1970 Datsun 510 Wagon Lowering Options and Rear Setups

[uieluck]

I've read a lot of thread topics and have noticed everyone like certain/different suspension setups for gooners. So for all the 510 goon experts this question is for you. I have a 1970 wagon that I would like to put suspension and brakes on and replace the stock. From the MILD to WILD and BUDGET to NO-BUDGET can you guys give 3 set-up suggestions? Everything from 200x parts to 350z parts etc etc.

 

Example:

MILD

Front: Keep front stock struts / lowering springs blah blah

Front: Keep stock rotors

Back: Block it

Back: Get drum brakes from a 1922 Ford etc etc..

 

Medium

XYZ

 

WILD

Front: Weld on F1 struts

Front: Use 27" disc brakes from an A10 jet fighter

Back: Replace the leafs with independent

Back: Replace hubs and go with a 8 lug 19" 22 piston caliper

 

 

I've also noticed MOST and I mean MOST goons sit weird in back,, kinda like if they were a jacked up muscle car (I can't stand this). Since this is my first wagon I'd like to give it a stance like the rest of my 2drs. Attached are two pictures to which I'm referring to, the yellow wagon (NO WAY) the green wagon (to the liking). Can somebody please explain this weird phenomenon?

 

http://japanesenosta...10_wagon_09.jpg

 

http://carphotos.car...30206_large.jpg

[Laecaon]

just so you know wheels will have a big impact. That green goon is running 18 inch wheels I do believe. It helps fill the well, give a lowered look and not lower it.

[uieluck]

Oops,, wheels forgot about those. Ya let's assume they would be 17" inchers.

[Duncan]

2"-2.5" is about as low as you can go before the diff starts hitting the cargo floor. To go any lower, you have to channel the rear floor to clear the diff.

 

They look great when they are super-low, but I want to use my goon to haul stuff and the flat floor is very handy.

[Pacific coast Datsun]

My wagon suspenson drp was definately a budget / free parts hook up job.

Front : 280 ZX struts w/ new stock inserts w/ modified perch so i can run 510 cut coils [ & no the perch doesnt hit the wheel well] & bump steer spacers

Rear: overload leaf removed, 2 inch block & air shocks w/ cut in half bump stops.

with NO air in the shocks the diff. will occasionaly smack the trans. tunnel which isnt good i know so i put a bit or air in the shocks then it rides like a Caddy.

[hang_510]

same budget as PCD, but i went CO in the front w/tockico 5way adj. (same set up as the sedan, softer spring)

 

R= added & flipped a 3rd leaf (about 1" drop and stiffer) and have 1-1/2" block.

likely air shocks as well. (still in progress :angry: )

 

i also have a torque bar that will be installed.

 

 

i prefer a balanced look as well, but if your gonna ever cary a siginificant load, well then...

[greengoon]

I've also noticed MOST and I mean MOST goons sit weird in back,, kinda like if they were a jacked up muscle car (I can't stand this). Since this is my first wagon I'd like to give it a stance like the rest of my 2drs. Attached are two pictures to which I'm referring to, the yellow wagon (NO WAY) the green wagon (to the liking). Can somebody please explain this weird phenomenon?

 

 

The stance is mainly because of the solid rear axle on the goons vs the IRS on the sedans.

 

To get around this, you've got to be tricky:

 

Mine was low budget do it yourself as well. Front is shortened 510 struts with Ground Control coil overs. I made a new top hat and bearing holder from 3/16" steel. I run 175/55/15 tires on Rota 15x7+20 wheels and they tuck with minimal fender work. Minimal rub at full turn.

 

Rear is removed overload, de arched spring pack 1.5", 3" blocks and modified front leaf hanger to remove that inch of rubber stuff. I have the smallest Monroe Max-Airs they make and I can carry my two kids in the back with 50psi in the shocks. Raises it about 1.5". I removed the bump stop nuggets and put bigger rubber stoppers from a Toyota pickup in their place. When I bottom out I can barely tell. It rides pretty darn good considering the front crossmember is less than 3" off the ground. I've also cut and raised my driveshaft tunnel to avoid rubbing.

 

 

more at http://s490.photobucket.com/albums/rr265/99datsun510/?start=0

[uieluck]

First off — GreenGooner,, your stance is perfie. You have successfully defeated the 1978 Olds Cutlass "jacked up" look, please god may that never come back into style and the same goes for parachute pants. I'm pretty much a rookie and timid when it comes to wrenching, so I'm weighing my options. Also this is the 4th 510 I've owned, however the first waGoon, the rest have been two doors. Your rear floor chop looks tidy. I'd like to go bigger on the wheels, I'm ok with it riding like a stiff skateboard,, I definitely don't want or need the "caddy" feel. But, I'm concerned about rubbing,, cause somebody likes to take corners. You are saying your 15x7's rub?? Your car pretty much looks titties. What kind of rear seat belts are you running? And speaking of seatbelts,, has anybody in the 510 world MacGyver'd/welding in a LATCH system? Your truck is pretty sweet too. BTW I would have a hard time believe this picture was taking in Murray, UT?! WTF? Here's my grandma sled. T—

 

[greengoon]

Thanks for the comments! Like your goon. Believe it or not, light blue was the first color I wanted. I would slam it the way it is and put the wheels you want and be done with it. And I see you have a vinyl top. At first I didn't like it but then it grew on me. Haven't seen very many 510 wagons with then so we are an elite group :lol:

 

Okay, questions: Seat belts are from local auto parts store. Put them in right at the beginning for my kids. The only rubbing I get is from my front wheels at full turn going slow through a parking lot. I don't SCCA my goon but I do throw it through corners and haven't had any damaging tire wear yet. I thought about 16s or 17s at one time and they are doable with really low pro tires. Not a lot of offset choices in the bigger wheels. You are very right on the shot location. NOT Murray. I took the goon down to JCCS this year. After the show, we took some shots with Long Beach in the background!

