My Swiss 1972 S30 240Z rebuild project
Posted 11 November 2017 - 02:09 AM
This week has been the most busy one car-wise in a while Well. I guess that's good?!
Thist itme i've cleaned the ignition switches again thoroughly and assembled them back. Tried to keep the original patina but clean it. And made sure all the contacts are fine.
Then installed one of them directly to the previously finnished steering column:
Really fun to start putting completed parts together to even bigger completed parts
Had the covering ring cleaned, since the old paint wasn't nice anymore:
Resprayed it with some rattle-can car-paint in flat black and had it drying under the lamp for a day:
And then put it back to the switch:
And then got a package from Poland. Have to Thank Jakub Nurzaj a lot for his support and digging in some old stock to find me this US-Spec Corner valance with the factory cutout for the american turn signals. Cheers mate for the great service!
Also thanks for the free datsun europe stickers!
So now i have another shipment ready to get rust and paint removed at the alcohol dipping company. Body-parts are now officially complete. Hope i can push my bodyshop to hurry up a bit with the chassis... Progress is awfully slow at the moment...
Posted 19 November 2017 - 07:46 AM
Since i have all of my body panels together, i wanted to have a look at the last possible "unknown" area.
The front grille. I never had a close look at it and wanted to make sure it's OK. Well it's not (of course ).
Started like this. It seems like there are various versions of the grille around, but it apepars that this is a fulyl original one. the middle finis shorter, which also seems to be original.
Everything is just plugged together and then secured with four long and thin bolts on the back of the horizontal fins:
Onfortunately it's all just made out of cheap and thin sheet metal, so quite prone to bending:
Luckily the most delicate parts (the fins) are ok, and the rest is quite easy to fix or make on my own (i guess). the rest of the parts are just riveted together, so i probably give it a try and make my own grill.
Need to think about it and see if i'm able to find the horizontal U-shaped fins in the correct size.. guess i will send the available parts for rust and paint-stripping and then see what i can do seems to be a fun DIY project
- skyblue likes this
Posted 23 November 2017 - 10:30 AM
So yesterday i got the box with parts back from the plating company. Everything got cleaned, zinc plated and yellow passivated. The colour is slightly different then last time (more redish). Probably due to the changed regulations for the mix of chemicals used for this procedure.
Still quite happy with the result. Took me a while to sort through all the parts, but mostly figoured it out by now
Started with the re-assembly of some parts. From this...
To this (Hose brackets)
To this (hood closing mechanism..)
This (the other part of the hood closing mechanism... (x2)
And then finally got all the parts ready to re-assemble the shifter with the new bushings and some bushing grease. Before...
And because fun, i decided to test-fit the Kameari Z-Shift knob as well. Thiss will be a perfect match once it's in the car
Still have some parts to sort through and a lot to assemble. but need some pre-work on some parts first...
Posted 13 December 2017 - 08:41 AM
I've been super busy with dozens of small 240Z projects, but unfortunately it's two steps forward and one back at the moment so i haven't really completed anything noteworthy to post here. Nevertheless i left some parts at the paint-stripping company today and should be able to pick them up early next year. And then suddenly i got a picture from my Panelbeater with a small update: The outer radius on the Tabco rear quarter panel has been corrected to give it the factory-like sharp edges (the tabco is a bit too soft) and the welds have been cleaned. Hope to have more updates soon. really working on a few ends at the moment
Posted 20 December 2017 - 10:42 AM
Today i was finally able to complete a little project on which i've been working over the past few weeks. I completely reworked the Inspection Lamp.
Remember a few weeks ago when i posted this pic? This is how it all started. Rusty, Painted over a few times, and in bad shape. didn't even work:
Of course started to disassembly everything first
Then had the housing tubmlered to remove old paint, dirt and rust (picture has other parts included as well, which don't belong to the inspection lamp):
And got it zinc-replated and yellow passivated to get back the origina look. Then started to source the missing parts.
