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New 77' 710 Wagon project.


280zx2by2

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Hopefully this Jerriest of all jerry rigs will work.

DSCN2547.jpg

Well, I would consider running coilovers in the future. Gives you full range adjustability and will (ahem) amend any doubts about this very unorthodox installation...

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Hopefully this Jerriest of all jerry rigs will work.

DSCN2547.jpg

 

But it wouldn't be as fun with out a little risk!!

 

My Dad always told me, "If you have time to do it twice, you have time to do it right the first time."

 

Suspension and brakes are two things you don't want to cut corners on. Do it right, nothing half-assed or "Jerriest of all Jerry Rigs", as you put it. By taking these kinds of risks, you're not only risking your own safety, but anyone else sharing the road with you. If you were in an accident which injured or even killed someone, and there was an investigation that uncovered this, it's very likely that they would string you up by your toes. Period.

I urge you, don't cut corners man. I'm not bashing or flaming you; far from it. I'm a concerned bystander and I'm just trying to give constructive criticism and perhaps prevent you from doing something that could have catastrophic results. Like Zerow said, I think the best thing you could do at this point is probably cut those perches off and put on coilovers. They're inexpensive, and safe.

 

Good luck to you, I'm watching this project, and anxious to see where you go with it. ;)

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My Dad always told me, "If you have time to do it twice, you have time to do it right the first time."

 

Suspension and brakes are two things you don't want to cut corners on. Do it right, nothing half-assed or "Jerriest of all Jerry Rigs", as you put it. By taking these kinds of risks, you're not only risking your own safety, but anyone else sharing the road with you. If you were in an accident which injured or even killed someone, and there was an investigation that uncovered this, it's very likely that they would string you up by your toes. Period.

I urge you, don't cut corners man. I'm not bashing or flaming you; far from it. I'm a concerned bystander and I'm just trying to give constructive criticism and perhaps prevent you from doing something that could have catastrophic results. Like Zerow said, I think the best thing you could do at this point is probably cut those perches off and put on coilovers. They're inexpensive, and safe.

 

Good luck to you, I'm watching this project, and anxious to see where you go with it. ;)

Im only doing this so I can drive the car up and down the block about a half a mile (to a church so maybe by the grace of God?....)I just want to see how the transmission, carb, and engine are going to do before I put any more money into it.

 

But I mean as far as the perch, the spring isnt going to fall off, I mean the worst that could happen is... Idk the entire perch somehow breaks off, or the coil "coils" itself and catches on the wheel?

 

 

But coilovers... cheap? haha show me these coilovers!

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im not gonna lie this scares the fuck out of me you sure your not friends with this guy?

http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=20412&page=1

 

No, because he at least has a roll cage haha, and out of all the time I spent on HybridZ, off all the engine swaps, I have NEVER seen a sweeter set of engine mounts. JTR would be embarrassed by that quality.

 

 

 

Many lolz are still to be had from that thread.

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I don't remember exactly what the company name is(in fact I've just spent the last 30 minutes searching for the name of the company), but there's a place that sells blue springs, and they have coilover setups for very reasonable.

But actually, considering all the other coilovers for other types of cars these days, $200 for a set of Ground Control is VERY reasonable. Ground Control is probably the most popular, and is definitely a good product from what I've heard. I found some inferior-quality generic ones and have been using them without an issue, but like I said, $200 for Ground Controls(with your choice of spring rate, mind you), is NOT a bad deal. From what I've seen, the prices only go down from there... there are exceptions, of course. High dollar exotic springs, etc..

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...Like Zerow said, I think the best thing you could do at this point is probably cut those perches off and put on coilovers. They're inexpensive, and safe.

