Feng Shui (The 510 Experiment) (Pics fixed to Page 72)
Posted 07 September 2010 - 07:22 AM
So far I replaced the trunk with a steely, replaced the hood with a steely, installed the hood latch setup, replaced the wiper motor (High wasn't working), replaced the outer window wipers and tightened up a few things. It's nice having a parts car....
Today I'll pick up the new 280zx inner tie rod ends for the T/C Rods. I believe thats whats on there now (all worn to hell and clunking), if not I'll make them fit.
Anyone know the history of this car? From what I'm told it was an scca car (still rems of the cage in there). A guy bought it from Seattle, drove it to Eugene, replaced the KA24DE with a 107K motor, put new tires on it and traded it to the fellow I bought it from...
One thing I need to fix is when the Electric Radiator fan is "on" and I turn the key "off" its like the fuel pump shuts off, then the power slowly drains out of the ignition/ecu/radio until there's no power left, then a relay screams for a while and dies out.... This only happens when the fan is on and the key is turned off. No fan and it shuts down like it should. I'll have to dig into the wiring, just wondering if anyone had any ideas.
This is what it used to look like.
This is when I got it.
Posted 07 September 2010 - 07:56 AM
The solution is to run the fan off a different circuit. Maybe even better (if it's controlled by a temperature switch) is to leave it "live" all the time so it runs after you've shut off the engine (much like modern cars do).
Or power the fan via a relay instead of direct wired to the ignition.
Well, at least he gets 24 hours notice. That's more than most of us get. All most of us get is, "Mind that bus!" "What bus?" _splat_!
Posted 07 September 2010 - 08:13 AM
Posted 07 September 2010 - 08:25 AM
That makes sense, I like the idea of the fan staying on after the key is off.
Thanks, I'm sure they'll be dropping in here soon then. It's always nice to be able to talk to the people that built the car. The swap was definitely well executed.
Posted 07 September 2010 - 08:36 AM
I am looking for a in-line temperature switch to controll my 2 electric fans...... .. . I think Icehouse has a post on here somewhere with a 200sx sender in a boiling pot of water on the stove......
Posted 07 September 2010 - 09:37 AM
This is the 8th 510 I've owned. I currently have a 72' 2 door but decided I'm not able to restore it right now. This one i can restore while I drive...
Posted 11 September 2010 - 02:56 PM
My goal was to replace the tired t/c rods (already had inner tie rods welded on but worn as hell). I wanted to also try and level the t/c rods and make a new pocket so the pivot point would remain same as the stock bushing style. This is what the 3.0" tubing was for as I needed to move the mounting point for the tie rod end forward 3/4".
Here's my work. The welds are strong but ugly, definitely looks better in person......
Concrete slab is sloped, t/c rod is actually level now.....
Years ago I made a few Air Filter Adapters out of UHMW for my SR20DET, for some reason I have been dragging one around with me.... Today I pulled the MAF and didn't like that the air filter was offset from the maf. A light bulb went off.... sure enough that old adapter fits and center the filter like it should.......
Posted 11 September 2010 - 04:42 PM
I am looking for a in-line temperature switch to controll my 2 electric fans...... .. .
I haven't installed it yet, but I bought this radiator probe fan controller kit. My hot-rod buddies seem to have good luck with them, so I'm gonna give it a whirl soon.
As I recall, it turns the fan on at 185 degrees and off at 165 degrees.
Posted telepathically from my man cave...
Posted 26 September 2010 - 05:02 PM
What did I find? Well first of all, thanks to whoever had the bright idea of half assing everything and then putting down sound deadening mat. You could've waited and done the car right before sealing its fate. One day I will have to remove this stuff and I'm not looking forward to it...
The shifter boot/seal area will have to be totally redone, the raised up section underneath the throttle pedal will have to be cutout and redone along with the exhaust underneath it (a little dangerous to have a 2" higher section of floorboard where your throttle/brake foot goes....). Some nice guy used 1" long self tapping sheet metal screws to screw everything through the floor, including carpet... The front seats were falling through the floor due to the very well thought out back seat mounts (more on this later)....
Here's the floor after the well screwed down carpet came out. You can see the custom shift boot in the background...
Here's what I found behind the back seat. Aluminum foil rattles quite nicely.....
Removed the "tin can".
My old dime became my parts car,I guess it will live on in a new car....
Here she is all back to stock'ish form, definitely could be a nicer install but I don't claim to be a body man!
All thats left is fix the tank sending unit, cut speaker holes, re-upholster back window tray, seal the whole back section with plastic to isolate from trunk,install new carpet..... Then off to the wrecking yard to cut the transmission tunnel/boot section out of a 240sx. I'm modding a after market tach into my old white needle gauge cluster. Next on the list is slot rear cross member and install a subie lsd,maybe cv's.
Thanks for looking!
Posted 26 September 2010 - 05:49 PM
but I have never seen that piece cut out......... .. what exactly is holding these cars together??? ....... is it really just the frame rails????
Posted 26 September 2010 - 05:59 PM
I have to say the car is coming together nicely, I have no regrets
Posted 26 September 2010 - 06:25 PM
This was the first part I made on her...
- RatVonDude likes this
Posted 06 October 2010 - 05:36 AM
As wonderful the sound of the laughter of children...nothing beats the silence of not having any damn kids!!
Why should I manage my attitude if you don't manage your stupidity?