Need some 411 wiring help.

[AZhitman]

Almost done with our restoration, and I have a few wires that didn't get labels when we pulled it all... Could use some help from someone with a 411 handy. I have the schematic, but I prefer to double-check (since sometimes Datsun wire colors aren't accurately depicted on the diagram).

 

First one is on the same harness as the alternator. I've got the 4-wire plug, and it's easy (obviously). There's 3 other wires - A heavier-gauge white wire, which I'm pretty sure goes on the small "post" terminal on the back of the alt, a yellow with black stripe (oil pressure switch), but then there's a medium-gauge black wire with a split-ring end on it. Does this one go to the alternator as well, or is it a body ground?

 

Also, I have the yellow wire with a bullet connector (same harness) - According to the schematic, this is for the temp sensor, but I can't for the life of me find where the hell the temp sensor goes on this engine!

 

Second questionable ones are a 4-wire harness that runs down along the back of the driver's side of the engine, and hangs near the transmission. There's 2 red with black stripe and 2 black with yellow stripe. According to the schematic, the red/black wires go to the reverse switch. Are the other 2 wires simply unused (maybe for a manual trans car?)

 

Lastly, it appears my reverse switch was removed when the trans was refurbished. Any idea which other Datsuns use the same switch? For now, I think I may just find a comparable bolt and block the hole (so that I can get the car on the road).

 

Any help is greatly appreciated - I wanna fire this thing up soon! :)

[gcmustang]

I will be happy to look at this tomorrow. I am really beat tonight or I would do it now. If you have not found anything by 4:30 tomorrow call me and I will walk though it with you over the phone. I will PM my number

[AZhitman]

Thanks Greg.

[MikeRL411]

Almost done with our restoration, and I have a few wires that didn't get labels when we pulled it all... Could use some help from someone with a 411 handy. I have the schematic, but I prefer to double-check (since sometimes Datsun wire colors aren't accurately depicted on the diagram).

 

First one is on the same harness as the alternator. I've got the 4-wire plug, and it's easy (obviously). There's 3 other wires - A heavier-gauge white wire, which I'm pretty sure goes on the small "post" terminal on the back of the alt, a yellow with black stripe (oil pressure switch), but then there's a medium-gauge black wire with a split-ring end on it. Does this one go to the alternator as well, or is it a body ground?

 

Also, I have the yellow wire with a bullet connector (same harness) - According to the schematic, this is for the temp sensor, but I can't for the life of me find where the hell the temp sensor goes on this engine!

 

Second questionable ones are a 4-wire harness that runs down along the back of the driver's side of the engine, and hangs near the transmission. There's 2 red with black stripe and 2 black with yellow stripe. According to the schematic, the red/black wires go to the reverse switch. Are the other 2 wires simply unused (maybe for a manual trans car?)

 

Lastly, it appears my reverse switch was removed when the trans was refurbished. Any idea which other Datsuns use the same switch? For now, I think I may just find a comparable bolt and block the hole (so that I can get the car on the road).

 

Any help is greatly appreciated - I wanna fire this thing up soon! :)

 

The black/yellow wires are for the Park/Neutral connection to the automatic transmission starter lockout relay on the passenger side of the engine compartment. The transmission switch has a 4 pin receptical on BW automatics that simply plugs in to the harness. Don't have a part number. This transmission was used in a potload of European cars including Volvo, SAAB, Fordand Mercury compacts and Chrystler imports [does anyone remember the Plymouth Cricket? It must have been imported for at least one week]. Your local Ford dealer might still have some BW transmission parts or know how to order them. Good luck!

[AZhitman]

The black/yellow wires are for the Park/Neutral connection to the automatic transmission starter lockout relay on the passenger side of the engine compartment. The transmission switch has a 4 pin receptical on BW automatics that simply plugs in to the harness. Don't have a part number. This transmission was used in a potload of European cars including Volvo, SAAB, Fordand Mercury compacts and Chrystler imports [does anyone remember the Plymouth Cricket? It must have been imported for at least one week]. Your local Ford dealer might still have some BW transmission parts or know how to order them. Good luck!

 

Thanks Mike, that helps - Is that switch on the side of the transmission? If so, which side?

