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510 Wagon lowering blocks


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So I have been hunting down a pair of lowering blocks for my 510. I have several sets of them already, but nothing complete(block and u-bolt sets).

 

Here is what I have found

 

I have a set of Toyota or Chevy 1" & 1.5" aluminum billet blocks with 5/8" center pins. The 5/8" center pin is the correct size for the Wagon Center Pins.

The leaf springs are approx 2.5" wide.

The axle tube is approx. 2.5" in Diameter and round so 2.5" ID round U-bolts are require and length will vary depend on lowering block thickness.

 

I have seen that Belltech has been used for lowering as per the parts section of this site. Part #6202. However the U-bolts are 3" ID U-bolts and are not ideally suitable for the 510 axle housing.

 

Anyone have a definitive this part # works with u-bolts etc on a 510 wagon? Id like to just order a 2" lowering block kit.

 

AutoZone and Kragen Auto Parts do not carry any kind of lowering blocks what-so-ever. Kragen can order by application, but as you may have guessed there is not a listing for a Datsun 510.

 

Thanks Guys for input

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I am also looking for a set of 2" lowering blocks........... but I'm not shure if the 510 and 710 can use the same blocks and U-bolts........ (Mike?... DB?)

 

 

I know wagdatto had 2.5" blocks with a slight angle,, and different leaf springs........... but the driveshaft tunnel needed to be cut to stop the "axle-slap"

 

 

It seems like most people don't have any issues with 2" blocks.............. right?................. [/endthreadjack}.... :D

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but I'm not shure if the 510 and 710 can use the same blocks and U-bolts........ (Mike?... DB?

 

I have a set of 71 521 rear spring set/ & trailer w/axle, Roadster, and a 82 Maxima wagon so I have some basis for comparison.

Both the 82 wagon and 71 521 springs are the 2.5" width and the axle for them as well as most other Datsun live axle applications is a H190 and the axle tubes are pretty much the same on all of them(axle width being the difference as well as brake hardware). I think its pretty safe to assume that if its stock Datsun its got a 5/8" center pin and 2.5" wide spring. Axle diameter may vary depending on the leaf mount situation. It appears Datsun/Fuji Heavy Industries used different mounting hardware which could possible change the ID of the U-bolt depending on application(I doubt it though). This is mostly speculation based on what I have measured on the 510 wagons, Roadsters, 810/910 wagons, and 521 pickups.

 

It would be nice to get a 2" lowering block with 2* of angle correction.

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I have 3" blocks on my goon. If you don't mind a little fabrication, I went down to my local steel place and got some 2x3" 1/4" square tubing cut about 5" long and drilled a hole in one side and welded a bolt on the other to make my drop blocks. Then I went to a spring place in town and had them bend me up some U bolts. I've run this settup for 8 years with no problems.

 

Then I de-arched the leafs, modified the front perch and made a tub for the differential but that's another story.

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I am using the bell tech ones and they work but not a perfect fit

...

 

 

Can you explain more in depth?

Do the U bolts not fit the axle and other parts? Do the Blocks not fit the spring, center pin, etc?

 

Just curious: If its just U-bolts that are the problem that is a pretty easy fix, but if the center pin or block size is an issue it might be worth hunting down a more proper fit.

 

I wish I knew what these billet aluminum blocks were from for sure. Id just order the blocks and buy the U-bolts I need separately and then Id know it fit for sure. Although I had considered doubling up the 1 and 1.5" blocks, but I cant see stacking blocks as being a good thing.

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I believe I am using the s10 block kit but have to look at the box again for the part #. the u bolts do work but are a tad wide but was able to fit over the axle and had to massage them in through the holes of the backing plate and the bolts are long but can be cut. the pin is a bit small but did keep axle from moving. not perfect but have not had issues for several years but have not seen any others that are any better fit wise or have heard of anything better. I have considered doing some rearched springs instead or if some blocks I saw in japan for trucks would work I may try those

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http://www.tickover.co.uk/shop/contents/en-uk/p616.html

 

Would these work? Because $20 seems like a hell of a deal.

 

 

That is 20 pounds British tender.

