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My '76 710 Goon


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#601 datzenmike

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 03:58 PM

Thanks to PB these pictures were scrapped. So here they are again and some updates...

 

Going to try something. R-1 carb steel intake. Don't have shield gas and would rather TIG weld aluminum. But that's in the future. So right now trying it in something I can do... think I can do.
 
Cut the flange of a '75-'77 L20B intake, the ones that are co-joined to the exhaust and pretty much the most useless intake around. Transferred the shape to steel
 
jEGT9HQ.jpg
 
Drilled/bored to 1 5/8" so that a 1.5" exhaust pipe will fit. Didn't know if this would work on steel so went slow and squirted lots of water on the part while boring. Took about 45min for each hole using a POS $50 drill press.
 
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Had some 1 1/2" muffler pipe laying around. Fits just right. Still needs the two bolt holes, will do tomorrow.
 
VyJXou1.jpg
 
Probably will set the pipe back 1/8" and weld from the head side so it's air tight, Grind down the lip plus some on the outer carb side for good measure.
 
My U67 head has 1.375" ports that I gasket matched last spring for Canby trip but will have to be expanded again to 1.5". This will allow for any discrepancy/misalignment  in my drilling too.
 
Still have to figure out the pipe lengths and any bends yet.
 
When complete, sand down and silver/aluminum paint and it will look fine.

 
 

Got a '74 as well but haven't done as much with it.
 
Working on a way to bend those two inner short lengths of 1.5" pipe so they will align with the R1 carbs
 
.....O O.......O  O..... L head intake ports
 
 
....O....O....O....O.... R-1 carbs
 
 
The outer tubes are almost straight and close to lining up. The inner two have to bend slightly inward go a few inched then reverse bent to straighten again. I figure two 20 degree bends would do it.

 
 
Tried welding these together months ago but dismal failure. (just didn't have the skills) Tries again and it seemed to fall together. Cut up enough for two sets of the double bend tubes tacked together and welded them...


3mQfCkJ.jpg
 
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The end result was.... ok They are now coated with dull gray rust paint and drying. The plan is to remove the paint on the head side when I weld them to the flanges rather than trying to paint into all the hard to reach spots when together..

 
DKGpk24.jpg


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#602 datzenmike

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Posted 16 September 2017 - 07:03 PM

Alright... take two.

 

It was good practice but they were not good enough. Got some more pipe... thicker pipe that doesn't blow holes in as fast. Did a much better job with the miter saw and checking cut angles before welding so all the bends are in the same plane. Wend down several dead ends, tried a few things that didn't work looking for the one that did. It's all in the details.

 

 

I think Rory threw this U67 head at me years ago at Canby. I guess he didn't want to pack it home with him. It's invaluable for mocking up an intake...

 

7orCfFs.jpg

 

 

Keep in mind the pipes are not yet welded to the flanges on the head yet.

 

5qsSAeW.jpg

 

I want to make some measurements in the 710 first. Maybe tilt everything up slightly before finally tightening them on with the wire feed wrench.

.


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#603 datsunfreak

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 04:09 PM

I have to ask, though. Why?


It's your car, just don't ruin it.


This seems like an elaborate ploy to get me to say "I like the D".


#604 datzenmike

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 08:04 PM

Why R1s? There's a whole post on them. http://community.rat...-lots-of-pics/ Poor man's mikunis or weber side drafts.

 

Thought I would try it, wanted to make my own manifold. I love making shit, that it works afterwards is even better.


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#605 datzenmike

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Posted 22 September 2017 - 06:27 PM

YNvfspL.jpg

 

Second attempt. Using 1 1/2" outer tubing I salvaged from a demolition. Did some measurements in the car tilted them up and leveled them in place and tacked them. Then went to town with the welder. Had to turn the heat up on the 1/2" flanges.

 

Tomorrow I'll assemble fully to the mock up U67 head...

 

 

and here it is...

