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**DATSUN FAQ** Frequently Asked Questions - Look here FIRST!


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#1 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 02 December 2007 - 03:46 PM

**DATSUN FAQ** Frequently Asked Questions - Look here FIRST!

Then watch this video.

After that SEARCH!

If you haven't found the answer, chances are we'd love to discuss the topic in depth beyond any depth and relevance you thought possible.

Now, ask away :fu:

OK, So I'll do my best to keep this an organized information bucket.
I'm hoping, along with all you guys, that we can get all the repeated questions answered before their asked...like the favorite...What does it take to put a 5-speed in my 620? and any other FAQ that we answer over and over and over and over...

So if you know the answer, the question or know of a relevant thread post up. I will edit the thread as needed to consolidate and keep it tech only.

This should be all the models to start with. Hopefully, eventually we can break it up for each section.

Here's a my start...I will just keep editing my post as I find relevant threads...of course, my finds will prolly be a bit truck biased laugh.gif

If you don't own one, this should be your first purchase after choosing a Datsun

2648_1.jpg7058_8.jpg

[EDIT: the green Haynes manual for 510, pl521 pictured has an incorrect page.The wiring diagram is actually a 620.]

Relevant and Informative Links

BRE's most awesome tech site
http://www.olddatsuns.com/
This link contains FSM (Factory Service Manuals) in pdf form for the 320, 520, 521 & 620. Download yours, print it and read it.
I recommend browsing the entire site, good stuff biggrin.gif
I also recommend a donation to help keep this resource available. Paypal is accepted through http://www.olddatsuns.com/

[EDIT: the620.com pdf 521 wiring diagram is wrong. It looks to be copied from the haynes green 510, pl521 manual which pictured above. Hopefully some can supply a for that correct]
 
 

Bleaches Site (Time to do some updates buddy biggrin.gif)

 

bleachgarage.com

 


Hainz L Series Video - Watch and learn, then watch it again

 

L head gasket replacement Pt1

 

L head gasket replacement Pt 2

 

L head gasket replacement Pt 3

 

L head gasket replacement Pt 4

 

L head gasket replacement Pt 5I

 

 


From the old sticky for tech links - thanks for getting us started PAC

Tech Link Tread

http://www.dimequarterly.com/

HEI EI dist. swap- http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html

SU info & tune up specs- Hitachi S. U. Tech Pages




Brakes

Truck Brakes

Finelines - Disc brakes for your Kingpin Truck
Fronts

Backs

Glengemans - Front Disc & Ball Joint Swap
Custom Upper Control Arm Method

L Series Info

Head bolts - cheapest I could find anywhere...local dealer wanted $120 for the L20 set....got a few extra with this and they're the turbo bolts...

http://www.courtesyp..._Code=P7600-KIT

Engine Swap Info

 

How to wire a KA CA SR and VG into anything.


KA24 Swap Info

KA Pictures

Icehouses 620 KA Swap

SR20DET Swap info - Yep, it'll fit

makibakas DGRfab 521 SR20DET

Roostmonkeys SR20DET swap

620 Truck
Transmission Gear Ratios

Type 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Year Range

AT 3 2.458 1.458 1.000     1973-79

MT 4 3.657 2.177 1.419 1.000   1973

MT 4 3.592 2.246 1.415 1.000   1974-79

MT 5 3.321 2.077 1.308 1.000 0.864 1977-78

MT 5 3.592 2.246 1.415 1.000 0.882 1979

 

 

620 Truck
Rear Axle Gear Ratios

Ratio model Year Range

4.375 MT 4 & 5 speeds through '78

4.625 AT Sept 1973 to July '75

4.375 AT Aug. '75  through '79

4.11 MT4 & MT5 '79 only

 

 

 

 

H-190 Info

Came with 13 spline side gears on very early trucks/cars.

More common 23 spline side gears used on Roadster*, 510 wagon*, 610 wagons from Sept. '73, all 810 and Maxima gas/diesel wagons.

All 29 spline were on the 520*/521*/620*/7202wd and 4x4 to '83, '82-'83 S110 (200sx) and the '84 S12 (200sx)

 

* aluminum case, used only on the earliest 620s.

 

Ratios range from 3.364, 3.545, 3.70, 3.889, 4.11, 4.375, 4.625 to 4.875



Yes, there is a Limited Slip Differential available for your truck.
 
 

www.reiderracing.com $400 Its a precision gear power brute. They sell two parts for the same axle depending on what gear ratio you are running. One with and one without a 4mm spacer. The one without the spacer will accomodate 4.11 to 4.62 gears and the one with the spacer will go for 4.87 to 5.42. You have to use the later model gears with the 12mm ring gear bolts though. Its still cheaper than having an axle cut to fit the narrow pickups.

Found another LSD. It's built by Auburn gear.

This is a link to one for $499.99
http://justdifferent...products_id=516

ARB also offers a selectable locker for the H190


Fit those big wheels.
Newer wheels require some work to fit on our trucks. You can either machine the wheels to fit over the hub, run 1/4" spacers or machine your hubs so that any newer wheel will fit.

Machined 620 ball-joint hub (this will work on king-pin hubs as well)

06042007003.jpg

Will Titans Fit?

Yes, here are the measurements...

Pics, cause their fun

Titan Tech:

P3280004.jpg

P3280007.jpg

Tire size...

dat_tire.jpg

Measuring off set...

P3280009.jpg

P3280012.jpg

P3280010.jpg

Wheel (true) width...