 

Mine looks to have an open port (threaded hole) on the driver's side of the trans, which I thought might be the reverse switch (but I could be wrong). Didn't see anything "missing" anywhere else on the trans.

[MikeRL411]

Thanks Mike, that helps - Is that switch on the side of the transmission? If so, which side?

 

Mine looks to have an open port (threaded hole) on the driver's side of the trans, which I thought might be the reverse switch (but I could be wrong). Didn't see anything "missing" anywhere else on the trans.

 

Remember, this is the British Borg=Warner transmission. The switch, for the US and Canadian market is on the transmission's left [uS driver's] side. For the right hand drive nations it's on the right hand [british rules driver's] side. So you do have a mounting hole on either side. This allows for a single basic part number. Your harness removes this ambiguity by routing the 2 wires to the left side of the transmission. When you install the switch, you put an ohm meter, or battery and lamp, across the 2 connections for the started lockout [yellow/black wires], tweak it until you have continuity and then the fun starts. Turn clockwise 'til you lose continuity, note the spot. Go counter clockwise [or since this is a British transmission, anti clockwise] through continuity until you lose continuity again. set the position half way between these 2 locations and yout starter and backup lights will work properly.

[AZhitman]

Remember, this is the British Borg=Warner transmission. The switch, for the US and Canadian market is on the transmission's left [uS driver's] side. For the right hand drive nations it's on the right hand [british rules driver's] side. So you do have a mounting hole on either side. This allows for a single basic part number. Your harness removes this ambiguity by routing the 2 wires to the left side of the transmission. When you install the switch, you put an ohm meter, or battery and lamp, across the 2 connections for the started lockout [yellow/black wires], tweak it until you have continuity and then the fun starts. Turn clockwise 'til you lose continuity, note the spot. Go counter clockwise [or since this is a British transmission, anti clockwise] through continuity until you lose continuity again. set the position half way between these 2 locations and yout starter and backup lights will work properly.

 

Ugh. Joy. :(

 

Thanks Mike! Now I just have to find the replacement switch, since the trans shop appears to have removed it. :(

 

EDIT: OK, so you're saying there's only one switch (with 4 pins) that handles reverse lights AND starter lockout relay functions? I'm assuming so, since I have 4 wires to contend with...

 

Thanks again - a TON!

 

Trying to wrap this thing up and get her sorted for JCCS - I'm not in "panic mode" yet, but time is flying! ;)

[AZhitman]

OK, now I'm in panic mode.

 

No one seems to list a "switch" for the BW 35 auto trans... Am I chasing something unobtainable? Should I (better yet, CAN I) just "jump" these wires and do without reverse lights for now?

[Paul G.]

You can leave the reverse light wires disconnected, just make sure to insulate the connectors because one of them has 12 volts on it when the ignition switch is on. You don't want that one to short out to the vehicle. If you just connected the 2 wires together the reverse lights would always be on.

 

If for any reason you do not have a working start inhibit switch (the yellow and black wires) they can be jumpered together, but then you car would try to start in any gear any time you hit "start."

[MikeRL411]

OK, now I'm in panic mode.

 

No one seems to list a "switch" for the BW 35 auto trans... Am I chasing something unobtainable? Should I (better yet, CAN I) just "jump" these wires and do without reverse lights for now?

Answering 2 for 1 here. Yes, there is a single switch for both functions. In searching for a part, you might have to get creative with nomenclature. "Ignition lock out", "Reverse switch","Combination switch" "Neutral lock out" or just plain, therefor improbable "Lockout switch".

 

By the way, since things are missing, do you have the lockout relay to go with all those yellow/black wires? If not, save yourself trouble. Disconnect the yellow/black at the dashboard ignition switch and run a new wire directly to the starter solenoid. Yes, you could then start in gear, but that's how manual transmission cars are wired anyway.

[MikeRL411]

Transmission switch

 

Just checked with my son who is a ASE certified automatic transmission and transaxle technician on nomenclature. It varies by transmission manufacturer and is typically "Neutral Switch", "Neutral lockout switch", "Neutral safety switch" or "Neutral interrupt switch", so I looked up what it is called in my very old Chiltons "Datsun 1961 to 1972" manual and they refer to it as "Neutral Safety and Backup Light Switch" which is so awkward it must be the BW nomenclature. Terminals 1 and 3 are the neutral safety switch and 2 and 4 are the backup light switch. Among all the information given there, no part number. http://www.datsunparts.com/1506 might have a transmissions section, they have a very good index and list some amazing parts availabilities.

