My '76 710 Goon

[datzenmike]

No, not ever a dogleg. :lol:

 

Yes the 71B 5 speed fits just fine. The cross member needs mods.

 

The 710 automatic  is 31.5" long

The 710 stock 4 speed is 26" long

 

The FS5W71B 5 speeds from the following cars and trucks are 31.5" long, so all you need is a 710 automatic driveshaft.

 

'77-'78 280z

'79-'83 280zx non turbo

'77-'79 620

'80 720 2wd (check length)

'78-'80 810

'81-'84 Maxima

[datzenmike]

Oil cooler project.
 

 
Had to cut the correct threads bolt to length and drill a hole in the top for 1/8" NPT. Then a larger hole up the length for the oil to flow. Then cross holes to feed the oil into banjo fittings.
 



Tap 1/8 NPT 27 TPI for new temp gauge.





New sensor gets hot oil directly from the pump as it exits towards the oil cooler. The same bolt is used for the return and will have the oil pressure sender in it. This oil enters the oil filter and will read slightly higher than the stock location. 

 

What I have is the oil cooler plumbing from an '82 280zx The lines and the aluminum cooler itself are rubbish but the casting that bolts to the block is all I want. I have the oil cooler from a ford truck that mounts in front of the rad and looks like an add-on  trans cooler. The plan is to mount behind the rad near the distributor. There's no shroud in the way and there's a pusher electric fan in front.

[datzenmike]

 

OK here's the casting that bolts on where the stock oil filter would go. It directs the oil out to the cooler then receives the cooled oil and sends it through the re-located filter and back into the block.

 

 

 

 

The bottom bolt screws into the block and is hollow. This is where the oil temp sender is. I figure that will be the hottest oil directly from the pump. The bolt on the right has the oil pressure sender, and is in the return line from the cooler but before the filter.

 

I'm locating the cooler to the side of the pusher fan and in the upper driver's side corner of the rad. Bought some fittings that will take 1/2" hose same as what will fit on the oil filter end. As to the hose, 300 PSI and petroleum rated but just under $4 a foot. Two 5 foot lengths will get me through the rad support and down along the front of the cross member and up to the filter. But I think I'll make a hard line out of 1/2 copper tubing and just use the hose and gear clamps for joining all the ends.

 

Do I need an oil cooler? No. But on my holidays there are several times where it's either quite warm or I'm climbing a mountain at full throttle in fourth for 15 min. Or both. Last year I had to pull over and let the engine temp go down.

 

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[datzenmike]

 

 

OK oil cooler (from an F350 diesel?) installed in front of rad. Air flow should cool it and when extra hot there is a puller fan mounted on the other side. I used 250 PSI petroleum rated hose and wrapped the two lines with 3/4"split harness covering to prevent chaffing. Runs OK without leaks and down 1/2 Qt from filling the lines and cooler. Wired two sensors up using female terminals covered in shrink wrap and run the wires into the cabin. The two existing gauges are from a 720 4x4 (volt and oil pressure) the new digital ones fit right in the 720 holder. Oil Pressure and oil temp. (I have a digital volt gauge but have to find somewhere to mount it)..... and run out of steam. Just needs the power and ground from the old gauges and the two sensor inputs wired up. Tomorrow.

[datzenmike]

Well the clutch master went dry on me the last week, I refilled it but it was dry at work today. I topped it up but takes two pumps to get in and out of gear. Limp home, slave is dripping. No rebuild kits, anywhere. Have a 'new' Doorman? one coming in Monday. Will take the original one out tomorrow and take apart and maybe bike into town and see if any 3/4 wheel cylinder repair kits will fit. Nissan said no. I did get the last repair kit there 15 years ago... it was $12 and had everything, dust boot, spring, piston, new bleeder and rubber cover.... basically everything but the casting and push rod.

 

Well, better now than half way to Canby right?

[datzenmike]

.... and was in town on another matter and the part (apparently) was ordered early enough that it was in after all. I took it apart enough to see that it was assembled with hydraulic fluid and not going to start work dry. So fit it on, opened the bleeder, and filled the reservoir, and the damn thing bled itself dry before I could get back under. Closed the bleeder this time and refilled the reservoir then opened and it and out it came... good to go.

