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Z32 caliper brackets for 320/520/521/620


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These are Fineline's design, he handed over the reigns to me a while ago since I was building them for him anyway and he didn't have time to mess with it.

 

These are $160 shipped in the US.

 

Parts Needed:

 

Front

Rotors: 2002 Honda passport, 2001-2004 Isuzu Rodeo, 2002-2003 Rodeo sport

Calipers: 1990 Naturally aspirated Nissan 300zx. (26mm)

Pads: 1990 Naturally aspirated Nissan 300zx

Lines: Any 300zx or Russell steel braided equivalent. Summit racing has Earls adaptors that will work. P/n EAR-592035ERL (-3an to 10x1.25 IF), EAR-989535ERL (-3an to 10x1.25 tube) You can then use universal Russell lines.

 

Rear

Rotors, calipers, pads, and lines: 1989-1993 Isuzu amigo, 1988-1991 Isuzu Trooper, 1988-1995 Isuzu Pickup

 

Master Cylinder

 

7/8” or 15/16” bore from any year 280zx with vertical mounting tabs.

 

 

Instructions:

 

Front:

1. Remove wheels

2. Remove brake lines at the frame

3. Remove drums

4. Remove dust cap and remove hub assembly

5. Un-bolt backing plate and remove

6. Install caliper bracket with ears facing rearward and spaced inboard

7. Install hub assembly onto spindle and re-install dust cap

8. Slide rotor over hub

9. Install calipers with bleeder at the top

10. Install lines

11. Bleed

 

 

Rear:

1. Remove Wheels

2. Remove drums

3. Remove parking brake cables

4. Remove brake lines from wheel cylinders

5. Remove 4 nuts behind backing plate assembly

6. Remove axle assembly (be sure to keep track of preload shims)

7. Remove the 4 studs (be sure no to damage the threads as you are going to re-use these)

8. The backing plate should be able to slide off the bearing housing to give you a better angle at your next step.

9. Remove backing plate. You have two ways of doing this. You can either have a machine shop remove the bearing assembly the “book” way or you can cut the backing plate off. If you choose the later be sure to protect the bearing assembly from the metal shavings you will create during the procedure.

10. Install the studs back in the bearing housing

11. Install axle back into axle tube with bearing spacer shims

12. Place caliper mounting bracket on the back side of the axle tube with the caliper position toward the rear of the vehicle and replace nuts removed in step 5

13. Slide rotor over axle

14. Install caliper mounting bracket using supplied spacers

15. Install calipers and pads

16. Install Isuzu rubber brake lines with banjo bolts and connect other end to existing hard lines

 

Master cylinder

 

1. For 620 owners you can just replace the master with the larger bore M/C. To keep fabrication to a minimum use one that has the mounting tabs in the vertical position. I was able to use the 1 1/16” m/c from a z-32 but there was some modification needed on the booster itself. All of the fittings on the 620 are metric and you already have the required two lines. (Front and rear) 520/521 install requires replacing the SAE fittings with metric ones. 520/521 installs will also require either a 280zx-proportioning valve or something comparable (Willwood adjustable) and lines run for the

 

 

 

These are older pics of the brackets, I'll get some new ones up soon:

 

Install011.jpg

 

Install023.jpg

 

block004disc1.jpg

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Sorry Skib, these will barely fit under a 15" wheel, that's what the Z32's ran stock. 11"+ rotor plus caliper=too buco

 

 

damn, so conflicted :o brakes.... such.... hotness.... but have to run steelies...... for fischart truck .... :blink:

 

who knows where I can get 16in steelies that the 620 dog dishes will fit :lol:

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  • 3 months later...

Found it :) pics of the rear being installed and the finished product please? Can you upgrade the MC before the swap just to get that part out of the way early? What is you preferred MC to use, I would rather get the best thing up front than upgrade later.

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Found it :) pics of the rear being installed and the finished product please? Can you upgrade the MC before the swap just to get that part out of the way early? What is you preferred MC to use, I would rather get the best thing up front than upgrade later.

 

search for the rear bracket thread, all the info you need will be there, including what master cylinder to use.

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  • 2 weeks later...

BEEBANI,

 

From your experience what would the cost on the remaining parts be from say a U-pull it or pick n pull etc? Also do the steel brake lines need to be modded more than just the fitting for the 521? or is it just the soft line that hooks into the cailpers?

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Loaded calipers are anywhere from $70 each to $120 each without paying the core charge at most places for new ones. The rotors are usually around $30-$40 each. You will need the adapter for the stock hardlines to adapt them from SAE to metric, then you can use the Z32 rubber lines.

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  • 8 months later...

I got mine from Beebani and WOW sooo much nicer to be able to stop reliably, in a short distance, and in a straight line! AND I only put the fronts on so far! i am doing the rears soon but with the snow we just had (Thank god the fronts were on for that!) i have to wait for a nice day to do the work.

 

Beebani, thanks again for a great product and AMAZING support (answered about a million emails for me)

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