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simple 280zx/510 strut questions


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#41 mklotz70

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Posted 22 August 2010 - 07:50 PM

Going on with the strut swap, I was wondering if the brake booster needed to be upgraded in order to use the ZX brakes. Would I want to take the booster off the car I got the struts from(280zx booster)?


the 510's are really light....I doubt you'll need the booster. I run the disc upgrade on the trucks without a booster.
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#42 DatsunMotorSports

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Posted 30 August 2010 - 06:40 AM

Here is my run-down:

280zx front struts 1981-1983 ZX
You can try 1978-1981 ZX as well, but they may have been equiped with slightly different brakes than the later ones. Someone with have to clarify this!
MR2 strut aftermarket inserts dotn know what year. It was like a BZ1085 or something (dont hold me to it)

The ZX struts and inserts were for the ZX which is a much heavier vehicle than the 510. So as for the valving its already incorrect for the 510. The MR2 weighs in close to the 510, but is still heavier. So I went with MR2 Tokico Illuminas. They are just slightly to short for the ZX strut. I ended up drilling out the spot welds on the top of the supplied strut cap for the MR2 to remove the nut-like plate and shoving that cap inside the ZX cap to make a spacer and it also helped center the insert into the tube. As far as tube degree I have no idea as I havent had a chance to use an alignment machine to determine if there was a change. I can confirm that the ZX hub pulls the rim/tires in more than the factor 510 hub. I was going nuts trying to figure out why the stock 510 hub was pushing the tires so far out in the front and leaving me with so much positive camber as to destroy the outside of the tires... I mean so much positive camber still after removing 3.5 coils from the stock coil spring. That just shouldn't happen. With the ZX strut though I cant see much positive camber there anymore. There is some, but its much better. There is not gain or loss in length between the ZX and MR2 strut inserts. Its less than a 1/4". Its about valving for the vehicle weight. I never liked the way the ZX handled or the 510 for that matter. My Z's will run circles around them in stock form. The MR2 being closer in weight seemed like a more logical choice over the ZX and I am satisfied with the results.

14"+ wheels are required to clear ZX calipers

I also looked into Cosmo Racing for coil overs. For $125 they will ship a coil over kit for just the front of a 510. 280ft/lb springs and price is for their "EVOII" kit which is the racing kit. 280 is the lightest spring available.

I have not noticed any problems running the stock brake master cylinder with no booster with the ZX front brakes.


I saw that most of this was covered in previous posts.

#43 Stupid_fast

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Posted 30 August 2010 - 02:57 PM

Here is my run-down:

280zx front struts 1981-1983 ZX
You can try 1978-1981 ZX as well, but they may have been equiped with slightly different brakes than the later ones. Someone with have to clarify this!
MR2 strut aftermarket inserts dotn know what year. It was like a BZ1085 or something (dont hold me to it)

The ZX struts and inserts were for the ZX which is a much heavier vehicle than the 510. So as for the valving its already incorrect for the 510. The MR2 weighs in close to the 510, but is still heavier. So I went with MR2 Tokico Illuminas. They are just slightly to short for the ZX strut. I ended up drilling out the spot welds on the top of the supplied strut cap for the MR2 to remove the nut-like plate and shoving that cap inside the ZX cap to make a spacer and it also helped center the insert into the tube. As far as tube degree I have no idea as I havent had a chance to use an alignment machine to determine if there was a change. I can confirm that the ZX hub pulls the rim/tires in more than the factor 510 hub. I was going nuts trying to figure out why the stock 510 hub was pushing the tires so far out in the front and leaving me with so much positive camber as to destroy the outside of the tires... I mean so much positive camber still after removing 3.5 coils from the stock coil spring. That just shouldn't happen. With the ZX strut though I cant see much positive camber there anymore. There is some, but its much better. There is not gain or loss in length between the ZX and MR2 strut inserts. Its less than a 1/4". Its about valving for the vehicle weight. I never liked the way the ZX handled or the 510 for that matter. My Z's will run circles around them in stock form. The MR2 being closer in weight seemed like a more logical choice over the ZX and I am satisfied with the results.

14"+ wheels are required to clear ZX calipers

I also looked into Cosmo Racing for coil overs. For $125 they will ship a coil over kit for just the front of a 510. 280ft/lb springs and price is for their "EVOII" kit which is the racing kit. 280 is the lightest spring available.

