Sealiks Shit

[banzai510(hainz)]

shouldnt the motor be more at a angle where the carb is horz.?

[Sealik]

shouldnt the motor be more at a angle where the carb is horz.?

 

Yes.....but I'm limited on the lean until I grab some different MMs and address the oil pan

Also....the more I lean it....the more I have to 'cut out' the cab floor.

The carb will sit more level...but the engine won't lean as much as the L20B....I think :)

[Sealik]

Grabbed some MMs from a 75 620.....only used the passenger side.

Unless I totally modify the oil pan....this is the best I could sit the engine.

Have about 1/8 inch between pan and front diff....the passenger side half shaft boot is just rubbing on the pan, but that's an easy fix after the fact. There is now about 1/2 inch between the air cleaner/valve cover and hood.... :thumbup:

 

Before

 

 

After

 

 

The 620 PS MM was shimmed at the bottom...and the 720 drivers side was shimmed at the top.

One problem.....the oil filter doesn't fit now... :blink: .top of MM is in the way. Have to drop the insulator....or cut the upper edge off.

Also.... the tail of the trannie is now out of alignment with the transfer case because of the lean...excellent :rolleyes:

[izzo]

Maybe customize that intake a bit. Shave it down at an angle on the carb plate so its at an angle, weld the holes shut and re-drill at an angle to match it. Take a little off at the head side too. If you got a spare one around, could test out on that??

 

Or find an 80 oil pan?? What year of truck is this

[Sealik]

Maybe customize that intake a bit. Shave it down at an angle on the carb plate so its at an angle, weld the holes shut and re-drill at an angle to match it. Take a little off at the head side too. If you got a spare one around, could test out on that??

 

Or find an 80 oil pan?? What year of truck is this

 

 

Ya.....the carb isn't sitting too bad now...but....could go a little more though.

Other years of 720 4x4 pans won't work because of the diff locale.

The cats ass would be a wedged adapter plate that fit between the IM and head...to bring the carb up for this swap.

Which in turn would make the IM runners more of a direct flow to the head....I think... :blink: ... :D

It's an 84....

[datzenmike]

The carb isn't bad enough to not work.

 

isso the '80 720 had the front diff on the passenger side, all other 720 are on the driver's side. I have an L20B 4x4 pan and it wont even fit in there . (shows you're thinking though) :P

 

Doug drill new holes in the MM?

 

 

Get a pry bar in that gap and bender in.

 

[izzo]

Mike, thread was to long for me to go thru and re-read lol... Wasn't sure on years he was using, i do know the difference on the 80 (i sold that yellow one to MicroMachinery) Hell i even had a sealed in package 1980 720 4x4 FSM manual for it :cool:

[Sealik]

The carb isn't bad enough to not work.

 

 

 

Get a pry bar in that gap and bender in.

 

 

 

 

That gap isn't really the problem....its the other....slightly to the left where the half shaft comes in.

If I bring the passenger side up to clear the diff......hood issues.....and carb level

Here's the shimmed Z24 mount.

 

 

And the other side....re-drilled and shimmed the stock 620 MM about 1 inch lower

 

Problem is....once you start fucking with 1 side...other shit rears its head :)

Engine is basically where it is..shall fine tune :D ..gonna go talk to a buddy tomorrow and see if he can do anything with the intake.

Also... likely replace the Z bell with an L

[merlin]

Go with a remote mount oil filter... It will solve your pass side mm issue and you might be able to go moar lower and left.

[Sealik]

Engine shall be pulled and oil pan 'addressed'....trannie will be replaced with an (L) 80 720 2WD....thanks Merlin!

 

 

Front propeller shafts between the 81 and 85 4x4 vary....so one needs the appropriate transfer case companion flange to match.

Didn't know....but there is also about a 3/8 inch difference between the 81 and 82 shafts.....the 83+ is obvious, larger and longer because of the shorter 26 inch trannie

 

Top one (black) was removed from the 2WD....has a longer sleeve on it...?????....compared to the other 4x4 ones, those came from the same length,... 31 inch trannies

Hmmmmmm.

