labguy Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 I removed a leaf from the rear of my 620 and also removed a thick (about 1/2") long plate from the bottom. Now the springs have a slight reverse curve to them. My question is regarding the thick bottom spring/plate. Is that an overload spring or does it need to be in place to support the rest of the spring pack? Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 yeah thats an overload spring. was it curved, or just flat? since your talking about lowering the truck it seems, do you have anything else added? drop blocks? Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 Could help better if there was some pictures :D Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 It allows you to carry a load properly. Without them or any other leaf will soften the springs to the point that the truck will bottom out on the pavement much easier. If looking to lower the truck, it should be obvious that being closer to the pavement will require a stiffer spring to prevent bottoming on bumps. Or at least the stock stiffness. What about taking the stock spring apart, turn the main leaf with the mounting holes upside down and stack the others below it in decreasing sizes. The pin that bolts them together must be installed with the locating bump upwards so it still locates and locks it to the axle. This should drop it 4-5" ??? Quote Link to comment
labguy Posted October 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 The spring was flat. I would normally think of this as an overload. I have a couple different lowering blocks I'm trying for the mock up. Right now I have 4" blocks with pinion angle correction on it. I also have a set of 3" flat blocks. I'm trying to get as much static drop as possible without major surgery (i.e. z'ing the frame). If I stay with the 4" blocks I'll be doing a small "c" notch for a little extra clearance. The front is easy enough given the torsion bars, I'll just reindex them and I'm re-working the shock mounts. I've been toying with the idea of coil overs on the front and eliminating the torsion bars. I have some old stock car stuff around (coil overs etc.) and lots of different springs. The front is king pin which I've never dealt with before but it looks straight forward enough. If I go with coil overs I'll probably do a little surgery on the "spring pocket" (for lack of a better term) and rebox it to give the lower control arm more movement without bottoming out. Thanks for the advice everyone, this is the first time I've ever done the remove a spring trick, in my younger (and more financially secure) days I just order leafs the way I wanted them in whatever rate I wanted. Quote Link to comment
labguy Posted October 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 Might try flipping the spring....Do I still need to run the "overload"? On top? Quote Link to comment
Moedatto Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 I arced my springs and just flipped the overlaods! works great!!! Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 If it were mine id........... reinstall the overload leaf [short flat bar] & revove the middle leaf. Now youd have the main & overload leafs only. Wheather you run the 3 or 4 inch block the axle will still be close to the frame & the noise will be annoying & also not good suspension wise. You'll want to raise the carrier bearing about 1 1/2 - 2 inches to save the rubber surrounding the bearing & also improve driveline angles. A simple C notch will be enough if it's just going to be a static drop but if ou ever decide to run a 3 or 4 link youll need a bigger notch to lay frame. If thats in your plans do a bigger notch NOW & not later..i speak from experience :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
labguy Posted October 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 Thanks for the advice everyone. I re-installed the thick flat spring and the problem is solved. The ride is stiffened and I only gained about 1/2" height from it. As for the c notch Pacific Coast, I don't plan on ever bagging the rear so a small notch will work fine. I plan on welding in a segment of 6" steel pipe from the back of the frame, boxing in into the back side and then cutting the front side out once everything is welded up solid so I dont get any frame movement. I have access to a plasma cutter so that makes things pretty easy to do without removing the bed. I'll post some pictures one of these days. Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 Good old east wenatchee..........get that truck ready to cruise apple blossom next year!! I live over here in the tater state but I am an apple baby........born on an orchard out in Malaga.....all my extended family live in Wenatchee still and I try to hit up aple blossom every year. Gonna be over there next year with the longbox, all painted up! Bill Quote Link to comment
labguy Posted October 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 I hope to be done with it by spring. I don't really cruise Apple Blossom anymore but maybe this year I'l take a couple runs down the Ave. Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Yeah i don't as much as I used to....we stay at the avenue motel, and usually just watch ppl go by. Cops have been being bigger and bigger dicks, especially to out of towners. No big deal it's still pretty cool.........back when it would take a couple hours to get from Stans down to our hotel.....lots of fun. Good luck with the truck build! Bill Quote Link to comment
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