Sealik Posted October 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 sorry don't have a vaccuum tester... took the 521 for one lap of Clearwater today! after i burnt all the crap out of the lines she runs not half bad, maybe getting 40 hp lol!:lol: now that we both have drivers... are we officially the Clearwater Datsun Club :lol: That is rather funny....2 members.... :lol: Clearwater Datsun Club......minutes 1 member in attendance.....1 guest "No show again.... :( ....?" "...Well...?..!...... where the hell is he then....?" "Ahhhh.....still fucking with that truck I guess.....couldn't get a lift". Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Anyways..... dropped my Merlins....chatted for a while. I'm thinking you should donate that LZ22 to my cause...?...eh?.......promise to give it a good home You have to post more..... on all of your shit... :cool: ..impressed Took the truck out....up the hills....no issues with the AFM. Lugged it up some steep hills....no pinging etc. It still slightly pops and hesitates on full throttle from idle......other than that it runs pretty good. Noticed that the dizzy is not positioned the same as my other Z24s.....all are at about 3 degrees BTDC Looks like it could be turned..... about another 1/4 inch CW to match the other engines I have. Which is quite a bit relative to timing Hmmmmm....more queries I think the Z24i (crank angle sensor) dizzy would be more efficient for this app.....but without the 240sx harness.....no can do??? Also.....the oil light came on.....added some more.....now it won't go out. Poop...............Ongoing...... :) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Doug you're running the old 200sx EFI right? but you have the VG throttle body on it, right? The VG were all CAS crank angle sensor so there won't be a vac advance for your dizzy. Right?? :lol: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Doug you're running the old 200sx EFI right? but you have the VG throttle body on it, right? The VG were all CAS crank angle sensor so there won't be a vac advance for your dizzy. Right?? :lol: Yes.....the vacuum from the VG30E TB will still run the advance?....efficiently? We pulled the vacuum line at the dizzy and 'checked' the draw....seemed like it 'sucked' enough.... :P :D Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 There are 2 connections underneath the VG TB......I'll snap a pic on location Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Here is the VG TB Notice the 2 hoses coming out the base....1 is marked white, the other has a yellow dot at the end. I did have my vacuum advance hooked to the yellow......now it's on the white. Shall flip them back and see if there is a difference. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Got an idea.. check for the location of the vacuum advance on the 200sx throttle plate and then look for it on the VG one. EGR is also ported vacuum??? Maybe use it. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Got an idea.. check for the location of the vacuum advance on the 200sx throttle plate and then look for it on the VG one. EGR is also ported vacuum??? Maybe use it. Initially I did compare the 2 TBs....side by side. The 200sx TB has a port that was also marked with a dab of white paint. I think that was for advance....?.... :blink: My EGR is MIA.....pulled and capped. -4 this morning...truck flashed right up.....idled good. But.....the idle would not drop back down after about 5 mins, had to turn in the AIS (screw) all the way to get it to about 700 RPM. I know what the problem is..(I think)....the engine is not getting above 176 degrees ish.....have to change the thermostat. Get the operating temp up to normal......thus shutting down the air reg Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 On another issue...... Anyone know of the symptoms of a NFG pilot bushing? Have a vibration that I haven't been able to locate in a while.... :( I've changed everything.....but last time....I never changed the pilot bushing with the different tranie. I can feel something is not right when I depress the clutch pedal......feel spinning through the pedal...rough...slight vibration. Can feel it even more when I throttle it. Worse when I'm driving it. Have no significant vibration in tranie shifter.....pretty smooth. No clue......but I'm going to pull the tranie and have a look tomorrow. Oh.....it was a new clutch and throw out bearing. It also has the Z22 flywheel on the Z24 I believe....didn't think there was any dif at the time. It will suck......if there is no visual issues with the back end of the motor. I'm hoping for a nasty looking bush.....ing..... :).... :lol: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 Could be worn or could be damaged when sliding the tranny in. There are 3 vacuum ports. One for the EGR, one for purging the charcoal canister and one for vacuum advance.Can't find a diagram of which is which. