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510 Wagon lowering blocks


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#1 DatsunMotorSports

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 02:30 PM

So I have been hunting down a pair of lowering blocks for my 510. I have several sets of them already, but nothing complete(block and u-bolt sets).

Here is what I have found

I have a set of Toyota or Chevy 1" & 1.5" aluminum billet blocks with 5/8" center pins. The 5/8" center pin is the correct size for the Wagon Center Pins.
The leaf springs are approx 2.5" wide.
The axle tube is approx. 2.5" in Diameter and round so 2.5" ID round U-bolts are require and length will vary depend on lowering block thickness.

I have seen that Belltech has been used for lowering as per the parts section of this site. Part #6202. However the U-bolts are 3" ID U-bolts and are not ideally suitable for the 510 axle housing.

Anyone have a definitive this part # works with u-bolts etc on a 510 wagon? Id like to just order a 2" lowering block kit.

AutoZone and Kragen Auto Parts do not carry any kind of lowering blocks what-so-ever. Kragen can order by application, but as you may have guessed there is not a listing for a Datsun 510.

Thanks Guys for input

#2 INDY510

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 02:50 PM

I am also looking for a set of 2" lowering blocks........... but I'm not shure if the 510 and 710 can use the same blocks and U-bolts........ (Mike?... DB?)


I know wagdatto had 2.5" blocks with a slight angle,, and different leaf springs........... but the driveshaft tunnel needed to be cut to stop the "axle-slap"


It seems like most people don't have any issues with 2" blocks.............. right?................. [/endthreadjack}.... :D

#3 DatsunMotorSports

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 03:09 PM

but I'm not shure if the 510 and 710 can use the same blocks and U-bolts........ (Mike?... DB?


I have a set of 71 521 rear spring set/ & trailer w/axle, Roadster, and a 82 Maxima wagon so I have some basis for comparison.
Both the 82 wagon and 71 521 springs are the 2.5" width and the axle for them as well as most other Datsun live axle applications is a H190 and the axle tubes are pretty much the same on all of them(axle width being the difference as well as brake hardware). I think its pretty safe to assume that if its stock Datsun its got a 5/8" center pin and 2.5" wide spring. Axle diameter may vary depending on the leaf mount situation. It appears Datsun/Fuji Heavy Industries used different mounting hardware which could possible change the ID of the U-bolt depending on application(I doubt it though). This is mostly speculation based on what I have measured on the 510 wagons, Roadsters, 810/910 wagons, and 521 pickups.

It would be nice to get a 2" lowering block with 2* of angle correction.

#4 izzo

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 03:19 PM

Datto510 has some lowering blocks on the back of his goon, but they were on there when he bought it.

I bet gunnars auto supply in longview would have something. They have a good variety.
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#5 greengoon

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 06:24 PM

I have 3" blocks on my goon. If you don't mind a little fabrication, I went down to my local steel place and got some 2x3" 1/4" square tubing cut about 5" long and drilled a hole in one side and welded a bolt on the other to make my drop blocks. Then I went to a spring place in town and had them bend me up some U bolts. I've run this settup for 8 years with no problems.

Then I de-arched the leafs, modified the front perch and made a tub for the differential but that's another story.

#6 Just Joel

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 10:51 PM

I made my own 2.75" blocks with 3* to correct the pinion angle and found 3" longer u-bolts through Napa for $15 each...

Later
Joel

#7 benzo

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Posted 30 August 2010 - 06:46 PM

I am using the bell tech ones and they work but not a perfect fit but while i was in japan i noticed a company selling blocks for trucks there and was and may buy a set and try and see how they fit

#8 DatsunMotorSports

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Posted 31 August 2010 - 09:42 PM

I am using the bell tech ones and they work but not a perfect fit

...


Can you explain more in depth?
Do the U bolts not fit the axle and other parts? Do the Blocks not fit the spring, center pin, etc?

Just curious: If its just U-bolts that are the problem that is a pretty easy fix, but if the center pin or block size is an issue it might be worth hunting down a more proper fit.

I wish I knew what these billet aluminum blocks were from for sure. Id just order the blocks and buy the U-bolts I need separately and then Id know it fit for sure. Although I had considered doubling up the 1 and 1.5" blocks, but I cant see stacking blocks as being a good thing.

#9 benzo

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Posted 31 August 2010 - 10:06 PM

I believe I am using the s10 block kit but have to look at the box again for the part #. the u bolts do work but are a tad wide but was able to fit over the axle and had to massage them in through the holes of the backing plate and the bolts are long but can be cut. the pin is a bit small but did keep axle from moving. not perfect but have not had issues for several years but have not seen any others that are any better fit wise or have heard of anything better. I have considered doing some rearched springs instead or if some blocks I saw in japan for trucks would work I may try those

#10 280zx2by2

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 06:44 AM

http://www.tickover....en-uk/p616.html

Would these work? Because $20 seems like a hell of a deal.