P3280013.jpg

P3280011.jpg


Lug nut info - Thanks Hainz

wheel studs
stock are 42mm front
41.5mm rear

40222-RS035 front 50mm 14.3 x 36t serrations
40222-RS045 front 60mm

40222-RS015 rear 50mm 13.0 x 36t serrations
40222-RS025 rear 60mm

example here I dont know whats in a set ,i got this on the Z car section
everbody record this but remeber the 521 trucks use 7/16 lug nuts so these will be M12x1.25 metric
http://www.nissanpar...?pn=40222-RS035

Interior

620 Dash pic's

Electrical

90 AMP Alternator swap for a L series motor - Page 3 is meat n taters

Where to get parts for your Datto

http://www.nissanparts.cc/

www.rockauto.com


Smokin' Joe's House of Datto's

Picture004-5sml.jpg
Member- *Japanese Trucking Association*

**DATSUN FAQ** ~ If ya know it, post it ~ If ya don't know it, learn it ~

ratsun.net rising sun stickers                     ratsun business cards order thread

620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#2 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 02 December 2007 - 06:28 PM

HAHA Filled up that one....


Trucks

Drum Brake Adjustment

Sample thread from nwde:
 

i have the basic 4wheel drum brakes.. just wondering the best way to adjust them or make sure they're adjusted

 

jack truck up
adjust brakes by getting a screw driver or a brake adjuster(looks like a bent screw driver the stick in behined brake drum the rotate the wheel down till you feel a slight resistance and maybe back off a click.

 

 

Download the manual at www.the620.com and it will tell you exactly how to do it.

 

 

stick the tool inside the hole and click the gear downward? sounds easy enough.. i was just making sure there wasnt some kind of "special technique" that you guys know of.. i've found that you fellers know some Tricky stuff .. not always common sense.. so i figured i'd ask

 

 

Don't force the star wheel, it may be seized. Lack of maintenance, or lube, and driving through puddles does this. If so, remove the drum and dismantle and loosen up the adjuster and lube with brake grease

 

 


Thanks Lynch biggrin.gif

The aforementioned TOOL

521-sss006-1.jpg

Thanks pl521sss tongue.gif

5-Speed Swap Info

With the early short tail 4-speed swaps, you will need the forward section of the driveshaft that comes with the transmission you are swapping in as the later 4 and 5-speeds are longer.

Bleach says:

1977-80 280Z(X) 5-speeds have the short 5th gear pretty much the same as the truck 5-speeds.

Only use an L-series 5-speed. If you get a 720 trans then stick to 1980 only. L20b/

1981-83 280zx has a taller 5th gear than other L-series transmissions.

I did the automatic to 5-speed swap; then a few years later I did the short 5th gear to tall 5th gear tranny swap only because I had the tranny and I needed a new throwout bearing.

Use the throwout bearing that goes with your clutch kit. If you still have an L20b, then just buy a stock 225mm clutch kit for it. Its the same as the non-turbo Z clutch. Its more than you need for your massive power L-series 4 banger.

Datsunaholic says:

This is really easy.

Transmission: As long as you use the L-series 5-speed from a TRUCK or a Z/ZX or 810 Maxima it bolts straight in. The bells are not removable, nor is there any reason to. I don't think the internals for the 5-speed would fit in a 4-speed case, but maybe they would. I know the extension housings are different.

Transmission mods: Take your speedometer drive out of the 4-speed you have now and put it in the 5-speed. Else, your speedo will be as much as 20% off with a ZX tranny. Or could be the same if using a '77-78 truck one.

Throwout: You use the throwout bearing and collar that's in the truck now. DO NOT (I repeat) DO NOT use a ZX collar on the truck. While SOME are the right size, not ALL are (2+2 ZX's used 240mm clutches). It's best to replace the bearing now, but if it's fairly new it's your call.

Transmission mount- you use the one on the 4-speed. The Z/ZX one is significantly different.

Shifter: use whichever one you like more. I've used both the stock truck 4-speed one and the ZX 5-speed one on my 5-speeds. The ZX one is really short and hits the console, but the short throw is "interesting".

I found that the hardest part is actually getting the damn thing IN. I found it easier to yank the engine out, swap transmisssions, and put it back in. I've done just the transmission and I'll never do that again without a lift. It took me 3 weeks to swap transmissions in a truck leaving the engine in place (I ended up unbolting the CAB and jacking it up to gain clearance) and I've done the full engine pull-swap clutch and tranny- reinstall engine in a day.

BODY

Mklotz's Hinge Repair Thread

http://www.nwde.org/...ts.asp?TID=3605
(I hope to get this embedded soon)


Paint Codes

http://www.datsunown...ours/chart.html

Trucks

620 body parts from Thailand

Suspension

620 Rear Bushings

Fineline
I am in the process of having my rear springs re-arced and have found that Energy suspension P/N# 2.2107g polyurethane bushings will work on the 620 rear leafs and shackles. You have to use the stock metal sleve from the rubber bushings and not the ones with the kit.
yello620
Very interesting. Just for more reference, that kit fits front and rear leaf springs of an 87-96 jeep wrangler.


More L Series Head Info
 

L Head identification and specs



Typical Cracking of L Series Blocks

So here's where mine were cracked, This is the one Icehouse got me..so far it looks good with the magnaflux, but I'll know more this week after it's bath.

Check it owt!

block_crack.jpg

I guess what happens is: Someone will do a head gasket and not clean out the head bolt holes. Because of this the bolt won't torque properly and can crack the block. Either that or they are over torque-ing them still cracking the block. Then water will creep up the head bolt and into your oil making it look like a bad head gasket.

