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81 Datsun SD22 Swap to 83 Datsun 4x4


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Hi, I am new and have been reading topics on the Datsun 510 gas to SD22 diesel engine. I also have seen talk of installing a turbo.....just wondering how that's going because I am doing something similar as well. I have a SD22 engine with 92,000 original miles I am placing in a 83 Datsun 4x4 that used to have a Z24 in it. I have plenty of pics so far. I will send some if anyone is interested.

 

firemedic

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Yes, the 520 SD22 project. I have the oil pans off and are attempting it this weekend. I have been down with a Vasectomy over the weekend so I am feeling like getting out and getting dirty now so I will get those pics coming...about the wiring harness, I do not have one but was wondering if I could still make it work?

 

Skiatook326

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Are you unable to post the pictures on this forum? Do you have the diesel dpc module, engine controler, or the glow plug timer? If you have none of these items, I suppose you could juryrig something in, but I doubt you will be happy in the long run. You need a diesel wiring harness with all the electrical componets. Calhoon520 did it with a partial diesel wiring harness I think, but I do not know that for sure, you would have to ask him. Do you have a diesel transmission? The diesel engine will not bolt up to the gasser tranny without the diesel case. You can use the gasser tranny, but you have to change the front case. I would not tear down a moving vehicle till you have all the parts you need. wayno

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Front end looks ok....sides are pretty good for an 83 model, what do you think? This is the front of the diesel tranny and the rear guts and housing after I changed out some bearings and a gear that was bad in the gasser.

 

 

4933956356_34d95617be_m.jpg4933956350_e650585be0_m.jpg4933956368_cd1053e9fb_m.jpg

 

 

The diesel SD22 oil pan before I start the transformation....the SD22 looks pretty clean but I did find some rust on the crank.....I think it's ok

 

 

4933956362_266d60b902_m.jpg4933956358_7eb6a8ff61_m.jpg4933956364_9bb30f06d4_m.jpg

 

 

 

Is anything you mentioned on the side of this block or is most of it inside the cab?

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Front end looks ok....sides are pretty good for an 83 model, what do you think? This is the front of the diesel tranny and the rear guts and housing after I changed out some bearings and a gear that was bad in the gasser.

The truck looks good, I see you have the diesel case that you need, that is great, one less thing that has to be found.

 

4933956356_34d95617be_m.jpg4933956350_e650585be0_m.jpg4933956368_cd1053e9fb_m.jpg

 

 

The diesel SD22 oil pan before I start the transformation....the SD22 looks pretty clean but I did find some rust on the crank.....I think it's ok

 

 

4933956362_266d60b902_m.jpg4933956358_7eb6a8ff61_m.jpg4933956364_9bb30f06d4_m.jpg

 

 

 

Is anything you mentioned on the side of this block or is most of it inside the cab?

Just below the injection pump is the engine controller, it has an arm that has a shaft connected to it, the shaft is connected to the arm sticking out of the side of the injection pump itself. The engine will not start with that shaft connected to the arm of the injection pump without the dpc module, or you have to remove the shaft from the arm . The reason is, that the injection pump controller is in the shut off position, the pump will not suppy fuel to the engine, you cannot even prime the pump. There are so many wires going everywhere between the controller, dpc module, glow plug timer/relay and the ignition that it is beyond my wiring knowledge, I could not do it myself, let alone explain it to someone else. You can juryrig it by connecting a choke cable to the top of the arm sticking out of the injection pump, then when you pull the choke inside the cab it pulls the top of the arm towards the firewall(counter clockwise) and that cuts off the fuel, but it doesn't help start the engine. The injection pump has three positions, you can feel them if you remove the shaft from the arm, counter clockwise hard is off, clockwise hard is the start position, and in the middle(hands off), is the run position. You can use the choke cable, but when you turn the key off, the engine will keep running until you pull the choke cable to the off position. and there is no easy way to to get it into the start position(when it's cold out in the morning) unless you put another choke cable in to pull it to the start position. I hope you can find a wiring harness with the componets, then when you turn the key on/off, it does it automaticly. You have the controller, it should have a bundle(7 wires) of wires with a plug coming off of it. Hope this helps you. wayno

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<br>Front end looks ok....sides are pretty good for an 83 model, what do you think? This is the front of the diesel tranny and the rear guts and housing after I changed out some bearings and a gear that was bad in the gasser.<br><br><br>4933956356_34d95617be_m.jpg4933956350_e650585be0_m.jpg4933956368_cd1053e9fb_m.jpg<br><br><br>The diesel SD22 oil pan before I start the transformation....the SD22 looks pretty clean but I did find some rust on the crank.....I think it's ok<br><br><br>4933956362_266d60b902_m.jpg4933956358_7eb6a8ff61_m.jpg4933956364_9bb30f06d4_m.jpg<br><br><br><br>Is anything you mentioned on the side of this block or is most of it inside the cab?<br>

Okay..... Heres a site that is all about Nissan diesels http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/ ;I learned a lot from this site. I you need any help with the wiring let me know. Seriously check that that site out there is lot of knowledge to be gained there. Nice truck by the way, now i want one.