 

What I was trying to do in town was find a 3/4" rubber seal to replace the one in the slave. It's got a hole in the center that fits over the piston very much like a wheel cylinder. If I could just fine one that small it would be way cheaper than buying an entire slave. I bet a 3/4 master cylinder has one. 

 

 

 

 

This one fits but the bell end isn't a large a flair. (slave seal on left) So I guess it might work but...

 

[datzenmike]

Canby closing in.

 

Pulled the rear drums off and adjusted the shoes. They were new 2 or 3 years ago. One side looked like they may have been wet and dried. Checked the brake master and the rears were empty. So just how long have I had no rear brakes??? Well I don't drive it much and then not that hard and have no idea. So two new wheel cylinders on order.

[datzenmike]

So days before leaving for Canby there is oily wetness on the cooler. Bent a U shape out of 1/2" copper pipe and packed extra hose clamps. If she blows or gets worse I'd put this by-pass in to get me home. Topped up oil 4 times maybe 1.5 qts. but over 2600 miles? Still wet but? I did go from Canby to Calgary before a top up. Maybe stopped?  I found another oil cooler and will replace it. Maybe a fitting, but I used Teflon tape. Maybe it will be obvious when off.

 

Oil temp gauge starts at 40C or 104F ran in the low 80s (176F) did hit 92C or 197F once in 90F weather climbing a hill. What I noticed was the oil temp always lagged behind engine temp rises. It went up with engine load but usually on the down hill side before the reading began rising. Kind of expected the oil temp to be constantly above engine temp but maybe just that once. You have to drive a long way before the oil gauge begins to rise above 40C.

 

Still have the stock temp gauge. Ran about 2/3 into the 'run range' and did go to 3/4 several times. Presumably the fans were on but unlike last year it never went higher. Maybe this helped the gas mileage, hotter engine?

 

28.5 US MPG average along the coast to Canby. Lowest was 25 MPG but did get 35 and 34s. Best mileage seemed to be in the mountains.

 

Had to learn how to drive the new tires.

 

Four HID headlamps really light up the road!!!!

 

Near Jasper saw three separate black bears, one with a cub and a cow moose on the side of the road... got a picture.  

[510freak]

I headed out east(sask) the weekend of Canby, It rained so much for so far,even tried to snow from Merritt to Kamloops, The way back,similar weather, Strathmore AB,it flash flooded the highway

 

Were those tacky tourists out of the vehicles getting pics,with the chicken wire highway fence protecting them.

 

 

Seen a wolf about a hr out of moose jaw on the way back, tons of gophers,live and not live

[datzenmike]

Yeah the Coquihalla great if you're in a hurry and the weather is good. 400-500 accidents per year. 3,000 - 4,500 ft elevation north of Merritt. I'd call it alpine.

 

Went to the 'yard' and found another identical oil cooler, but in a Chev truck. Put it on this morning and decreased all the crap that leaked off the rad.  Runs ok but time will tell. Needed two hose fittings. $7 fix.

[510freak]

It is, But some of the stunts drivers pull along there is crazy anytime of year.gotta be first, gotta be first.

[datzenmike]

I don't drive it, but when I did I notice every time there were 3-4 burned areas on the side of the roads where engines over heat and catch fire. Climbing for 5 miles at full throttle trying to keep up to 120+ is way different than full throttle on the level in Chilliwack for 15 seconds to pass someone. Before starting I check my gas, tire pressures, fan belts, top up the rad and oil and windshield washer if needed. Blanket and coat in the winter and water in the summer. It's no place to be complacent.

[datzenmike]

So I spent today making my shifter even shorter throw. Originally, I swapped an '85 diesel tail onto the zx 5 speed. This gave me a raised fulcrum point and with a longer bottom with the plastic cup and it shortened the throw. It was nice but I can go farther...
 

 
 
1/8" pilot hole then 23/64" for the pin hole...
 


Raised the fulcrum pin height 9/16" so cut 9/16" off one of the spare shifters laying around...

 

 

Don't laugh at the weld, it's just robust.

