sssr20det510 Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 Saw your car at canby Looking good, keep it up Quote Link to comment
jncbot Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 Love your 610 bro!!! Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted June 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 Thanks guys :) A couple days ago I was going through my things and found a couple matchbox dizzy's. Don't know how these baby's have gone so long without being used, but I decided to see how my 610 would respond to one. Here's the stock points distributor and coil. Exciting, no? Mmmm.. points.. Not a whole lot goes into this mod, but instead of doing what a lot of write-ups suggest and cutting/splicing into the stock wiring(of which I am opposed), I made the stock wiring work for my purposes. Since I would be replacing the points coil with a coil intended for use w/ electronic ignition, I saw no need to keep the ballast resistor. Both came out. Before I removed any connections from the coil or ballast, I drew myself up a diagram in order to re-use the stock wiring in the event that I want to go back to the factory ignition(Seeing as how I won't be doing any cutting on the factory wiring, it wouldn't be difficult put it back to original). In this 610, all the wiring that goes to the coil and ballast resistor is connected to the main wiring harness via a connector plug. Pretty nifty. Pics of the plug and stock coil(prior to wire removal) After having to re-think the original wiring for a minute or two(to work with the matchbox distributor), everything was a snap. Pulled out the old dizzy and slid in the new one. Old cap fit right on, and the new coil was installed as well. I used a hardly used MSD Blaster 2 coil that I'd been tripping over and banging my shins on for the past year. After all was done, I went and put the keys to it. Fired right up. I readjusted the timing and took her for a spin. Smoooooooth. Ran like a dream. Brought her back and let her cool down before re-gapping the spark plugs to .041". I recommend this upgrade to anybody that hasn't done it yet. Fairly inexpensive, and gives you results you notice immediately. Good stuff. ;) 1 Quote Link to comment
skunk Posted June 23, 2010 Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 nice, iv got a ele dizzy and the coil for my 510 just siting in my stuff. :rolleyes: not sure why i havnt got it on yet Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted June 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 I think I always overlooked this upgrade because it was so simple. Seems like I would feel better about pulling a transmission in order to swap in a 5-speed. :blink: I think this took me MAYBE a half hour total. If I were going to cut and splice into the wiring, I would have been done quicker. It's sooo easy man, and sooo worth it.. ...just do it :) Quote Link to comment
jncbot Posted June 23, 2010 Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 This is great! Skunk was telling me to do this, the guy I got my rims from today said the same thing, and offered to help with the install aswell...and now u got pics and pretty much a walk thru.....I'm totally doing it this week!! We got my 610 to start and run for a little bit today..... fucking points needed a minor adjustment was pretty much the only problem! I gotta go electric!!! I'm really bummed I was only at canby on sat, and didn't get so see ur car in person. I love that u have a 76 auto too(for now....ur doing the 5spd swap right?) Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted June 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 Yeah man, I'm hoping to do the 5-speed swap. Don't get me wrong; I like cruising the 610, but I wanna drive it :cool: . I think I'm gonna have to end up making my own pedals.. nobody's got any anywhere. <_< On Saturday I was parked outside. I was only there for maybe an hour, but I came back Sunday and parked w/ the rest of the Datsuns. Glad to hear someone on here scooped up that 610 in Eugene. If you didn't, I would have. And as far as the dizzy goes, do it. You won't regret it. I'm glad to hear you got that thing fired. Now just keep it running :) Quote Link to comment
jncbot Posted June 23, 2010 Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 I'm keeping mine auto just cuz I'm kinda lazy....and city driving sucks in Eugene. I think I want a z when I go proformance, and I'll make sure I get a stick then :) yeah, I'll be watching this build...keep up the great work!! And I'll prolly pick ur brain sometime this summer about how u lowered her! So mean looking!!! Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 micro be forewarned going from auto to stick you will have to cut the floor i know your opposed to cutting so i figured i would tell you now Quote Link to comment