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 Could be worn or could be damaged when sliding the tranny in. I hope..(if it is)......but I'm also concerned that by leaving it too long.....that it might have started compromising the input shaft....? Fuck.....would be much excellent if you were local.......could be my diagnostic man.... ;) :D Pay is not good....but the 'perks' are much copacetic ......... ;) ..... :lol: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 Could be worn or could be damaged when sliding the tranny in. There are 3 vacuum ports. One for the EGR, one for purging the charcoal canister and one for vacuum advance.Can't find a diagram of which is which. There are (were) 3 ports on the 200sx TB....yes Nothing is 'running' through my canister......just have the 1 from the fuel tank hooked up. The other 2 coming out are hanging loose. Not quite 'sure' if this is correct....but......... :blink: .... :) I have the diagram for the 200sx TB connections somewhere.....so no problemo there VG is slightly different as you have suggested Guess there is no way to adapt the Z24i dizzy into the loop? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 Actually, I have one. The Z24i dizzy is a CAS crank angle sensor, good if running a KA24E ECU to compute the advance, thus ridding you of the vacuum advance. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 Actually, I have one. The Z24i dizzy is a CAS crank angle sensor, good if running a KA24E ECU to compute the advance, thus ridding you of the vacuum advance. This comes complete with wiring and installation instructions for the 200sx EFI? ;) :) Excellent......... :hyper: ....... :) 'Pat' suggests that the only way to eliminate the low RPM hesitation with the 200sx/Z24/Z22 swap..... is to upgrade to the 240sx harness and trimmings. Not sure if this would apply to the L20B? Would be nice if one could utilize the 86+ CAS dizzy in the stock/primitive/1981 harness and ECM.....????? Crap.........more queries... :D Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 Just getting ready to pull the tranie.....so I drained the oil. Hmmmmmmm...found a substantial nugget on the magnet. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 Got the tranie out....pulled the clutch etc. Can't see any anomalies in the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, fork or pilot bushing....other some some slight glazing... :unsure: Input shaft seemed fine....movement wise...compared to the other tranies I have. Figured something was going to be fucked in this area.....? Going to pick.....'Door' #3.....on the right. I think it is a good tranie..... :blink: :D Looks like it has been apart....orange RTV or something...? Will replace the pilot bushing on engine. White grease is used on the fork pivot, input shaft where throw out bearing slides.......what all should I slather? Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 Decided to pull the tranie apart to see WTF....also needed a clutch alignment tool for the truck. :cool: So I'll cut that off later. Thought there would more 'damage'....? Top gear where screw driver is pointing....some of the gear (corners)are MIA This gear closest to the bearing....some rounded corners on that 1 too. Other than that......no idea :blink: Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 Rear end bearings in axle ? axle vibration resonating through ? :unsure: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Rear end bearings in axle ? axle vibration resonating through ? :unsure: Actually....those have been changed also..and more..... :) I could tell something isn't right even at 5MPH I can (could) feel the vibration (spinning) through the clutch pedal......so I assumed it was something to do with the clutch assembly. What all rotates in the tranie at idle.....? I'm thinking it was a bearing (as per pic/ nugget on magnet) in the tranie.....as speed/rpm increases it got worse. Couldn't find anything significant in the tranie......should have another look. Here nor there.....pretty much fucked it up on disassembly ...... :rolleyes: Although.....I will have a 'new' clutch aligning tool out of the mix..... :lol: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 Well....got the tranie in. I 'forgot' how much that sucks.....4x4 and all. Have no more vibration coming from it, that (clutch/at idle) area that is. Obviously something spinning in the tranie....increasing with load/RPM. The irony is that this tranie was pulled out when I got the truck,.......'assuming' the replacement was in better shape. Put a fresh coat of gravel guard on the box and rockers.....winter and all. Not very good having the torsion bars cranked......magnifies any vibration in the truck and bump in the road. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2010 Made a road trip with the truck today....highway miles only. Thought it would do a little better...EFI and all...only got 26 MPG. Other Z24 4x4 truck with same sized tires and Weber got a smidge under 30. My thermostat is partially NFG, so the engine was not always reaching operating temp (175+). This means that the air regulator is still operational......kind of like running a carbed engine that is partially choked I guess...? I'm assuming this contributed to the less MPG.....also...the truck is heavier than my other one.....it's like packing a couple of extra bodies in the 'trunk'...... :D Just kidding....on the bodies of course....... :P .... :) Got the clock in the 'best' position I can without a air/fuel ratio gauge. Seems to run pretty good....but I think it can run better http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5GYm-Z2UdE I have 3 options The third option is to totally upgrade with the 240sx system....not gonna go there yet Just try to get this system running as good as possible. First option is to get the 82 200sx ECM with O2 sensor, would have to aug a hole in the bottom of my EM (for the O2) or grab a Z24i EM. Wondering if the ECM would then adjust the air/fuel ratio...?....or would the larger displacement engine just confuse it....like I am. :blink: ... :) Second option would be to buy a aftermarket A/F ratio gauge and mount an O2 sensor in my EM, (or Z24i EM) and adjust the spring tension in the AFM accordingly. I'm leaning towards the second option. ? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 22, 2010 Report Share Posted October 22, 2010 That's the reverse idler gear. It's in constant mesh with the reverse counter gear just below it, but the big one has to be manually meshed with it. If the clutch isn't in fully or the vehicle rolling it will grind, there are no synchronizers on the reverse gear. I'd be surprised if there was no wear. Again, these gears are in constant mesh. If they are worn check the two front bearings for looseness. If the bottom (counter bearing) is loose the two two front to back shafts with all the gears on them will move apart under load and the gear lash will change. This will cause wear and noise. This is part of a bearing cage that holds and spaces the balls. I have one just like it and it was from here... Think this made much noise??? This one was obvious but there are ball bearings in the adapter plate between the two case halves and ... on the output shaft (extreme far left behind the speedo drive, above. And on the very rear of the counter shaft (lower left) behind the large nut. Below. Try forcing the upper main shaft away from the lower counter shaft and try to locate any looseness. Both shafts should be well supported by bearings and have minimal movement. Doug, you get your digital caliper at Crappy Tire??? . Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2010 "Think this made much noise??? This one was obvious but there are ball bearings in the adapter plate between the two case halves and ..." I can feel a difference with the 'new' trannie, a little less vibration/noise....but not the only issue. Truck isn't bad running around town....but anything over 80kmh....vibration is increasing with speed. Changed the rear end and drive shafts with know good ones....no difference. That leaves the transfer case......which I've also changed. Could of swapped in a bad one. :huh: The shifter on that is also vibrating more than normal. Tires/rims and all mounts are good. The vibration does not go away with clutch pedal depressesd Who knows..... :blink: Just don't want to be stuck up the mountain in the middle of winter because of something I could of repaired. "Try forcing the upper main shaft away from the lower counter shaft and try to locate any looseness. Both shafts should be well supported by bearings and have minimal movement." I'm rather curious so I'll have another look at the trannie. "Doug, you get your digital caliper at Crappy Tire???" Negative.....Local parts store. Think is was around 10 bucks. Don't think I would trust it measuring anything under 32s of an inch..... :) Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted October 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2010 Found the bearing...ball is missing its cage Checked the oil in the t case......clean and nothing on magnet.Although....the oil has only a couple thousand ks on it.Figure if something was fucked in there.....should have some metal residual on plug.Hmmmmmm...Plan F is looming Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 22, 2010 Report Share Posted October 22, 2010 It's always the counter bearings! Usually front, but here it's the middle one on the adapter plate. . Quote Link to comment
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