 

 

 

Would assume I would have to use the top one....combined with 1 of the lowers. Not sure of the length yet.

Buy a couple of new universal joints for that swap

 

[Sealik]

Pulled the engine and trannie out to 'fix' the oil pan clearance....prior to the pull I marked the pan for reference.

While it was out, I changed the trannie to the 31 inch (L) long tail.

Drop it back in.....hmmmmmm...MMs are not even close and the pan hits in another position.....excellent :rolleyes:

Pull the engine/tr forward as much as possible to work the pan.....better.....but after adjusting the MMs again, the passenger side halfshaft still rubs a bit...... :blink:

Good enough for now.....I'll pull the shaft and 'work' that area later, will be in 2WD anyways till the engine is broken in.

Engine is basically level, have about 1/4 between valve cover and hood and an 1/8 between pan and diff.

Grinded part of the MM for the oil filter to clear.

Looks like the front of the engine is sitting about 3/4 inch towards the passenger side....oh well...can't go any more to the drivers side without raising the engine...or....making it a 2WD.... :o ...:D

 

[datzenmike]

What a friggin pain. :angry: You could always shim the body mounts for more hood clearance. At least that is straight wrenching. Or (shudder) pull motor and hammer the fuck out of the pan for better clearance. Hood scoops are so lame.

[Sealik]

What a friggin pain. :angry: You could always shim the body mounts for more hood clearance. At least that is straight wrenching. Or (shudder) pull motor and hammer the fuck out of the pan for better clearance. Hood scoops are so lame.

 

 

Ya...it sucked.

Problem is...was...2 spots on the pan that had to be 'flattened' are right on the corners, much rigid.

The other 1 is right above the halfshaft.....but there is a thin vertical metal plate that is welded to the inside of the pan....so I was rather hesitant on whacking it too much.

Best results would be to pull pan....cut..configure.....re-weld.

Or.....older pan and diff....but that creates other issues.

I did....temporarily....consider a hood scoop... ;)....or remove the diff....but nay.... :D

Still wasn't sure which propeller shaft to use....and why the difference between the 2WD and 4WD.

Only thing I can think of is that the 2WD has no front propeller shaft...just a longer drive shaft, which could reflect on the variances...?

No idea.

 

I installed the 81 shaft and companion flange....but....was thinking....I could put the 2WD sleeve yoke (top in pic) on the 81 4x4 shaft...might have room to install it.

81...lower shaft in pic.

 

[datzenmike]

Doug some of the earlier 4x4s used the same size U joints as the 2wd. In '82/'83??? they started using larger diameter d/s and yokes. I have an '80 T case and had to swap the later yokes into it because I had an '83 drive shaft. And get this ... the rear end yoke can't be swapped. It's splined onto the pinion shaft and yup, the spline is different. I ended up spending 4 hrs cutting the 4x4 flange off the yoke and welding it to the front of the 2wd yoke. It's fucked up I know but has taken me to Ontario several times.

[Sealik]

Doug some of the earlier 4x4s used the same size U joints as the 2wd. In '82/'83??? they started using larger diameter d/s and yokes. I have an '80 T case and had to swap the later yokes into it because I had an '83 drive shaft. And get this ... the rear end yoke can't be swapped. It's splined onto the pinion shaft and yup, the spline is different. I ended up spending 4 hrs cutting the 4x4 flange off the yoke and welding it to the front of the 2wd yoke. It's fucked up I know but has taken me to Ontario several times.

 

Ya... the u-joints are the same size on the pre 83+ 2 and 4WD....just wondering why so much meat on the 2WD (right shaft in pic) sleeve was sliding into the back of the trannie....compared to the 4x4.

About 7/8 inch more.

 

 

[Sealik]

Due to the fact of the longer ((31") trannie....the console, shifter and plate that covers the tunnel....had to be replaced.

Wanted some flat black plastic paint for the console....but...no go...just gloss.....oh well.

I'm sure the paint will 'flatten' out in no time.... :D

Mixed and matched some colors....