[INDY510]

I thought about 16s or 17s at one time and they are doable with really low pro tires.

 

I would reccomend 15s ............. I have 16x7s with 195/40/16 tires,,,, and that just isn't enough sidewall for daily driving

 

 

Not to mention the tires rub on the front fenders while cornering,, , , , (not a good feeling)

 

 

 

I would NEVER ever put 17s on a Datsun ........... you can't get any lower profile than a 16" tire.... .. so you loose an inch (i.e. your car can be an inch lower with 16s)

[70Goon]

I am pretty sure the olive green battlewagon you posted has a 4 link rear suspension which is pretty expensive to do unless you can fab and weld your own stuff. I am in the same boat as you regarding my decision for the rear setup as well. The fronts on my goon are stock 510 struts with an Ermish coilover kit running 16x7 205/40/16's all around. Yes the front rubs when cornering hard and yes I do bottom out on the fenders but I think that if I were to roll the front fenders, i wouldnt have that issue.

My rear end is stock but I was planning on doing either the overload removal with 2" blocks or getting them dearched. There are a set of Monroe overload springs out there that are pretty cheap to help stiffen the ride but I havent gotten that far just yet.

Like everyone else said, you can only lower the rear so far until you need to make adjustments to the trans tunnel etc etc.....

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Theres more info in the "goons check in" thread regarding air shocks which opens up a few different possibilities for the rear suspension on the wagons.Look on the last few pages... :cool:

[datzenmike]

The 1978 Olds Cutlass "jacked up" look is common to trucks and goons because of their extra load carrying capability. When loaded with a few hundred pounds it 'looks right'. To each his own as far as opinion... I don't like a car too high or even stock height, where is always room to lower it some, but don't care for poorly lowered ones that can't be driven over roll curbs, raised manhole lids or that bruise your kidneys. Form follows function in my books. Function always is compromised when it is forced to follow a certain 'look'. (form)

[Xander_42]

Another wild option is the narrowed FB RX-7 GSL-SE rear axle. Disc brakes, and LSD all in one. Could also build a four-link in the process.

[sick620]

just give me your goon and get a 620 :lol: .... easier for the low....

 

[datrod]

17's with cut springs and 2"blocks in the rear

coilover set up with 280ZX struts and brakes. Cut 1 1/2" and put jetta.

5 way luminas

stock set up. with a cut spring. This set up sucked. The ride was shit.

[datrod]

Coilover set up with same 2" blocks in the rear. 195-50-15 tire. rides great no rubbing. Can turn full lock and not hit anything.

This will give you an idea and 17"s vs 15's same spot for the pic.

[datrod]

Another wild option is the narrowed FB/SA22C RX-7 GSL-SE rear axle. Disc brakes, and LSD all in one. Could also build a four-link in the process.

 

I like this idea. :)

[INDY510]

.

First gen. RX7 diff swap:

 

http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4766&start=0

 

 

^^ doesn't look "easy"

[Xander_42]

Here's another: http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=12531&start=0

 

The jigging for welding doesn't look that hard to make, and at $45 to get each axle re-splined, it wouldn't end up being too expensive. Could probably, if you did all the work yourself (including making the weld fixture) get it done for $300 plus the axle. If multiple people wanted to do it, they could even split the cost of the material for the welding jig, and do their builds as a group, just saying. Also, I'm not 100% on this, but from what I've heard. The GSL-SE is the only FB RX-7 with a 4x114.3 bolt pattern, but, the GSL, also has an LSD, and disc brakes, and has a 4x110 (not 100) bolt pattern. As such using a GSL axle, would be the same as a GSL-SE axle, but with also re-drilling the axles to 4x114.3, and pressing in new studs, and pressing out the old ones.

 

Here's that same writeup, but on the company's website.

http://spriso.com/content/products/mazda-rx-7-gsl-se-rear-end-swap/

[banzai510(hainz)]

Datrod

Thats a bad ass wagon!

[datrod]

Datrod

Thats a bad ass wagon!

 

Thanks. :)

[imtb]

I finally got round to lowering my rear, I went with the DQ article by adding a #2 leaf and flipping it. Very please with the stance and I was able to drop the front a little more. It firmed up the rear but not to much. Only pic I have for now.

 

[hang_510]

imtb, what size wheels?

 

i am doing the same thing, and have 1 3/4" blocks

[teddatsun]

i have had four wagons now. i put in kyb gas shocks with new bushings all around, and new springs up front with blocks in the back. only lowered an inch+ ish but super firm good handling, not good enuf to duck n dodge semi trucks at a 100...rip black bastard (2 wagons killed now). my new wagon has all these goodies in it now. its mild with a bored rebuilt L20 w/5spd, weber, exaust, and allwheel discs. im only running 14" enkei style wheels but this setup was definately to my liking as i used to race 4x4 trucks and love rippin it up thru the woods on gravel and need clearence dont want to bottom out super bad (fucked up exaust rallying is why she sits now). i rolled the race truck. its dead now too. havnt put the rear lowering blocks in yet so it has the funny lift in the back....less weight on the rear tires=more bentness??