 

LKRqT0r.jpg


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#606 datzenmike

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Posted 21 January 2018 - 12:46 PM

Well I finally have my full HIDs working at last. All I really needed were the projector 5 3/4" reflectors from Dapper Lighting. When I got them, one side refused to work.The bulbs and ballasts are cheap and easily found on Amazon. The new ballast cost just under $12 CDN which says a lot about how much I paid for what I got from Dapper Lighting. (well live and learn from my mistake) Two complete ballasts, bulbs and wiring, everything but the reflectors was $69 CDN.!! So I bought two more Ballasts only, for $23 so I could use then as high beams. and I have one complete spare left over.

 

I have to figure out a way to have the outer low beams and the inner high beams on at the same time when the signal selects high beams. Right now when switching, the outer ones go off, but the high beams take 5 seconds to get full bright. I imagine 4 X H11 HIDs should light up the road at night


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#607 datzenmike

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 02:38 PM

Over thought this. Turns out all I had to do was ground one wire and low beams stay on at all times the lighting switch is on. Switch on the highs and they are simply added on. The hi beams do not have the cut off that the lows have.

 

d4s4ieP.jpg

 

edit

 

Well after dark I took for a drive. Amazingly bright on high beams. It takes a while to get up to full bright and this is why I changed the wiring to keep the low beams on with the highs or it would suddenly go dark till they warmed up. The good is that once warmed up they start at full brightness. The new low beam bulbs need to be aimed as I think the cut off is now too high for my liking. Also the high beam conversions have a slight green tinge to them compared to the original low beam bulbs. I ordered 6K bulbs but maybe 5K would have been better.


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#608 David lo pan 2

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 06:42 AM

nice manifold. do you plan on adding a couple of nipples for dizzy advance? and possible brake booster? not sure if 710 has brake booster.

#609 datzenmike

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Posted 05 February 2018 - 07:35 AM

I learned many ways of now NOT to do it. Really need to set up TIG welding. I would like to have done it in aluminum.

 

The jury is still out on that. Probably will drill and tap the flanges and screw in fittings. The problem is that this will then be manifold vacuum advance and the distributor is built for ported. 


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#610 datzenmike

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Posted 25 February 2018 - 02:34 PM

Supposed to snow this w/e but sun and blue sky with some cloud, mild. So went to wrecking yard recently and got 4 'new' tires. Handkook P195/60R14s. Harder to find 14s  these days. I guess a car came in with new shoes on it. I checked the manufacture year... 2016 on all four and the same week too. Still have the nubs on the road side tread. Supposed to be all season touring tire but reviews say rubbish in snow. Don't plan to drive in the winter anyway. Perfect storm of right time, right place and $40 each.
 
dAxcWs6.jpg

 

Years ago I got a GM rear view mirror with the two map reading lights underneath but it has a bad patch of mirror on it. Was only two wire so either wire it for the switches to work the lights or connect to the door switch not both. The stock mirror is too narrow and does not have the day/night capability. So recently found a similar one on a Buick but 3 wire. Spent an hour wiring it up and gluing the button on the glass for it. I looked at the auto darkening ones but they didn't have the map lights. Now have interior lamps when the door opens. The original has never worked.
 
h9UdGrN.jpg


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#611 Draker

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Posted 25 February 2018 - 10:00 PM

Auto darkening is fantastic!


View my 69 510 4dr Sedan - Build Thread
View my 72 1200 Sedan - Build Thread
View my 71 510 2dr Sedan - Coming soon.. ish

http://drakers.pl510.info

#612 datzenmike

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Posted 26 February 2018 - 06:10 AM

... and would have got one if they also had the map reading lamps, but they didn't. There was one for a Pathfinder with built in compass and w/e but it was huge and clunky and... no lamps.


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#613 Lockleaf

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Posted 27 February 2018 - 08:04 AM

Mike, check out mid to late 90s Chrysler products. Auto dimming, two map lights, no other features. Its discussed in my Half Pint wagon thread if you've any interest.