Most likely throw in 2 more gauges, vacuum and fuel/air, in the opening below oil and amp

 

 

Bench seat had to be removed to install the longer console

[Sealik]

)

Anywho....repainted the rims, installed some more gauges.....Innovate wide band air/fuel ratio gauge and my second vacuum gauge from Prosport.

Looks like I might be returning that one also.....reading 4 lbs, and it's not even hooked up. :blink:

Pulled the carpet, scrubbed some various cleaners in it and then blasted it with my pressure washer....came out rather well.

 

 

 

Have to find another canopy...

 

 

Noticed the 15/16 master cylinder was leaking....repainted the booster and changed to a 7/8, was the 'best' MC I had.

I'm sure the downgrade won't have any considerable affect on my braking.

Was the only 7/8 I had....all the other MCs I have (84/85) are 15/16

 

 

[Sealik]

Got some advice from Byron (510 Realm)... :thumbup: ..shall be drilling 7+ .... 5/16 cooling holes/passages into block

 

 

All the oblong holes...bottom of gasket.

Old L20B HG for reference.

 

..."The problem is that excessive heat builds up around that side of the block – after a few thousand miles, you can actually see scuffing on you new pistons from the heat which is not being dissipated"....

[Sealik]

Which in turn means more a little more HG work.

The sacrificial Z24 HG as comparison

 

[datzenmike]

Got some advice from Byron (510 Realm)... :thumbup: ..shall be drilling 7+ .... 5/16 cooling holes/passages into block

 

 

All the oblong holes...bottom of gasket.

Old L20B HG for reference.

 

..."The problem is that excessive heat builds up around that side of the block – after a few thousand miles, you can actually see scuffing on you new pistons from the heat which is not being dissipated"....

 

I've always wondered about the L vs. Z gaskets too. L heads flow water up and to the driver's side. The thermostat and the coolant down the intake runners is on the left side. The Z flows to the right. Thermostat and 4 intake runners are on the right.

 

 

Also why not 8 holes, number one only has one?

[Sealik]

Ya...I'm wondering on some LZ builds if this (extra heat) could of contributed to the rings not seating properly ...?

[Sealik]

8 holes in the bottom row...1 is already in the block.

Not sure about the upper right one though...2nd down, has a matching hole on the L head.

That hole in the Z24 HG was just a test cut for my laminate trimmer when I had the HG taped to the head.

The 2 holes I also 'drilled' in my (good) HG are...2nd over from bottom right...and large oblong on left

 

[Sealik]

Okay....took a pic of a L20B block.

Was wondering on size of cooling passage (holes) into block...location relative to HG and how many.

All slightly under 1/4 inch

No hole below top right head bolt....can tell area by the rust spot on block deck, L head only has the hole.

 

 

With L gasket

 

Covered the head up, then taped the gasket to it.

Punched hole location

 

Drilled hole a little larger for trimmer

 

Cut with trimmer, works rather well. The rough edges around hole that looks like metal is actually just a soft film...rubs right off.

 

After I cut the first hole I realized how close the holes were to the metal bore ring on the HG.. :o ..but I kept on cutting. :D

 

As you can see....

 

 

Too close....?

Might have to find a different HG if so

 

 

Placed on the LZ23 block

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

what size hole you going to drill???. You just need a small hole just enought to move the water.

 

 

let me know about your oder on Nissanparts .cc. really its the Motorsport parts that are givein you the proplems. I want to get more retainers also but might say fuck it and get the Isky ones.

http://iskycams.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=408&zenid=3f9e39f489b90afef9ec2a13c17b330b

[Sealik]

what size hole you going to drill???. You just need a small hole just enought to move the water.

 

 

let me know about your oder on Nissanparts .cc. really its the Motorsport parts that are givein you the proplems. I want to get more retainers also but might say fuck it and get the Isky ones.

http://iskycams.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=408&zenid=3f9e39f489b90afef9ec2a13c17b330b

 

 

Same size as hole (1/4") already in the block....4th over from bottom right.

Which it's location still doesn't leave much meat on the HG

Could have shifted the rest of the holes away I guess...but it's much easier to follow the water passages in the head, when cutting.

Besides....didn't notice until I had already cut a few holes..... :D