So remember to chase those threads and clean out those bolt holes before properly torque-ing your head bolts to spec and all will be good


Smokin' Joe's House of Datto's

Picture004-5sml.jpg
Member- *Japanese Trucking Association*

**DATSUN FAQ** ~ If ya know it, post it ~ If ya don't know it, learn it ~

ratsun.net rising sun stickers                     ratsun business cards order thread

620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#3 makya

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Posted 02 December 2007 - 09:36 PM

]2edeye, Please make a note that the link to the 620 has the FSM's that everybody with a 620 should have downloaded and to donate for the privilege of getting them Cheap or Free!
 
 
How to Reindex Torsion Bars

in front of the middle crossmember, you pull the boot forward to reviel the lock ring

rebuild62.jpg

Work a thin screwdriver into the edge of the ring. It will be tight. I had to work the angle back and forth while occasionally tapping the back of the handle with a hammer

rebuild63.jpg

Once you get under the ring, work it out slightly. Do not pull the screwdriver away or the ring will pop back on

rebuild64.jpg

After you have worked it off part way, use some pliers to pull the ring off the rest of the way. Be sure to still keep the screwdriver under the lock ring

rebuild65.jpg

Tap the rear arm of that holds the adjuster bolt out of the crossmember. Hang onto the torsion bar. It can slide out at either end. I was able to feel the splines in the end of the bar and I moved it two notches. edit:(but you only want to move it one notch!) The reindexed bar is on the right.

rebuild70.jpg

after the bar is reindexed, just hold the lock ring up and hit the back of the ring with a hammer. It pops on real easy. Put the dust boot back

rebuild66.jpg

Nice pic's of the snap ring Bleach smile.gif


Picture added by datzenmike 21/04/10:

torsion_bar.jpg



Another method
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
just remove the anchor bolts then remove the nut on the A arm up front almost off then pound it out w/o hurting the threads
me and Icehouse did his 521 truck. We NEVER removed the c clip from the back
we just pulled the torsion bar from the front A arm and reindexed it there. Had to jack up the wheel to get it to reinstall. We never wanted to take the c clip out.


#4 ]2eDeYe

]2eDeYe

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Posted 03 December 2007 - 08:01 AM

Added this to the620 link

This link contains FSM (Factory Service Manuals) in pdf form for the 320, 520, 521 & 620
I recommend browsing the entire site
I also recommend a donation to help keep this resource available, I believe paypal is accepted through the620.com

Makya, thanks for the prod with the yota FAQ. I've been putting off doing this for quite some time and that was just the right nudge biggrin.gif

On to the next post.... biggrin.gif

Here's a beauty of a quote from pirate4X4.com/forum on troubleshooting (which some people seem to think, means parts replacement)
 

[Rant]

Somebody thats green at auto repair is fine. I really don't have a problem with them so much once they learn how to ask a question and how to search first. They are trying to learn and with enough PBB abuse we can straighten them out.

I am so tired of dumbasses that have no freaking idea of how to repair a vehicle giving shitty advice to people! Its driving me insane!

GUESSING AT AND THEN THROWING MONEY AT A REPAIR IS ONLY GOOD AT MAKING YOU POOR.

If you tell somebody to go buy a part without first walking them through the diagnostic on said part...DELETE YOUR POST! YOU ARE AN IDIOT WITH NO CLUE AND YOU ARE WASTING THIS PERSONS TIME AND MONEY IF THEY ARE STUPID ENOUGH TO LISTEN TO YOU!

You can tell the good advice and the people with a clue because they will tell you to do the diagnostics (read codes meter out sensors etc) first. They generally never tell you to buy a part right off the bat. They ask you to do the leg work and prove that part bad before you spend money.

There is diagnostic procedures for every part on a motor. You should NEVER spend money on a part till you have PROVED that part defective by doing the diagnostics.

Where do you get these procedures....A SHOP MANUAL! The very first thing you should do if you have any inkling to do a repair on your truck is BUY A DAMN SHOP MANUAL!

Shop manual will have step by step procedure on how to test the part and all the values and responses you should see if the part is working correctly. It will also have the correct torque values on fasteners that will keep you from galling threads. If you bother to look them up and figure out a 8mm bolt doesn't not and cannot handle 45ibft of torque. Over tightening stuff is just as bad as under. You exceed the spec on the bolt and that bolt is at risk for catastrophic failure ("breaking" for the HS drop outs with limited vocabulary) at any time.

A fuel injected Toyota is one of the simplest vehicles to work on you will find. IT WILL TELL YOU WHAT IS WRONG AND WHERE TO LOOK IF YOU KNOW HOW TO ASK! HOW TO ASK IS IN THE SHOP MANUAL!

Tools for diagnostics on Toyota's.

Paper clip or 2 inch wire with spades on each end. (free or under $1 if you have to buy the spades)

Volt Ohm Meter ($10-20)

Mighty vac hand vacuum pump. ( $20 and it will help you bleed your brake too)

Vacuum gage with assorted T and hose adapters ($14)....A Might vac can be used if you got the fancy one with the gage.

SHOP MANUAL (Haynes is $14 at parts store and it OK for most repairs)

BRAIN capable of logical thought and following written procedures.


So for about $55-75 and a public education you can have a pretty good set of diagnostics tools to work on your junk.

You don't need a $10k computer the dealer has. Fact of the matter is a dealer mechanic is often more of an idiot then those of us that do it with a paper clip. They are parts installers. We have to do the leg work and understand how the parts relate to each other. They will do with the computers says and if it doesn't work then they have the luxury to take the part off and try a different part since they have stock available to swap till the problem goes away.


Procedures to follow for any run problem.

Step 1. READ THE CODES IF ITS FI! Just because the light isn't on doesn't mean there is no codes to be read. There are "Hard codes" (the ones that will keep the check engine light on) and "soft codes". A soft code or intermittent problem may only have the light on for a short period of time or possibly not at all depending on the code. Once you have those codes look them up. Reset the ECM at this point.