 

Good luck to you, I'm watching this project, and anxious to see where you go with it. ;)

Anything with the appropriate inside diameter of 2 incehes will work just fine. IIRC, that includes models like the Accord as well as Sentra. You can get something that will remove that existing perch and give you something a whole lot safer for $50 to $150 for the pair, depending on your spring rate, coilover material, etc, etc. Mine are 200# springs, and I wouldn't go any stiffer than 250#s. The perch requires about 30 minutes worth of work to remove and another 30 minutes with a grinder to smooth it out, per side. Then, you're rolling with something a whole lot safer, and you can take it on longer than half mile drives.

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I don't remember exactly what the company name is(in fact I've just spent the last 30 minutes searching for the name of the company), but there's a place that sells blue springs, and they have coilover setups for very reasonable.

But actually, considering all the other coilovers for other types of cars these days, $200 for a set of Ground Control is VERY reasonable. Ground Control is probably the most popular, and is definitely a good product from what I've heard. I found some inferior-quality generic ones and have been using them without an issue, but like I said, $200 for Ground Controls(with your choice of spring rate, mind you), is NOT a bad deal. From what I've seen, the prices only go down from there... there are exceptions, of course. High dollar exotic springs, etc..

So that $200 is for both sides? If so I have seriously been underestimating the cheapness of coilover suspension...

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Same guy I bought mine from, and he's a member on here, and IIRC, something about 10% off if you mention you're a member here...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-240Z-510-280Z-Coil-Overs-Coilovers-Springs-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255d001c3fQQitemZ160474078271QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

 

(Actually, I stand corrected, its 20% off... [wish I had known...]):

http://community.ratsun.net/user/779-datsun-parts/

(At the bottom of the Member page)

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Same guy I bought mine from, and he's a member on here, and IIRC, something about 10% off if you mention you're a member here...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-240Z-510-280Z-Coil-Overs-Coilovers-Springs-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255d001c3fQQitemZ160474078271QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

 

(Actually, I stand corrected, its 20% off... [wish I had known...]):

http://community.ratsun.net/user/779-datsun-parts/

(At the bottom of the Member page)

 

Thank you! I was iffy on the ground control price, and I dont need anything special, ride height and Im happy.

 

 

Got the Jerry rigged suspension in (which ended up feeling real tight and looking ok safe)and it actually moved 10 feet! I didnt expect it to move so I still had the hood up and almost no brake fluid so I just stopped, didnt want to put a dent in a tree with my 710.

 

Im very pleased with this car.

 

 

Im going to start rebuilding the carb maybe Wednesday, first time I have ever touched a carb (I know kids these days) but aside from the carb the list of things that dont work are...

 

 

-BRAKES!

-Blinkers

-Drivers door handle

-Brake fluid level light (wires are cut)

-No radio

-Interior lights are dim even on high

-Ignition switch

 

 

Thats about it, Ill add some as I find them or as I break them.

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Drove it today (it decided to idle!) transmission works, brakes do not. Idk exactly whats wrong with them but im going to start rebuilding the carb starting tomorrow, brakes can wait.

 

I thought about getting a recon carb but decided to use this as a learning experience... and because I didn't feel like paying $350. Carb is a DCH340-52.

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The hitachi carbs are really easy to rebuild. No reason to go spend that much on one that some guy who doesn't really care rebuilt. Helps to know what the insides look like in case something ever goes wrong.

 

Also, I'd probably put a bit more importance on the brakes than the engine running. Work on it being able to stop, before you make it GO. The brakes probably just need to be bled. It's not tough to see if the wheel cylinders are leaking, and if the master cylinder is faulty, that's pretty easily diagnosed, too. Keep up the good work.

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The hitachi carbs are really easy to rebuild. No reason to go spend that much on one that some guy who doesn't really care rebuilt. Helps to know what the insides look like in case something ever goes wrong.

 

Also, I'd probably put a bit more importance on the brakes than the engine running. Work on it being able to stop, before you make it GO. The brakes probably just need to be bled. It's not tough to see if the wheel cylinders are leaking, and if the master cylinder is faulty, that's pretty easily diagnosed, too. Keep up the good work.

