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Lifting a 620


lynchfourtwenty

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ok so since everyone an they're mom is lowering their trucks an such, i been thinkin about raising mine.. how would i go about doin this an how far could i lift it in the front realisticly?

 

for the rear i just get longer u bolts and put the axle under the leaf springs with the lowering block now becoming a rasing block.. is that correct? with all that done what size tires do you think i could realisticly put on? would i need longer shocks?

 

thinkin a prerunner style look.. brush guard an all that mess.. prolly put a heavy duty back bumper on or something too..

 

also will prolly end up with a ka or na sr in the long run..

 

and YES I DID SEARCH

 

http://community.ratsun.net/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1

 

http://community.ratsun.net/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1

 

http://www.google.com/search?q=lifting+a+620&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7ADSA_en

 

maybe im not doin it right? OR AM I THE FIRST MOTHER FUCKER ON RATSUN TO ASK THIS QUESTION?? if so do i win a cookie?? heh :frantics: :rofl:

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It's been done.

 

You can get a couple inches on the front torsions. Much more then the camber gets all screwy.

 

The rear, more thna just bolting the axle to the other side of the springs. Need the spring perches on the other side too- those have to be welded on. Just swapping it over is 4+ inches (1/2 diameter of the axle housing + perches and spring pack) Likely need longer shocks. Just doing the axle under spring, I run 235/75R15s in back, and half the springs are gone too (a LOT of lift doing that) in my 4X4. Of course my front axle is quite different since mine's a real 4X4, still a conversion job though.

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Ryan in Seattle/ San diego lifted his 620 by cranking the torsions UP as far as they would go. For the rear im not sure what he did, i believe his leafs were UNDER the axle but i may be wrong. Redeye may have more insight on Ryans old 620 seeing as they went romping in it a few times :lol: I drove his 620 once & the front wandered a bit when you hit a bump because of the max'd out torsions & it took a little getting used to.

P1010147-1.jpg

P1010023.jpg

& Ryan trying to drive up a steep hill,,,HaHa

P1010160.jpg

Hope this helps out a tad.

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Actually Ryans was stock in the rear. He cranked the torsion bars til they rested on the a-arm bumpstops, then took those out.

 

I don't think he ever got it aligned which might have been part of the wandering issue.

 

Just doing the spring over in the rear should get you 5" or so lift.

 

 

Boddybagged...shipping to 98271?

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i just want to do something with the truck, fuckin things just sittin in my garage collecting shit in the bed as usual.. runs, drives, turns ab stops just needs tags..

 

plus when i take it to shows or whatever i want it to stand out from all the other 620s.. an what better way then to raise it.. im tired of seein low ass 620s that get stuck on anything bigger then a ciggerette pack lol..

 

i'd love to buy or trade for a 4x4 620 but i just dont think thats going to happen..

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Damn....Went to the pick in pull here and saw the first two 620's ive seen in the last two years, and one was a 75 4x4, still had everything on it minus the bench seat......Of course they wont sell me the damn thing....and that pisses me off...it was for sale two counties over for $550 at some point, the p.o. had painted the for sale on the side....

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Before I was fully insane, (it was a gradual thing with me) I did a 4" body lift. 3" would have been much better as the steering column is bolted to the frame on one end and to the dash (body) on the other. The column was actually slightly bent. This gives 3" without any steering geometry or suspension changes. The rad has to be lowered slightly to stay level in front of the clutch fan and shroud. I had a flat bed so no gas door problems, otherwise the fuel filler hose must be extended. The rear bumper looked retarded so I drilled new holes and tilted it up closer to the tail lights. The front bumper I disconnected from the frame and just left it attached to the body... I mean the 620 front bumper is the most useless thing Nissan ever installed on that truck, well next to the dash dimmer switch that is. The shifter now sits lower and may hit the sheet metal so I removed some of the bend in it so that it is somewhat straighter and it clears just fine. I really liked the lowered shifter. A 3" rise will make the stock tires look smaller so expect that and plan some wider slightly taller ones. I was able to put 10.5 X 31s on with some torsion bar adjustments and dimpling the front floor for clearance. I don't advise this so go with 29" or less. To match the front just remove the rear springs and have them re-arched to gain what ever you need to level the truck. 620s tend to be ass high when stock so that they ride more level when carrying a load so this should be a minimal amount..

 

I used 4 X4 pressure treated posts, (make sure you use something only 3" high) and ran them side to side across the back, don't forget I have a flat bed, you may have a gas tank in the way. I ran 4X4s from the front to the back cab mounts on each side and two small pieces for the two front mounts under the rad. Just remove the through bolts and buy replacements that are 3 1/2" longer. Keep and use the rubber mounts on the lumber. Ive also heard of drilling holes in hockey pucks and stacking them.

 

Department of highways will frown on using lumber as a body lift so paint it black hope for the best, don't drive like a fool on the road and keep a low profile. No Chinese eyes lynch!

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i just want to do something with the truck, fuckin things just sittin in my garage collecting shit in the bed as usual.. runs, drives, turns ab stops just needs tags..

 

plus when i take it to shows or whatever i want it to stand out from all the other 620s.. an what better way then to raise it.. im tired of seein low ass 620s that get stuck on anything bigger then a ciggerette pack lol..

 

i'd love to buy or trade for a 4x4 620 but i just dont think thats going to happen..