Now if this is an intermittent problem then reseting the ECM will clear codes that will be unrelated or possibly tripped if any other diagnostics has been done that possibly tripped an invalid code. Try to recreate the problem. Once it occurred then read the codes again. See what codes are gone and what ones came back. On a FI code it may have multiple meanings. What other codes are present will help you decide what that combination of codes most likely shows is wrong.

Step 2. (step 1. on a carb motor) Take note of the problem. When does it happen, Is it when the engine is cold or hot. Idle, accelerating, steady cruise, decelerating? That information is VERY important is helping people rule things out.

As an example. Starting cold fine and running fine till the motor warms on on a Carb vehicle is usually a problem with the Choke. Usually the choke has not opened and its drowning the motor.

Those same exact symptoms on a Fuel injected engine is usually a EGR problem or a O2 Sensor problem. The clue here is the O2 and EGR are not used till the motor is at full operating temp. Now it can still be a bad temp sensor that keeps the cold start injector on and doing essentially the same thing as the choke not open.

So you can see why it is so important to have all the facts and symptoms.

step 3. CONSULT THE SHOP MANUAL WITH THE FINDINGS IN THE PREVIOUS STEPS AND SEE WHAT IT SAYS IS PROBABLE CAUSES.

Step 4. DO THE DIAGNOSTIC STEPS THAT THE MANUAL RECOMMENDS. Confirm the part is defective by that diagnostic procedure. Buy new part and test operation after installation.

Step 5. If you still have a problem or test inconclusive then SEARCH on PBB. If you cant find a post with the same problem then ask. Notice this is not the first thing to do. This is because any of us with a clue is going to tell you to go do the first few steps or ask you questions that the answers will be in those steps.



Now some of you are idiots that don't know how to ask a question. You just about deserve the crappy advice you are going to get. Hope you got a deep wallet.

"Truck wont idle" is a DUMB question. My first response will be "Search" or "its not Tuesday".

Why?

Because I don't feel like having to pry out of you what you have checked, detailed description of problem and because every problem you could possibly have has been covered so you should have already found a post same problem and been able to go through most of the recommendations.


When you ask a question you need to help us help you.
We need to know the following:

What year the truck or the engine is

What model engine

Carb or fuel injected

modifications such as upgraded ignition, 22R converted to 22RE, propane, anything at all remotely related to the problem.

Anything that lead up to the problem such as driving though 4ft of water. HG replacement, Dumbass know it all buddy tried to fix it.

What diagnostic steps you have performed already and their results. I.E. IF THIS AS IF THIS VEHICLE IS FUEL INJECTED YOU BETTER TELL ME IF IT HAS A CODE PRESENT AND YOU HAVE CONSULTED THE MANUAL AND CAN TELL US WHAT THAT CODE SAID FOR YOUR YEAR TRUCK.. If you cant do that much then you are probably only going to get answerers from the "throw some money at it" idiots. The rest of us are burned out on the dumb questions with no details and ignoring them.

[/rant]

 

 


320 Info

J13 Engine Modifications

E1 Electronic Ignition Swap

Even More L Series Info

Mklotz's Valve Adjustment Thread

http://www.nwde.org/...ts.asp?TID=3582
(Hope to have this embedded here soon as well)

More Interior Info

Carpet For Trucks

http://www.stockinte...c=Nissan_Carpet

Suspension

Sway Bars

http://forum.ratsun....&highlight=sway

Carb Pic's

Weber 32/36

 

 

 

 

Got this carb from a guy for next to nothing but need info on it... I am not great with this stuff so picture by picture would be great. In the second pic you notice the pencil is pointing to a broken tab??

IMG_00151.jpg

IMG_00161.jpg

IMG_00171.jpg

IMG_00181.jpg


 

Thanks sdsurf


Smokin' Joe's House of Datto's

Picture004-5sml.jpg
Member- *Japanese Trucking Association*

**DATSUN FAQ** ~ If ya know it, post it ~ If ya don't know it, learn it ~

ratsun.net rising sun stickers                     ratsun business cards order thread

620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#5 ]2eDeYe

]2eDeYe

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Posted 03 December 2007 - 01:44 PM

Stock Hitachi

 

I will try to post some pics here.

Top view;

101_0101.jpg

diagnal view showing throttle and secondary linkage and anti-dieseling apparatus;

101_0100.jpg

bottom view;

101_0099.jpg

fender side view;

101_0098.jpg

front; NOTE: sight glass bull's eye is installed upside down.
101_0097.jpg

engine side;

101_0096.jpg

and the last one is the rear view.

101_0095.jpg

This is several viewsof my stock Hitachi that I pulled off this afternoon to do a exhaust/intake gasket change. Hope these help. The wire with the blue, round connector attaches to the auto choke and the one with the flat, red connector goes to the anti-dieseling switch. These will connect to the blue and red wires that are in a group of 4 wires that come out of the wiring harness that runs near the radiator, above the drivers side headlights. Dan

I took some more pics of the carb this morn. The first is the throttle open and the next with it closed. The other two are out of the manual. According to the manual, the linkage keeps the secondary from opening until the primary reaches 50%, then the linkage moves away from the roller pin on the secondary enough to allow the vacuum dashpot to open up the secondary plate. Hope this helps. Dan

101_0111.jpg

101_0110.jpg

101_0109.jpg

101_0108.jpg



Thanks 650savag

 

 

It's my understanding that the early 280 didn't have a 5spd. If it was swapped in it could be anything. It wasn't until 1977 that a 5-speed was added in the US. The 1977-80 5-speed was considered a "wide-ratio", the 1981-83 a "close ratio" transmission. Close ratio transmissions are preferred for road racing as they allow the driver to maintain a tighter rev range between gears compared to wide ratio versions.