Even if i'm in the business i failed to find an original green twin-wire with the original thickness. but since the original wire was still in good shape i decided to just clean and keep it.
The bulb was a bit of a headscratcher too. but after i figured out the Keyword was "BA9s" (9mm bajonett-socket with single base connector) it was easy to find a fitting bulb, 12V, 8W as the manual states. Nowadays you even could replace it with a lot of less-power consuming LED bulbs, but i decided to keep it oldschool in this case
The switch was the most tricky part. the original was toasted (see left). It could be saved and restored but then you still have a completely brittly 40 year old piece of plastic in an outdated electronic design, so i decided to replace it with a newer style switch. The first generation of inspection lamps had a metal switch too, so it's not a completey wrong look.
The switch needs a 12mm thread, but must be small enough to fit inside the housing (most 12mm threaded switches are too big) and it should have the little notch in the thread to secure it properly in correct position. After trying various options i figoured out this one would fit perfectly (Available at farnell)
While the original one is an ON-OFF switch, this one is an ON-ON switch, but if you remove one of the outer pins you have an ON-OFF function again:
First the little nipple has to minimized by 0.5mm or so to fit the slightly smaller notch in the new switch:
Then prepared all the cables. Cleaned them first with a rough side of a dish cleaning sponge, cut off the ends, removed insulation ca 1mm at each end with a special tool and then pre-soldered the ends to make it easier to solder it later.
It probably helps if you have a full high-end soldering workstation like i have at my office and 20+ years of daily soldering routine skills
All parts ready? Here we go. The fun part begins - assembly (got a new replica lens and rubber insulator from ebay, plus additionally a piece of black heat-shrinking tube and some red electronic wrapping tape).
First i installed a new rubber insulator grommet on the bottom of the back housing. the original one was falling apart by just looking at it. New ones can be found easy in any electronis speciality shop.
The removed the old wire-end from the connecting plate and cleaned it.
resoldered the new wire-end to it and cleaned it with flux remover (removes flux from the soldering, which may decrease the electric connectivity! see bottle in the back)
Soldered the other wire back to the hook and attached some black heat-shrinking tube like it was in the factory setup:
Next was soldering the wires to the switch and protect the solderings with some black heat-shrinking tube:
Also added the red electrical tape as it was in my factory setup (it goes inside where the clamp is to protect wires):
Soldered the wire back to the little Clamp
And installed the clamp back to the bottom and secured the cables inside with it. Done
Apply 12V DC to it (ground to the housing, plus to the red wire, switch on - YAY!
assembled it to gether and still everything works as it should:
So here's the result. Quite the difference when compared to the first pictures, which was the same item!
Spent quite a few hours sourcing parts and getting everything cleaned and so on, but honestly it was totally worth the work
Posted 23 December 2017 - 03:53 AM
Christmas comes one day early this year After a four-week long wait, a little Box from Japan finally arrived here with some Parts for my MK63 brakes:
1) Project u MK63 Solid disk type NS street brake pads:
2) NOS Nissan Sumitomo MK63 Brake pistons
I think i have everything ready now for assembling the Brakes over the holidays
Posted 30 December 2017 - 07:03 AM
Last post of the year. Nothing huge, but wanted to share the progress.
This week i visited the bodyshop to pick up some unused parts and had a look at t he latest work: The rear quarter panel is in, as is the inner arch. The outer arch has ben reshaped to fit the original bodylines. The repair panels have a different "softer" shape, compared to the original lines. but only visible if you know the details.
Currently he's reworking the think soft "edge" (where the black line is). Most of owners probably haven't even noticed there's an edge. but my bodyshop guy is a perfectionist. that's why it takes a lot of time. anyhow. The body is getting a concours level restauration Also the tank filler "pocket" has been removed to get a little rust treatment, and to have better access to the inside of the rear quarters.
And at home i've been puzzling together various parts laying around. Like this Differential strap mounts:
Now freshly assembled with fresh zinc plated bolts and tubes and powdercoated base mounts. Perfect.