 

 

 

To get at the transmission to drill the holes, I unbolted it from the cross member and jacked it up into the cabin. Below is not where the shifter will be sitting but a few lower.

 

Finished...

 

 

 

I lengthened a spare shifter (above) that I had for this project but forgot it didn't have the proper bends in it to clear the hole in the floor. So after putting everything away I had to get it all out and cut the top off the original shift lever and weld it to the modified one. Works fine now and the first to second shift knob travel is 2 3/4" and the overall length stays the same. 

 

I've seen shortened shifters but if you have to lean forward to grip it I think it's a fail. You should comfortably be able to sit back and shift without moving your shoulder.

.
 

[datzenmike]

Well sometimes the battery seems low. No problems on holiday as I used her every day, but sit for a weekend and sometimes it's weak. Cleaned the battery cables and terminals and the starter lug. Two days ago it was pancake flat from sitting all week. Put the charger on and got it going 14.3 on the meter. Next day was down. So I pulled the battery cable off and put my test lamp between and it lit up. So something drawing with the key off.

 

Second fuse I pulled and the lamp went out. It's for the interior lamp and also goes to the turn signals. Interior lamp works fine when battery is charged. If a wire is touching something it isn't enough to blow the fuse. I checked the wiring diagram and the interior lamp... actually the driver's door switch has two switches. I took it out out and cleaned them both. Very rusty. One for the lamp and one to the ignition switch to a small switch that tells if the key is left in when the door opens. Now I remember this switch when I put another ignition switch in but not if it could be hooked up or even if I did hook it up. If it was touching something the fuse would blow.  Maybe the rust was conducting enough to light the test lamp?? but not enough to blow the fuse?

 

Well everything good so far. Just checked and the test lamp is out with key off and doors closed.

[datzenmike]

No problems with low battery so far.

 

The last couple of months, the odd time I stab the brakes there is a loud click from the front right side. If slowing for a stop and then you have to suddenly increase the brake pressure it will sometimes do it also. I was worried it was the tension rod as it positions the front wheel as it tries to resist going forward when braking but didn't see anything. So this morning I raised the car and took the wheel off. Everything looked ok till I spun the hub. Loud random clicks forward or back but not when turned slowly. Can't be the bearing as it's well smothered in grease and enclosed... the sound is a higher pitch click than the clunk. I looked with a flashlight and took the caliper off. I didn't see a stone fall out but may have missed it. Rotor spins quietly now. Maybe one of the pads, so I sparingly put some sealer on the contact points and assembled. Seems quiet now.

[datzenmike]

 So.... many years ago someone pestered me to buy a reground camshaft that they didn't want to take home from Canby. I think I'll do up a U67 head with it. Port the shit out of it, polish, maybe some unshrouding. Whatever. I have 2 spare ones and the time. See how it will go. Totally reversible I can just swap heads on and off. The lift is 0.480" 

 

The U67 I have has no rockers so I pulled a set off another engine and cleand them up and inspected them, glad I did. Had to pull the ones off my '79 engine than been sitting under the eves for 3-4 years. This is what happens when you don't change your oil enough and/or more likely are using today's crappy oils.

 

 

The top mirror shiny one is from the '79, the bottom is unknown. That mottling is missing metal. With the valve cover off the '79 head was spotlessly clean and sparkling. I found it in the woods in a tracked vehicle. Owner didn't know the last time it was run. Well someone looked after it.

 

 

 

The good rockers all had this very small divot across the width. You can't feel it and just barely see it.

 

 

1200 wet paper and about a minute of rocking it across the glass table top and it polished right out.

 

 

I measured the lash pads and they are 0.125" thick. By my measuring they need to be 0.285" thick to get the cam lobe up on the pad. About 0.110" thicker. How are they measured?

 

Valves still have to come out and be lapped and new oil seals put in. While out I can get at the bowl area below the seats. Another day.

 

 

 

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[datzenmike]

 

Had to modify an old C clamp. Valves and seats look good but very carboned up. Will begin cleaning.

[datzenmike]

 

 

Before and after valve unshrouding.

[Crashtd420]

I dont know how much it helps or not but when I did my head I also did the same thing to the spark plug hole.... 

