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210's UNITE!!!!!!!!!


Capital15

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So I've found a NOS fender but it has no trim on it like mine does. I'm almost afraid to have the trim removed from my original fender to put on the new one for fear it may get mangled. I have no idea how difficult it is to take off. If it's anything like pulling door trim it'll get beat up. Anyone know if the metal trim piece can be refabbed? I would think so but I don't know where I would begin to find someone that could do that and what it would take. Anyone have any ideas? Meanwhile, I'm trying to find a fender that has the same side trim as mine.

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I suspect that the trim you are talking about is on the side of the fender (seen in the picture below your posts).  I think that may be a dealer installed moulding and not factory.  In the catalog it shows the moulding going past the fuel filler door, so there would be 3 pieces on the right side quarter, yours only has one.

 

Factory moulding part #'s:

Right Fender: 76852-H8801

Left Fender: 76853-H8801

Also, and this is somewhat random, it shows as an option for Hawaii.

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So I've found a NOS fender but it has no trim on it like mine does. I'm almost afraid to have the trim removed from my original fender to put on the new one for fear it may get mangled.

 

 

The metal bit comes off easily. It's just held on with rivets. The rubber bit will get destroyed in removal. I have seen rolls of it new, though. Might be time to replace all of it anyway.

 

I think that may be a dealer installed moulding and not factory.

 

It is. It was just a way for the dealer to mark up the price of the car.  ^_^

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The metal bit comes off easily. It's just held on with rivets. The rubber bit will get destroyed in removal. I have seen rolls of it new, though. Might be time to replace all of it anyway.

 

 

It is. It was just a way for the dealer to mark up the price of the car.  ^_^

 

Maybe grind off the rivets from the backside and re-apply with sometype of automotive adhesive?

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I suspect that the trim you are talking about is on the side of the fender (seen in the picture below your posts).  I think that may be a dealer installed moulding and not factory.  In the catalog it shows the moulding going past the fuel filler door, so there would be 3 pieces on the right side quarter, yours only has one.

 

Factory moulding part #'s:

Right Fender: 76852-H8801

Left Fender: 76853-H8801

Also, and this is somewhat random, it shows as an option for Hawaii.

Well I've seen different sizes of moulding on the front of the fender over the years.

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This one seems to be closer to mine but I don't think it's quite the same length.

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Dou you or a friend have a service manual or parts manual that shows how it is attached?

I have a service manual and a parts manual. I haven't looked in there yet.

 

The metal bit comes off easily. It's just held on with rivets. The rubber bit will get destroyed in removal. I have seen rolls of it new, though. Might be time to replace all of it anyway.

Yeah I chatted with John, Datrod on here, and he said his Z had the same type of moulding on it. He said Motor Sports in Orange out here still has the rubber and possibly the trim. I had the rubber replaced about 3 or 4 years ago last time I had the car painted so it's still fairly new. It was so dried out it was white. I'm ok with replacing the rubber. I just don't want that moulding to get destroyed. I feel better knowing it's just on with rivets. I'm hoping the new fender shows up tomorrow.

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Color,

If stanleys's molding Matches the stuff on the blue wagon Datsun Freak is 100% correct. It is a universal after-market product installed by the dealer nice the car arrived at the dealer to be sold. The "new car prep" department ( I worked in this Dept at Economic Motors in Riveerside in the early 70's.) would install different types of after market products like mag /jackman type wheels, side molding ( like Stanley's) aftermarket A/C units, side mirrors, custom door mirrors, and decal packages (some decals were factory, others aftermarket. The side molding was a popular purchase as Dats have beer-can-thin door metal and are easily dinged by American doors back then, and by new Asian cars today.

 

Datsun were very affordable cars and Datsun dealers who previous other US model cars wanted to increase the selling prices of Datsuns as much as possible, to get them closer to the prices of US cars they had been prev selling. There was big mark-up prices on accessories, and quick & easy profit.