Posted 06 January 2018 - 06:26 AM
Woohow! Another one of these little long-term projects finally completed.
I failed several attempts to paint the ignition-switch surrounding ring and the Turn signal switch stalk by myself. The paint would be so easy to scratch off (with fingernails) afterwards that it would immetiately look terrible once you touch it with anything hard.
So after i realized i suck at painting, i decided to hand it over to René, the paint wizard at Autolackprofis which i know from the Honda-scene back in the days and is one of the most recognized paintshops in (and outside) switzerland. He's also in charge of painting the car once it's ready (if he isn't retired by then ) The result is stunning. We decided to go for an industrial grade paint which is stronger and more scratch resistant compared to normal car paint. Perfect
So first in installed the painted ignition switch surrounding ring back to the switch:
Then started to re-assemble the turn signal switch (See previous steps here)
First installed the wire back completely with the switch contacts and the plastic spacer:
Added dielectric grease to all the contacts to make sure they will operate smoothly and contact well for a long time:
At the bottom end in added the little contact back to the spring and added dielectric grease as well.
Added the switch plastic housing and the inside mechanism back to the stalk and measured. Unpressed: Infinite Ohms (no connection)
Switch pressed: Zero Ohms (Short). That's what the switch does. if you press it it will short the 12V applied to it to the chassis-ground. So it works perfectly (Always check before doing next steps, you will hate yourself for not doing so if you figure out once it's installed)
Install the stalk back to the switch assembly. Since i wasn't able to find a similar bolt used in the the original assembly, i just took a zinc plated nail in the same dimensions, cut it off and made it fit
After that it's time to get the wires back together. Don't forget to add the heat shrinking tube before you solder...
Soldered wires back together and heat shrinking tube is shrunk to the original shape:
and definitely much cleaner compared to the original dusty switch, which was completely covered in old dirty grease. I'm super happy to have completed another little project that took my quite some time
- datsunfreak likes this
Posted 12 January 2018 - 10:42 AM
Nothing big today, just picked up a bunch of parts at the paint stripping company. The green colour is wash-primer to protect it from rust.
The grille parts. have to straighten a few things, waiting for two small vertical parts to be fabricated and then it will be ready to get assembled back together:
Posted 24 January 2018 - 08:46 AM
I'll write a huge Post about the MK63 brakes soon (just waiting for some details), but one thing i can tell already is that they're usually installed without the backing plate. The brakes fit perfectly with the OEM Brakes (see below):
This is the result. Honestly i was hoping for a bit tighter fitment, but since you won't see it once the disk is installed it doesn't matter anyway. just my OCD calling here
Next i will have it sandblasted and powdercoated.
Posted 25 January 2018 - 10:47 AM
One common rusty area of most S30 Z's are the floors. The only supplier of floor pans i know is from zeddfindings (http://www.datsunzparts.com/ ). The Problem is. they look good at first sight, but upon closer inspection they don't fit really well.
The main Problem beeing the longitudial Bump in the the middle which should be above the frame-rail isn't aligned proper. So basicall you have to cut it up and re-do most of the work. That's what the bodyshop told me when i brought them my floorpans for repair. And 240Z restorers told me the same. so it wasn't just my part which was bad.
So a while ago i looked for another solution and came a cross datsun Club Hungary. They restore a few cars a year and make their own floorpans. while not officially for sale in a shop or so, they offered me one set when i asked them. Not cheap, but worth the Money. and they appear to be mostly hand-made too. The reason i trusted them to make good Quality stuff is mainly because they make their floorpans for their own concours-Level restaurations useage and not just for selling them to People with no clue...
last but most important: The longitudial "dent" is perfectly aligned with the Frame rail and no additional cutting-up and welding needed aside from the usual fitment work...
I really hope with the increasing Prices of the Z that manufacturers start to build Quality sheet metal stuff. the parts available currently are sadly of terrible fitment and Quality...
- datsunfreak likes this