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My '76 710 Goon


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#601 datzenmike

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Posted 10 September 2017 - 03:58 PM

Thanks to PB these pictures were scrapped. So here they are again and some updates...

 

Going to try something. R-1 carb steel intake. Don't have shield gas and would rather TIG weld aluminum. But that's in the future. So right now trying it in something I can do... think I can do.
 
Cut the flange of a '75-'77 L20B intake, the ones that are co-joined to the exhaust and pretty much the most useless intake around. Transferred the shape to steel
 
jEGT9HQ.jpg
 
Drilled/bored to 1 5/8" so that a 1.5" exhaust pipe will fit. Didn't know if this would work on steel so went slow and squirted lots of water on the part while boring. Took about 45min for each hole using a POS $50 drill press.
 
3wjJyCp.jpg
 
 
Had some 1 1/2" muffler pipe laying around. Fits just right. Still needs the two bolt holes, will do tomorrow.
 
VyJXou1.jpg
 
Probably will set the pipe back 1/8" and weld from the head side so it's air tight, Grind down the lip plus some on the outer carb side for good measure.
 
My U67 head has 1.375" ports that I gasket matched last spring for Canby trip but will have to be expanded again to 1.5". This will allow for any discrepancy/misalignment  in my drilling too.
 
Still have to figure out the pipe lengths and any bends yet.
 
When complete, sand down and silver/aluminum paint and it will look fine.

 
 

Got a '74 as well but haven't done as much with it.
 
Working on a way to bend those two inner short lengths of 1.5" pipe so they will align with the R1 carbs
 
.....O O.......O  O..... L head intake ports
 
 
....O....O....O....O.... R-1 carbs
 
 
The outer tubes are almost straight and close to lining up. The inner two have to bend slightly inward go a few inched then reverse bent to straighten again. I figure two 20 degree bends would do it.

 
 
Tried welding these together months ago but dismal failure. (just didn't have the skills) Tries again and it seemed to fall together. Cut up enough for two sets of the double bend tubes tacked together and welded them...


3mQfCkJ.jpg
 
NGeV1l2.jpg

 

The end result was.... ok They are now coated with dull gray rust paint and drying. The plan is to remove the paint on the head side when I weld them to the flanges rather than trying to paint into all the hard to reach spots when together..

 
DKGpk24.jpg


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#602 datzenmike

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Posted 16 September 2017 - 07:03 PM

Alright... take two.

 

It was good practice but they were not good enough. Got some more pipe... thicker pipe that doesn't blow holes in as fast. Did a much better job with the miter saw and checking cut angles before welding so all the bends are in the same plane. Wend down several dead ends, tried a few things that didn't work looking for the one that did. It's all in the details.

 

 

I think Rory threw this U67 head at me years ago at Canby. I guess he didn't want to pack it home with him. It's invaluable for mocking up an intake...

 

7orCfFs.jpg

 

 

Keep in mind the pipes are not yet welded to the flanges on the head yet.

 

5qsSAeW.jpg

 

I want to make some measurements in the 710 first. Maybe tilt everything up slightly before finally tightening them on with the wire feed wrench.

.


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#603 datsunfreak

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 04:09 PM

I have to ask, though. Why?


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#604 datzenmike

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 08:04 PM

Why R1s? There's a whole post on them. http://community.rat...-lots-of-pics/ Poor man's mikunis or weber side drafts.

 

Thought I would try it, wanted to make my own manifold. I love making shit, that it works afterwards is even better.


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#605 datzenmike

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Posted 22 September 2017 - 06:27 PM

YNvfspL.jpg

 

Second attempt. Using 1 1/2" outer tubing I salvaged from a demolition. Did some measurements in the car tilted them up and leveled them in place and tacked them. Then went to town with the welder. Had to turn the heat up on the 1/2" flanges.

 

Tomorrow I'll assemble fully to the mock up U67 head...

 

 

and here it is...

 

LKRqT0r.jpg


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#606 datzenmike

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Posted Today, 12:46 PM

Well I finally have my full HIDs working at last. All I really needed were the projector 5 3/4" reflectors from Dapper Lighting. When I got them, one side refused to work.The bulbs and ballasts are cheap and easily found on Amazon. The new ballast cost just under $12 CDN which says a lot about how much I paid for what I got from Dapper Lighting. (well live and learn from my mistake) Two complete ballasts, bulbs and wiring, everything but the reflectors was $69 CDN.!! So I bought two more Ballasts only, for $23 so I could use then as high beams. and I have one complete spare left over.

 

I have to figure out a way to have the outer low beams and the inner high beams on at the same time when the signal selects high beams. Right now when switching, the outer ones go off, but the high beams take 5 seconds to get full bright. I imagine 4 X H11 HIDs should light up the road at night


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