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#1 Nicholas7620

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 05:44 AM

Yesterday. I was driving my '76 B210 at night, when suddenly my headlights stopped working. :o

Crap!!! and poop :poop:

I drove home with my parking lights. I have dash lights, tail lights, blinkers, 4-way flashers, heater everything else was working.

When I got home I pulled out my headlight fuse and it was melted. I replace the burned 15A fuse with a new one and tried the lights nothing. Now what? It's time to learn how to trouble shoot and learn something new.

I'm not sure what to do. In the daylight, I will plug and unplug lights, look for loose wires, dirty cracked, broken wires and take PICs to post. I've already read a few posts on fusible links, relays, switched and unswitched. I don't have a multimeter.

I'm going to make coffee, take a few PICs and post. Be back with PICs.

#2 datzenmike

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 06:05 AM

I had a new '76 in the day. The latest thing were halogen lights so I got a set. I do remember blowing the fuse because they draw more power, I guess. Extremely scary to have the lights suddenly just go out on a back road with no street lights. I quickly hit the 4 way flashers and got stopped. I know you aren't supposed to do this but I went up 5 amps in fuse size. Like from 10 to 15 or 15 to 20 and that fixed it. It was a new car with new wiring so had no problems. Today I would use the headlight switch to trigger a relay to send power through larger gauge wires that have their own fuse for each side.
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#3 Nicholas7620

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 07:20 AM

I had a new '76 in the day. The latest thing were halogen lights so I got a set. I do remember blowing the fuse because they draw more power, I guess. Extremely scary to have the lights suddenly just go out on a back road with no street lights. I quickly hit the 4 way flashers and got stopped. I know you aren't supposed to do this but I went up 5 amps in fuse size. Like from 10 to 15 or 15 to 20 and that fixed it. It was a new car with new wiring so had no problems. Today I would use the headlight switch to trigger a relay to send power through larger gauge wires that have their own fuse for each side.


I just came back with PIC's. Thanks for your great answer. I'll study how to follow your suggestion for today. Today I would use the headlight switch to trigger a relay to send power through larger gauge wires that have their own fuse for each side.

I also have a pesky problem with a "BRAKE LIGHT" on the DASH always staying lit up although the E-brake is down and the brakes are new. I've ignored it for years because nothing was broke "don't fix it". I sure would like to turn it off.


Here are PICs in order taken.

My burned out fuse and new one. My collection of fuses and my CAT Jasmine being curious.
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#4 Nicholas7620

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 07:43 AM

Hey DatzenMike, everyone,

I talked to Napa "Albert". He thought increasing the 15A fuse to a 20A fuse would be OK.

But the better solution, as DatzenMike suggested, was to use a Universal Relay Switch to carry the electrical load instead of the headlight fuse clip, mainly because the fuse box is old and has higher resistance due to age and corrosion. How about a Vinegar bath to remove or eliminate corrosion and reduce resistance?

Evidently once the relay is activated the load to the fuse box is substantially reduced and there is no need to go to a higher fuse. Napa "Albert" suggested following DatzenMike's advice, but Albert thinks there is no need to go to a heavier gauge wire and install additional fuses. Albert thinks the existing wire is adequate and installing heavier gauge wire and fuses would be over-safe but OK to do, but I like over-safe. :P :D

I'd like to know if the fuse box clip for the headlight is already toasted because when I put in a new 15A fuse in the clip I get no headlights at all. :( :rolleyes:

#5 Nicholas7620

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 08:19 AM

Hey DatzenMike, everyone,

Does anyone have an idea or opinion why my brake light in my instrument panel stays on constantly. The instrument panel, brake light has been on, like this, for over 10 years. :o :rolleyes:

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I've ignored it but I would like to turn it off.

#6 Nicholas7620

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 08:50 AM

Hey Everyone,

I lightly sanded my headlight fuse clip and made the copper/brass clip nice and shiny, AND when I put in a new 15A fuse, AND tried my headlights, THEY WORK. WOOO HOOOO! :D :) Yabadabah doooo!

I'll go for that Universal Relay solution, consider putting in heavier guage wire and additional fuses. I'll let the forum know.

I should sand and clean each fuse box clip. I took a closer look at my fuse box picture and several of my clips look dull and discolored.

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#7 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 10:45 AM

most poeple buy a H4 harness. it come with the relays and hook up at the starter/battery lug. 20 to 100$.

Make sure the wire isnt fryed under the fuse box.

This is a common NO-NO and I still see people running the H4 lights with the stock harness.

the ebrake? I put a rubber band around the handle, and the light goes off cause its pushed in all the way.
Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#8 zerow

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 11:21 AM

The ebrake switch appears to have found another ground, and that in turn illuminates the light. A quick check will be to disconnect the switch altogether, to rule out the switch itself. Light goes out, its the switch. Light stays on, its between the switch and the light, probably pinched under the carpet somewhere.
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I saw three of these parked outside the local Starbucks this morning, which tells me only one thing. There's too many self indulgent wieners in this city with too much bloody money. Now, if I was driving a 1973 610 four-door...
You would not be a self indulgent wiener, sir. You'd be a connoisseur.
Precisely. Champagne would fall from the heavens. Doors would open. Velvet ropes would part.
Drive a DATSUN, Then Decide.

