one seems to have been replaced with a custom made piece over the years. but otherwise it's in quite good shape, as long as the old paint gets removed.
P1190574-Kopie.jpg

It's made from Urethane rubber so pretty soft and you can bend it like you want :)
P1190575-Kopie.jpg


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#648 240zness

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Posted 31 January 2018 - 07:06 PM

I removed tint from my rear glass.

Took off some of my defroster circuit, tried to be careful. Not even sure what kind of shape it was in.

#649 JDMjunkies.ch

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 07:00 AM

This is another little project that has been under work for a while and is finally completed :)
A while ago i wanted to re-assemble the transmission crossmember with the new Energy suspension polyurethane bushings. They're stated to fit all 240Z years on their website:
energybushings-Kopie.jpg
 

However, when i tried to install it, it didn't fit at all... The metal tube was too long to fit inside the outer mounting bracket and had a wrong diameter, the bushings had a completely wrong shape too and didn't fit anywhere....
DSC_1797-Kopie.jpg

It was only then i figoured out there are at least three different types of transmission crossmembers and they do not fit the type i got i got:
JDM-Parts-cataloge-rear-mounts-Kopie.jpg
 

I tried to find a supplier, but they weren't available. But when i asked Jakub Nurzaj from DPAN Europe he immediately told me that he could make a set for me... So i took some measures and we double checked a few things, before the first series went into production.
DSC_1845-Kopie.jpg
 

Yesterday i was finally able to pick them up at the postal office and the first look was promising.
P1190584-Kopie.jpg

 

Here's a comparison between energy bushings (left) and Jakub's bushings (right) the difference is small but i can assure you the ones to the left don't fit at all...
P1190591-Kopie.jpg

 

So today i was finally able to install them (use some bushing grease!)
P1190592-Kopie.jpg

 

Fitment is spot on and tight. perfect!
I cannot thank Jakub enough for the work he put into this and i'm happy i could support him. The bushings are now available from Jakub Nurzaj from the DPAN Europe facebook page. Contact him if you need these.

Here's how the crossmember looked before restauration:
P1050766-Kopie.jpg

And here's the completed, freshly powdercoated transmission crossmember with freshly zinc plated bolts and the NISMO / Kameari Transmission mount. Looking cood. Another Puzzle-piece complete. Thanks again to Jakub for the awesome work!
P1190596-Kopie.jpg


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#650 JDMjunkies.ch

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Posted 06 February 2018 - 08:27 AM

A while ago i discovered some NOS parts on a german Sales ad website and contact the seller. few days later i got some NOS parts in my mailbox :)
A 5-speed transmission clutch fork incl the retainer spring:
P1190588-Kopie.jpg

two drum-brake slave cylinders (keen-eyed readers might note that i got two left-sided items)
P1190590-Kopie.jpg

And a set of drum-brake hardware:
P1190586-Kopie.jpg

More parts are on the way from japan currenty. and while waiting, i decided to strip the various layers of old paint from the Euro-chin spoiler with the simple use of some pressurized air and a spatula. before...
P1190577-Kopie.jpg

at least five layers of different primers and paint:
P1190578-Kopie.jpg

and here's the result. yeah, still two layers to go, but this one is tuff. even the paint stripper didn't work on this. wonder what it is.. probably have to sand it down by hand.. no hurry though, at least i don't have old paint peeling off from it and messing the storage space now anymore...
P1190579-Kopie.jpg

Oh, and almost forgot i had all the parts for the doglegs ready since a while but never assembled them...
P1190600-Kopie.jpg

So did that today, freshly powdercoated doglegs, zinc plated hardware and new Polyurethane bushings. next to a pair of old unrestored doglegs :)
P1190603-Kopie.jpg


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#651 Dat510z

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Posted 07 February 2018 - 09:11 AM

Great Thread, one of my favorite to follow.  

 

I noticed you show urethane bushing on both front and rear positions of the T/C rods.  

 

At least here in the States, myself and others have experienced bending and breakage of the T/C rods, when using urethane bushings in both the tension and compression positions.  ( In my case on a 510.)  Dual urethane bushings make the joint so stiff it forces energy into the TC rod, causing to bend.

 

In my case replacing the Rear bushing (rear in relation to the car) with a factory Rubber bushings allowed the joint to flex enough without bending the rod, while still gaining the advantage of more stable wheel positioning.  Other solutions I've seen has been drill holes radially in to the compressing bushing to allow more compression of the bushing.  

