The video doesn't work for me.
I look at this and think how can that work with the pivot arm connected to the rear axle being 2 different lengths from its attachment point, it seems like the axle would either move sideways one way or the other a little, or it would bind.
What kind of mind can make this work, it has to be twisted, in my head I see 2 different arcs, the top longer arm I see when moved up and down a foot a slight smiley face/ flatter arc/curve, but the short arm when moved up and down that same foot, I see a big smile/more curved arc, now being the bottom half of that pivot arm is shorter, it would seem to me that the upper half of the pivot arm(longer half) would want to move a lot more than the upper arm will let it move.
It seems to me that the long arm should have the short side of the pivot arm, at least that is what I see in my head.
The video is in windows media player , trust me it works , a bit of a brain teaser , I had fun with this one ,especially dragging my ass with a crappy winter cold , how do I post a vid on here ?
Supercharged VG30 ,stretched 720 Pickup
Posted 07 January 2017 - 12:38 PM
Posted 07 January 2017 - 12:44 PM
When I click on the video kink in the post at DMT it takes me to your photolame account, all I get is a white box, I can go forward and backwards and look at your photos, but the video is just a white box when I view that link, there is nothing for me to click on.
Posted 07 January 2017 - 12:54 PM
If the video works follow the center bolt on the diff cover , line it up with the ribs on the back of the cab , you can see it goes straight up and down , still have to tidy up a couple of parts machine up some rod end spacers and finish welding it all out.
Let me know if that works please
Posted 07 January 2017 - 01:30 PM
That video worked fine for me.
I thought it would travel higher, if that is all the travel you have then what I was thinking doesn't even matter/come into play as there is no arc to speak of, as the arms/pivot don't move far enough.
I guess I thought too much about the one aspect without knowing the envelope of operation, it would have helped if I had seen the video before posting a reply.
Posted 07 January 2017 - 01:54 PM
I was amazed at how little the pivot moves in order to maintain a center , I made sue that the link rods were at the same angle , I checked my roll center and its close enough for me , still some fine tuning , this was the first time I cycled it , the jam nuts aren't even tight.
It can get overwhelming all the info out there , I wanted to do something different , and I have room now over the axle if I choose to run exhaust to the back ,as my build hasn't been challenging enough , I thought of it as 2 panhard bars needing to give a little so that they don't bind ? if that makes any sense to anyone .......gotta go fight my cold ( some rest ), thanks for the input
Posted 07 January 2017 - 02:05 PM
You have more time into this build than all my builds combined.
I would not have said a thing if that pivot arm had had the same length arms on it, but it didn't and all of a sudden all I see in my head are angles, arcs, and movements, it's torture sometimes being me, if I wasn't thinking all the time I might actually get some decent sleep, I wish I could dream this shit, but I lay there thinking about this crap and other crap.
Posted 11 January 2017 - 09:33 AM
1984 Nissan Patrol 160 L28E --->L28ET in progress
1983 Datsun Laurel C31 L24 --->VG30DET --->VH45DE
Posted 13 January 2017 - 06:09 PM
Still dragging my butt with the flu .......
But I got something done , still working on the parking brake , haven't decide on which caliper I will use .
Anyway here is the master in the bracket so far.
hope to get a bunch done this weekend .......
Posted 15 January 2017 - 07:27 PM
Well I didn't get as much done as I would have liked , still not feeling good ( Cold From Hell )
So here is where we are , got the little disc installed behind the flange and new pinion seal and nut .
I shortened the bolts and the head length to be sure of clearance on the diff .
Also cut the two big lugs off the diff were the antilock brake sensor goes , made a little plug , still have to make the retainer for it.
Painted the nose of the diff while it was stripped
Well that's it for now .............sorry not too exciting
Posted 18 January 2017 - 11:02 AM
Been a few pages since I check in. Holy crap this thread never disappoints!
- ]2eDeYe likes this
1973 2-door 510 build thread
Posted 18 January 2017 - 03:06 PM
It's interesting your diff didn't have holes in that flat bit at the nose (like what you just drilled). Most of those I've seen do.
It's your car, just don't ruin it.
It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option.
Posted 20 January 2017 - 10:39 AM
One must always remember with an e-brake setup like this that when one lifts either rear wheel off the ground, the front wheels must be chocked, especially with an open differential, this type of e-brake only works when BOTH rear wheels are FIRMLY on the ground.
I don't mean to be negative, but this e-brake type only keeps the drive line from turning, it doesn't stop the rear wheels from turning, so 99+ percent of all Datsuns on a hill will freely move when stopped and one rear wheel is lifted off the ground.
Posted 20 January 2017 - 04:56 PM
You mean there are Datsuns out there that don't have welded diffs??
That is the less than one percent I mentioned when I said 99+ percent, the ones with welded diffs and LSD's might not roll down the hill/driveway, but 99.9 percent of them have an e-brake system that uses the drums/rotors for the e-brake, not the driveline.