 

Happy hunting

[AZhitman]

Hi Mike - I'm assuming this is the lockout relay - it's unidentified in any schematic I've seen, and it's not on any ofther 411 I've looked at:

 

 

After I jumped the two black/yellow wires (that were to connect to the lockout switch on the trans), when I click the key, this part buzzes (but no activity at the starter).

 

Incidentally, this part has a little rubber pushbutton at the top. If I depress it when trying the key, nothing.

 

OK, so if I wire direct from ignition to solenoid, I'm wondering if I'll then need to disconnect any of these or if it's a complete bypassing of the relay (if that's indeed what it is).

[MikeRL411]

Hi Mike - I'm assuming this is the lockout relay - it's unidentified in any schematic I've seen, and it's not on any ofther 411 I've looked at:

 

 

After I jumped the two black/yellow wires (that were to connect to the lockout switch on the trans), when I click the key, this part buzzes (but no activity at the starter).

 

Incidentally, this part has a little rubber pushbutton at the top. If I depress it when trying the key, nothing.

 

OK, so if I wire direct from ignition to solenoid, I'm wondering if I'll then need to disconnect any of these or if it's a complete bypassing of the relay (if that's indeed what it is).

 

1- That's the correct starter relay [by the "automobile electric company" to translate]. Located right below the voltage regulator. The Chilton book I referenced is the only source I have seen that includes a schematic for the Automatic Transmission equipped car or wagon. The driver's handbook has the schematic [very thorough weren't they?] for the manual version only.

 

2- If you depress the "rubber button" it should at least buzz. I suspect a broken wire at the plug on the end of your harness. That was what I found on my sedan. But then my relay buzzed, you might have a bad connection of the Black/yellow at the ignition key end. A lot easier to check and repair since of course the connection at the transmission neutral interlock is in a most awkward position to probe and check, not to mention reterminate.

 

3- If you choose to wire up like the manual transmission version, the wires in the neutral switch will still be there broken or not. I would disconnact one of the black with yellow tracer wires at the starter relay and heat shrink 2 end terminating caps over the spade lug and tape it back carefully. You might want to fully restore it someday.

[AZhitman]

For now, I've routed a new wire from the ignition direct to the starter, which allowed me to at least crank the new engine.

 

Next step is to figure out priming the fuel pump (system is dry, tank is full).

[MikeRL411]

For now, I've routed a new wire from the ignition direct to the starter, which allowed me to at least crank the new engine.

 

Next step is to figure out priming the fuel pump (system is dry, tank is full).

Remember, you need premium unleaded gas. A poor substitute for the nominal 96 octane leaded gas the engine was designed for, but it works. 92 octane [R+M/2] is approximately equivalent to the old 96 octane pump rating.

Assuming you still have the glass bowl and rag bag fuel filter, this is how I did it after I rebuilt my engine.

1- unscrew the AN fitting attached to the right angled inlet to the fuel bowl. Insert a small funnel [there's one hiding in the kitchen] and backfill the line down to the fuel pump.

2- Reconnect the fitting and disconnect the flex fuel hose connection over to the engine. Do the funnel and gas bit again to ensure that fuel is at the carb inlet bowls. Optional, take a short lengh of hose and fill the glass bowl. Reconnect the flex line and replace the clamp type with a screw type hose clamp. Looks aren't everything.

3- go to each SU and jiggle the spring loaded wire protruding below the fuel bowl. This ensures that the float valve isn't stuck and just happens to splash some fuel into the SU main body. "That's not how it's supposed to happen" but it works especially on a cold rainy night after your car has sat in an airport parking lot for a week.

4-floor the gas pedal and turn the key. You might have to pump the pedal a few times, depends on how many air bubbles are left in the input gas line.

 

If you have an aftermarket or plastic 510 type gas filter the process is the same less unscrewing the AN fitting.