 

I dont know that they would work

 

Basically we are looking for:

 

2.5" wide block by what ever drop amount(fill in the blank sort of thing) with a 5/8" center pin

The U-bolt would ideally be 2.5" ID round(vs square) and I did not measure shank on the U-bolts, but it was a 17mm nut on each end so probably a 12mm or 1/2" bolt shank.

 

Finding blocks with a 5/8" center pin is odd, but not rare. Finding 2.5" ID U-bolts is a little harder. 3" ID is the most prevailing size u-bolt.

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$15X4=$60 for U-bolts.

Belltech lowering kit including: blocks, U-bolts, and hardware/fasteners = < $50

Ive had U-bolts made before when I lived out in the Valley and it was like $40 for 4 U-bolts from Betts Spring Inc and they would cold roll them for you in minutes.

 

Doesnt make much sense to me personally to pay so much for those u-bolts.

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$15X4=$60 for U-bolts.

Belltech lowering kit including: blocks, U-bolts, and hardware/fasteners = < $50

Ive had U-bolts made before when I lived out in the Valley and it was like $40 for 4 U-bolts from Betts Spring Inc and they would cold roll them for you in minutes.

 

Doesnt make much sense to me personally to pay so much for those u-bolts.

 

 

Every Auto parts store seems to have these blocks for about 20-30 bucks, and yes U-bolts are costly......But once they are on its so worth it....:D

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I have 3" blocks on my goon. If you don't mind a little fabrication, I went down to my local steel place and got some 2x3" 1/4" square tubing cut about 5" long and drilled a hole in one side and welded a bolt on the other to make my drop blocks. Then I went to a spring place in town and had them bend me up some U bolts. I've run this settup for 8 years with no problems.

 

Then I de-arched the leafs, modified the front perch and made a tub for the differential but that's another story.

 

I like your style....One the blocks.....Simple...:cool:

 

Well the hole goon.

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I have lowering blocks in my wagon as well as doing the bottom leaf flip... what I found is the axle tubes are almost the same size as an early Mustang with a straight 6 they had a 7" rear end and small axle tubes the biggest thing to do is run pinion angle spacers to help keep the pinion from slapping the floor... some of you have seen my wagon and I would say it sits low in the rear and the rear only hits from time to time and usally because Im being stupid and I did not cut up the floor

 

 

Clayton

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i just saw a guy (hes from camby oregon, some of you probably know him. mustard wagon with vg30) he has 2 inch lowering blocks and a 3 degree shim to change the angle of the axle so you dont get slap. dont know if this helps anybody out, just another angle to think of

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The guy lardlungs talked about is Dave (dvboth). He's the one I was talking about that I think will know the way to buy the lowering blocks you are looking for.you could pm him,he's a ratsun member also.

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Every Auto parts store seems to have these blocks for about 20-30 bucks

....

 

 

Not here. Kragen(O’Reilly’s), Autozone, and Napa do not carry u-bolts or blocks. They cannot even order them. I havent tried Car Quest yet, but the closest one is 20 min. in a direction I do not normally travel. Kragen has switched to O’Reilly’s which means they no longer stock or order block kits. Autozone claims that they do not and have not carried blocks or U-bolts and the only Napa I contacted said to find a local shop that makes them. I called 5 Kragens in 3 citys, 3 Autozones in 3 citys, and the one Napa in yes 1 city. Wild Goose Chase!

 

There is some mystical place locally that makes U-bolts and they are within 5 min. driving time from my house, but I dont believe they really exist despite what my friends and neighbors say, because I still cannot find them via web or physically looking for such a place.

 

I think I may just tilt my head till the car looks level and call it good...

 

 

PS The Napa I checked is a small town Napa aka Hollister Auto Parts and isnt really a full fledged Napa like most other stores. I will see if I can find another.

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  • 6 years later...

Digging up an old thread....

 

 

So 2* for a 2" lowering block?

 

Thanks!!

Extremely generic assumption. Better than nothing though. Magnetic angle finders are dirt cheap. You want to set it up so the angle on the pinion is identical to the angle on the output shaft of the trans, whatever the angle is. Shim the diff to achieve a matching angle.
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