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Anybody running single Weber DCOE here?


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I got a set of Mikuni 44s with nissan comp isolators and long runner intake for $500 bucks and I know Troy just sold a set of BRAND NEW Mikuni 44s never even mounted on a car for 1100 bucks so I guess that price is ok maybe a little high if you ask me

 

 

Yep, that was me who bought them 44's. I found Wolf Creek Racing has a set of NOS 44'S for $1000 also.

 

I was going with ITB's but decided I would spend the money on other more needed parts.

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Yep, that was me who bought them 44's. I found Wolf Creek Racing has a set of NOS 44'S for $1000 also.

 

I was going with ITB's but decided I would spend the money on other more needed parts.

 

T.S. you LUCKY bastard :lol: I wanted those bad but considering I have 2 sets of 44s and no more cash... well they went to a good home on another awesome project :eek: CARS LOOK GREAT by the way

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69FJwagon

there was or maybe still is the single resivor master cylinders that were sold so you could run the airhorns.

 

I just cut the ther last airhorn on a belt sander myself and called it good.

 

Never actually seen short airhorns for a 44 mikuni

 

TWM has them in a few lengths also in Carbon fiber but for a premium price :eek:

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  • 1 month later...

I found some tuning tips,I have some spare cash and I am goint to attack her and get it running, Still need good Transmission and some small shit to do it. I have 100.00 bucks for a 5 speed if anybody has one to sell. DCOE tuning tips:http://members.aol.com/dvandrews/webers.htm

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i got a single and i can tell you its great fun:D

 

i have had a lot of tuning issues with a stock eng with it tho. theres too much fuel and air for the stock system to cope with. i really need a cam and upgraded spark to get it to not run rich but you could tune a dcoe to work on a stock eng, but thats gonna take a long time of sniffing tail pipes n plugs, buying and mixing and matching parts to get the right mixture. better off getting the recomended jets for your application, the manufactures assume that you already have a "performance" engine with upgrades, like a prerequisite.

 

i do foul out plugs 2 and 3 alot :glare:

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The info I put on above has a bunch of good stuff. Starting with using the correct size venturi for each application. That is the single most important factor. That basically changes the CFM of the Weber.

 

From there it's a matter of following some basic formulas: Main Jet= Venturi x 4...so a 32 Venturi would call for a 128 Main Jet.

 

Air corretor = Main Jet + 50, or a 178 Correction Jet.

 

Emmulsion tube for a stock or slightly modded 2000c is a F16 or F2

 

Air Jet is 50/55. :blink:

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im not trying to discount your info, i have had that page bookmarked for @ least a year. if you want a tear down/repair manual from italy pm me your e-mail and ill get it to you.

 

i was more trying to point out that i slapped it on and have had a lot of trouble to get it to run right. the DCOE is a race carb, not a progressive daily driver. my biggest mistake was spending the time to get it to work with my stock coil. i dont know about datsuns but a 30yr old toyota coil just isnt up to snuff to properly tune a weber.

 

i use that link and bounce around the "official weber" sites for info

 

http://www.redlineweber.com

 

http://www.webercarbs.com

 

http://www.racetep.com/webjettune.html

 

 

bottom line that all the old farts ive talked to and most tech ive read is this:

 

make sure the rest of your car is up to snuff for a racing performance upgrade B4 you begin tuning.

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  • 4 weeks later...
69FJwagon

there was or maybe still is the single resivor master cylinders that were sold so you could run the airhorns.

 

I just cut the ther last airhorn on a belt sander myself and called it good.

 

Never actually seen short airhorns for a 44 mikuni

 

 

FWIW, If you use the Rallyesport intake manifold, there's no clearance issue at the brake master.

 

http://www.rallye-sport.com/catalog4.htm#intake

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