B210, Dashboard brake light indicator stays on.

[Nicholas7620]

My dashboard brake light has stayed on for years, ten or more at least. <_<

 

 

 

 

I disconnected the ebrake switch. The light did not go off as hoped :o .

 

 

 

 

 

I disconnected the brake imbalance switch on the brake line. The light did not go off as expected <_< .

 

 

 

 

 

We went to the wiring diagram to trace the Yellow wire with green line from the ebrake switch to the choke relay, with the choke relay disconnected the brake light went out. When I put on the ebrake the dashboard brake light went on as expected :D . When I took off the ebrake the dashboard brake light went off as expected. :P :D

 

 

 

We reconnected the choke relay and the dashboard brake light came back on and stayed on :mellow: .

 

Question is what is the purpose of the Yellow/Green wire going to the choke relay, with the choke relay disconnected the brake light indicator works as expected with the ebrake switch. :rolleyes:

 

 

Zerow What does IIRC stand for or mean.

[I'm BLUE]

^^^ IIRC = If I Recall Correctly

 

My experience with dashlights in-operation is grounding issues , past that I don't know much !

[Dguy210]

 

We went to the wiring diagram to trace the Yellow wire with green line from the ebrake switch to the choke relay, with the choke relay disconnected the brake light went out. When I put on the ebrake the dashboard brake light went on as expected :D . When I took off the ebrake the dashboard brake light went off as expected. :P :D

 

We reconnected the choke relay and the dashboard brake light came back on and stayed on :mellow: .

 

Question is what is the purpose of the Yellow/Green wire going to the choke relay, with the choke relay disconnected the brake light indicator works as expected with the ebrake switch. :rolleyes:

 

I took a look at the wiring diagrams I have for the '74 and it is not hooked up this way, so go figure :rolleyes: Obviously you are grounding through the choke relay to the YG wire after the switches, I can't think of a good reason why though. If it was me, I would just disconnect the YG wire from the choke relay and call it good. :D

 

[datzenmike]

I have a diagram that shows the choke relay connected??? The diagram does not show the interior of the relay so hard to figure out what's happening in there.

[Nicholas7620]

LOL DGUY210 :D I want to disconnect the Yellow/Green Line and call it good.

 

I hate to second guess the factory engineers :P :) . The brake light came on and stayed on two years after I bought my BEE. There might be a good reason why I shouldn't disconnect the Yellow Green Line. I could just leave it alone and call it good.

 

I have a rust hole in my floor on the passenger side :( , I'm fixing that tonight with a trip to Home Depot.

 

DTP I'll check on the grounds.

[fastdadd]

i wonder if the chock relay is shorted to ground...but thank you for bring this up because mine does the same thing

[zerow]

I took a look at the wiring diagrams I have for the '74 and it is not hooked up this way, so go figure :rolleyes: Obviously you are grounding through the choke relay to the YG wire after the switches, I can't think of a good reason why though. If it was me, I would just disconnect the YG wire from the choke relay and call it good. :D

 

Instead of removing the YG wire from the equation, why not first remove the relay from the block.

 

If I Recall Correctly (IIRC...lol) the relay grounds through its own casing. Taking the relay off of the metal frame it is attached to should stop the flow of ground to the wire and extinguish the light. For what it is worth, I have since wired through my OEM Interlock Relay and have no more issues. The '73 610 had it where you had to close the door, buckle the seat belt, and finally turn on the car IN THAT ORDER! Otherwise, unbuckle, open door and start all over again.

[datsunaholic]

Believe it or not, one of my '78 510s would turn on the brake light when the alternator took a dump. The alternator fed the auto-choke relay, and since that wasn't working the choke wasn't working, AND the brake light stayed on. Replaced the alternator and the problem went away. Very odd.

[Nicholas7620]

Howdy Datsunaholic, Zerow, Fastdadd, DatzenMike, DGuy210, DTP and everyone,

 

This morning we retraced the Yellow/Green wire through the wiring diagram and read up on the choke relay in the 76 Datsun Shop Manual.

 

We yellow highlighted the Yellow/Green line and traced it to the number 5 position on the choke relay switch.

 

 

We found a page in the Shop Manual regarding the Choke Relay, found the number 5 position for the yellow/green line. We were still not sure from the narrative what the Y/G wire was doing or the purpose of the Y/G wire.

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you know, I have a 1977 B210 Coupe as my parts car. We decided to change the choke relay in my 1976 for the choke relay in the 1977 parts car.

 

Next 3 PIC's are the old choke relay switch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next two PIC's are the 77 (newer) CHOKE relay switch (on the LEFT) and the old

76 Choke relay switch.

 

 

 

 

The next picture shows the INSTALLED newer '77 choke relay switch and we are testing the dash board brake illumination light. The light was now OFF :o :) as hoped for.

 

I put on the ebrake, the illumination brake light came on. I released the ebrake and the brake light illumination stopped and went off as hoped. ;)

 

 

 

Evidently the Yellow/Green wire grounded out in the automatic choke relay switch and made the dash board brake light stay on constantly. We still are not sure of the purpose of the Y/G wire routing to the CHOKE RELAY. Maybe I'll pick up a couple extra horsepower units, :P :D

 

The next two PIC's show the OLD '76 CHOKE Relay with the cover removed. The coil seemed extra blackened, not sure if that cause the Y/G wire to ground out.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm now repairing the holes in my floor board. This has been fun. I couldn't have found solutions to my "halogen H4's" or "Brake Illumination" with out all the tips, information and hints from the RATSUN FORUM posters and postings.

 

The tenacity of my friend "NAPA Albert" and his electrical acumen complemented the information I gathered from the RATSUN FORUM "Intelligencia". :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: Very Cool B)

[zerow]

Believe it or not, one of my '78 510s would turn on the brake light when the alternator took a dump. The alternator fed the auto-choke relay, and since that wasn't working the choke wasn't working, AND the brake light stayed on. Replaced the alternator and the problem went away. Very odd.

My 610 did that as well. Strange.

 

I will say this: I think the car was telling me to STOP (BRK) and handle the CHG light situation right then.

 

Nicholas7620 - I am very glad to hear that the problem has been solved. Ratsun does save the day once again!

[ggzilla]

If the alternator is bad, the current might be back feeding through the N connector on the alt (which is used by the choke relay). I don't think its too weird. Bad grounds cause problems with the lights.

[jboulukos]

If the alternator is bad, the current might be back feeding through the N connector on the alt (which is used by the choke relay). I don't think its too weird. Bad grounds cause problems with the lights.

I recently had my BRAKE warning light come on intermittently in conjunction with the CHG light.  Had the alternator rebuilt and both warning lights turned off.