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Feng Shui (The 510 Experiment) (Pics fixed through page 7..)


Josh K.

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That's the machine I like to run! Makes bad ass parts but isn't over the top. Machining is cool but takes way to long. I guess I'm inpatient in that respect. What did that part take, 3 hrs? Plus design time, which is totally worth it but when you pop the hood it's only dudes like us that know the time that goes into details like that. Looks awesome! Thats for sure.

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Icehouse,

My feelings exactly... Why buy a $20 Catch Can from Amazon when you can spend 10Hrs. of your spare time making one? Because its EXACTLY the way I want it... http://community.ratsun.net/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif

 

And yes, 3hrs to make that part. Probably 1hr design time.

 

Here's today progress.

 

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Edited by Josh K.
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Here's my Daily driver.

 

I replaced the motor, removed the emissions stuff and welded up the ports, new clutch, new weber progressive carb, rebuilt the battery tray and replaced the carrier bearing. She's really a champ!

 

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Edited by Josh K.
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Check the Catch Can off the list....

 

Grind all excess mounting points and material off intake manifold.

Hot tank manifold and weld up egr port and PCV ports. (Drop off tomorrow night, weld Tuesday)

Weld water neck where clearanced for alternator belt.

Machine a catch can for the PCV and weld a slash pipe in the exhaust to vent. (Start designing Monday)

Contemplate machining a oil filter relocation plate.... (It's now on the design list)

Redo the whole Engine harness and relay/fues system. (2 weeks out)

Cutout the "hump" floor section and weld in new/old floor.. (Next weekend)

Weld in passenger seat mount. (Next weekend)

Finish scraping the sound mat off the floors. (Next weekend)

Weld up all holes in the floor. (Next weekend)

Weld the new shift boot section from underneath the car and seal/paint (Next weekend)

Seal/paint the floor inside the car. (Whenever I can afford the supplies)

Redo the whole exhaust system (possibly dual 2" with a crossover midway) (Um.....)

Possibly make a new transmission mount to reroute exhaust. (Maybe?)

Finish modding gauge cluster to make aftermarket tach match white needle gauge set. (Next week)

Slot rear crossmember and possibly cut second hole for dual 2" exhaust. (When hell freezes over?)

 

 

Here she is! design changed a little on the shop floor...

 

I plan on stuffing the cavity with maybe a Brillo pad to help separate out the oil? Just gotta order the fittings from McMaster Carr

 

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Dude that catch can is awesome! Are you going to get it coated? Maybe some writing machined into it?

 

 

 

Thanks!

 

It's nice to have keys to the shop on the weekend! As long as a machine doesn't have a job setup then I can do what I please ;)

 

 

Yeah it is awesome! We just got a new CNC machinist that is into datto's, that makes 2 machinist at my work that are into datto's and 6 or 7 dudes that have dattos!

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Dude that catch can is awesome! Are you going to get it coated? Maybe some writing machined into it?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah it is awesome! We just got a new CNC machinist that is into datto's, that makes 2 machinist at my work that are into datto's and 6 or 7 dudes that have dattos!

 

I might powder coat all the pieces I end up making. I can't anodize them since they're all different grades of aluminum, it's a minimum cost per batch/per grade. Maybe hard coat? I still got a lot of stuff to do before final assembly (like buy a supercharger..).

 

what would I write on it?

 

For my ECU/Fuse/Relays I'm going to make an aluminum tray that is hinged on the firewall end and bolts under the front of the dash. This way I can drop the front down and access everything facing forward (not upside down), when done it bolts back up you can't see any wires....

 

Today I gotta get back to working on the floor so I can put the motor back in and mock up the wiring and accessories.

 

I have a question. The IACV controls the idle, the Air Regulator controls fast idle only. Do I need really the Air Regulator? I don't want it in my engine bay!

 

Hey Icehouse, I think I met you at XAS (xtreme auto salon) like 4 years ago, you were driving the white SR 510? I had my 240 there for a swap (lived in an apartment at the time).

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Damn anodizing aluminum is my favorite!!! Did you make them out of 7075 and 6061 or something? I wonder how different they will look.... Maybe 2 tone :)

 

Yeah I used to go to XAS quite a bit, got both my SR's from them. Kelly is kind of a fuck, he said he would give me 200 bucks for the clip if I didn't want it. Then when I brought it to him he changed it to store credit, then I wanted a SAFC2 and he said he couldn't do all 2 on the SAFC2 because he would loose money.... WTF! O well I guess... Live and learn.

 

What car was yours? They had quite a few nissan's there. I actually applied to work there. They hired Joe instead even though at the time I fixed a CA swap that he was working on at a buddies house that he couldn't figure out... They said that since I worked on old cars I wouldn't be able to work on cars they build... IMO old cars are WAY harder. After they saw some of my tig welding they wanted me to build intercooler piping but by then I got my new job and didn't really want to work 2, kinda wish I would have for a little bit just to get more practice :)

 

 

I've wanted to do my wiring like that for a while. It's just added work that I haven't had time for. I found a kick as MILL connector at work that was 36 pin and could handle some good current too... Someday :)

 

You can run a KA without any idle control, it just idles bad during the winter if at all. The air regulator is just for warm up, I don't have either on my 620 but wish I did... I just turned the idle up a bit and called it good since I stripped all the wiring for them out of the harness.

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Damn anodizing aluminum is my favorite!!! Did you make them out of 7075 and 6061 or something? I wonder how different they will look.... Maybe 2 tone smile.gif

 

Yeah I used to go to XAS quite a bit, got both my SR's from them. Kelly is kind of a fuck, he said he would give me 200 bucks for the clip if I didn't want it. Then when I brought it to him he changed it to store credit, then I wanted a SAFC2 and he said he couldn't do all 2 on the SAFC2 because he would loose money.... WTF! O well I guess... Live and learn.