I have not noticed any problems running the stock brake master cylinder with no booster with the ZX front brakes.


I saw that most of this was covered in previous posts.


These coilovers I got with my 510 have Tokico BZ3099 inserts(87-89 MR-2). These are at maximum height, so they are great for getting your car really low.
Posted Image

Hope that helps...

edit, the BZ1085's are for the 87-89 MR-2 fronts, BZ3099's are the rear which are the ones you would want for a coilover setup. At least thats what I've got on mine!

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#44 Pineapplegti

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Posted 31 August 2010 - 04:41 PM

A couple questions.. Will 13x7 american racing Libres fit over zx brakes ? Also can you fellas post up a over all length of your shortened strut assemblies with springs installed ? The lower the car the better. Oh how about a inside diameter of the housing too..
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#45 Pineapplegti

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 10:01 AM

Just got off the phone with Raceland..and getting some info on the wrx coils they offer.. The bottomof the coilover is threaded.. I plan to make a steel adapter that would slide into a very cut down 510 shock tube that i will bolt and weld into place that will have a threaded receiver for the coilover to thread into.. Cant wait to get the measurements :rolleyes:
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#46 INDY510

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 12:49 PM

Why?


Why?....... and why?................. you can get coilovers that fit 510 struts......... . I used my stock 510 struts,,, then shortened them ~2 inches..... and re-threaded the top of the strut tube


With a 4.5" coilover collar.... . I can put the front crossmember on the ground (I know you already commented on how low my car is,, and how you'd be worried about the tires hitting the flares)



That WRX coilover idea is NOT SAFE.......... the entire wieght of your car is held up by a 40 yr old strut tube that has been structurally compromised,,, and joined with a more noble metal......... you can't just bolt on a spindle with a 3 inch strut tube.... . ... Why are you trying to re-invent the wheel?...... .. 510's can accept numerous donor struts,,, and they can all be shortened safely without having a weak point at the bottom of the strut tube [/endrant]


And WRX top-hats will NOT work on a 510............ ;)

#47 Pineapplegti

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 01:48 PM

I am not threading the 510 strut tubes.... i will have a billet steel adapter that will act like the bottom of the strut inserted in the housing with a bolt through it and then welded at the top (maybe a couple of plug welds too) on the other side of the adapter will be the threads that the coilover will thread into... Let me fail.. i enjoy doing it :D Its only 500 bucks and a couple hours playing on the lathe.
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#48 INDY510

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 02:03 PM

Only $500 eh?


Do you realize you could shorten your 510 struts (fun with lathe), add coilovers ($200), camber plates ($180),, , and some good short shocks (tokico $130-160)


Then you'd be done,,, and you can go lower than you'd ever want to............. and you'd be driving on a set-up that has been proven to work for the last 30 years

#49 Pineapplegti

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 02:49 PM

Yeah.. i hear ya.. In the end i might end up with that setup.. whats it gonna hurt trying this way first ?
BTW i love your car.. :D.. I was just commenting that i would be terrified on cracking the fiberglass once she has color on it.. You are a man after my own heart.
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#50 280zx2by2

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 03:06 PM

whats it gonna hurt trying this way first ?


Your wallet? You could just send me the $500 and pretend you did the suby suspension setup. :)

#51 Pineapplegti

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 03:18 PM

Well ill get 2 sets of front coilovers when im done.. You can buy em when i get them to work :P
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#52 280zx2by2

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 03:37 PM

Well ill get 2 sets of front coilovers when im done.. You can buy em when i get them to work :P

For a CONSIDERABLE ratsun discount amiright? :D

#53 INDY510

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 03:46 PM

A couple questions.. Will 13x7 american racing Libres fit over zx brakes ?

Most people need to run a 14" wheel.......... do you have flares?


slide into a very cut down 510 shock tube that i will bolt and weld into place

Are you going to use stock 510 brakes?............... 280zx brakes DO NOT fit on 510 struts.....

#54 Pineapplegti

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Posted 01 September 2010 - 04:41 PM

Most people need to run a 14" wheel.......... do you have flares?



Are you going to use stock 510 brakes?............... 280zx brakes DO NOT fit on 510 struts.....