Jassifrass Posted June 24, 2010 Report Share Posted June 24, 2010 I'm keeping mine auto just cuz I'm kinda lazy....and city driving sucks in Eugene. I think I want a z when I go proformance, and I'll make sure I get a stick then :) yeah, I'll be watching this build...keep up the great work!! And I'll prolly pick ur brain sometime this summer about how u lowered her! So mean looking!!! Eugene isnt that bad dude, Portland or even Salem is far far worse. We got a lot of one ways which confuse people but not a lot of traffic anywhere... :P Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted June 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 So I finally got my shocks for the rear. Turns out that Tokico no longer makes the 68 Camaro shocks, so I had to figure something else out. I researched and where my budget ended me up at was deciding between either Bilstein HD's or Koni Reds. I read mixed reviews, but finally found a smokin' deal on some Bilstein's. I threw the money down, and waited. A couple days later, the nice man in the brown uniform brought me these. "... and 'zis is how we say suspension in Germany, Doctor Jones..." :D Got em out and checked em over. My Dubbin' buddies are really into these things, but I had yet to taste the glory. Looked pretty legit, though. Old shock. The camaro shock is considerably shorter, and that's exactly what I wanted for my low. I didn't get any pics of the stock shocks at full droop, but there was quite a bit. With these Bilsteins, there isn't much at all. Got everything buttoned up, and took her for a spin. Good gravy this thing rides awesome now! She's definitely recovered her long lost cornering competence; threw me off guard at the first corner. Feels like driving a completely different vehicle now. I'd like to put some gas shocks up front now, too. :) Edit: I forgot to put the part number in this post, so for anyone interested in getting some of these, they are part number AK2074 Bilstein shocks for a 68 Camaro w/ Multileaf. Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 Good Stuff. I can't wait to tackle the suspension issues (last on my list) Thanks for the heads up on the Camaro shocks. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted June 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2010 Good Stuff. I can't wait to tackle the suspension issues (last on my list) Thanks for the heads up on the Camaro shocks. :thumbup: Depending on what you do for the rear springs, I would recommend these shocks. I forgot to put the part number, but it is AK2074. They're meant for the 68 Camaro w/ Multileaf springs in the rear, which from what I've read are rated at about 135#. The D50 springs that I am using are normally rated at about 130#, but I cut a little off, and am throwing a wild number out there that they're possibly now at about 150#. These shocks are apparently good for up to 50% higher than what they're originally intended for, so that puts my springs right in the middle. The ride is firm, but not rough. You can feel the road, but it's not a kidney buster. Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted June 28, 2010 Report Share Posted June 28, 2010 Depending on what you do for the rear springs, I would recommend these shocks. I forgot to put the part number, but it is AK2074. They're meant for the 68 Camaro w/ Multileaf springs in the rear, which from what I've read are rated at about 135#. The D50 springs that I am using are normally rated at about 130#, but I cut a little off, and am throwing a wild number out there that they're possibly now at about 150#. These shocks are apparently good for up to 50% higher than what they're originally intended for, so that puts my springs right in the middle. The ride is firm, but not rough. You can feel the road, but it's not a kidney buster. I took half a coil off some 1 inch lowering springs that I had bought a while back. Got the correct ride height. The website says the springs were some insane 372 lb/in, but IDK, knocking off half a coil might put me in the 400 lb/in (another wild number...). My shocks are some Sears style my dad bought after he bought the car (call it almost 30 years old). Any new shock will be a major improvement. I have the engine to get running with the old '73 stock header and about 8 feet of OEM exhaust plumbing. Scare the neighbors before I go taking it to the exhaust shop for the finale. Brakes, Suspension and finally Interior and I *might* have it ready for JCCS. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted June 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2010 I forgot how the math goes, but by the time you figure in the leverage of the trailing arms, it reduces that spring rating quite a bit. I can't remember off the top of my head, but unless you use coilovers for the rear, the rating on the spring changes. To make the rears equal to my 275# in the front of my 510, I was going to have to get about 1100# springs for the rear. Looks like it's around 4:1 or something, but I'd definitely double check that; I'm sure that's not correct(I was just using those numbers to illustrate my point). I am not sure if it's the same for 610s, but I imagine it's not much different. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted June 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2010 micro be forewarned going from auto to stick you will have to cut the floor i know your opposed to cutting so i figured i would tell you now Eegh.. about how much? I thought the auto tunnel was larger than the manual? Or are you just talking about the opening to which the shifter would come up through? Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted June 28, 2010 Report Share Posted June 28, 2010 I forgot how the math goes, but by the time you figure in the leverage of the trailing arms, it reduces that spring rating quite a bit. I can't remember off the top of my head, but unless you use coilovers for the rear, the rating on the spring changes. To make the rears equal to my 275# in the front of my 510, I was going to have to get about 1100# springs for the rear. Looks like it's around 4:1 or something, but I'd definitely double check that; I'm sure that's not correct(I was just using those numbers to illustrate my point). I am not sure if it's the same for 610s, but I imagine it's not much different. If that is the case, then I'm going to have roughly 100# springs...Interesting... Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted June 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2010 I just looked it up, and the leverage ratio is 3.8:1. So if you're dealing with a 400lb spring, it should translate to a 105lb wheel rate with the motion ratio of the rear suspension(assuming it is the same as a 510). Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted July 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 Alright. So here's the part of the 610 I've been putting off, and in the back of my mind hoping that I could just forget about. Here we go.. The tail light panel has some rust issues that look like have stemmed from an injury that wasn't ever addressed. :( I pulled off the license plate, trim, bumper and taillight, bracing myself for the worst. The panel was pushed in and with the bare metal exposed, started to rust. The surface rust became cancer, and has really done a nasty number on the back end of my girl. As a result of this negligence, water has gotten into the trunk and run along the seamline and caused other nasty issues... All I could do with it for now is scrub off the excess rust scale and flaky paint and treat it with rust-mort. I hate to think what it's gonna take to remedy this, but it's better to face the ugly truth than neglect it like the PO's did. I was also able to tap the panel out a bit, so that it wasn't caved in like it had been. It's gonna be a process to get the body lines back, but it can be done.. here are some shots after the rust treatment and some persuading with the body hammers. Like I said, this is the part I've been putting off, but it's better addressed sooner than later. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted July 8, 2010 Report Share Posted July 8, 2010 Seen worst man, i know you can get that fixed up pretty easy. Looks like its in spots that can be well hidden too so even if its not perfect should be ok Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted July 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 Ok, so it's been a while since I added anything to my project thread. I've been far too busy driving and enjoying the 610 to do any work on it :) So today I decided that i was going to take care of a problem that's had me a bit concerned. The J-Line trim on the driver's side has been hanging off near the top since I got the car. Observe. This is troubling to me, because all I need is some hater to come by and grab it, bend it in half, and thus ruin my day. Or better yet, yank it off and walk away with it :angry: I didn't even try to source the little button style fasteners that have rotted and cracked into uselessness, so I decided to go a different route. Here's a picture of one of the button fasteners. I went out to the local Napa and went through their body fasteners, looking for the right one. It didn't take long to find the right one I needed. $6 later, I had a bag of goodies. Here's what I came up w/ along w/ the part number. What I did was to make the new fastener work, I simply cut off a small section of the top and bottom, so as to allow it to slide into the chrome J-Line. There are 4 per side. After cutting them down, I was able to remove the black stopper in the end of the J-Line and slide my 4 new fasteners in. Easy easy easy. They slid in one after the other. Now was the moment of truth(well, not really. I was already certain it would work); I slide the fasteners back and forth to get them lined up with the holes in the J-Line cover, and pressed them in one by one. VOILA! Worked beautifully. No more sketchy trim hanging off the side, no more paranoia. Now if someone wants to rip my trim off, they're gonna have to work for it <_< Since the button fasteners were so rotten on the passenger side, I wasn't able to ever attach the J-Line trim that I had located a few weeks ago(mine was missing when I got the car). With these new clips, I was able to install my new trim and smile big :D 2 Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted July 27, 2010 Report Share Posted July 27, 2010 Eegh.. about how much? I thought the auto tunnel was larger than the manual? Or are you just talking about the opening to which the shifter would come up through? depends on the trans you run Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted July 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2010 What about a dogleg or the 620 5-speed? I know w/ the ZX 5spd you have to move the shifter hole back. Is the 610 4-speed longer than the 620 one? Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted July 27, 2010 Report Share Posted July 27, 2010 the 620 and z/na zx you should only need to make the hole the auto linkage goes threw bigger for the dog leg the hole will be further forward and the zxt will be further back Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted August 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 Alright. So I saw some old-style bumpers for sale, and not being a HUGE fan of the park benches, I jumped on em. Even though the park benches are big, cumbersome, and generally unattractive, I'd still rather have them than nothing at all. Because of some differences in the way the bumpers mount, I had to make up some custom brackets for the rear. Now a few pics. All in all, I'm happy with the older-style bumpers. They really bring in the shape of the car, and make it alot tighter. 2 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.