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Air Ride + 620s?


dsigh

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isnt the bottom one for coilover applications?

 

Yea, the second is a replace strut, versus a replacement shock. I just wanted to show a couple of different examples of what they offer.

 

I've decided to get some Toxic shocks for the time being. I'll let you know what they're like..

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that top pic looks like something like that would work, simmilar to the coilover setup that ????? is doing. you just need the correct length and remove the torsion bars! also need that snazzy top mount too.

 

???Fineline????

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even if you fabbed these up to work, you are not going to "lay out" with air struts. when collapsed, they are still to far apart "eye to eye". these would lower the truck quite a bit and make the truck adjustable, but if you are wanting to finish the job you started and lay the thing out, you are going to have to buy the typical bags and do some fabbing. BeeBani on here has built a really nice setup on his truck, you might want to talk to him

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yeah bee, after i thought about it, you could just make new shock mounts on the front, higher up, like the "hoops" that the off roaders use. not sure how that would all work with the stuff in the engine bay, but you get the idea. out back, sure, the shock waves would work, but people who use them are usually looking for "bolt on and go" and don't realize that you are going to have to 4 link, notch the frame, then put in your "shock wave mounts". myself, as you (by looking at your build up pictures) would rather just do it the "standard" way using 2500# bags because shock waves are pretty expensive! but dsigh...if you are looking at bag and drag type stuff...talk to bee, he has a REALLY nice and clean set up on his 620

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How come we never see beebani at the Tuesday meets? Vancouver isnt that far. Just wondering I've been there 5-6 times and havent ever met him. I'd like to take a look at his suspension on his truck.

 

Well, because couv is about 70-80 miles away. And my truck is running like shit right now, I lost the title and haven't ever had it in my name (dumbass) and it's not legal to drive yet.

 

I'll roll up there one of these days, then maybe everybody up there can give me shit to my face for once.;):lol:

 

I wanna go, but would feel retarded rolling up in the xterra and not the 620.

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Alright, airbags are not my forte, so I'm going to ask a couple stupid questions...

 

I'd like to have the adjustable suspension on my truck. I know I could go coilovers, but I'd rather be able to adjust it as I go, rather than having to fiddle with it. Airbags sound pretty appealing to me, and as far as I know they're legal up here. It'd be nice to drop the truck completely to the ground, but I don't want to cut and weld the frame or hack into the bed to get the clearance for the axle. I'd also rather not have to exchange out too many suspension components either. So...

 

If I use the replacement struts, could I use the stock (or equivilant) leaf springs that are on the truck, or would I have to fab up the rear suspension? Could I also remove most of the leafs from the pack and go like that, or would that make the suspension too soft/springy/bouncy/whatever? Would doing the fronts be more or less the same as replacing a normal strut, or would it require some fab work?

 

I'm assuming I'd need lines, a compressor, a tank, controls, etc, along with the struts, but mounting those isn't really an issue... I'm just curious as to how difficult the actual strut replacement would be...

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going with a mono leaf set up in the rear is VERY dangerous. That top leaf is not designed to withstand those kind of loads. you will have wheel hop and axle wrap like you wouldnt believe. you can air bag still, but you aren't going to lay out unless you do some cutting. part of being a layed on minitrucker is conquering the fear of hacking into something. if you build them right, your bag set up will be much stronger than the stock spring set up. the strut replacement would be pretty easy, bolt them on, mount your air management system, and go. but start looking at prices of air management. you are looking at about a grand just for your line, tank, compressors, valves...you dump that much into a system...you are going to want to lay all the way out. also, those shockwave struts are pretty expensive to. besides...cutting and grinding and welding on your truck is really really fun!! dont be afraid to go all the way (thats what she said)

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Hahaha, thanks... It would be nice to be able to lay the truck out, and I agree with going all the way if you're going to do something, but the main reason I'm against hacking into the frame is because I'll have to cut into the bed as well... I'd like to be able to keep the bed somewhat usable... Then again, if it's only a couple inches, it's not that bad... I just don't want to have to take out half of the bed space in order to be able to drop the truck an extra couple inches...

 

The one other thing is the fact that I'll need a frame inspection if I go this route... Then again, the insurance people tell me I need one anyways if I'm going to swap the engine, so I could kill two birds with one stone...

 

Does anyone know how much the frame needs to be brought up in order to completely lay the truck out, assuming stock wheel size and minimal axle to frame clearance? I'd like to be able to have it sitting on the ground, but I wouldn't actually drive it unless it was at least a couple inches off the ground... ok maybe an inch...

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a monoleaf setup will be ok to go with... as long as that motor swap you mentioned wasnt anything to severe. my first truck that was just static dropped on monoleafs had problems because it was turboed with 18psi. i would snap yokes in the rearend from axle wrap. on the good note, my bagged mazda has been a daily driver for 2 years and had no problems because mazdas dont have that much power to cause problems. the only problem ive had with the monoleafs was i seem to have a little too much fun draggin and drug through the perches. thats why im now 4-linking it. 4 links are the way to go, but monoleafs were able to get me by until i had another daily driver so i could park it.

 

not too sure on how the front of 620s are though.

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I've got a 521, but it seems more people have information about the 620's, so I'll make do with what I can get...

 

I'm going from a J13 to a KA... I'll be running it through an auto transmission though, so I can't get too carried away. I'm aiming more for torque... I don't expect to need too much top-end power.

 

To be completely honest, I have no idea what a four-link system is... time to check out wikipedia I guess...

 

EDIT: Wow... ok, well I know what that is... It's a pretty basic design, but getting details sorted out would be the tricky bit...

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I've got a 521, but it seems more people have information about the 620's, so I'll make do with what I can get...

 

 

I have a bagged 521, that I built myself. If you want it on the ground you are going to have to hack it up. Depending on your wheel and tire combo you might be able to get the back decently low with a small notch below the bed and maybe a 2 link with a panhard bar. You would have to run the bags on the bars though to keep it all under the bed. As far as the front goes........you aren't going to be able to make it adjustable without hacking it up somewhat. Pugz's 521 has a simple setup on the front with less cutting. I think it is a poor design though, due to the fact that the bags rub. If you check out page 3 you will see what I'm talking about. His truck still uses the factory upper control arm mount also. http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=1344

My front end is setup a lot like Dwight's (airedout). It is a lot more work, but better end result I believe. Here is a link to his thread. http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=38

Notice that the shock tower, upper control arm mount, bump stop mount big old chunk of metal thing has been cutoff, and a new upper control arm mount built. The frame was also dished to move the bag further up the lower control arm to keep it off the king pin. Hope this helps

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well said kansas, I also bagged a 521 before I did my 620. I "notched" the frame in the front on both trucks to keep the bag from rubbing. The carrier bearing x-member is a bitch on both trucks if you want to lay out; meaning it either has to be shaved down or replaced with something else. A triangulated 4-link in the rear is by far the best setup with the bags in front of or behind the axle (better ride). The downside to that is; you have to move the fuel tank for the bars to clear. Which you should do anyway because the tank will be close to the ground (bad when dragging!) and believe me; no matter what you say now, if your truck can lay out you will drag it at least once!! There are ways to avoid hacking up your bed as I have, but it takes time, patience and plenty of measuring.

 

You just have to decide right now how far you want to go. You can also do away with compressors and tanks and run nitrogen like I have. It only costs $15-20 to fill a bottle, and a bottle will last forever as long as you're not going crazy up and down all the time.

 

That's my 2 cents pope---nice name, happens to be mine as well (jason pope)

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