Here's how to identify the 280z 5 spd transmissions:





Torsion bar adjustment bolts

Thanks Reese. biggrin.gif

 

 

I remember someone was asking where the torsion bar bolts were.. They are the two long bolts on both sides of the driveshaft at the end of the transmission. Jack up the truck to get the wheel off the ground, loosen the lock nut on top, hold the bottom nut and loosen the bolt. For a 2" drop I have about an inch of threads left at the top. I would also remove or shorten the bump stops behind the front shocks so you have some suspension travel again.



As well as adding info, if you guys see something that's incorrect please let me know wink.gif


Smokin' Joe's House of Datto's

Picture004-5sml.jpg
Member- *Japanese Trucking Association*

**DATSUN FAQ** ~ If ya know it, post it ~ If ya don't know it, learn it ~

ratsun.net rising sun stickers                     ratsun business cards order thread

620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#6 dat521gatherer

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Posted 03 December 2007 - 06:16 PM

the 620.com pdf 521 wiring is wrong. it looks to be copied from the haynes green 510,pl521 manual pictured on the top of this page which is also incorrect. both say 521 wiring but it's a 620 that is pictured. i'm sure some of us can supply the correct 521 pdf wiring harness page for the 620.com but the green haynes manual cannot be fixed.

#7 dat521gatherer

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Posted 08 December 2007 - 02:56 AM

521 wiring diagram but i have no idea what to do with it. if i copy image location and prieview post it stays small. so i'm doing copy link location for now. maybe one of you can do something with it or tell me what to do. as far as pdf i'm lost.
http://www.flickr.co...N08/2095280462/

#8 datzenmike

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Posted 11 December 2007 - 07:50 AM

Yes, more Z info! Sadly, the most info in one place seems to be Jason Grey's lists, and only applies to direct swappable engine parts to the L series. The 720 is a store house of parts that will or can be made to fit the 620s. They are available, newer and some times much improved. We should change this! Here's a start: the front diff on a 720 Z22 engine 4X4 will fit the 510 and give it an R 180 4.11 ratio.

Mid-late '82 there was a big change to the 720s. The '78-'79 620 disc brake set up that was used on the '80-'82 720 was up-graded to vented rotor and a much larger caliper used. I suspect that it will slip on the '78 and '79s as well, never tried it but looked at it. '83 was the first year for the C200 rear gear on all 4X4s, still R-180 on the front.

620/720 frames are all but identical for Short/Long/KC. Shock mounts may differ at the rear. I put my '78 KC onto a Long Bed and all lined up but the two front bed mts. Had to cut and weld them 11" back.

Edited by datzenmike, 26 April 2009 - 06:37 AM.

Posted Image

#9 dat521gatherer

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Posted 13 December 2007 - 05:23 AM

i think we need to mention some info about the 521 front inner wheel bearing 32kb02 that is no longer available. most all of the parts stores are wrong with their application. a 30304 will not work. the a-24 will not work. is the a-24 the one that says 32kb02 11b on it? are there 3 bearings that say 32kbo2? one for a 521, one for a 620, and the above mentioned 11b? can you tell the difference by just the numbers for the 521 and 620 or do you need a caliper?

i know nwde has some links but this sticky is getting messy enough. the nwde links i consider to be important info but under semi different topics, oh no thats what this is!:eek: come on big wigs tell us what you know and please dont just point to posts.

not all of us want to do the 620 conversion but i guess a link wouldn't kill me:D

#10 mklotz70

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Posted 13 December 2007 - 09:35 PM

Most of the bearing info is on pg 5 of the nwde thread

http://www.nwde.org/...p?TID=2005&PN=5

The diff between the two bearing is the large end where the seal rides....otherwise, they have the same ID, OD, and outer race width. The A24 set will go right into the 521 hub, but the "boss" at the base of the spindle is different.

If I remember right, the 30304 is the outer bearing and readily available. The parts stores list the 30306 as the inner and that is wrong. The back axle is a 30308.....again, this is all off memory. If you read the thread, I think it's in there. My bearing folder is at least an inch thick and I'm going to bed instead of digging through it :)
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#11 Icehouse

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Posted 13 December 2007 - 09:53 PM

This will help the EFI engine dudes :D



ECU Codes List
Contributed by Administrator
Wednesday, 10 October 2007
Last Updated Wednesday, 10 October 2007
A list of Nissan ECU codes, for OBD I , OBD II Vehciles
Here are a list of SES/CEL NISSAN CODES
11 Crank angle sensor/circuit (1988 to 1990); Crankshaft position sensor (1991 to 1996)
12 Air flow Meter/circuit open or shorted
13 Cylinder head temperature sensor(Maxima and 300ZX models); all others coolant temperature sensor circuit
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor signal circuit is open
15 Mixture ratio is too lean despite feedback control; fuel injector clogged
21 Ignition signal in the primary circuit is not being entered to the ECU during cranking or tuning
22 Fuel pump circuit (Maxima and 1987 and later 300ZX models); all others idle speed control valve or circuit
23 Idle switch (throttle valve switch) signal circuit open
24 Park/netural switch malfunctioning
25 Idle speed control valve circuit is open or shorted
26 Turbo boost
28 Cooling fan
29 Fuel system rich
31 1984 through 1986 EFI models; Problem in air conditioning system; all other models: ECU internal problem
32 1984 through 1986 EFI models; check starter system. All other models: EGR malfuntion (California models)
33 Oxygen sensor or circuit (300ZX left side) - all other models EGR malfunction
34 Detonation (Knock) sensor
35 Exhaust gas temperature sensor (California models)
36 EGR transducer
37 Closed loop control/front oxygen sensor (Maxima)
41 Maxima and 1984 through 1987 300ZX models; fuel temp sensor circuit. All other models: air temperature sensor
circuit
42 1988 and later 300ZX models; fuel temperature sensor circuit; all other models: throttle sensor circuit
43 The mixture ratio is too lean despite feedback control; fuel injector clogged (1987 Sentra only): All others; Throttle
position sensor circuit is open or shorted
44 No trouble codes stored in ECU
45 Injector fuel leak (California models only)
51 Fuel injector circuit open (California models only)
53 Oxygen sensor (300ZX right side)
54 Short between automatic transmission control unit(TCU) and ECU
55 Normal engine management system operation is indicated
63 Misfire detected - cylinder no. 6
64 Misfire detected - cylinder no. 5
65 Misfire detected - cylinder no. 4
66 Misfire detected - cylinder no. 3
67 Misfire detected - cylinder no. 2
68 Misfire detected - cylinder no. 1
71 Misfire detected - random
72 Catalytic converter malfunction (right side)
74 EVAP pressure sensor
75 EVAP leak
76 Fuel injection system
77 Rear oxygen sensor
81 Vacuum cut bypass valve
82 Crankshaft sensor
84 Automatic trans-to-fuel injection communication
85 VTC solenoid
87 EVAP canister purge control
91 Front oxygen sensor
95 Crankshaft sensor
98 Coolant temperature sensor
101 Camshaft sensor
Posted Image Posted Image

