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Distributor Wires on a Z24 motor


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I posted this on the 1200 site but got no responses.

Maybe someone has some info here.

 

Thought I would throw this out there but if anyone has any info on the distributor for a Z24 motor, please fess up.

I need to install the wires and I need help on the connections.

The A14/A15 electronic distributor has a positive wire and a negative wire that goes to the black box on the distributor. The positive one is a White/Red strip and the negative is a White wire. The positive wire connects to the position that is marked "B" on the box. The negative is connected the the position that is mark "C".

The Z24 Distributor has (4) wires that go to it but it is also an (8) spark plug distributor. The Blue wire connect to "E". The Black/Yellow strip connects to "B". The White wire connects to "C" and the Red wire connects to (I). I am only going to use the primary plugs at this time so if it is as easy as it seems, I would only have to connect straight up to "B" and "C".

Help is needed.

Thanks.

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I can give you that when I get home.

 

On the dizzy...one wire is to ignition power, the other two go to the two coil - terminals, the 4th wite is for shutting the exhaust plugs off under heavy throttle. That's about it. Will post when I get home.

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OK you have the later dizzy with four wires. Looks like this with the White wire separate on it's own plug as shown:

 

Z244wiredistributorcalisingleordual.jpg

 

The other three wires are Red (I), Blue (E) and Black/White stripe (B).

 

For now ignore the White wire © that's by itself. Tape it up so it doesn't cause any problems.

 

The Red (I) wire goes to the exhaust coil's negative terminal. The positive terminal goes to ignition switch power in the on position.

 

The Blue (E) wire goes to the intake coil's negative terminal. The positive terminal goes to ignition switch power in the on position.

 

The Black/White (B) stripe wire goes to the ignition switch power in the on position.

 

Not sure what you are planning or how you plan to use this distributor but with power on the Black/White wire and engine turning over, will cause both the Red and the Blue wire to turn on and off to fire the coils. If using just one, either will do there's no difference between them. For a Z24 motor, it will run best when both coils are working.

 

mike

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Thanks Mike.

 

So you are saying that the white wire is not going to be used at all so I can shrink wrap the end of the wire?

If I run both coils, does that mean I need another MSD spark box for exhaust coil as well or can the exhaust plugs just run straight off the coil with the intak plugs running on the spark box? I thought the exhaust plugs were only for emissions.

This is for my 1973 1200 sedan. When I am finished it will be supercharged with 10 lbs. of boost and a 25-50 hp. shot of Nitrous.

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Thanks Mike.

 

So you are saying that the white wire is not going to be used at all so I can shrink wrap the end of the wire?

If I run both coils, does that mean I need another MSD spark box for exhaust coil as well or can the exhaust plugs just run straight off the coil with the intak plugs running on the spark box? I thought the exhaust plugs were only for emissions.

This is for my 1973 1200 sedan. When I am finished it will be supercharged with 10 lbs. of boost and a 25-50 hp. shot of Nitrous.

 

Shrink wrap the white wire and forget it.

 

You can get a second MSG if you want or can afford it but the stock coil will work just as good. If you run one only you can connect to either the intake or the exhaust side, won't matter a bit, and use a stock coil on the other.

 

The exhaust side plugs for emissions is a myth. Both plugs fire together to give two ignition sources which shortens the burn time and requires less ignition advance. Nissan's intent was that this set up will allow more EGR to be used to control emissions but luckily it also is good for mileage and efficiency.

 

The white wire??? It's part of a system that can tell the distributor to revert back to single plug operation to reduce engine noise when passing or climbing a hill. A vacuum switch grounds the white wire and the distributor turns off the exhaust side plugs, but it also advances the timing to compensate for the longer burn time of a single plug. When power is reduced the switch opens and the distributor changes back to dual plug and retards the ignition.

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There are three wires coming from the distributor: Red, Blue and Black/White.

 

In operation and the ignition key is on, power flows through the Black/White wire and into the distributor to power it.

 

At the same time power from the ignition flows to the positive terminal of both coils.

 

When the engine is turning, the module inside the distributor applies and removes ground on the red and blue wires that go to the negative coil terminals and they fire.

 

 

The Red (I) wire goes to the exhaust coil's negative terminal. The positive terminal goes to ignition switch power in the on position.