Possibly still to clunky for you, but it has the features list you describe.

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#614 datzenmike

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Posted 10 March 2018 - 07:05 PM

Chrysler, OK. 

 

 

Meanwhile, the weather is great this weekend. Got two wheels off and de-rimed....

 

J5IHz3Z.jpg

 

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I had the tires given to me years ago and they show a manufacture date of only a 9 so probably '99. Can't possibly be '09 or would say 09. The other says 00 so 2000. That makes them close to 20 years old. They are all weather checked and two were not holding air. Made this bead popper and used the car weight.

 

I pried one half off before realizing they are being scrapped so I cut them off. Cleaned one rim and removed the balance weights. Tomorrow is supposed to be even warmer. Have to clean the other rim and lever two tires onto them. With luck I can at lease get the other two rims off and get the old tires off. I'll post more pictures later..

 

 

 

.


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#615 LenRobertson

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Posted 11 March 2018 - 10:18 AM


 

 

 

 

 

 

I pried one half off before realizing they are being scrapped so I cut them off.

 

 

 

.

 

Do you have a good method for cutting tires off of wheels? Seems the few times I've tried it I run afoul of steel cord and give up. Chop saw? Propane weed burner torch? Or something even more loud and dangerous? :lol:

 

Len



#616 datzenmike

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Posted 11 March 2018 - 10:56 AM

Angle grinder with guard off and a cutting wheel. Pop the tire bead off the rim first and cut carefully.


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#617 LenRobertson

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Posted 11 March 2018 - 11:24 AM

Angle grinder with guard off and a cutting wheel. Pop the tire bead off the rim first and cut carefully.

 

Okay, that is great information. I thought of trying a cutoff wheel in my die grinder but it quit on me the last time I used it. My angle grinder is still working though. I have a hand bead breaker that takes care of that part of the operation. Last summer I tried to take a tire off a 14" steely with my hand tire irons and couldn't do it. I think I'm getting too weak to be messing with something like that. Even when I was younger and fighting a tire with hand irons I would think "Why am I doing this? The local garage has a machine for changing tires." I guess I enjoy the challenge or something.

 

Len



#618 datsunfreak

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Posted 11 March 2018 - 12:04 PM

"Why am I doing this? The local garage has a machine for changing tires." I guess I enjoy the challenge or something

 

Mike is Canadian. You have no excuse. 


It's your car, just don't ruin it.


This seems like an elaborate ploy to get me to say "I like the D".


#619 datzenmike

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Posted 11 March 2018 - 02:40 PM

I would guess well over 20 pried off and 16 pried on over the years. These will be the first ones cut off but all need the bead to be broken away from the rim. I could de-rim and put on a waiting tire in the time it takes to driver 5 miles into town and pay for them taken off, but they are my aluminum rims and I don't want them or the tires fucked up, and I want to clean and polish the rims anyway. One thing I can't do is balance them so that I will leave for the professionals. I like doing what I can myself.

 

So the new rubber has tire bead sealer on them. It's like liquid rubber and has to be peeled off. Caught in it is rust scale from whatever rims these were on. Took half an hour each for all four. Spent half an hour each in the sink cleaning the rim bead area so not wanting this shit in the way. Damn what a friggin' mess to get off.

 

Len it takes about two minutes to get a tire on the rim using Windex and detergent mix sprayed on and a large screwdriver. Way faster that taking them off.

 

So two to air up and drop off after work for balance and two for the dump. Have an extra hour of daylight now so will try to slowly get the last two ready during the week.   


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#620 LenRobertson

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Posted 12 March 2018 - 07:06 PM

Mike is Canadian. You have no excuse. 

 

I have a partial excuse. Although my dad was born in Missouri, when he was about 16 the family moved to Canada and he lived there until he was into his late 20s (then for some unknown reason most of them migrated to Spokane). So I may have a slight genetic imprint for being Canadian-like. Which I'm kind of proud of and explains some of my odder tendencies. :lol:

 

Len