Yeah thats what i figured.. I have no need for bigger brakes.. Ill stay with the 13s..
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#55 PurePontiacKid

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Posted 07 September 2010 - 09:03 PM

Do you realize you could shorten your 510 struts (fun with lathe), add coilovers ($200), camber plates ($180),, , and some good short shocks (tokico $130-160)


That's probably true... haoever, there's arot moar to it than that though (if you wanna do it RIGHT, and have a good handling car)... I'm to the point of wishing I had gone with S13 suspension conversion on my ZX, and spent the money on Stance coilovers. going this route I think is going to end up being moar expensive than doing the S13 stuff...

Koni struts................$200
exhaust flanges.........$10 (used to set coilovers on)
coilovers......................$80 (yes, I used the cheap ones)
new springs................$80 (stiffer to keep from bottoming out as often)
NCRCA's...................$130 (befoar shipping)
camber plates..........$180
___________________
...................................$680

And I already had the 280ZX struts and brakes (kinda hard not to when you're workin on a 280ZX lol) And that's just the front suspension! gotta do moar work to the rear still (on top of half the crap I put up there :( ) :/

#56 butcherboyjc

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Posted 26 September 2010 - 12:02 AM

What's the rest of that equation? I know the hubs fit just fine, but it also changes the rotor position, so IIRC, you can't use the 280 calipers when you do that. Can you just put the 300zx calipers on the 280zx struts? I know I've checked this personally, but off hand, I don't remember what the answer was.....and I don't have time to go dig through my own thread :)


In The Dime Quarterly there is a write up for using the 280sx strut and swapping the 300zx hub and a caliper bracket is machined to use the willwood caliper and an 11" rotor. This setup would give the benefit of correcting the track width, larger brake rotor, four piston caliper (lighter than the oem caliper). I have seen lots of talented machinist on this forum, why doesn't any one supply this bracket to do this swap? Is there a disadvantage I am missing from this swap that I am missing?

#57 dennis

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Posted 30 September 2010 - 04:19 AM

In The Dime Quarterly there is a write up for using the 280sx strut and swapping the 300zx hub and a caliper bracket is machined to use the willwood caliper and an 11" rotor. This setup would give the benefit of correcting the track width, larger brake rotor, four piston caliper (lighter than the oem caliper). I have seen lots of talented machinist on this forum, why doesn't any one supply this bracket to do this swap? Is there a disadvantage I am missing from this swap that I am missing?


I think that is what arizonazcar.com is selling, but of course you have to buy the whole front kit.

#58 Master-O-Turbonics

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Posted 27 October 2010 - 04:45 AM

280z is pretty:

Posted Image


280zx is less pretty:
Posted Image



Look at the quarter windows and that is the fastest way to tell the differnece.

#59 housew

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 07:05 AM

Aight, here's what I used:

Koni PN#: 86 1919

fits all models of '75-'89 Rabbits and Sciroccos.

and this is how they compare to Z31/S130 stuff:
DSC03878.jpg
reds are obviously Koni's lol
the upper Tokico HP's are Z31 300ZX front struts (the shorter of the blue ones)
the lower Tokico HP's are S130 280ZX front struts (the longer of the blue ones)

clearly an old post but this pic is super helpfull to me.

 

if you look at the Tokico inserts, it looks like it is m12 thread at the top, then an shouldered diameter slightly smaller than the shaft diameter pretty similar to the strut inserts i have on my car.

 

if you look at the koni inserts they look like an m12 thread at the top, and an 12mm diameter shouldered spot below the thread.

 

I could bolt my camber plates to the koni's but not the tokico's they way they are now. Are people getting their camber plates machined, their inserts machined, or just buying the correct combinations so their stuff bolts up?

 

can any verify or measure the diameter and length of the thin section under the threads on the konis? I think they would work and very well may be the way to go rather than having to do machine work (not scarred of that either, but if the cost is similar, new inserts is a win in my mind)



#60 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 12:42 PM

T3 the guy that works there knows about the Koni insert issue. You get a bushing or somthing. or not use the busahing.

I use the koni 280zx inserts but the threads(funky thread size also) to hold it in the tube are barely enough but work.
call Techno Toy Tunning. I think I had to buy soem nuts as my inserts didnt come with them or lost one.


Hpuse you have to remeber buying the shortest tube is not alwasy going to work. It depends on where your spring perch is also and the off set of your rims. I myself run the stock 510 struts and had to keep the perch in stock position to keep the tire hitting the perch.+25mm 15x7 rims.

more towards 0 offset then you can drop the perch lower.

I just went with the 7in tall spring and crank the collar all the way down
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