 

 

 

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Ok, thanks guys, I will work gaining information so I don't make a mistake. Also I need a diesel wiring harness now lol so if you know where one is at or who to talk to I would appreciate it.

Anyone need a Z24 with a fresh carb rebuild!

 

firemedic

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Ok, thanks guys, I will work gaining information so I don't make a mistake. Also I need a diesel wiring harness now lol so if you know where one is at or who to talk to I would appreciate it.

Anyone need a Z24 with a fresh carb rebuild!

 

firemedic

 

I could make you a diesel that would tie into your original harness you would just have to solder in about five wires. I think there is a diesel harness at one or pick a parts. What do have for wiring on the sd anything?

cahoon

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Hi there guys, do you ever see any datsun diesels on craigslist in your area firemedic, sometimes you have to buy a whole non running truck just for the parts, there are always a few on craigslist around here that run, I have spent as much as $300. for one that was complete but non running, it took me two days to scrap it out, but now I have what I need for the next project. It is always good to have an extra diesel front case, as the early 80s cases have the small cluster gear bearing, and I have had more than one go out on me, I use my trucks hard though, and when the lower bearing hole in the case gets buggered up I take it to the machine shop and have them turn the hole to the 1984 size bigger bearing, and I use the nap z front cover(alum.) as the back up, in case the front diesel cover(steel) is broken or buggered up so badly that it can't be turned to the bigger bearing size. If you do what calhoon520 did for his trucks wiring harness(a stand alone harness), you still need the glow plug timer and the dpc module. Kudos to you calhoon520, I haven't the brains to make one myself, to many wires, I get soooo confused.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have been trying to find another wiring harness for the SD22 but have been unsuccesful. Calhoon, do you have the harness make up ability for this SD22. As far as wiring I only have the original leads from the injector and glow plugs. Everything else is gone........

 

Sorry it has taken me a long time to get back I have been gone and will have some pictures of the oil pan conversion as well as my turbo kit I ordered.

 

firemedic

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  • 5 weeks later...

[is this a vacume pump?]5084442001_513d6dd4e6_m.jpg[Turbo fits tight might have problems hitting the booster]5084442001_513d6dd4e6_m.jpg5084442003_a1d50c8e36_m.jpg[the power steering pump will fit nicely with just one custom bracket]5084442009_05b906bcc1_m.jpg5084442013_4f699bb2f6_m.jpg[OK, i got this thing to start in that position, can someone tell me where the middle position is?]5084442015_891ea105d5_m.jpg[the oil pan welded and currently holding oil] 5084442007_6be9556634_m.jpg [need to drill new holes for the tranny mount]

 

I will be starting the turbo piping and intercooler install next week and will post more pictures then. I started the beast today and had good oil pressure and had circulation of coolant. I installed a push button for the glowplug timer I will have to make sure I don't over heat them. Overall everything is going ok and should have a good test run in a couple weeks.

 

firemedic

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That vacuum pump on the back of the alternator connects to the power brake booster, magicly you then have power brakes. The engine will not supply enough vacuum to service the booster. The injection pump centers itself, it doesn't stay in the start(it will start in the run position, but on really cold mornings it is hard starting in the run position) or shut off modes without the engine controller or some kind of cable to hold it there. wayno

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<br>[is this a vacume pump?]5084442001_513d6dd4e6_m.jpg[Turbo fits tight might have problems hitting the booster]5084442001_513d6dd4e6_m.jpg5084442003_a1d50c8e36_m.jpg[the power steering pump will fit nicely with just one custom bracket]5084442009_05b906bcc1_m.jpg5084442013_4f699bb2f6_m.jpg[OK, i got this thing to start in that position, can someone tell me where the middle position is?]5084442015_891ea105d5_m.jpg[the oil pan welded and currently holding oil]                                                      5084442007_6be9556634_m.jpg [need to drill new holes for the tranny mount]<br><br>I will be starting the turbo piping and intercooler install next week and will post more pictures then. I started the beast today and had good oil pressure and had circulation of coolant. I installed a push button for the glowplug timer I will have to make sure I don't over heat them. Overall everything is going ok and should have a good test run in a couple weeks.<br><br>firemedic<br>
<br><br>Nice job on the oil pan! If you want I think I can find a DCP, pump control motor Glow plug control around here. I can make a harness for you if you want. I have the time and I am really bored I broke my knee cap so I am off work for 2 months. 

 

<div>Cahoon</div>

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<br><br>Nice job on the oil pan! If you want I think I can find a DCP, pump control motor Glow plug control around here. I can make a harness for you if you want. I have the time and I am really bored I broke my knee cap so I am off work for 2 months. 