"All men by nature desire knowledge."
Aristotle

#12 DISLEXICDIME

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Posted 28 December 2007 - 11:00 AM

HOW TO REBUILD YOUR PL510 HEATER BOX. laugh.gif WITH PIC,S

http://www.510coop.com/heater/



#13 DISLEXICDIME

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Posted 28 December 2007 - 01:15 PM

CARROLL SMITH’S PROBLEM AND CAUSE GUIDE

INSTABILITY

Straight line instability: general
• Rear wheel toe-out, either static due to incorrect (or backwards)
setting, or dynamic due to bump steer or deflection steer
• Vast lack of rear download or overwhelming preponderance of front download
• Wild amount of front toe-in or toe-out
• Loose or broken chassis, suspension member or suspension link mounting
point
• Dead shock absorber

Straight line instability: under hard acceleration
• Malfunctioning limited slip differential
• Insufficient rear toe-in
• Deflection steer from rear chassis/suspension member or mounting point
• Rear tire stagger (car pulls to one side)
• Dead rear shock absorber
• Wildly uneven corner weights

Straight line instability: car darts over bumps (especially one wheel bumps)
• Excessive Ackermann steering geometry
• Excessive front toe-in or toe-out
• Uneven front caster or trail settings
• Insufficient rear wheel droop travel
• Dead shock or uneven shock forces or incorrectly adjusted packers/bump
rubbers
• Wildly uneven corner weights
• Front anti-roll bar miles too stiff

Instability under hard braking: front end wanders
• Excessive front brake bias or uneven corner weights or excessive front
damper rebound force

Instability under hard braking: car wants to spin
• Excessive rear brake bias
• Insufficient rear droop travel
• Wildly uneven corner weights
• Excessive rear damper rebound force
• Unbalanced ride/roll resistance – too much at rear
• Insufficient rear camber (usually in combination with one or more of
the above)

RESPONSE

Car feels generally too heavy and unresponsive
• Tire pressures too low
• Insufficient ride and/or roll resistance (springs and bars)
• Excessive aerodynamic download, or insufficient spring for the amount
of download
• If high speed acceleration is sluggish, the culprit is often too large
a rear wing Gurney lip

Car feels sloppy, is slow to take a set in corners, rolls a lot, doesn’t
want to change direction
• Insufficient tire pressure
• Insufficient damper forces
• Car too soft in ride and/or roll

Car responds too quickly – has little feel – slides at the slightest
provocation
• Excessive tire pressure
• Excessive bump force in shock absorbers
• Car too stiff for inexperienced driver
• Excessive ride or roll resistance
• Excessive front or rear toe-in
• Insufficient aerodynamic download

Understeer

Corner entry understeer: car initially points in and then washes out
• Excessive toe-in or toe-out (car is usually “darty”)
• Insufficient front droop travel (non droop limited cars only)
• Incorrectly adjusted packers (car rolls on to packers)
• Insufficient front damper bump resistance (similar to roll stiffness
example)
• Insufficient front roll stiffness – car may feel like it is pointing
in but may actually be falling over onto the outside front tire due to
insufficient front roll stiffness or diagonal load transfer under heavy
trail braking. Initial understeer can often be cured by increasing front
roll resistance, even though doing so may increase the amount of lateral
load transfer.
• Non linear lateral load transfer due to spring and/or bar geometry. Or
to non-optimal roll axis inclination

Corner entry understeer: car won’t point in and gets progressively worse
• Driver braking too hard, too late
• Relatively narrow front track width
• Excessive front tire pressure
• Excessive front roll stiffness (spring or bar)
• Relative lack of front download (excessive rear download)
• Incorrectly adjusted packers or bump rubbers (car rolls onto packers)
• Insufficient front toe-in
• Insufficient Ackermann effect in steering geometry
• Front roll center too high or too low
• Insufficient front damper bump force
• Insufficient front toe-out
• Insufficient front wheel droop travel (on non droop limited cars only)
• Nose being “sucked down” due to ground effect
• Excessive Ackermann steering geometry
• Can also be caused by unloading the front tires due to rearward load
transfer under acceleration – cures include:
• Increasing front damper rebound force
• Increasing rear damper low speed damper rebound force
• Increasing rear anti-squat
• Droop limiting front suspension (will also make turn-in more positive
and will reduce overall understeer)

Mid-corner (mid-phase) understeer
• Excessive front tire pressure
• Excessive relative front roll stiffness
• Excessive front toe (in or out)
• Excessive Ackermann steering geometry
• Insufficient front dynamic camber
• Relatively narrow front track width
• Insufficient front wheel travel (car rolls onto packers or bottomed shock)
• Insufficient droop travel (on non droop limited cars)

Corner exit understeer: slow corners
• Often a function of excessive corner entry and mid-phase understeer
(whether driver induced or car induced) followed by throttle application
whilst maintaining the understeer steering lock. The first step must be
to cure the corner entry and mid-phase understeer. If this is
impractical, then corner entry speed should be reduced slightly in order
to allow earlier throttle application. Sometimes we have to be patient.