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#9 Nicholas7620

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 02:48 PM

Howdy Hainz,Zerow,DatsunMike everyone,

Thank you for your brains ;) :D

I took more PICs,here they are in the order taken. NAPA provided the following parts.

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The relay switch is a five pin and rated 30A, it's a Bosch. I'm not sure if you can read the printing.

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Hey Hainz, My E-Brake is stick shaped with a button on the end, I'm confused about the rubber band trick. :blink: I have lots of rubber bands; there's a nice red one next to my cat, Jasmine. ;) :D

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My E-Brake is stick shaped with a button on the end, I'm confused about the rubber band trick. :blink: I have lots of rubber bands; there's a nice red one next to my cat, Jasmine. See previously posted PIC, for fun only :P ;) .

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Hey Zerow, I was planning on taking out the front seats to deep clean and install sound deadening floor mats. I'll be hunting :o for that e-brake switch. I think once I get the brake light to go away my dash board lights might be a little brighter. I like a bright dashboard at night. :D

Hey DatsunMike, I have two inline fuse holders on my shopping list for NAPA, evidently, I need another relay switch to run my HIGH Beams. What do you think?

This is all, slowly <_< starting to make sense, unfortunately, too slowly :D . I'm slowly understanding, whew thank you Ratsun and "NAPA Albert". Shouldn't a relay switch wire to my dimmer switch handle both HIGH and LOW beams? Or, doesn't it work out that way?

I do have heavier guage wire already in my inventory, saved from discarded appliances :P :D .

#10 datzenmike

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 06:24 PM

The brake warning light is there to warn of an imbalance in the hydraulic system possibly from a leak. (also if the hand brake is on) It's not helping if it's on all the time. You could unplug the hand brake to see if it goes out or unplug the hydraulic switch to do the same. I'd hate to think you've been driving with only the front brakes doing all the work!!! for ten years. :lol:


Run thicker wires to and from the headlights and to ground. All parts of an electrical circuit carry the same amount of amps so the ground side must be heavier gauge too. Why? the halogen need more power and older wires will restrict this and the lights won't be as bright as they can be.
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#11 Nicholas7620

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 09:39 PM

Hey DatzenMike,

Thanks for the TIP

I'll bet it's the hydraulic imbalance warning light. I drove for years with leaking brake fluid. I had a hydraulic imbalance problem :P :D but I was in denial. :blink: :P :D

Every two weeks or so I would top off the brake fluid reservoir. I would buy two 32oz bottles of brake fluid at a time, more when it was on sale. :o It was cheaper than having my brakes done by an auto repair shop. This went on for years. I still have a couple of 32 oz bottles lying around. :D

There was no Ratsun forum back in the day. :( When I finally did have my brakes done the repair shop couldn't or didn't know how to reset the hydraulic imbalance warning light. :blink: They wanted to charge me open shop time to find the warning light problem. No thanks, No way! :o They overcharged me enough! :angry:

I'm looking forward to finding my hydraulic imbalance warning light :) and resetting it. My B210 currently doesn't have any leaks. :P :D

Thanks again, Best,

#12 zerow

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Posted 04 September 2010 - 08:18 AM

Hey Nicholas7620,

Datzenmike mentioned the hydraulic imbalance light...IIRC, the "sensor" is in one of two places, either on the cap itself (for low brake fluid) or below the master cylinder, on the proportioning set for all four brake lines. Use some light grit sandpaper to clean the sensor contact and the inside of the wire connector. It can't hurt. The switch for the ebrake handle will be right underneath the center pull assembly. Nissan was notorious for having that style with a little extra wire, and the ratchet assembly would catch and rub some of the wire raw, and the newly exposed wire would eventually get pinched into the frame of the car, giving constant ground. Either way, look for exposed wire(s) and it will point to the ground problem, and turn off your light :)
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I saw three of these parked outside the local Starbucks this morning, which tells me only one thing. There's too many self indulgent wieners in this city with too much bloody money. Now, if I was driving a 1973 610 four-door...
You would not be a self indulgent wiener, sir. You'd be a connoisseur.
Precisely. Champagne would fall from the heavens. Doors would open. Velvet ropes would part.
Drive a DATSUN, Then Decide.

My Project
How To: SU Air Cleaners
How To: L4N71B into Early 10 Series
How To: 610 Heater Box Rebuild

#13 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 04 September 2010 - 02:53 PM

read this

You just need the 2 relay kit. one is for the low beam 2nd relay is for the other element on side the same lamp

http://www.4crawler....#OnLineOrdering

its a plug in sytem. all you use is the old plug in to the lamp on passemger side. that will now be used a s a trigger
simple

The Napa guy should have told you. He isnt that good it seems like to me.
Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#14 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 04 September 2010 - 02:54 PM

PS these are made in China but i had good luck with them . U can see if the Bosche relays fit in there
Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#15 Nicholas7620

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Posted 07 September 2010 - 07:26 PM

Hey Hainz,Zerow,DatsunMike everyone,

Hope you had an Excellent Labor Day Weekend :cool: !

