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thinking of turbos


67wrx

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Not a wagon, or a R16, but I do have a Roadster with a U20 (basically an OHC R16)I did a turbo/efi on. It's hella tight in a roadster so I would imagine it's gonna be even worse in a wagon. May be easier with a draw thru? While the car is complete and running, it is not easy to see the whole thing, so here are a couple individual pics of the components

 

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Mark

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The real problem with trying to turbo a RL411 or WRL411 is the super tight clearance, or lack therof, between the intake and exhaust manifolds and the brake master cylinder, steering column, starter and the inner fender, That's why the exhaust manifold, intake manifold air cleaner housing and filter size and even the tilt angle of the SU carbs and fuel float bowls were modified, Even then, a new 2 into 1 adapter and exit through the inner fender for the exhaust was required. Given enough time and money I am sure something could be shoe-horned in but I'm not the one to try it.

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Awsome work mang! Love the creative use of space :cool: is the intake stainless? Want to make intakes easier and am worried about them rustin up inside :unsure: Want to turbo an A12A sometime and am inspired by your setup! :P

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Awsome work mang! Love the creative use of space :cool: is the intake stainless? Want to make intakes easier and am worried about them rustin up inside :unsure: Want to turbo an A12A sometime and am inspired by your setup! :P

 

Yes, Intake is 316 stainless. Went this route for 2 reasons. 1- have easy access to the material. 2- I am not the greatest aluminum welder. :(

 

 

Dont look like you left much room for a heat shield. but you may not be to that point yet.

 

The car has been finished and driving for 2 years. There is a heat shield between the turbo and inner fender and also between the turbo and hood on the finished product. As a measure of added protection, the turbine housing is ceramic coated.

 

Mark

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Rule #1.... Never over carb or cam any motor. If bigger was better wouldn't we all be running 1180 Holly double pumpers???? An L16 revved to 8,000 RPM requires only 225cubic feet per minute of flow. And that's 8K!!! I think the Weber 32/36 is around 270cfm. So good enough.

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Rule #1.... Never over carb or cam any motor. If bigger was better wouldn't we all be running 1180 Holly double pumpers???? An L16 revved to 8,000 RPM requires only 225cubic feet per minute of flow. And that's 8K!!! I think the Weber 32/36 is around 270cfm. So good enough.

 

if thats the case then why cant mine rev past 4500 in 5th gear?

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if thats the case then why cant mine rev past 4500 in 5th gear?

 

Several things.

 

Depending on gears you may be going fast enough the the motor isn't making enough power at 4,500 to push through the air. In order to double your speed from 50 to 100 MPH you need 4 times the power!!! This is called power limited. In some cases it's possible to go faster in third! than 4th.

 

If your engine is mated to a carb that is too small (possibly for economy reasons) a larger carb will increase power but there is an upper end to this and you can't keep going bigger and bigger forever. The biggest carb in the world won't make a 90 hp L20B make 200hp. Yes there can be some increase by going to a slightly larger carb. Too big is not only a waste of carb and time but will start to affect the low speed drive ability.

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You are SPOT ON though, It idles high(2000), loads up a little with gas, and has a super bad dead spot when in gear in the low RPMs (1000 and below) Nothing that a bigger cam and some valve springs cant cure!

 

I guess the thing to remember is that there are sacrifices you may have to make for the hot car you want. It very well may be a real bear to drive in traffic bla bla bla. To me its all worth it, but then again I got another one(GooN) to drive thats stock(Fairly) and slammed(Very)

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Rule #1.... Never over carb or cam any motor. If bigger was better wouldn't we all be running 1180 Holly double pumpers???? An L16 revved to 8,000 RPM requires only 225cubic feet per minute of flow. And that's 8K!!! I think the Weber 32/36 is around 270cfm. So good enough.

 

This includes cams too. They will move the power higher in the RPM range so your flat spot will get wider and deeper.

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  • 3 months later...

This includes cams too. They will move the power higher in the RPM range so your flat spot will get wider and deeper.

 

not always true. if u go with a huge torque cam it will keep it in a relatively low rpm since thats where most of ur torque is made

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not always true. if u go with a huge torque cam it will keep it in a relatively low rpm since thats where most of ur torque is made

 

I believe where your torque comes in is more affected by your manifolding, but its sure as heck that a race cam is not going to give you low end grunt. up your lift but keep the duration short like a truck camshaft.

 

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And for selecting a carburetor on a turbo engine... an L16 @ 225CFM N/A would require approximately 450CFM at one BAR of boost, correct? That could be covered by a holley 2bbl which gives you identical adjustability of a standard holley 4bbl but just half the size.

We run a holley 2bbl on our race trucks with a chevy 305 and pull out 420hp. Jet it smaller and you'll be set!

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