 

<div>Cahoon</div>

 

 

That would be awesome!!!!.......what do you want me to do?

 

 

Firemedic

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  • 3 weeks later...

OK, I have read posts until I feel nausious about throttle body's on the sd22. I have pictures coming soon for what I am seeing so I hope someone with knowledge can help me with my lack of boost from my turbo. I only have 2 psi coming through. I think from what I have been reading I should remove the butterfly from throttle body and reattach the housing minus the hoses from the IP. Then make the pneumatic governor manual with a lever. I realized I am restricting the flow of the turbo by having the throttle body hooked up. thus limiting the amount of exhaust generated. If this sounds close to right will somebody please let me know?

 

 

firemedic

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OK, I have read posts until I feel nausious about throttle body's on the sd22. I have pictures coming soon for what I am seeing so I hope someone with knowledge can help me with my lack of boost from my turbo. I only have 2 psi coming through. I think from what I have been reading I should remove the butterfly from throttle body and reattach the housing minus the hoses from the IP. Then make the pneumatic governor manual with a lever. I realized I am restricting the flow of the turbo by having the throttle body hooked up. thus limiting the amount of exhaust generated. If this sounds close to right will somebody please let me know?

 

 

firemedic

 

Hi there Firemedic, are you sure the turbo is the right size for a 2.2 liter diesel? I have been thinking about a way to bypass the throddlebody, fact is, the injection pump on the US models are not made for a turbo. If you can find a steady vacuum source, that is not connected to the power brake booster in any way, you might be able to figure out how to create a vacuum leak that would be predictable enough to control the injection pump. Vacuum pulls the injection pump to idle, release the vacuum slowly and the engine should rev up slowly, the problem is doing this predictably. If you connect such a valve to the power brake vacuum source, everytime you step on the brakes will it change the vacuum enough to make the injection pump act irradicly/uncontrollable? If you figure something out, you could get rid of the throddle body. There was a bunch of guys in the San Francico area a few years back that were trying to figure it out, they seemed to just fade away, don't know if they figured it out. I went another route, I bought a SD engine with a VE type injection pump in australia, had it shipped to the usa, just have not been motovated to turbocharge my engine yet, but getting close. wayno

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What is a VE? And if I get one will my turbo work? I had a mechanic look at my turbo and said it should work........here is what it says!

 

.57 Compressor

Wet Float Bearings

3" Inlet 2" Outlet

50 A/R

T3/T4 hybrid

 

firemedic

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Check this thread out its very informative.http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?t=495&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 And fire if you still need help with the wiring let me know I am going to a make a trip out to the pick a part this weekend and see what kind of shape the harness is in. I was also thinking its pretty simple to make a custom harness that would be the way to go. I have an extra dcp unit that I repaired then you would just have to find a glow plug control unit.

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I dont really know what VE means, all I know is the VE injection pump is controled by a metering lever on the injection pump its self, instead of a throddle body, and the result is the intake manifold is a hole hanging out in the open begging for a turbo. I beleave the dodge and ford diesels all run some kind of VE type injection pump or are configured like one. The datsun/nissan SD22 diesels sold in the USA all have inline type injection pumps. Difficult to modify, but thats the point. The engine wasn't popular enough for a someone to figure out how to make a rear casing for the IP with a lever to control the throddle. As much as they try, if the vehicle is popular, someone will figure out how to make it go fast. wayno

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  • 4 weeks later...

095IMAG0011

 

 

Here is the latest photo of the turbo and intercooler installed. I have removed this turbo and am purchasing a GT25. I think from what I have been told this will be a better fit than the T3T4 one I have now. Apparently I had a turbo that would only put out 2 psi of boost around 2,500 rpm. So I hope this one will offer more psi of boost at a lower rpm for the little SD22.

 

This is what I had:

 

Hybrid Turbo Charger:

  • .57 compressor wheel trim mapped for low and high boost setups
  • Oil fitting gaskets & mounting studs included
  • Capable of producing over 450 horsepower
  • Wet float bearings & properly balanced
  • 3" inlet diameter with a 2" outlet
  • 50 A/R compressor housing
  • .63 A/R turbine housing
  • 1/8 NPT oil inlet
  • T3/T4 hybrid
     

1.jpgThis is what I think I need:

 

GT25 internal wastegate turbo charger:

 

  • Intake :2.5 inch
  • Outlet: 2 inch
  • Compressor trim: .42 ar
  • Compressor Wheel diameter: 60.05 /42.12
  • Turbine wheel diameter : 46.46 /53.20
  • Exhaust trim: .49ar
  • Turbine flange type: t25 flange
  • Downpipe flange type : 5 bolt type (will not fit sr20 down pipe bolt pattern)
  • Cooling type: oil and water cool
  • Actuator : set at 8psi
  • Horsepower rating: 250-300hp+(wet float bearing)

Still open for comments.......

 

firemedic

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