I've accumulated the following parts, two inline fuses, two 5 pin, 30A Square Block "Thingies" :rolleyes: and two wire assemblies.

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"Napa" Albert and I are tackling the Headlight problem Thursday AM, We are also attempting to solve both the Hydraulic imbalance problem or the E brake light problem.

Right now I'm trying to educate myself as much a possible before Thursday so I'm not totally ignorant and letting Albert do all the work.

I appreciate very much the tips I'm receiving :D . Thank you. :thumbup:

Hainz Thanks for the link. I'm reading the web pages right now. :D


Best,

#16 Nicholas7620

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Posted 08 September 2010 - 10:26 AM

It's Wednesday, I decided to find the e-brake switch and disconnect the switch to see if my dash board brake light would go out. The switch was where Zerow said it was. I removed the e-brake cover and disconnected the spade connection. SEE PIC.

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I started up the "BEE", idling just under 1,000 RPM :D. Shucks, dash board brake light is still on.

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DATZEN MIKE suggested I look for the hydraulic imbalance switch. I think I found it in the middle of the engine compartment. I unplugged it. Hopefully, that was the hydraulic imbalance switch. Maybe not, I had both the e-brake switch disconnected and alleged imbalance switch and the dash board brake light stayed on. :poop:

I'm thinking maybe the imbalance switch could be stuck in the on position, I had a leaky brake on the front passenger side for many years.

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I'm going out to remove the "alleged" hydraulic imbalance switch and take a PIC of the switch. I have a 77 B210 parts car maybe the imbalance switch from the 77 can be swapped into my Daily Driver B210. I think I'll drive around with both switches disconnected for the day and see if the dash board brake light goes out.

May the DATSUN force be with my B210 :P :D ;) .

#17 Nicholas7620

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Posted 08 September 2010 - 11:05 AM

I took out the alleged Hydraulic Imbalance Switch, it was dry and the pin at the end is springy.



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I'm going to put the alleged Hydraulic Imbalance Switch back and leave it disconnected. Maybe the dash board brake light with go out. ;) :D

#18 Nicholas7620

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Posted 08 September 2010 - 08:40 PM

Howdy all,

I spent the afternoon removing my seats looking for wires with the hope of extinguishing the dash board brake light indicator.

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I disconnected everything from the front seats back.
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I was looking for a pinched wire that was grounding out and causing the dash board brake light to stay lit. I didn't see any pinched wires. It must be below the dash.

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:o Yike, I discovered I have rust holes in my floor. Oh well, that going to be another thread. I don't want my dog to fall through the floor :P :D . I going to have to learn how to weld. :o :D
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After all that the pesky dash board brake light indicator is still on.

Tomorrow, my friend Albert and I are going to implement the recommendations I've received to strengthen the electrical system to run Halogen Light on a stock electrical harness.

#19 zerow

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 07:24 AM

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After all that the pesky dash board brake light indicator is still on.

The wire should be running among this harness on the passenger side.
No wires crimped at the bend under the seat rail floor reinforcement, bend up toward the dash, or in the rust of the floor?
Odd, to say the least. Under the dash is a good spot to look.
As for the switch, IIRC, the switch has its grounding pin at the back, like a door pin switch, or the trunk light switch. If in doubt of the switch, clean the contacts or change it out to one like the door or trunk switch.
This light problem is interesting - keep the updates coming.
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I saw three of these parked outside the local Starbucks this morning, which tells me only one thing. There's too many self indulgent wieners in this city with too much bloody money. Now, if I was driving a 1973 610 four-door...
You would not be a self indulgent wiener, sir. You'd be a connoisseur.
Precisely. Champagne would fall from the heavens. Doors would open. Velvet ropes would part.
Drive a DATSUN, Then Decide.

My Project
How To: SU Air Cleaners
How To: L4N71B into Early 10 Series
How To: 610 Heater Box Rebuild

#20 Nicholas7620

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 03:39 PM

Howdy Zerow, DatzenMike, Hainz everyone,

Here are the pictures of the relay installation in the order taken.

We have a circuit tester.

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We removed the protective electrical tape. We identified and isolated a Red/White line wire operated the High Beam and a Red/Black Line wire operated the low beam.

I turned on the low beam and "NAPA Albert" used the circuit tester to isolate and identify the Red/Black line wire as the low beam wire, and the same procedure to isolate and identify the Red/White line wire while I turned on and off the lights on the inside.

The green wires went to the headlight switch, the yellow wires received power from the orange wires and the battery. The red wires went to the headlight.

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This is the completed installation. The orange wires with inline 20 Amp fuses draw power from the positive side of the starter. The two blue wires are the ground attached to the body of my B210.


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