 

Hey that was a piece of grass not a cigarette pack. hahhh

 

anyways I think you need to invest in a welder if your gonna go 4x4.

 

 

 

 

2eDeYe' date='13 August 2010 - 08:05 AM' timestamp='1281711936' post='338953']

Wood blocks :lol:

 

One of these days I'll build me a 4x4 620. :)

 

I've thought about this before my next 620 is goin 4x4. :D

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I've been trying to get rid of my lifted '76 Longbed for a couple years, it WAS a 4X4 but needs the transfer case reinstalled (which means welding in new brackets). Even though it runs and drives and has all the 4WD suspension and the Dana-30 front axle, most anyone wants to give me is scrap value. The modified D20 transfer case alone, with the proper adapter (which I have), is worth more than what anyone has been willing to pay.

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Hey that was a piece of grass not a cigarette pack. hahhh

 

anyways I think you need to invest in a welder if your gonna go 4x4.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I've thought about this before my next 620 is goin 4x4. :D

 

 

hahahahhaa!!! you knew exactly what i was talkin about hahahah!!

no disrespect to him or his truck i think its cool but its just not in my taste..

 

im thinkin.. sr20de an lift the truck a bit so i can fit some meaty tires an go have fun in the hills..

 

 

idk tho i jus wanted some opinions an feed back maybe a lil support.. we'll see what happens when i get some cash ;)

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hahahahhaa!!! you knew exactly what i was talkin about hahahah!!

no disrespect to him or his truck i think its cool but its just not in my taste..

 

im thinkin.. sr20de an lift the truck a bit so i can fit some meaty tires an go have fun in the hills..

 

 

idk tho i jus wanted some opinions an feed back maybe a lil support.. we'll see what happens when i get some cash ;)

 

I seen your face. when he was semi-stuck. lol

 

Its all good though.

 

Go for it you can do it!

 

You always have an extra set of hands right here if you need anything bro,

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2eDeYe' date='13 August 2010 - 11:29 AM' timestamp='1281724153' post='339001']

How much?

 

I was asking $500 as-is or $650 with the t-case, driveshafts, and Yota rear axle that fits the rear driveshaft. I got some interest, but I've had 4 people back out and a bunch of folks wanting just the T-case. Since the truck is useless as a project without the T-case, I won't sell it separately (if someone wanted the truck w/o the T-case, I'd keep the T-case as a spare anyway).

 

I'd finish the project myself, but I can't weld or fabricate- neither the equipment nor expertise, and the cost to have someone do it for me would exceed the value of the truck even finished. No sense spending $1200 on labor when the finished product might fetch $900. That's why a couple of my projects stalled- unless it's a pure bolt-in application not much I can do. And putting the effort into learning those trades to do the work myself would be nice, but I don't have the time and in any case this isn't a truck I really want to keep. Already have a functional 620 4X4; this one was a tow-yard rescue that I got roadworthy enough to drive.

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I seen your face. when he was semi-stuck. lol

 

Its all good though.

 

Go for it you can do it!

 

You always have an extra set of hands right here if you need anything bro,

 

hahahah fucking PRICELESS i bet! shoulda took a pic of me goin.. WTF? ahhahahhahaha!!

 

right on bro an same to you man, you know im down to throw a wrench into the mix!

 

I was asking $500 as-is or $650 with the t-case, driveshafts, and Yota rear axle that fits the rear driveshaft. I got some interest, but I've had 4 people back out and a bunch of folks wanting just the T-case. Since the truck is useless as a project without the T-case, I won't sell it separately (if someone wanted the truck w/o the T-case, I'd keep the T-case as a spare anyway).

 

I'd finish the project myself, but I can't weld or fabricate- neither the equipment nor expertise, and the cost to have someone do it for me would exceed the value of the truck even finished. No sense spending $1200 on labor when the finished product might fetch $900. That's why a couple of my projects stalled- unless it's a pure bolt-in application not much I can do. And putting the effort into learning those trades to do the work myself would be nice, but I don't have the time and in any case this isn't a truck I really want to keep. Already have a functional 620 4X4; this one was a tow-yard rescue that I got roadworthy enough to drive.

 

see same thing with me, i dont know how to weld, an i only know of a handfull of people who have welders an they're pretty cheap welders so idk if it would be a good idea to do any serious work with them..

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I was asking $500 as-is or $650 with the t-case, driveshafts, and Yota rear axle that fits the rear driveshaft. I got some interest, but I've had 4 people back out and a bunch of folks wanting just the T-case. Since the truck is useless as a project without the T-case, I won't sell it separately (if someone wanted the truck w/o the T-case, I'd keep the T-case as a spare anyway).

 

I'd finish the project myself, but I can't weld or fabricate- neither the equipment nor expertise, and the cost to have someone do it for me would exceed the value of the truck even finished. No sense spending $1200 on labor when the finished product might fetch $900. That's why a couple of my projects stalled- unless it's a pure bolt-in application not much I can do. And putting the effort into learning those trades to do the work myself would be nice, but I don't have the time and in any case this isn't a truck I really want to keep. Already have a functional 620 4X4; this one was a tow-yard rescue that I got roadworthy enough to drive.

 

Funny thing is you can get a used Dana 20 t-case for around $100, are people looking for some Datsun specific case?

Does it need the rear axle installed? I guess I'm sorta lost on what needs to be welded.

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