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My '76 710 Goon


datzenmike

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Ok muffler is definitely holed by the backfire. Louder but not ricer. I bought a new muffler for $5 at a yard sale years ago that never got on my 620. If  I'm 1 1/2" pipe then the muffler is 1 5/8 or 1 3/4", don'r care it goes on in the spring. No tail pipe.

 

I have several Z24 coils and they are an exact match to this '79 EI coil I have on it.

 

Replaced coil, plus re positioned the high tension nipple on the coil end. Seems loose so now the wire can be pushed down in more firmly. And I can't explain how the spark was arching so far down to the - terminal.

 

Once off the cause is obvious. There is a crack beside the negative terminal post. Hard to see but I got the light just right. Spark jumps out the crack and burned a small hole in the rubber cap covering the terminal and the wires. Electricity will always find the easiest path to ground. The trick is to make that so difficult that the plug is the easy path.

 

coil%20problems%20710%20002.jpg

 

Some of that 'crack' might actually be just the burn path in the Bakelite from the arc. It used to be called carbon tracking. Once the path is established it becomes a conductor. There is a pin hole there but hard to see, and my camera seems to not like macro.

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Weighed car at the land fill today. '76 goon, zx 5 speed, L16 exhaust manifold, '79 L20B intake, bumpers on, Subaru front buckets, S110 factory mags, '84 Maxima struts and brakes. 3/4 tank of gas.

 

1330 Kg. In American that's 2,926 pounds. I'm close to 200 pounds so 2,726 pounds.

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Replacing the coil has removed a slight off idle stutter so the car is running better and better. Cold weather has shown up several problems that were not too apparent in the summer. I have the ATC (automatic temperature control) connected to provide exhaust warmed air to the air filter. This prevents carb icing. Choke was adjusted richer and this helped with the cold warm up period. Coil changed removed the odd stutter and backfire. Windshield squirters adjusted and plastic hoses replaced.

 

To do is repair the rear window defogger. Only 3 of the horizontal heater wires are warming up. It is helpful that they are at eye height and it removes frost (sort of) but it could be much better. This is likely from years of people scraping the frost off the inside of the glass with scrapers.

 

Electric heated seats in the morning is..... alright.   

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well went out yesterday and no dash/tail lights... in the dark. Rubbed the fuses to make better contact, no dice. Touched a quarter across them until they came on to find the fuse. Wiggled it and they were fine. Need tail lights in the dark.

 

Ohh noooooooos .... no turn signals on way to work and engine won't go near idle.

 

After work found another 'loose' fuse.... probably from wiggling them to get the dash lights on. All good but still no idle bellow 1,500 on way home.

 

At home found vacuum hose off for the air filter. Made a new one, Tested it and idled perfectly. 

 

 

 

Funny how little things happen.

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Not in January!!!

 

But yes. I may have to lift the box away and suspend it in a bowl of vinegar, lemon juice and salt. I don't think the wiring plugs into them like a 510 or 620. I think the wires go right to the fuse clips.

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 I don't think the wiring plugs into them like a 510 or 620. I think the wires go right to the fuse clips.

 

Only the 510 and Z will unplug. The 610/710/B210 fuse box is hard wired.  :blush:

 

On my 610 and B210 we just suspended it in a tupperware container full of vinegar.

 

Never heard of using salt or lemon juice, though...

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Last night tried experiment. Tarnished copper bottom pan. Lemon juice rubbed with finger, nothing happened, perhaps it takes all night soaking.

 

Tried another spot with juice and sprinkled with salt, rubbed lightly with finger. HOLY SHIT!!! Immediately it shone like a new penny!!!! Dampened tea towel corner with lemon juice and liberally applied table salt and wiped the pan clean in 10 seconds.

 

Suggest full strength lemon juice salt and clean with old tooth brush. Maybe warm the juice in microwave first to speed up the reaction?

 

 

I thought they were the same acid but no.

 

Lemon...... citric acid ... 5-6%

Vinegar.... ascetic acid  ... 5-7%

 

 

Haven't tried vinegar and salt but I know lemon juice and salt really works and faster than over night.

 

This was on copper so brass may be slower.

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If rubbing you're basically wetland ingredients with the salt. I know to clean a bong it's rubbing alcohol and salt and swirl that shit around so basically the same concept.

 

Just that salt is less.... gritty I think is the word I'm looking for? No, abrasive.

 

Try soaking with just salt and lemon juice and see what happens maybe?

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I rubbed the lemon juice and nothing happened. With salt it sort of activated the lemon juice. I'm pretty sure the salt didn't act like an abrasive as I very lightly rubbed it with a finger. Try it yourself with a penny or copper pipe. I was impressed.

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  • 1 month later...

struts%20bump%20steer.jpg

 

Tomorrow, weather willing, I'm taking the front right wheel off to see if my Maxima caliper is interfering with the steering knuckle. I have slight braking vibration since last summer and this winter there is a slight pull to the left like the right isn't doing it's share of braking.

 

Eventually I will swap struts side to side to move them forward out of the way but while they are off I thought I would make some bump steer spacers and have them ready. I figure I will make extras just in case. Six a side will give me 1.5" of choice. I made them larger than those CNC ones.

 

So with some reading I see there are many height differences but no mention of how much you need. 1/2" 1" more? It's more or less... if lowered you need them, but nothing about how the size is determined. How much bump steer do you really need??? No two cars are lowered the same amount so shouldn't the spacers reflect this??

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Well I should imagine the steering components are laid out horizontally so that bumps have minimal effect. When the vehicle is lowered the LCA are tilted upward and when further moved upward by a bump will effectively shorten or pull the tie rod ends inward toeing out the tire or tires. Would I be right in thinking that restoring the LCAs to their original positions is the point of the spacers?

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The spindle angle is fixed at 10 degrees for just about every Datsun strut but the earlier Z car and can't be changed other than camber plate 'adjustments'. I have '84 Maxima struts. 

 

Yes.  The LCA tilts up as the cross member goes down when lowered. As the steering knuckle is attached to the outer end of the LCA it angles upward also swinging in an arc. The more they tilt up the more the distance between the two LCA outer ends shortens. Doesn't take much to draw both wheels inward, at the back, causing a toe out and I had to re-align my front end. I notice the steering wheel does pull slightly when traveling over a bump and more so when only one wheel is bumped. It';s not the end of the world but I plan to swap my struts side to side and would like to correct this at the same time.

 

I guess I will have to do another alignment.

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You would have increasing positive camber once the tie rod passes horizontal traveling upward on a bump anyway. A below horizontal swing of the LCA  would tend towards negative camber. As bumps or dips in the pavement are roughly equal in frequency I would think a neutral horizontal point would be best. A car will still roll straight even with increasing or decreasing camber.

 

I'm more concerned with the steering. A bump or dip in the road will toe the tire or tires outward. If both tires equally it should even out, but if the bump is on one wheel it will toe out on that side tending to pull slightly, hence the term 'bump steer'.

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