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U joint replacement


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#21 datzenmike

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 09:01 AM

My B-210 had the pressed in and staked in place, non replaceable U joints. Is this the case here? There will be no clips or the groove to hold them. If you look into the ends, to the bearing cap, you can see that something square has been pressed in to displace metal and hold the U joint in place.

 

A shop can drive them out and cut new grooves for the clips. This was certainly one of Nissan's bone head moves to make a high wear part totally non replaceable by the owner.


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#22 Draker

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 10:08 AM

My B-210 had the pressed in and staked in place, non replaceable U joints. Is this the case here? There will be no clips or the groove to hold them. If you look into the ends, to the bearing cap, you can see that something square has been pressed in to displace metal and hold the U joint in place.

 

A shop can drive them out and cut new grooves for the clips. This was certainly one of Nissan's bone head moves to make a high wear part totally non replaceable by the owner.

 

Like many new cars... ^^

 

Some of these have this plastic shit that holds them in.. then you just need to torch them out. Then you can replace. Not sure if Nissan used this design.


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#23 datzenmike

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 10:29 AM

My old '79 Cutlass was this way. Rather than heat I just 'shocked' them out in the usual way with a hammer. The grooves (at least) are there and new clips with the replacement U joints fit right in. I don't know of Nissan being this smart.
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#24 Mike210

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 10:58 AM

My U-joints are replaceable.  They look similar in design to the photos at the beginning of this thread.  They have the very same type of semi-circular clip holding them in, but the U-joint itself looks to be smaller.

I took some pictures.

 

Here is the replacement I received partially installed.  I am holding the old one next to it to show the difference in size.  The old one and new one have the same size of outer roller diameter, but the over-all width of the U-joint is smaller on the old one.

fc5929e2-6022-4752-8470-c011b2ff6df6_zps

 

 

Here is the Newer one in the Yoke.  It sort of fits, but when it's in the middle of the yoke, I won't be able to get the clips on.

d6fceeb4-ce80-4447-9478-3abd9603db79_zps

 

 

And so I'm wondering if I can just weld the ends of the roller caps a little bit to keep the U-joint in place?

Here is a picture.  I would weld just a little bit on the outside of the roller and the yoke next to where my thumb is:

e061a191-0cfa-4a79-8c1f-8159a865a154_zps

 

 

Welding scares me for two reasons, I might not get the U-joint centered as well as the clips would, which might make it vibrate.  Also, I am worried the weld would damage the roller.  I am not worried about replacing it in the future.  I don't plan to put THAT many more miles on the car.  (knock on wood).

 

Obviously, the best solution would be to get the correct U-joint, but I have not been able to find a part number anywhere for it.

 

Any recommendations?  There are some other parts shops I can try, but I reckon they will have the same incorrect on listed.

 

Thanks guys.

Mike

 

 



#25 datzenmike

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 12:41 PM

No welding. You will never get it exactly in place and the drive shaft will wobble and vibrate. Find the correct ones for it and preferably with a grease fitting to make them last longer.


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#26 5t341tH

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Posted 10 July 2015 - 01:32 PM

Hey thanks for the writeup mike. I have a couple questions. Is it best to replace all 3 at once? Or is it more of a "don't fix won't ain't broke"?
Also on the transmission side of the drive shaft, will anything leak out once I slide out the shaft? Thanks!

#27 datzenmike

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Posted 10 July 2015 - 04:24 PM

You can change them as needed. Only reason to do them all at once is there is less chance another one will fail and you don't have to remove everything all over again in 3 months to do the other one(s). Hell I've pulled one from an old used driveshaft in my shed and slapped it on my truck. I had time but no money.

 

Try to get the ones that you grease. More expensive but also more peace of mind.


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#28 5t341tH

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 09:58 AM

Yea you are right. Might as well do them all at the same time. I noticed rockauto lists them all as the same part number. Ordered all three. And will do them next weekend. So does anything leak out of the transmission side when the shaft is pulled out?

#29 Doctor510

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 10:10 AM

YUP, it will leak a bit unless you have the rear end jacked up for D/S removal.  Put an oil drip pan under there when you pull the slip yoke out.  Might as well replace the tail shaft seal while you're at it.



#30 datzenmike

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Posted 11 July 2015 - 11:44 AM

YUP, it will leak a bit unless you have the rear end jacked up for D/S removal.  Put an oil drip pan under there when you pull the slip yoke out.  Might as well replace the tail shaft seal while you're at it.

 

Oil may or may not run out. If you raise it do so from the back so it's easier to get at the drive shaft to remove. If on a lift expect some dripping. If raised from the front maybe drain transmission.

 

Yes, replace the seal. It's only $3 and just pry out with screw driver and place 2x4 chunk over new one and hammer in.


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#31 5t341tH

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Posted 22 July 2015 - 12:17 PM

Alright I finally got around to doing this. Took quite a while beating the old caps off the joints. One of them looked original. Installed the new ones but I think I might have messed up on one. After pressing the joint together, it was a bit difficult to move that joint. Took more effort to rotate it than the other two. Should I be worried? Also I couldn't replace my rear seal. I compared the old to my new one from rockauto and it looks different

#32 datzenmike

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Posted 22 July 2015 - 04:24 PM

The new ones may be thinner front to back. This will allow it to be driven farther into the tail. The reason? it will now be running on a fresh new surface that has never been used. Always grease or oil the new seal so that it does not start up dry.


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#33 EastBay521

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Posted 03 August 2016 - 03:19 PM

Pics in the 1st post dont work



#34 datzenmike

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Posted 03 August 2016 - 05:28 PM

Think they are now in the right order.


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#35 EastBay521

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Posted 03 August 2016 - 05:47 PM

Thank you.



#36 MikeRL411

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Posted 03 August 2016 - 11:03 PM

No welding. You will never get it exactly in place and the drive shaft will wobble and vibrate. Find the correct ones for it and preferably with a grease fitting to make them last longer.

 

Original U Joints normally have the grease fitting as part of the hub.  Aftermarket U Joints usually have the grease fitting at the top of one of the cross member Tees.  As long as the replacement has been designed to compensate for this apparent imbalance design you should have no problem!  Just remember to mark the input and output shaft and yoke alignment positions carefully and you should have no drive shaft balance problems.



#37 d.p

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 06:53 AM

Pics don't work anymore, Mike can you re-host?  



#38 datzenmike

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 06:59 AM

Eventually. I'm waiting to see which way it goes. 


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