 

The black plastic trim slides into a grooved track on the chrome base. At any junkyard you can Pick out one end of the black plastic and twist on it while pulling on it and you'll see how it comes out, and re-installs. Spray it with some dry silicone to help loosen it up. Then you'll see the pop-rivets that hold the chrome track onto the fender. Use the smallest drill bit you can to drill out the center of the rivet shaft. It will be way smaller than the mushroomed over head of the rivet.

 

Then you will have to re-drill the new fender to match. I suggest you do so after the new fender is installed sou can get the alignment of the molding on the new fender to match the door. Painters tape or a "chalk line" tool can help, or your husband lying on his back holding it in place while you eye-ball it and mark the holes to be drilled. "Holler" if you've got ?'s "homie."

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Color,

If stanleys's molding Matches the stuff on the blue wagon Datsun Freak is 100% correct. It is a universal after-market product installed by the dealer nice the car arrived at the dealer to be sold. The "new car prep" department ( I worked in this Dept at Economic Motors in Riveerside in the early 70's.) would install different types of after market products like mag /jackman type wheels, side molding ( like Stanley's) aftermarket A/C units, side mirrors, custom door mirrors, and decal packages (some decals were factory, others aftermarket. The side molding was a popular purchase as Dats have beer-can-thin door metal and are easily dinged by American doors back then, and by new Asian cars today.

 

Datsun were very affordable cars and Datsun dealers who previous other US model cars wanted to increase the selling prices of Datsuns as much as possible, to get them closer to the prices of US cars they had been prev selling. There was big mark-up prices on accessories, and quick & easy profit.

 

The black plastic trim slides into a grooved track on the chrome base. At any junkyard you can Pick out one end of the black plastic and twist on it while pulling on it and you'll see how it comes out, and re-installs. Spray it with some dry silicone to help loosen it up. Then you'll see the pop-rivets that hold the chrome track onto the fender. Use the smallest drill bit you can to drill out the center of the rivet shaft. It will be way smaller than the mushroomed over head of the rivet.

 

Then you will have to re-drill the new fender to match. I suggest you do so after the new fender is installed sou can get the alignment of the molding on the new fender to match the door. Painters tape or a "chalk line" tool can help, or your husband lying on his back holding it in place while you eye-ball it and mark the holes to be drilled. "Holler" if you've got ?'s "homie."

Stanley’s moulding is closer to that brown looking wagon before the white car. Thanks for the info. I feel better about this being an easy process. I will holla atcha if I gots questions. Fender is supposed to show up Monday. I’m giddy with anticipation :)

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If it's factory molding it might have pins that go thru the fencer and plastic collars that slide on the pins on the inside of the fender, kinda like 620 fender emblems.  You might have to scraps off some inner fender mud or undercoating to see if something is on the inside of the fender. Or it could just be mounted with Nissan HD double sided sticky tape like my 200SX emblems. Time will tell.

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If you're talking about the side molding, screws won't work. Screw heads are too big/tall to allow the molding to slide into the channel. It will hang up on the first one. You'll need to use Pop rivets.

 

You might be able to drill and tap the channel and use screws from inside the fender. But you'll have to cut down the screws length so the won't protrude into the channel path and push the vinyl trim out of the channel. And I'd use locktite on the screws so they don't vibrate out. But that's a lot of drilling, tapping, and cutting screws. Aluminum pop rivets and a manual pop rivet gun from Home Depot would be cheap, much faster, and wouldn't rust.

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Search and you will find. I want to get me a spare set of fenders as well. I need to continue my search.

That’s why I chose Seeker for my name. Finding parts is kinda like fishing, some days you don’t find any, some days you find the big one, or a rare one. . Talking to people about the parts you need is like throwing out bait to draw in sellers with the parts you need.

 

You’re great at it. I’ve seen you “land fish” from all over the country ;) Nice catch,

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got a question. My mechanic has gotten everything apart to put in the a/c I pulled but he's wanting to know if the heater hoses that go to the heater core are preformed or what before he starts cutting them. I'm assuming I may need to locate some hoses. Is that possible?

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Yeah we got everything from the donor. I'm sending him a pic from my parts book to he can point out which hoses. I'll call him in the morning and get more info. I didn't have time to really chat this afternoon so I didn't catch everything. I'll will post more info tomorrow.

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