I just smoothed out the transition so the end of the threaded part of the plug and the head surface matched, making sure not to leave exposed threads...

[datzenmike]

Good point! It's little things like this that add up and it's in the books on modifying the Datsun engines. Forgot about them. I sometimes forget how many sharp edges there are on these heads. I'm going to smooth everything and check the cc's and mill it if I have to. I'd like a modest compression increase.. The thickness suggests it has never been milled. I would love to know how to TIG weld. I see stuff on You Tube on how to use a stick or MIG welder to MIG. I would try to make this a closed chamber head or close to it.

[LenRobertson]

3 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Good point! It's little things like this that add up and it's in the books on modifying the Datsun engines. Forgot about them. I sometimes forget how many sharp edges there are on these heads. I'm going to smooth everything and check the cc's and mill it if I have to. I'd like a modest compression increase.. The thickness suggests it has never been milled. I would love to know how to TIG weld. I see stuff on You Tube on how to use a stick or MIG welder to MIG. I would try to make this a closed chamber head or close to it.

 

I feel kinda bad reading this. When you stopped by after Canby I meant to ask if you needed a closed chamber head but forgot all about it when you arrived and we started talking. I guess in theory a head can be mailed or shipped  but boxing one up for safe shipping would be kind of a pain and the shipping cost might be prohibitive. If you know anyone going through E WA to Seattle or Everett, Karen could take it to Ritzville where it could be picked up. PM me if you have any interest or ideas. I suspect it is more effort or expense than it is worth to get it to you but you can think about it.

 

If I'd been thinking the day you were here I'd have insisted you drive my 510 so you could critique my dubious clutch, stiff front springs, and lack of bump steer spacers. I always have these ideas when it is too late. Anyway, you would likely have told me I need to do a LOT of work on the 510 which I guess I already know.

 

Len

[datzenmike]

Driving around your town with no muffler was a hoot Len, it really was. Geez I haven't driven a 510 in 42 years! It was a '68 I bought for $50.

 

Here's me critiquing the suspension. Gee Len, this suspension is nice and firm and nicely matches the clutch!. Wuh? I SAID " THE SUSPENSION... IT'S NICE AND FIRM!!! (Oh well, I'll tell him when we get back to the house)

 

I'm going to build up this head and try it but leave my options open so I can simply swap my current U67 back on. I still have an L18SSS twin SU and intake and my R-1 carb and intake to fiddle with. Probably will use the built head as a test bed. Thanks for the offer len, maybe it's as simple as dropping by next year for breakfast... I'm buying, or was it your turn?  After all two heads are better than one.....

[LenRobertson]

12 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Driving around your town with no muffler was a hoot Len, it really was. Geez I haven't driven a 510 in 42 years! It was a '68 I bought for $50.

 

Here's me critiquing the suspension. Gee Len, this suspension is nice and firm and nicely matches the clutch!. Wuh? I SAID " THE SUSPENSION... IT'S NICE AND FIRM!!! (Oh well, I'll tell him when we get back to the house)

 

I'm going to build up this head and try it but leave my options open so I can simply swap my current U67 back on. I still have an L18SSS twin SU and intake and my R-1 carb and intake to fiddle with. Probably will use the built head as a test bed. Thanks for the offer len, maybe it's as simple as dropping by next year for breakfast... I'm buying, or was it your turn?  After all two heads are better than one.....

 

Thanks for a great laugh! Your accurate description of  my 510 noise struck me as really funny. I'm afraid to put on a decent muffler because then I'd have to listen to all the rattles.

 

At least nothing fell off. A few years ago I gave a guy a ride in the 200SX from the farm out to pick up a wheat truck. Everybody at the farm was giving him a bad time about the risk of his first SX ride. Once we set out he said he was kind of impressed by the SX (maybe it was more like "Not as bad as I expected"). But about 5 miles down the highway there was a bang and the SX got really loud. The rear muffler had rusted through at the front and was dragging on the asphalt. We turned up a side road and it fell off completely which saved having to wire it up off the ground.

 

Yeah, the head will no doubt still be here next year. And I'm sure it is my turn to buy breakfast.

 

Len

[datzenmike]

Good news and some not so good news.