 

What car was yours? They had quite a few nissan's there. I actually applied to work there. They hired Joe instead even though at the time I fixed a CA swap that he was working on at a buddies house that he couldn't figure out... They said that since I worked on old cars I wouldn't be able to work on cars they build... IMO old cars are WAY harder. After they saw some of my tig welding they wanted me to build intercooler piping but by then I got my new job and didn't really want to work 2, kinda wish I would have for a little bit just to get more practice smile.gif

 

 

I've wanted to do my wiring like that for a while. It's just added work that I haven't had time for. I found a kick as MILL connector at work that was 36 pin and could handle some good current too... Someday smile.gif

 

You can run a KA without any idle control, it just idles bad during the winter if at all. The air regulator is just for warm up, I don't have either on my 620 but wish I did... I just turned the idle up a bit and called it good since I stripped all the wiring for them out of the harness.

I'm gonna see if I can sneak my stuff through anodizing as a "shop" project... Yes I believe the pulley and catch can top are 6061, catch can base is 7075.

 

I found a few different bulkhead connectors but they were either too bulky, too expensive or not enough pins.... These ones are also sealed around the pins and where the faces meet.

 

So I can take off the air regulator and instead of a high idle (1200RPM) at start up it will just adjust and maintain say a normal (850RPM) correct? I'm running out of space and would love to not use this damn thing!

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I got my oil filter relocation plate. I have the stock filter adapter with me at work, just gotta measure all the dimensions and then design/make a new one thats low profile (to clear the supercharger) with 3/8 NPT holes.

 

This is where it will reside:

 

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Engine bay shot:

 

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Manifold all pretty now....

 

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Here's my buddy Eltons 510 that sits next to mine in his shop, he's currently swapping in a KA24DE also....

 

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Edited by Josh K.
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So I had limited time at work today since we got 6" of snow in Port Townsend but here's what I'm working on.

 

Since the supercharger replaces the lower intake manifold I have to do something about the I.A.A. (Idle Air Adjusting Unit). What I decided is to ditch the Air Regulator Valve (Cold start fast idle) and the FICD Valve (Air pump idle increase) and keep the IACV. So what I'm going to do is take the remaining parts and make a new body with 3/8NPT inlet and outlet. This will remote mount in a" TBD" location and allow me to retain the factory idle control. I'll route the inlet before the Throttle body and the outlet into the supercharger plenum. I might need a check valve also?

 

Here's the pieces. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have time to draw up the new one. I might get lazy and just make a plate, we'll see...

 

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Edited by Josh K.
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On 11/24/2010 at 4:59 PM, mklotz70 said:

I want your job!!

 

I don't know why anyone would want my "job" http://community.ratsun.net/public/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif. Programming is only fun when your doing it for yourself! A good programmer is an IT Specialist, Computer Software Programmer, Mechanical Engineer, Machine Technician, Manual/CNC Machinist and a damn good baby sitter!!! As long as your paid well it's all good though http://community.ratsun.net/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif

 

So I haven't gotten a thing done as the power has been out at the shop since Monday. I mocked up the mounts for the Alternator to go on the driver side and will start on this Friday. Still gotta design the IACV Body and Oil filter relocation block.

 

I decided on using the Cobalt M62 supercharger. I will most likely shorten the snout/ hack the back off and shorten and make a nice plenum. More on this when I actually buy the damn thing...

 

 

Here's the current state of my wiring harness.

 

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Edited by Josh K.
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Sorry mike :( I knew you would find it eventually ;)

 

Josh... I've been thinking about your idle air situation. Really I only have the "cock and balls" (Thats what Luke calls the air regulator) on my 620, I've been daily driving it since it's been snowy here. I can start it and go back inside, even after 15 minutes it's still idling just fine. SO.... Maybe delete everything else.... It's your call, let me know what you do and how it turns out for future reference.

 

What ECU are you going to run? How much boost? Some timing retard is most likely going to be required, KA piston's aren't very resilient to the effects of boost. I have first hand experience with that too.

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Thanks Bob!

 

Icehouse,

I'm planning on around 7-10psi, SR370's and using the Nistune ECU. I was among the first few in the US to use the Nistune Setup on SR's. I actually tuned my car myself while living on Maui. I'm staying away from something like the Mallory Boost Retard setup because I know how crazy the stock timing map is. I'm not looking for tons of power (been there, done that) just lots of toque and a smooth powerband. I've found big boost is a little sketchy while doing 120MPH around corners..... What better way to represent Ratsun then a 510 with a supercharger whine? ;)

 

So if you still have the Air Regulator (cock and balls...) your saying it does the cold start fast idle fine, what about temperature differentials and idle speed without the actual idle control (IACV)?

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I think that depends on what you definition of a lot of power is. It's going to be over 200 which is quite a bit for most people. It's going to be nice! I've read a bit on Nistune, seems like a good route to go. If only they had a map conversion for it.

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Sooooo..... If I intercool then I can crack the boost up to like 12-15psi....

 

Maybe make a new intake manifold and sandwich this between it and the supercharger?

 

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Everyone I've know to boost a KA has broken ring lands, no one ever did anything with the timing map though. You should try it and let me know. I got Megasquirt for Franks KA, see if a better timing map can keep the pistons together.... I thought they would hold up with the dizzy dialed back, since then the total advance wouldn't be insane.... Didn't help... One thing I never did though was put my dial back on it and see what the total advance was... It still could have been a little high for 10psi. He used to have a single cam with high comp forged pistons, 8lbs of boost and it held up great. More research I guess.

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  • Josh K. changed the title to Feng Shui (The 510 Experiment) (Pics fixed through page 7..)

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