Corner exit understeer: fast corners
• Relative lack of front download – often caused by negative pitch angle
(squat) due to rearward load transfer on acceleration. Can be helped by
increasing rear anti-squat and/or by increasing rear low speed bump
force, increasing front droop force and by limiting the front suspension
droop travel.
• Relatively narrow front track width
• Excessive ramp angle or pre-load on clutch pack or plate type limited
slip differentials.

#14 DISLEXICDIME

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Posted 28 December 2007 - 01:16 PM

Understeer stronger in one direction than in the other
• Uneven corner weights
• Uneven caster
• Uneven camber (especially front)

OVERSTEER

Corner Entry Oversteer
• Excessively heavy trail braking
• Excessive rearward brake bias
• Severe rearward ride rate/roll resistance imbalance
• Rear roll center too high
• Diabolical lack of rear download
• Severely limited rear droop travel
• Broken or non-functioning outside rear damper
• Broken or non-functioning front anti-roll bar

Note: A slight feeling of rear “tiptoe” type hunting on corner entry can
be due to excessive rear toe-in or excessive rear damper rebound force.

Mid-corner (mid-phase) oversteer
• Driver threw the car at the corner to get through initial understeer –
only cure is to educate the driver and/or decrease understeer
• Excessive rear tire pressure
• Excessive relative rear ride and/or roll stiffness
• Rear suspension bottoming in roll
• Insufficient rear droop travel (non droop limited cars only)
• Very loose rear anti-roll bar linkage

Corner exit oversteer: gets progressively worse from the time the power
is applied
• Worn out limited slip differential
• Excessive anti-squat geometry
• Excessive rear ride and/or roll stiffness
• Insufficient rear spring, bar or shock (low piston speed bump force)
allowing the car to “fall over” onto outside rear tire
• Excessive rear negative camber
• Too little dynamic rear toe-in
• Relatively insufficient rear download

Note: If car feels as though it is sliding through the corner rather
than rolling freely, reduce the rear toe-in and see what happens.

Corner exit oversteer –sudden – car seems to take a normal exit set and
then breaks loose
• Insufficient rear suspension travel (lifting the inside wheel on non
droop limited cars or bottoming the outside suspension due to lack of
bump travel)
• Incorrectly adjusted packers
• Dead rear damper
• Sudden change in outside rear tire camber
• Too much throttle applied too soon –often after the drivers confidence
has been boosted by the car taking a set.

Car does not put the power down smoothly on the exit of smooth corners
• Worn out limited slip differential
• Excessive rear ride/roll resistance
• Excessive anti-squat geometry
• Excessive rear tire pressure
• Tires gone
• Excessive rear damper low piston speed bump force
• Excessive rear dynamic camber – either from download or from camber
change on squat
• Relative lack of rear download

Car does not put the power down on the exit of bumpy corners
• Any or all of the above for smooth corners
• Excessive rear damper high piston speed force
• Excessive rear damper rebound force (jacking down)
• Insufficient rear droop travel

TRANSITIONS

Understeer in, snap to oversteer on power application
• The most common complaint of all ! Usually caused by too little roll
resistance – car falls over on entry and then snaps.
• Increase front bar and/or spring and/or front damper low piston speed
bump force. Stiffening the bar will also transfer some load on to the
inside rear tire on acceleration.
• If the suggestion above cures the understeer but the car still snaps,
the culprit is almost always the car falling over on the outside rear
tire on longitudinal plus lateral load transfer. Add rear bar or spring.
Bar will transfer load away from the inside rear tire. Spring will not.
Spring will, however, decrease traction over exit bumps while bar will not.
• Loose anti-roll bar linkage/blade sockets can have the exactly same effect

Car is slow to change directions in chicanes or esses
• Insufficient ride/roll stiffness, especially at front.
• Relatively narrow front track width.
• Insufficient front damper low piston speed bump force.

BRAKES

Brake pedal gets soft, spongy and/or long during session or race
• Fluid boiling in calipers. Not pad fade ! Upgrade fluid and/or cool
calipers.

Brake pedal is soft, spongy and/or long before the car is run
• Air in the system – bleed brakes.
• Brake pads badly taper worn – replace

Reduced stopping power with normal brake pedal
• Pad fade – due either to unbedded new pads or to temperature beyond
pad capacity. Upgrade pads.

Long pedal with little effort required
• Master cylinder(s) too small or pedal mechanical advantage too great.

Rough braking – pedal vibrates under pressure
• Organic pickup on discs – clean discs with garnet paper (not aluminium
oxide sandpaper) and upgrade pads
• Warped (not grooved) rotors. Grind (or, if you must, turn) rotor surfaces
• Insufficient axial float on floating discs

Uneven braking – car pulls to one side
• Stuck piston(s) – rebuild calipers

Brake bias changes during application
• Excessive clearance between master cylinder push rod clevises and bias
bar bearing housing.
• Rod end bearings used instead of clevises on master cylinder push rods.
• Bias bar incorrectly adjusted. Bar must be perpendicular to vehicle
longitudinal axis with full foot pressure applied. Contrary to popular
opinion, relative length of master cylinder pushrods is immaterial.