 

Good

With a 5 speed and 205/60R14 tires and then a 4:11 differential my speedometer is about 10% out. To go 30 MPH I have to go about 33-34 judged by those neighborhood traffic radars. On mile markers I'm consistently 1/10 short. I'm running a 20 tooth Red gear and need a 22 Orange one to 'slow it down'.

 

 

 

Years ago I tried 'gluing' two part gears of 11 teeth together but the pinion off set was not enough and it was crushed. Enter Charlie69. He heard about this and rustled up an Orange gear and sent it and the proper pinion to off set it and I went to work on it. It was literally just the gear and I had to sacrifice a Blue gear to get the spindle to use with it. The spindle end is splined like a wheel lug in an axle. I hammered it carefully into the tight hole and voila!

 

22 and a 21 tooth gear that came on the pinion.

 

The gear spindle hole was part filled with plastic so a W drill was perfect for sizing it.

 

Spindle spline into the gear.

 

Used the drill PRESS

 

 

Pop the roll pin out and swap the spindles.

 

Fully assembled

 

Installed it yesterday evening and only went 5 blocks because transmission oil is low. Had to drain half a liter of oil out the pinion hole*. I would say the speedometer is a bit sluggish which is good. I need to get out on the highway.

 

Again, thanks Charlie for all the bother and expense.

 

* this is the GM Delco Synchromesh Transmission Oil  I rave about. Well it came out looking brown almost like brewed coffee wtf? So today I got a couple of liters and was preparing to change it out. Pulled the magnetic drain bung and The Bad...

 

Bad

On the bung is a small strip of metal maybe an outer bearing cage and some filings.  The magnet was cleaned maybe three years ago, maybe two. So everything is since then. It ran good for the 1,600 mile holiday Canby trip. There was a slight, very slight groan sound when at cruise and the engine isn't pulling or slowing down. Same as the year before so not worried. It's an old transmission bound to be whiny.  

 

 

No aluminum particles, at least, but something steel is coming apart. My insurance runs out in a week so it's coming off the road anyway. I'll pull it maybe this long weekend here and take the front case off. Hopefully it's the front counter bearing. I have one of those. As back up I have an '81 zx 5 speed, the ones with close ratio and monster over drive. Not really liking the idea of a 25% OD I like the 13% I have and will 4.11s I can drive around town in 5th and it climbs hills easily.

 

This is the one year only zx mid ratio 5 speed that I put an '85 diesel tail case on to get the reverse check sleeve and the taller shifter 'ears' on it. I found this transmission in a scrap metal yard and put in my 620. It's been across Canada a half dozen times and found it's way into my 710. Lord knows the miles on it and it'a always been a faithful good working transmission. I'd like to keep it.

.

[datzenmike]

 Have the front and rear cases off and for the life of me I can't find anything wrong. All bearings are smooth turning and have their cages and balls. No shiny wear spots, nothing loose. Then it hit me what's missing.

 

 

Apparently, nothing is really wrong. I got this off a spare trans and will install it tomorrow. Also have a new in the box Natchi Jap made 56mm counter bearing and an output seal laying around collecting dust.

 

I have a couple of things I'd like to try and now with the mid ratio out, I have to count some teeth.

 

'81 zx with the insane 25% OD........ Never had one before but don't like the thought of not using 5th in town as much as I do now. Basically I'd have a 4 speed again. Too bad. Would like to know if it runs well enough to maybe sell.

 

'85 S12 CA18ET 5 speed. Front case ( CA not needed) traded for a KA head (the idiot, but he probably is thinking the same thing) It's a wide ratio to rev the turbo faster but has the 71C synchros, shift forks are massive, 62mm counter gear. This is almost a 71C but for the shifter. Looks like almost 19% over drive. Still too high it would negate the 4.11 swap.

 

Found a spare mid ratio minus the cases. Same gearing as my mid. Same input ratio tooth count and same 5th gear teeth count. Have no idea where this came from, didn't know I had it.

 

Guess I'll stick with the '79 for now. Both mid ratio transmissions have a staked but loose mainshaft nut. These are torqued to over 100 ft lbs! I'm going to pry up the stake and tighten it some before putting together again.

 

 

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