E1 carb swap(weber DFV)

[mklotz70]

I'm not done with this swap yet, but I didn't want to get too backlogged on pics and vids. :)

 

I'm in the process of switching out the Nikki carb on the E1 for a DFV. Some of this info will be usable by the L series guys too.

 

Some of the pics are for reference since the vids should pretty much cover most of the info.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[mklotz70]

As I was looking for something else, I came across my other adapter. :) This is the thin one that everyone wants. I'm thinking these would be simple enough to waterjet out of 1/4...or probably 3/8" aluminum.

 

 

[mklotz70]

bit more progress.

 

 

 

 

[mklotz70]

Spent the morning working on the CAD art for the adapter. The first pic kinda gives an idea of my progression. Start with a sketch of dimensions. I started with a full rectangle. I did full center holes, but only the top half small holes. I rough in the dimensions, then do a print of the .dft file which comes out exactly 1:1. I keep adjusting, printing, comparing to the part, re-adjusting, re-printing.....about 25 prints later, I have the print lining up exactly how I want it. I then put a line through the middle of the rectangle, trimmed off everything below it, then did a mirror of the top half. That way, I only had to fiddle with the top 3 holes instead of all 6. There's probably an easier way, but I'm a CAD newbie. :) Anyway....the .dft file gets the center lines on the holes so that I can use it as a template when I go to hand fab the part.

 

Once I've got the .dft(draft) file how I want it, I use the dimensioning commands in program give me my dimensions and save it as a different file name. This file has all the measurements needed, but is pretty cluttered to use as a template. I then did a file with the dimensions coming from the top left corner. I dimensioned from the corner to the first hole, then from there to the second and so on. What that gives me is a print for using on the mill. I can reference X and Y to the top left corner, dial to the first set of measurements on the DRO and set a memory point. I dial to the next and set another memory point. I keep going for all 8 holes. If I were fab'ing multiple plates, I'd just put the next plate in the vise against a stop and dial to each memory point. I'm not sure if I'm going to do that, but as long as I was in the CAD program, I figured, why not? :)

 

I also do a dxf file with none of the centering or dimensions. This file will go the the waterjet cutter. He'll add the start/stops and tool paths. I've got to check one or two things with the bolts I'm going to use....that will determine if I'm going to have them done in 3/8" or 1/2" plate. In the dxf file, the two holes on the far right are slightly smaller diameter since I will let the waterjet cut the holes to be pilot holes. The holes need to be sized correctly for a tap to thread them. Rather than try to get the waterjet to cut them that precisely, I will plan on drilling and tapping them myself. Having a pilot hole means it can be done in the drill press instead of the mill.

 

 

 

[AtomChurch]

Beautiful. haha. I took cad in high school and after you get used to it you wont have to make 25 prints! haha however I still make a lot whenever I use it also.

 

great work as usual Mr. Klotz 2.0 :D

[mklotz70]

Thanks Atom :) ....beautiful or not, I get to tweak it tomorrow....I did a test drilling of the two most critical holes and found that my drawing is off by .020" :( Oh well. I'm sure glad I did a test drilling!!!!

 

Kinda hard to tell in the last pic, but the holes are too far apart by about .020...which is about the thickness of a credit card for those of you less familiar with "thousandths" :) Anyway....I could probably get away with drilling the holes a bit over sized, but I want them really close if I'm going to use the countersunk bolts. If I use normal allen head bolts, I'll have to use 1/2" thick plate. If I use countersunk, I can go for 3/8". On a 510 with an L20, ever bit counts. On my NL...it won't matter, but I'm looking at who else may use these. Putting my fingers in the last pic was simply to help the camera focus. :)

 

...oh...I put the calipers to the intake and then compared that to my drawing... .021...so my guess from looking at it was pretty close :)

 

 

 

[mklotz70]

I put the vids of the machine work in the machine work thread :) http://community.ratsun.net/topic/8292-lets-see-some-machine-work/page__view__findpost__p__328028

 

 

 

So after using the mill to take the measurements I needed, I drilled another test piece....fit awesome! I'll start making the plate tonight.

 

[mklotz70]

I'm still going to move forward on making the plate, but I decided that I didn't want to waste any daylight on the CAD program......and that I needed to figure out the cable issues. So, I did up some gaskets for the two piece adapter and put it on for now. I've been trying to throw in a couple of pics for those guys that don't have time or computer speed to watch the vids.....on are checking this from a cell phone :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On to the cable. I'm not positive, but considering how much 521 stuff I have laying around, the new throttle cable is most likely from a 521.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[mklotz70]

Getting late...hopefully the pics will explain. I was going to go to bed early, but I got a wild hair and had to fab a quick bracket. :) In the final photo, you can see that I still need to tweak the angle of the upper bend. I may use this for now, but it's intended to be a temporary bracket....proof of concept if you will. :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[mklotz70]

...can only load so many pics per post ....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[mklotz70]

I finished this up today....kinda had to so the rig the new owner could test drive it :) I'll post up the pics and then the fab vids. The NL ran sooo much better than it did with the stock carb. But, I did find the cable and linkage (would have made it a 5 min fix) while digging for parts that go with the sale. Anway....I took a bunch of vid that those new to fab work might like. :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[mklotz70]

Dang this is one long page! Maybe a couple of extra posts will get it to start a 2nd. :)

[mklotz70]

maybe not?

[mklotz70]

is there a way to force it to start page 2?

[mklotz70]

oh well....here's a bunch....and I mean a bunch!!! of vids about fabricating/modifying the air cleaner to fit the DFV. Some of them get a bit long and they're probably only of interest to the brand new fabricators. :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[mklotz70]

Arrived yesterday... :)

 

The holes need to be drilled out for clearance and tapping, but it looks like they should work. They may just stay like this since I don't have much of a need for them now :)

 

[fisch]

Dude Mike, just found this via your other thread. I swear man you are a Datsun SAINT!!!!

[mklotz70]

Dude Mike, just found this via your other thread. I swear man you are a Datsun SAINT!!!!

 

Thanks! :) but...probably not a saint...maybe a cherub or something :) My parts will fade away long before you art does!!

[jon521]

This may seem like a simple question, but i am still pretty new at this. I have a weber dfav and i am planning on putting it on my 521 L16, do i need two adapter plates for my weber to fit?

[mklotz70]

IIRC, you have to get it up off the mani more because the swing of the butterfly arm is backwards and the arm has to be mounted on the bottom. Datsunaholic probably knows more than anyone else I know about the dfav on L series engines. I've only put one on an E1.

 

Do your searching in google "__________;ratsun.net" and you'll have a much easier time finding info on here. :)

[jon521]

awesome, thank you!