 

The Blue (E) wire goes to the intake coil's negative terminal. The positive terminal goes to ignition switch power in the on position.

 

The Black/White (B) stripe wire goes to the ignition switch power in the on position.

 

 

The coils have 12 volts on them at all times the ignition is on. The distributor's job is to make and break a ground connection on the other side of the coil to complete the circuit. Hard to explain but once you see how it works it make sense.

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If this is true, where do I connect the negative wire that comes of my MSD spark box. Direction state to connect it to the negative side of the coil. This where I had it on the A15 coil. Just want to make sure I don't mess anything up.

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  • 2 years later...

Datzenmike.

Sorry to bring this topic back but I'm doing another swap on my '73 1200. The Z24 is coming out and a'94 240sx KA24DE is going in. No fuel injection and no computer. All carburetor.

Just like the Z24 distributor, I need to know how to hook up the 4 pins on the distributor associated with the camshaft sensor.

I scavenged a pigtail from a KA24DE Altima that fits but the wire colors may be different from a 240sx. The Altima has Black, Orange, Yellow and Blue. For the Altima I have confirmed that Black is Ground and Orange is 12 volts. Other 2 wires, I'm not sure and am not sure if the 4 positions are the same for both cars.

Your help on the Z motor was great. Can you help me here or can anyone else help?

Thanks.

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I don't think you can run the KA distributor... it's actually a crank angle sensor (CAS). Nothing about it will work without the KA ecu and sensors to set the spark and timing with it. Inside the CAS is a wheel with 360 marks and 4 larger ones. A photo cell 'reads' the dots and marks and sends this to the ECU so that it knows exactly where the crank is to the degree.

You will need a dizzy from a 4 plug motor like a L series matchbox or a points dizzy. Or an 8 plug dizzy from a Z24 and leave 4 wires off.


Maybe this helps... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/26739-carbd-ka/

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Something else to through out there for z24 ignition. If running only one side the exhaust plugs are in a better position in the head. The mini truck class at my local dirt track are only aloud to run 4 plugs and they claim it runs better on the exhaust side plugs. I guess its due to the plug being in front of the intake valve. andI believe if running an msd box you can run off of the intake signal from the dizzy and from the msd split it to both coils.

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I did not know that. I ran my napz24 with both sets of plugs and a msd to the intake coil only. This info may have improved my performance .

The z24 is currently out of the car and won't be going back in. My new project is getting this KA24DE up and running.

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The motor runs best with dual plug. If for some reason you have to run single plug he says the running the exhaust side is best. You would also have to run way more advance with single plug. As far as I'm concerned I've yet to be convinced the MSG is better than the stock EI system. Lots of talk but no numbers.

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  • 6 years later...

Thanks for your help this forum is exactly what I needed. Ihave an 85 720 with a carburated z24 engine. Ever since I bought it, I've had electrical issues and it's because the previous owners just cut and twisted wires together all over the place. That, combined with the fact that a lot of the wiring insulation is disintegrating, I decided to rip out all the wiring and replace it with my own circuits. The distributor was the only one I was concerned about getting right since the rest are pretty straight forward. I will try this and report back how it goes. Thanks a ton!

 

Don

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  • 7 months later...

fBkHHry.jpg

 

This should be the later Z24 distributor. The 4th wire is white or maybe gray and on it's own plug. The whit wire is for causing the distributor to shut down the exhaust side plugs. If used on an earlier 3 wire just leave disconnected.

 

One of the three is +12v power to the EI module. The other two go the the negative side s of the two coils. +12v goes to the positive sides of the two coils.

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  • 6 months later...

I'm experiencing distributor troubles along these lines also.  I'm running a z24 in my 320, it's an '89 engine with an '86 distributor.  I have a Hyfire 6a on the intake side .  I found today I am only getting spark on the exhaust side, figured the Hyfire had dumped, even though it still triggers my tachometer.  I disconnected it, running straight from the distributor.  Still no spark.  Maybe bad coil...nope, the exhaust side triggers the intake coil just fine, the intake triggers neither side.  I now think the module in the distributor is bad.  Wondering, could the Hyfire caused it to go out? Right now I'm running the intake plugs with the exhaust side trigger.  

Thoughts?

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