#11 DatsunMotorSports

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 08:29 PM

http://www.tickover.co.uk/shop/contents/en-uk/p616.html

Would these work? Because $20 seems like a hell of a deal.



That is 20 pounds British tender.

I dont know that they would work

Basically we are looking for:

2.5" wide block by what ever drop amount(fill in the blank sort of thing) with a 5/8" center pin
The U-bolt would ideally be 2.5" ID round(vs square) and I did not measure shank on the U-bolts, but it was a 17mm nut on each end so probably a 12mm or 1/2" bolt shank.

Finding blocks with a 5/8" center pin is odd, but not rare. Finding 2.5" ID U-bolts is a little harder. 3" ID is the most prevailing size u-bolt.

#12 Just Joel

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 11:29 PM

Finding 2.5" ID U-bolts is a little harder. 3" ID is the most prevailing size u-bolt.


I found 3" longer u-bolts through Napa for $15 each...

Later
Joel


Napa...

Later
Joel

#13 DatsunMotorSports

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 07:03 AM

$15X4=$60 for U-bolts.
Belltech lowering kit including: blocks, U-bolts, and hardware/fasteners = < $50
Ive had U-bolts made before when I lived out in the Valley and it was like $40 for 4 U-bolts from Betts Spring Inc and they would cold roll them for you in minutes.

Doesnt make much sense to me personally to pay so much for those u-bolts.

#14 H5WAGON

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 08:51 AM

$15X4=$60 for U-bolts.
Belltech lowering kit including: blocks, U-bolts, and hardware/fasteners = < $50
Ive had U-bolts made before when I lived out in the Valley and it was like $40 for 4 U-bolts from Betts Spring Inc and they would cold roll them for you in minutes.

Doesnt make much sense to me personally to pay so much for those u-bolts.



Every Auto parts store seems to have these blocks for about 20-30 bucks, and yes U-bolts are costly......But once they are on its so worth it....:D
1970 510 Wagon......L20B,Weber 32/36.........5spd  http://community.rat...1970-510-wagon/
1970 510 Wagon......L16, Weber 32/36....Automatic
California Day Dream..... http://i1205.photobu...ODItMS5qcGc.jpg My 1st Wagon. :)
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#15 H5WAGON

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 08:57 AM

I have 3" blocks on my goon. If you don't mind a little fabrication, I went down to my local steel place and got some 2x3" 1/4" square tubing cut about 5" long and drilled a hole in one side and welded a bolt on the other to make my drop blocks. Then I went to a spring place in town and had them bend me up some U bolts. I've run this settup for 8 years with no problems.

Then I de-arched the leafs, modified the front perch and made a tub for the differential but that's another story.


I like your style....One the blocks.....Simple...:cool:

Well the hole goon.
1970 510 Wagon......L20B,Weber 32/36.........5spd  http://community.rat...1970-510-wagon/
1970 510 Wagon......L16, Weber 32/36....Automatic
California Day Dream..... http://i1205.photobu...ODItMS5qcGc.jpg My 1st Wagon. :)
KA-Swap Wagon, I Sold.... :crying: http://community.rat...rneywroad-trip/

#16 Loren

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 11:37 AM

i think Dave (dvboth) might have an answer for this,he has lowering blocks on his goon and I think he once told me he just picked them up locally. pm him
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#17 69FJWagon

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 03:26 PM

I have lowering blocks in my wagon as well as doing the bottom leaf flip... what I found is the axle tubes are almost the same size as an early Mustang with a straight 6 they had a 7" rear end and small axle tubes the biggest thing to do is run pinion angle spacers to help keep the pinion from slapping the floor... some of you have seen my wagon and I would say it sits low in the rear and the rear only hits from time to time and usally because Im being stupid and I did not cut up the floor


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#18 lardlungs

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 05:25 PM

i just saw a guy (hes from camby oregon, some of you probably know him. mustard wagon with vg30) he has 2 inch lowering blocks and a 3 degree shim to change the angle of the axle so you dont get slap. dont know if this helps anybody out, just another angle to think of

#19 Loren

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 06:02 PM

i just saw a guy (hes from camby oregon, some of you probably know him. mustard wagon with vg30) he has 2 inch lowering blocks and a 3 degree shim to change the angle of the axle so you dont get slap. dont know if this helps anybody out, just another angle to think of


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#20 Loren

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Posted 03 September 2010 - 06:07 PM

The guy lardlungs talked about is Dave (dvboth). He's the one I was talking about that I think will know the way to buy the lowering blocks you are looking for.you could pm him,he's a ratsun member also.
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