opalbeetle Posted June 26, 2019 Report Share Posted June 26, 2019 I love reading your updates, Mike. It’s a reminder to get after mine and get it reassembled. Thanks! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2019 I don't know what the 'noise' is at high speed but it's quiet and silky smooth around town. This weekend I raise her up and check a few things, but probably out she comes. The 5 speed in there is the greatest one I have ever had. Pulled from a scrap metal yard, used in my 620 for 10 or more years, now in the 710. Mid ratio box with 4:11 differential just a perfect combination. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2019 It's been quiet and reliable and greatly improves driving pleasure. I certainly don't want to hurt it by continuing to drive it if something IS wrong and will try to open it up and see. But before this, will check the driveshaft and differential. Seems to get loud right where you transition from load to coast. Right when the drive train is slack. But has to be at high speeds. I see that I have a Z series 5 speed in my parts pile, from a trade. It's pretty much identical and a mid ratio just '83 or '85. Definitely not a later one as it has the 56mm counter bearing. I'd like to try the '85 CA18ET converted to L series bolt pattern. It's probably the last update improvement to the 71b 5 speed before they were retired in mid '86. It's a wide ratio and may take some getting used to. If I don't like it, it will still work for road trip traveling and I always can use this mid ratio spare or fix the problem with the current 5 speed. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2019 Last night I drilled out the 1st/2nd shift rod hole and it wouldn't go on so I ran the drill through it several times and on she went with light hammering. To make sure the rod doesn't bind I slipped the tail on and put one bolt in to secure it. Yes it shifts just fine now. Disassembled and set the front and rear cases aside. Used a can of WD-40 to 'rinse' any dust off the gears and internal parts from being stored in a garbage bag for 8-10 years? and wiped it down. Put it in a fresh bag and stored it. Used the front aluminum cover as a template to cut a new gasket. No, I didn't use a cereal box this time. I found a slightly thinner roll of gasket material in town. I think I have lots of (non rtv) sealer around. I've glued these cases together before with some kind of gray stuff. Just waiting for the two seals to come in on Friday. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 Seals in trans 'glued' together yesterday. Jacked car up today and drained only a liter (1.1L) of oil out..... so refilled fully and took for a drive. Quieter but still there. Oil leaking from the front and the rear seal so this explains the loss and will try again tomorrow. Don't expect to get the other one in, but will see. Would like to also see if I can find out what's making all the noise. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2019 Pulled old faithful and installed the custom '85 CA18ET 5 speed with the L series front case on it. All I got done was get it mated to the engine and the 4 bolts in. I'm exhausted. Swapped the rear rubber mount, clutch arm and release bearing, trans plastic vent, the Orange 22 tooth pinion sleeve (thanks again Charlie) and greased the clutch arm pivot and splines with lithium grease. Again, I'm going to hurt tomorrow. Hopefully I can complete buttoning this up a little bit every night after work. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2019 I've had this forever and just found it again. I think from a 280zx? The filter says to 'oil before use' so maybe not stock? Just trying on the fit... As it is it won't fit but maybe if turned on it's side? Quote Link to comment
john510 Posted July 3, 2019 Report Share Posted July 3, 2019 That's a K&N filter Mike.Yes it needs to be oiled.They last forever.Just have to wash them and re-oil once in awhile.Supposed to have better flow than a paper filter. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2019 Well good to know. I was expecting a paper element. You can see right through it. What would you wash it with? Would WD-40 do? Quote Link to comment
john510 Posted July 3, 2019 Report Share Posted July 3, 2019 (edited) 16 hours ago, datzenmike said: Well good to know. I was expecting a paper element. You can see right through it. What would you wash it with? Would WD-40 do? Hot water and Dawn dish soap.Let it dry good.Use K&N filter oil only.Those filters are gauze inside the screen.We use those on our desert toys in the sand dunes.Never a problem keeping fine sand out of an engine. Edited July 3, 2019 by john510 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2019 Thanks John. Tuesday too fucked up from surviving Monday. Wednesday put the driveshaft, speedo cable and rear cross member in after work, but still fucked up, had to stop. Thursday put slave in, tightened trans to engine bolts completely, connected reverse lamps. Said if I can get that tiny clip on the shifter pin I'll stop.... installed shifter and gave up. Today, put starter on, filled with oil, greased the steering and LAC ball joints. The driver's side LCA wouldn't take grease as the zerk was siezed. Swapped the fitting and it was good after that. Fired her up and went for a drive. First gear is definitely a bit lower, the revs come up pretty fast... @25 MPH the old mid ratio was at 4,939, the new one is 5,342. Shift into second 'feels' better than the '79 zx but this transmission has different synchros in it. I had. 3rd and 4th not really much different. Fifth is taller at 18.8% rather than 13.6% on the zx. Still pulls good in 5th but revs are lower but only around 100 RPM at highway speeds. When I drilled out the 1/2 shift fork I assembled and bench tested the shifter action and thought going into 5th was a noticeably stiffer than all the other shifts. Just for the hell of it I loosened the 5th detente ball plug and it freed up. Tighten it and it was stiff. So for the fuck of it I trimmed the spring till it shifted about the same as the others. Yeah at highway speeds when you let off of the gas it can jump out of gear sometimes. Well I only tried this because it's so easy to get at and put a new spring back in. Something to do tomorrow, weather permitting. Overall I'm happy with the results. Has those little spring things sticking out on the 1st/2nd synchro hub. I've heard the 71C having a double 2nd gear synchro ring but that's not likely. The earlier71Bs don't. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2019 Spring on the detente ball replaced and shifter no longer jumps out of gear. Went for a 52 mile drive 1.6 Imp gallons and 31.94 MPG or 26 US. Runs very well. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 Going to try to mate them to this air cleaner... Home made velocity stack. Quote Link to comment
Rat-a-tat-Dat Posted July 12, 2019 Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 Genius, is that exhaust tubing? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2019 Yup. Two inch (1 7/8") inside diameter will just fit the inlets on the R-1 carbs. Took all of 5 min each to hammer these into this shape. This weekend I'll saw them off and repeat to make 4 of them. I'd like to keep this zx air filter box but room for it is tight. Make a plate from an old hood sheet metal and use a 2" hole saw. Poke these in from the inside and tack in place. Has to fit between the carbs and the strut tower. At worst I can make a something just big enough to sandwich that oval K&N filter but that filter box entire, would look great and I could duct cold air to it. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2019 Want to do this right but if I hurry..... so I'm making a small air box that will contain that zx air filter and will improve on it later. I'm holding it together so just use your imagination. The flairs will have to be flush or the top will cover too closely. I made the top and bottom about 1/4" larger and will try to bend a lip up all around to help contain the filter. 2 Quote Link to comment
vicdat Posted July 18, 2019 Report Share Posted July 18, 2019 K&N offers its own filter cleaner and oiler in one convenient package (about $15.00) called "Supercharger". The cleaner is similar to 409 or Awesome...I wouldn't use WD-40. On my (Celica) i clean it every other oil change. These last a loooong time... is best to use the K&N stuff. Vicdat 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 I was looking at it and the front is packed solid with dirt. The WD-40 was in jest. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 Well, not great looking but it keeps the dirt out and didn't wreck the sound. Used a liquid citrus cleaner, $4 for a big spray bottle. Shit cleans your hands like fast orange only not gritty. Rinsed with water till the milky color disappears. Dried in the sun then wet the filter with WD-40 which is just mineral oil. Quote Link to comment
john510 Posted July 21, 2019 Report Share Posted July 21, 2019 On 7/18/2019 at 6:21 PM, datzenmike said: I was looking at it and the front is packed solid with dirt. The WD-40 was in jest. I figured you had to kidding about cleaning that filter with WD-40.Now are you kidding about using WD-40 for the filter instead of the K&N filter oil ? Pry your wallet open and pay for the right stuff.A can of K&N filter oil will last for years.I've got K&N filters in 3 cars and 2 quads and i'm going on 5 years out of the same can. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2019 I cleaned it with a citrus de-greaser and oiled it with WD-40. For $18 for the kit I would have just got a new paper filter. It's really not important on something that I would never have bought anyway. K&N overpriced and over hyped. It's just an air filter. Quote Link to comment
john510 Posted July 21, 2019 Report Share Posted July 21, 2019 Won't touch a Fram oil filter but will spray WD-40 on a high quality air filter that never needs replacing,got it. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2019 Cost does not infer extra quality. Eighty-six bucks for what amounts to thin oiled cotton gauze sandwiched between fly screen? Marketing genius on their part that you have to buy their cleaner and oil to boot! Many a truth is spoken in jest. It was free inside a free air filter housing I had in storage so long I don't remember where I got it... and I'm e-mailing WD with another use for their product. Quote Link to comment
vicdat Posted July 25, 2019 Report Share Posted July 25, 2019 Considering that filter was old and crusty when you got it - you did the right thing. The cleaner that KN supplies is probably similar to citrus cleaner (which probably got it looking nice and clean). The WD is a personal choice and if its mostly min oil it should be fine. If this works decent then you ll never need to replace it. I remember the old Uni-Filters for my old Yamaha 360 Enduro were foam-type and I cleaned them your way for decades.... Vicdat 610 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2019 Back in the 50s the air filter housing has engine oil in a small puddle in the bottom. It was baffled so the air had to travel down towards the oil then make a sharp turn. Dirt would keep traveling straight and stick in the oil. First thing I ever did in auto shop was clean one. The baffles are razor sharp. Quote Link to comment
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