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1968 Datsun 520 SD22 diesel build


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I think the thermostat housing on the right is the one you have on your engine, the one on the left points more to the side, the other one(not pictured here) points directly sideways on the engine, that one came from australia.

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<div>I used the the stock transmission from the 720 donor truck and the shifter came up trough the floor  just at the back of the stock hole.</div><div>I had to notch the rad support about a inch to get the radiator and mechanical fan from the j 13 to fit. I am going to have to have the the inlet and outlet positions changed on the radiator or have a custom one built.</div><div>The heater core won't be problem I just have to put some 90 degree hose adapters on.</div><div><br></div><div>001.jpg</div><div><br></div><div>002.jpg</div><div><br></div><div>003-1.jpg</div>

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this is what I did yesterday afternoon, my 521 workhorse

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this is the last nissan/datsun sd22/25 therm. cover I have, it points directly sideways on the engine

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this came out of a car used for troting horses on a track in australia, although I don't think it came in that car, the engine has a custom oilpan.

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Not sure what you mean. A n/a diesel is way more efficient than a n/a gas engine.

 

Yep, I stated my wording wrong. I meant to say the seat of the pants feel lacks in n/a diesel engines as opposed to forced induction ones. :D But that could be applied to any internal combustion engine.

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If that were true, diesel engines wouldn't need a turbo and the black smoke that is emitted from the tail pipe would be nonexistent too.

 

gas engine will make more power overall than a n/a diesel. But if you are talking more mpg, less maintenance (because diesels don't have spark plugs, distributor, coil), diesel engines last longer, not prone to detonation, then diesels have it. Even in n/a form you can tune the fuel distributor to run leaner which equals more mpg's, less smoke, but less power as well.

 

Now if you go turbo diesel, then I'll take that FTW!

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Because a diesel uses compression heat to fire the engine and the fuel is injected directly there is no chance for pre ignition so there is virtually no limit to how much additional air from a turbo of s/c you can add to it. This just increases power output.

 

Black smoke is from improper air fuel mixture caused by many things, probably like a gas engine they run better a bit rich when under heavy load, but when warmed up and running properly they use less fuel to make more power than a gas engine.

 

We also have to consider the fuel used too. Diesel has way more energy stored in it than gasoline. Pound for pound even accounting for the fuel used, diesels are better.

 

Gas engines can more efficiently extract power simply by raising the compression ratio and no other changes. Well up to a limit. Diesels are not constrained by this and easily run 22 to 1 and above, better capturing the energy and turning it into useful work.

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All the trucks on this page are badass!!!

 

 

They are all one of a kind too....... diesel 520, convertible 520, dually flat-bed 521, and that mad-max 320

 

 

Any plans for a WVO conversion,,,,, or bio-diesel?

I don't like the idea wvo because of the problem that come along with it clogged filters gelling in cold weather having to have two fuel tanks one for diesel to start the truck and for the wvo. I don't have the time to make my own bio diesel but if it becomes available around here I will use it for sure.

 

 

 

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SVO or WVO requires heated fuel tanks....... and upgraded fuel lines,,,, along with clogged fuel filters...... but the exaust smells like french fries.

 

Biodiesel is much easier to use......... and it is availible in Alberta:

 

http://www.albertabiodiesel.org/?i=vendors_dist

 

Scroll down to see the other vendors,,,,,,, but there are 2 in Calgary,, and 2 in Priddis

 

I think you still would need a upgraded fuel filter (not shure though)

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SVO or WVO requires heated fuel tanks....... and upgraded fuel lines,,,, along with clogged fuel filters...... but the exaust smells like french fries.

 

Biodiesel is much easier to use......... and it is availible in Alberta:

 

http://www.albertabi...?i=vendors_dist

 

Scroll down to see the other vendors,,,,,,, but there are 2 in Calgary,, and 2 in Priddis

 

I think you still would need a upgraded fuel filter (not shure though)

Ya but Calgary is about 250km away from where I live and I don't even know where Priddis is. There is supposed to be a a bio diesel plant starting up in Lethbridge then maybe I will have access to bio diesel
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002.jpg

 

Looks like the rad hose should come out of the thermostat housing, loop around and back to the rear, around and forward into the rad. Or engine movement will fracture the rad inlet with a short hose.

 

 

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Iam getting the rad inlet/outlets changed so the top one is moved over to the edge of the rad with a"S" bend on it and I going to put a S bend onto bottom one. This would mak it easier to get hoses on.

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I dont know man. I think mikes got a good idea with loopin the hose. Id just get a universal hose amd save some cash. Another thing is, this diesel will shake like a crazy mofo when you start it band shut it down. I did an isuzu c223 diesel conversion on my buddies chevy luv. When it would shut down it would shake side to side a good 2-3in.

 

So puttin as much slack in the hoses is gonna help alot.

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002.jpg

 

Looks like the rad hose should come out of the thermostat housing, loop around and back to the rear, around and forward into the rad. Or engine movement will fracture the rad inlet with a short hose.

 

 

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Getting the the rad built it going to cost 400 fucking dollars but its going to be a 3 dimple core with the same mounts and tank as the old one, what they say is equal to making the the original a 4 core. But 400 fucking god damn dollars. My wife is going to fucking kill me when she sees that bill! blink.gif

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Start looking at other vehicles for a radiator to fit, much cheaper than a custom made radiator. I was in the same position with the cost of a custom made radiator. I found a Honda Prelude radiator that will work until I can afford to but a custom built one.

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Do you have a nissan forklift dealer near you, maybe they could find a thermostat cover on a forklift that will work for you, I tried putting the cover on in a differant postion(pointing towards the drivers side) but the holes just don,t quite fit, if the holes were reamed out one size bigger I think it would bolt on, but would that help? How about this thought, what if you were to fab. a 1/2" thick plate that bolts down to the existing mount holes, that has studs/holes that are rotated enough to get the angle you need. something like a wheel spacer/adapter. wayno

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Thanks Guys,

But I have already given the rad shop the go ahead for the rebuild. I figure I might as well get it done now the rad needed rebuilding any ways. I do like the idea of making the spacer though.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I got my radiator today I got it rebuilt with a 3 dimple core it is supposed to be equivalent to a 4 core rad but I wasn't thinking that it would make it thicker by going to a 3 core from a 2 core. Now I have to run a electric pusher fan.angry.gif

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Is the radiator sitting in there differantly now? The position looks differant than earlier pics. in the top front area. wayno

 

 

 

Its sitting in the same spot. I now have the top hose on it now, it runs in the middle of the gauge for about 20 minutes with out a fan. So now i just have to fide a electric fan and a controller.

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