#15 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 24 April 2008 - 10:03 AM

Datsun Chassis Codes

Thanks ggzilla
 

Take a look at this:
7513.jpg
Datsun chassis codes

Smokin' Joe's House of Datto's

Picture004-5sml.jpg
Member- *Japanese Trucking Association*

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620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#16 DatDoug

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Posted 07 November 2008 - 02:35 PM

I just swapped a long-shaft 5-speed tranny into my 73 620 and wanted to share some of the differences.

The 73 comes with a short-shaft 4-speed. When putting in a long-shaft 5-speed u need to have the tranny crossmember from the a long shaft tranny truck (75-79) and the front drive shaft piece (shorter than the stock 73). I opted to get a whole driveline from a 77 to ensure no vibration from mixing and matching. U also need the long-shaft tunnel cover (the plate that srews on over the tranny opening inside the cab). With all of these pieces it will b a str8 bolt-in :D
Stance is everything

#17 Phlebmaster

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Posted 17 March 2009 - 12:22 PM

Tons of cool info about the datsuns we love. :D

Posted Image

http://press.nissan-...e/en_index.html
Thanks, Aaron
Life is about making dreams come true, stop dreaming and make life happen. ;)
MY_YOUTUBE_VIDEOS :D
To keep an opened mind- speculation is devine.
Assumptions always lead to a dead end!

#18 420n620

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 11:05 AM

did you use the search thingy laugh.gif
...

 

well im still curious on whether the speed dive will swap from a 77 auto to an 80 5 speed?

thanks

 

 

Not supposed to... automatic speedo cogs will not fit standard transmissions . On standard 4 and 5 speeds the late '79 and up were installed with the key way facing down. Pre '80s had the key way facing up. If you swap them, one won't engage the drive teeth and the other will be squashed.

Here's a picture of the difference:
transcogs.jpg

Edited by datzenmike, 12 January 2013 - 05:44 PM.
added direct quote of tech

th_68datsungoonloweredbyindy510.jpg

RAP IS LIKE SCISSORS, IT ALWAYS LOSES TO ROCK !!!


#19 sinner720st

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Posted 01 November 2010 - 09:18 PM

some helpful ignition dizzy info on a naps z

so i thought my plug wires where mixed up so i re arraigned my plug wires according to a diagram i found. and now it will not start i have tried many plug wire combo,s but no luck. please help i want to drive my truck lol



This is how the dizzy should look if you are leaning on the driver's fender looking down on it. In the center are two coil wire terminals. The top most one has a square with an In inside it the bottom one has a circle with Ex inside it. The square one is for the intake plugs and just above my finger at 9 o'clock is a square that says I1 (intake one) Down at 4 o'clock is my thumb and just ahead of it is a circle with E1 (exhaust one) in it. The rotor is reallt two rotors in one conducting both intake and exhaust coil outputs. If you look closely there are an inner 4 terminals and an outer 4. Inner are intake, outer are exhaust.

If you set to TDC the rotor terminals should be pointing to 9 and 4 o'clock to fire both intake and exhaust #1 plugs.

Posted Image



.



Ok so one more question what direction should the vac advance be pointing ? Front of the truck reaR of the truck hood or towards the ground?



Posted Image





a great thread about pickup LSD (thank you Datzen mike)

The WD-21 and D-21 use an H-233 rear diff. The Pathfinder is a 5 link coil spring while the Hardbody is leaf spring. Internally the same. The H-233 comes in 4.375 and 4.625 ratio, is available with LSD and the Pathfinder available with rear disc brakes. Both are about 150" between rims so 1 1/2 to 2" per side wider than a 620. The '95 and on have a different spline count and axles will not swap with newer diffs.

31 spline Pathfinder axles vs. 720/620/521 29 splined axles.

Posted Image

I toyed with this idea. All I found locally was a WD-21 axle so I cut all the coil and link mounts off of it and planned to weld leaf spring perches on later.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

H-233 4.625 LSD diff. This ring gear is larger than the Ford 9"!!! The early ones have a 185 ft. lb. breakaway torque. Later 2003 Frontiers are 29 ft. lb. (why even bother????) Soccer moms complaining about wheel chatter turning around in the parking lot I bet.

Posted Image

The lSD can be disassembled and spacer/clutch discs added or removed to tailor the breakaway force.

Posted Image


Posted Image




The diffs used on all 4X4s after '83 with the Z24 motor were C-200s so the whole axle would need changing.

Check out the '88- 01'92 2wd D-21 with Z24i or KA24E motor. They used an H-190 rear diff and there was an LSD option for them. Gears are limited to 3.545 and 3.70 ratios but they could likely be swapped. Dealer cost for the LSD unit (only) is $1,500, ouch. If looking for one at the wreckers look on the bum of the diff for an orange sticker that says LSD or LSD OIL ONLY

Posted Image
Posted Image

Take a rag to wipe the grease off with and..... good luck.


.


Edited by ]2eDeYe, 03 October 2011 - 04:19 PM.
added quotes to direct info

requires welder... hammer requires no welder.


Posted Image

my project thread MY 720

#20 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 11 November 2010 - 07:38 PM

Posted Image



Your 79 should be an almost bolt in deal.

Smokin' Joe's House of Datto's

Picture004-5sml.jpg
Member- *Japanese Trucking Association*

**DATSUN FAQ** ~ If ya know it, post it ~ If ya don't know it, learn it ~

ratsun.net rising sun stickers                     ratsun business cards order thread

620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"