 

Given the 240Z has rear facing TC rods, I would think you would want the Front Bushing to be urethane and the Tension Bushing (rear) to be Rubber, (Opposite the 510) 

 

Just thought I'd pass the info along.  I'd hate to see this beautiful Z you are building, damaged for any reason.



#652 JDMjunkies.ch

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Posted 08 February 2018 - 09:07 AM

thanks for the input, got the same feedback in another forum as well. will definitely think about it and most probably go for the 50/50 setup...
So the compression bushing would be the front one in the Z, right? (the t/c rods facing rearwards)


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#653 Dat510z

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Posted 09 February 2018 - 09:21 AM

Yes, on the Z the urethane bushing would be in the "front" position, to limit the rear-ward movement of the wheel under heavy braking and/or suspension movement.  

 

There's also "old school" T/C Kit, which used a Delrin and Aluminum cup type "ball pivot" design to replace the "Front Position" Bushings.  I still use that style on some of my cars.  Experimental Engineering reproduced them using a UHMWPE for the Ball instead of the Delrin (which was more susceptible to degradation).  Carter B. used to be the distributor for Experimental Engineering. 

 

175x131-images-datsunTCa.jpg



#654 JDMjunkies.ch

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Posted 12 February 2018 - 10:53 AM

Hmm in this thread, someone says to use the poly front and the rubber rear:

http://www.classiczc...#comment-541855

Not sure yet which is the way to go...
Question is if the rod breaks due to compression or due to the movement / angle...


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#655 Dat510z

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Posted 13 February 2018 - 12:38 PM

In my care, it was due to bending of the T/C rod.  Having urethane bushings on both sides significantly reduces the T/C rod's ability to move up and down with the suspension.  My T/C rod broke at right at the point where the shaft steps down to go through the bushings, due to bending.  There's a fairly sharp corner there.  When I machined my T/C rods to add caster, by moving the shoulder back a few mm, I added a better chamfer there.  

 

Yes, Urethane Bushing in the front position (as in relation to the front of the car) and OEM rubber in the rear.  This way the urethane bushing will reduce the rearward motion of the wheel, and the rubber bushing will still allow the T/C rod to move up and down.



#656 JDMjunkies.ch

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Posted 19 February 2018 - 11:41 AM

In my care, it was due to bending of the T/C rod.  Having urethane bushings on both sides significantly reduces the T/C rod's ability to move up and down with the suspension.  My T/C rod broke at right at the point where the shaft steps down to go through the bushings, due to bending.  There's a fairly sharp corner there.  When I machined my T/C rods to add caster, by moving the shoulder back a few mm, I added a better chamfer there.  

 

Yes, Urethane Bushing in the front position (as in relation to the front of the car) and OEM rubber in the rear.  This way the urethane bushing will reduce the rearward motion of the wheel, and the rubber bushing will still allow the T/C rod to move up and down.

Ah this makes sense. Also some people mentioned that the rod will mostly brake around the threads at the rear if it can't move enough within the polybushes. still a bit confused.
Nevertheless, i try to order a set of OEM rubber bushings and try to figure it out :) Thanks for all your inputs and advice guys, really appreciate!


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#657 JDMjunkies.ch

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Posted 21 February 2018 - 09:58 AM

Time for a little more knowledge today default_smile.png After i posted pictures from my T/C rod bushings in various forum-threads, people replied that i should swap to rubber in the back. After discussing a few topics i figoured out that original rubber bushings are still available new from Nissan and ordered a set, which i was able to pick up today:
P1190618-Kopie.jpg

 

The problem: According to many people, the T/C rod tends to brake at the yellow area, when PU-bushings are used both in front and rear of the Frame-rail mount. This due to much counterstrength whith the hard PU-bushings.
P1190619-Kopie.jpg

 

For sciences' sake i decided to compare both setups with an original NOS 240Z frame rail i have in my shop.
Top: Front PU / rear Rubber
Bottom: Front PU / rear PU
P1190621-Kopie.jpg

 

1st: Both PU. Fits perfect, but it's very stiff, both compression and angle-movement wise.
P1190622-Kopie.jpg

 

Second: Front PU / rear rubber.
You still have the advantage of PU-front (less rearwards movement during compression, red arrow), while having more freedom of angle-movement (yellow arrow) and therefore minimized the chance that the T/C rod will brake.
P1190627-Kopie.jpg
 

So thanks all for the inputs and advice and i'll definitely stick with the PU / Rubber combination for best performance and with least failure rate :)


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