5 speed swap

[3.0trd]

ok, I have searched and searched, I know that mods need to be done to put a 5 speed in the 510, but I cant find anything that tells me WHAT needs to be modified!!!!! I have a 5 speed out of a 79 280z, where do I start, the tranny mount doesnt bolt up to the 510 crossmember, what do I do to make it fit? I know the shifter hole will need to be cut, not worried about that.

[izzo]

First thing is first, you will need a different or shortened driveline. The shifter sits further back so you need to cut some metal out of the trans tunnel. Then you need to mod the tranny xmember. think that is it (be sure to match up the flywheel/clutch/throw out etc...) You dont want to have a 225mm Clutch disc with a 200mm flywheel.

[3.0trd]

I have the shortened shaft, and the correct flywheel/clutch etc. my problem is HOW do I mod the member? just cut the z mount till it fits, or cut the member etc?

[INDY510]

Troy Ermish racing sells a new transmission crossmember for like $85........ ... I've had two of them on different 510s over the last 10 years........ and they are great...

 

 

But they are for the 79-83 280ZX trans into a 510.......... you said you have a 280z trans......... is it a 280z or 280zx?

[datzenmike]

He said it's a 5 speed from a '79 so it has to be a 280zx. :lol:

 

As for the clutch... use what's on the car. Hopefully the transmission comes with a clutch arm... just slip the release bearing housing that you have now onto it. (buy a new bearing though) Do not use the release bearing and housing on the 280z? zx? 5 speed if it comes with one.

[INDY510]

Also: the throwout bearing sleeve needs to be changed...

 

 

There are 2 diff slave cylinders: one has a smooth push rod, and a dimple in the clutch fork

 

the other has a threaded push rod and a hole in the clutch fork

[datzenmike]

 

As for the clutch... use what's on the car. Hopefully the transmission comes with a clutch arm... just slip the release bearing housing that you have now onto it. (buy a new bearing though) Do not use the release bearing and housing on the 280z? zx? 5 speed if it comes with one.

 

 

Also: the throwout bearing sleeve needs to be changed...

 

Only the tranny is being changed so the clutch/pressure plate/release bearing housing are staying with the motor and there is nothing to be changed. I would put a new bearing on the sleeve but that's all.

[Skib]

But they are for the 79-83 280ZX trans into a 510.......... you said you have a 280z trans......... is it a 280z or 280zx?

 

 

All Z car L6 trannys bolt up the same.

[LenRobertson]

I have the shortened shaft, and the correct flywheel/clutch etc. my problem is HOW do I mod the member? just cut the z mount till it fits, or cut the member etc?

 

I'm just finishing putting a dogleg 5-speed in my '72 auto 510. I built spacers to lower and reposition the crossmember following an article in the Volume 9 Issue 2 "Dime Quarterly". I used 1"X3"X6" 1/8" rectangular steel tubing for the spacers, which bolt to the floor pan where the crossmember originally bolted. Then the crossmember bolts to the spacer using studs through holes offset from the original holes. It seemed pretty simple in the article, and making the spacers wasn't bad, but it took me awhile to figure out the right length studs, and finding out the holes in the auto crossmember aren't quite the same location as the 4-speed crossmember. The DQ article seems to assume you are switching 4 to 5 speed rather than auto to 5. Since I've cleverly misplaced that issue, I'm not sure what they said for sure. Anyway, I had a 4-speed crossmember that fit the DQ plan spacers. I believe these spacers are designed to work for either dogleg or 280/truck trannies.

 

There is also a method I've read about using an auto crossmember turned 180 degrees, maybe with the holes slotted a bit, and using mid-1970s BMW trans mounts (two of them) in place of the original Datsun mount. Maybe someone has actually done this method and can give accurate details.

 

The special crossmember INDY510 mentions is probably the best solution if the cost doesn't bother you. I believe you must use a 280 trans mount with these, not the 510 mount.

 

I've read of having the stock crossmember cut and welded, but have never seen a description of just how this is done. I suppose once your 5-speed is in the car and you hold the crossmember up to it, it becomes apparent where to chop. If you have to pay a welder to do this, the $85 crossmember doesn't seem so expensive.

 

Len

[3.0trd]

thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to bolt the tranny to the motor, and drop it into the car and see what has to be done. good to know about the one from Ermish!

[LenRobertson]

I don't see any mention of the crossmember on the Ermish site http://www.ermish-racing.com/home.cfm but it would be worth contacting them. I believe there is someone in the Seattle area on the Bluebirds list who sometimes has these in stock for sale, or maybe another one like it. If you can find one within driving distance it would save shipping. Here is the page for the Bluebirds archives http://www.datsun510.com/bbmail/, but the Search feature is dead at the moment.

 

Looking back, I should have gotten one of these. It would have saved me a bit of time. I also have a slight exhaust clearance issue now. I swapped in an L20b, raising the exhaust manifold approx. 3/4", and dropped the trans crossmember 1", so my exhaust hits the crossmember. The pics I've seen of the Ermish style crossmember, it is bent from thick steel that drops down where the trans mount sits, but is high where the exhaust passes below it.

 

I've noticed when the subject of 5-speed swaps comes up, details on the crossmember are pretty thin. From what I've read, the auto crossmember with BMW mounts sounds relatively easy, and cheap depending on what the BMW mounts cost. But I haven't done it, so I can't be sure. I'm tempted to get another BMW mount at Pull n Save (have one already) just to try this method for my own education. But I would only do this if I had to drop my tranny for some reason. I haven't run my car yet to know if I have the right clutch sleeve so the clutch will work, so pulling it out again is a possibility. Be sure you understand throwout bearing sleeves in doing your swap. I've read a lot of my-clutch-won't-work posts after guys have done tranny swaps. I'm "sure" I did it right, but won't know for certain until I try the clutch.

 

Len

[Loren]

my '70 goon had a column shift automatic. when Dave and I swapped in the L20,and non-dogleg 5 speed we just switched the mount from the auto trans onto the 5 speed. it bolted right up,and bolted to the cross-member without much difficulty also. i don't remember turning the mount around,so i think it was a straight swap. this was my first datsun engine & trans swap,so i may have forgotten him showing me to turn it around,but i don't think so. I did have to have the driveline shortened,and I think i have a bad universal joint,so be sure to inspect & if necessary replace yours. also,if you're swapping in an L20 at the same time as the 5 speed, get a header,or use the L20 exhaust manifold. the L16 manifold is shorter and hits the body and bell-housing, causing alot of noise & vibration to be transmitted to the body and interior of the car. oh yeah, i almost forgot that we had to cut a hole in the tunnel for the shifter,since mine didn't have one already, being a column shift car originally. i used pedals from a manual trans car that i got from a wrecking yard. i had to switch the brake pedal,but left the gas pedal from the automatic. some people have to switch both,but i didn't need to. the clutch pedal and master cylinder bolted right in,& after some difficulty with a faulty master,or slave (both were new,and both were found faulty on the first install )everything works fine.