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Southeast Texas King Cab


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So I got some more time in on the truck this week. Big job got postponed by a few days, so I got this weekend off.

 

Decided to tear into the rear end so i could have my tie straps back. I stayed late Tuesday, cut off the temporary setup,and built these towers out of some 8" pipe.

 

IMG_20110720_173123.jpg

 

There's a lot more, but gotta do stuff now, so I'll come back later and finish the update.

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Deleting is cheating, but if I could delete some of my posts, I probably would.

 

Meanwhile, back at the shop, I rolled the truck back in and connected those shock towers with a piece of t iron that I dug out of a scrap pile.

 

IMG_20110722_195355.jpg

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Sorry for breaking this up in so many posts. I'm updating from my phone between chores.

 

So, I got everything positioned and tacked before pulling the subframe for weld out.

 

IMG_20110722_173259.jpg

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So I typed up a nice long update with pics and witty stories and comments... then my phone crapped out and wouldn't post it, so I went to bed.

Now I'm on teh wife's computer, so hopefully I can get this to the public this time.

 

With the truck lifted into the air and the rearend pulled out, it looked a little like I was building a hover truck of some sort.

IMG_20110722_173248.jpg

 

Had to make some plates to tie the T down to the frame. Thought it would be a nice oppurtunity to make Kaoss jealous.

Started out by finding some drop plates from the back of the shear that looked useful, and layout where I want to cut.

 

IMG_20110722_173929.jpg

 

Place in shear and line up with blade.

 

IMG_20110722_174009.jpg

 

push joystick to the left, and viola.

 

IMG_20110722_173943.jpg

 

Would've done time stamps, but it really took longer to take the pictures than it did to cut the plates.

 

Got those welded on.

IMG_20110722_192908.jpg

 

Started to close it in completely with the plates, but decided that it was strong enough without that, and because I'm having the frame galvanized when its complete, I can't have any sealed chambers in it. Already need to go back and punch holes in some of the work that I've already done, so I figured I'd leave that section open.

 

Got the rearend bolted back up, and sat it on the tires. Sits about like I wanted it to. I'm always happy when something comes out like I planned. The tires on there now are 2" bigger radius than what will be driving on it, so it's gonna be low, but the geometry looks right to me.

 

IMG_20110722_195333.jpg

 

IMG_20110722_195428.jpg

 

Let me know what you think.

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Okay, so here's the deal. In a bit of a pickle.

 

1st. The wrecked J30t that I got all of my parts from had a bent lower control arm. No biggy, cheap part from a junk yard. Bought a used one from Minnesota for like $50. Ball joint was roached, but the arm was strait. Popped out the old ball joint and ordered one off the interweb. Got it in. It's wrong. Way completely unuseably wrong. No bigs. Emailed to exchange it...... got a refund because no one makes a ball joint for a freaking Infiniti J30. Not even Infiniti. Thinking that I may find something similar and modify my peices to use. I'm thinking a Z32 one would be close.

 

majorly need advice before waisting money on that.

 

2nd. gonna have to relocate the break master cylinder. Seems doable with some minor linkage fabrication.

 

3rd. Considering fabricating a bed with some checker plate. Wanna do it like a 30s style pickup using checker plate angle iron to continue the line at the bullet to the back of the truck.

 

Questions, Comments, Concerns? Please let me know. Need advice.... really....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

please.

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I a appreciate it man, but I don't really trust junk yard ball joints. What I really need is a good reference that could tell me different ball joint sizes so that I can get the closest match and bore out my parts to make it fit.

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  • 2 months later...

IMG_20110923_125112.jpg

 

Picked these up a while back. Got a set of used tires to throw on there for $100. The tires have an inch more side wall than the ones that I will be running when it's done, but atleast now I can have the same size wheels all of the way around.

 

Up until now, I've had Toyota Rav4 factory 17s in the back and Infiniti J30 factory 15s up front as I didn't have a complete set of wheels and tires for it.

 

Meanwhile, it looks like I'm gonna have to take Redeye's advice from a while back.

2eDeYe' date='08 March 2011 - 12:43 PM' timestamp='1299609817' post='440411']

Those springs will be compressed under load so they really won't stick up that high. You might look into coilovers for better packaging.

 

They obviously didn't compress that much, and I was prepared for them to stick above the hood. However, the springs take up entirely too much room under the hood. Haveing a really hard time fitting important things like.... oh, a break master cylinder.

 

Been doing some research over at nicoclub.com and I think I'm gonna copy some of the work done by the J30 guys over there. That means I need to buy s14 spindles, a z32 sway bar, and some aftermarket coilovers. While I'm at it, I figured I may as well go for adjustable lower control arms so that I can bring my track width in a bit.

 

Gonna be expensive.

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  • 4 weeks later...

IMG_20111030_160656.jpg

S14 spindles check

The J30 is very similar to all the S chassis. If you gat a set of fully adjustable coilovers like Tein Flex's, you can lower all of your upper strut mounts for better clearance. And the Tein Flex come with adjustable camber plates.

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The J30 is very similar to all the S chassis. If you gat a set of fully adjustable coilovers like Tein Flex's, you can lower all of your upper strut mounts for better clearance. And the Tein Flex come with adjustable camber plates.

that's the plan. It'll look a lot cleaner that way than how I was planning before, but the price is kinda slowing me down. Has anyone tried the cheaper adjustable coilovers, like k-sport, or Megan?

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