I bled the front but I didn't bleed the rears because I haven't messed with the rear and its a two chamber system right? And my consciences is that its the master cylinder but how will I know?

 

 

And there are a few hurricanes coming soon so I figured id get the carb off so I could have something to work on indoors (no garage) Not worried about the car moving, I know the trans works so it will be breaks right after the carb. Ha the carb is so bad I turned the adjustment screw back and forth oth ways and there was absolutely no change in RPM, and its spits a lot of fuel when revved.

 

DSCN2552.jpg

 

Also can I just get the holes in the holy smog header welded shut?

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Fuck hitachi carburetors... Id rather R&R the injectors and injector harness 5 times in my zx before I take one of these carbs off again...

Not all Hitachi carbs are bad...remember the SUs for Datsuns are made by Hitachi. I never curse Mother Hitachi's name... :)

(but admittedly, I DO NOT miss my old downdraft Hitachi carb for the same reason(s) )

 

Pay special attention to the surface of the inside of the accelerator pump body. They get corrosion in them and cause premature failure of the new seal. Otherwise, kick butt, take names, and leave no new parts left behind in the baggies...

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Not all Hitachi carbs are bad...remember the SUs for Datsuns are made by Hitachi. I never curse Mother Hitachi's name... :)

(but admittedly, I DO NOT miss my old downdraft Hitachi carb for the same reason(s) )

 

Pay special attention to the surface of the inside of the accelerator pump body. They get corrosion in them and cause premature failure of the new seal. Otherwise, kick butt, take names, and leave no new parts left behind in the baggies...

Hitachi made SU's? Did not know. :o

 

I just left the carb in my truck, don't feel like messing with it. The BRAAAAAPPP!! butterfly is sealed shut with carbon and I lost a bolt (wedged in between the intake or exhaust somewhere) Im thinking that since my y-pipe has a leak I may go ahead and drop the intake and exhaust, hope I dont break a stud, and go get the stupid smog holes welded shut.

 

These studs are 8mmx1.25 right? If so I can just clean off my old 280zx studs/bolts.

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I am always suspicious when they don't even say what offset the rims are.....

 

 

Either way those look like a +38mm offset........... and you'd need HUGE spacers...

 

 

 

If you are ever going to run 280zx struts you will be able to run a very low offset wheel.... (16x7 +5mm would work with 280zx struts)

 

 

The stock 710 struts don't allow for such a low offset..... (I'm running 16x7 +22mm Panasports on stock 710 struts)... and it would look wierd with a lower offset......... and when it was slammed on coilovers the 195/40/16 tires would hit the fenders when cornering

 

 

 

For the rears:..... I have 16x8 +12mm wheels with 215/40/16 tires......... and it is a perfect fit:

 

 

51071014.JPG

 

^^^The rear axle is sitting on the bump stops,,, , and the front is lowered ~4 inches..... on shortened struts..... with coilovers

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is what it looks like with stock 710 front struts (not lowered at all).... and stock height in the rear too:

 

 

 

521051.JPG

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Now is the time to get that thing running good....

 

 

Wheels should be the LAST thing you're thinking about right now........... Like I said, "280zx struts will narrow the front track width by almost 3/4" on each side"

 

so it all depends on wheteher you are planning on 280zx struts in the future.......... stock 14" 280zx six spokes will work good for either strut set-up

 

 

 

 

 

16x7 +22mm is good for stock 710 struts.......... but when I swap in 280zx struts with camber plates I'm going to try to fit a 16x7 +0 with a little camber.......... but that is going to be a really tight fit.... .. some might even say it's going to be HellaFlush...... :lol:

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  • 2 weeks later...

I decided im going to pull the head too. :) Might as well, thats the only gasket there is left... Unless the damn tensioner pops out. Like last time on my l28.

 

 

DSCN1819.jpg

 

RAGE.

 

Did your tensioner pop out when you worked on the timing chain/head ?

 

Or did the tensioner pop out during "operation" ?

 

thanks

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