LeDevil Posted November 29, 2007 Report Share Posted November 29, 2007 I know it's possibly to do this on the 521 king pin front spindles but is it possible to do it on the 620 with the king pin setup? Quote Link to comment
pl521sss Posted November 29, 2007 Report Share Posted November 29, 2007 What's flipping the spindle do to a 521? Quote Link to comment
pope_face Posted November 29, 2007 Report Share Posted November 29, 2007 I would assume it raises the hub in relation to the rest of the suspension/steering components, possibly lowering the front of the car without modifying the actual suspension? Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted November 29, 2007 Report Share Posted November 29, 2007 other than the "boss" at the base of the 620 spindle being a bit different, the dogbone you're refering to is the same. I'm pretty sure the kingpin is at a slightly different angle than the centerline on the dogbone, which will change your camber once it's flipped....but I haven't looked at it too close. I used to say no way....not safe, but ADrummond and I looked at how to do the flip...we came up with a way that we think would be safe, but haven't tried it yet. Quote Link to comment
521Lvr Posted November 29, 2007 Report Share Posted November 29, 2007 so is it "safe" on the 521? does it mess with camber on the 521 Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted November 29, 2007 Report Share Posted November 29, 2007 depends on how it's done....haven't seen it done in a way I would run.....but other have done it. But the reality is, I'm not too concerned with how others do it unless they're on the road around me :) If it affects the camber, it will do it to both 521's and 620....same suspension Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 I know it's possibly to do this on the 521 king pin front spindles but is it possible to do it on the 620 with the king pin setup? your truck is low enuff Quote Link to comment
LeDevil Posted November 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 I know my truck is low enough but if I flip the spindles I can crank up my torsion bars and have more travel :lol: Quote Link to comment
pl521sss Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 Is the dog bone and king pin assembly on 620 and 521 the same? I spotted a 620 that has good king pin, no play. My 521 has major play. It would be easier just to swap one that's good. Saw the write up on the king pin replacement. Looks like a lot of work. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 They are the same for what you are talking about doing. The inner bearings are a bit different, but the 620 drum inner bearing is cheap and easy to find...the 521 are not! That alone would make it worth the swap. You might want to just get the entire lower control arm with it....removing the lower fulcrum bolt in the yard will be a major pain....and if you don't have a new replacement "cotter pin" (wedge bolt) before you pull it, you may not find another. Trust me...it would be easier to pull the torsion bar and pivot and take the whole arm. Chances are good that the lower bolt on yours are worn anyway. If the bearings feel good in the 620 hubs....get the hubs with it....you'd have to replace the bearings in your 521 hubs before you could put them back on the 620 spindles. If you didn't, the brake drum would bottom out on the backing plate or the shoes would hit the drum. Quote Link to comment
pope_face Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 They are the same for what you are talking about doing. The inner bearings are a bit different, but the 620 drum inner bearing is cheap and easy to find...the 521 are not! That alone would make it worth the swap. You might want to just get the entire lower control arm with it....removing the lower fulcrum bolt in the yard will be a major pain....and if you don't have a new replacement "cotter pin" (wedge bolt) before you pull it, you may not find another. Trust me...it would be easier to pull the torsion bar and pivot and take the whole arm. Chances are good that the lower bolt on yours are worn anyway. If the bearings feel good in the 620 hubs....get the hubs with it....you'd have to replace the bearings in your 521 hubs before you could put them back on the 620 spindles. If you didn't, the brake drum would bottom out on the backing plate or the shoes would hit the drum. Hate to be a pain, but does anyone have a picture showing which parts we're talking about? If the bearings are that much easier to find I might do the swap myself... Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 I can take some pic's of a complete 620 assembly tonight if that will help. Quote Link to comment
pope_face Posted November 30, 2007 Report Share Posted November 30, 2007 Redeye: That would... :D Would you mind also pointing out which parts would be required for the swap? Just the main components... I can take a look at my truck and compare... Now all I need is a donor 620... and a 720, and a hardbody, and another 521... Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 I'll go have a photo shoot now :D Quote Link to comment
pl521sss Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 They are the same for what you are talking about doing. The inner bearings are a bit different, but the 620 drum inner bearing is cheap and easy to find...the 521 are not! That alone would make it worth the swap. You might want to just get the entire lower control arm with it....removing the lower fulcrum bolt in the yard will be a major pain....and if you don't have a new replacement "cotter pin" (wedge bolt) before you pull it, you may not find another. Trust me...it would be easier to pull the torsion bar and pivot and take the whole arm. Chances are good that the lower bolt on yours are worn anyway. If the bearings feel good in the 620 hubs....get the hubs with it....you'd have to replace the bearings in your 521 hubs before you could put them back on the 620 spindles. If you didn't, the brake drum would bottom out on the backing plate or the shoes would hit the drum. I was in the yard today. What a pain to get that dog bone out. Got those lower fulcrum bolts out but not enough room to get them out between. Couldn't figure out they suppose to come out besides taking the whole lower control arm. Either way, it's a ton of work just doing it in the yard. Will try again next week. Hopefully it's still there. Any advise on getting it out without taking the lower control arm? Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 You will be extremely hard pressed to get the fulcrum bolt out in the yard, that is why I said to take the entire lower control arm. You got the caps off, but there's a wedge bolt, called a cotter pin that is holding the fulcrum bolt in the dog bone. You can see the nut on the bottom/backside of the dogbone...it comes off easily. The nightmare is getting that cotter pin out without damaging it.....unless you have new ones in your hand before you try....I would not attempt to remove it!!!!! When I ordered mine, I was told there was only 4 left...I'm pretty sure Hainz order 4 after me. I would get those from the dealer before attempting to remove them. You should study the manual before hitting the scrapyard so you have an idea what you're up against. Get the factory part number and check to see if they're available. Manuals are at http://www.the620.com (tech page)(use the 800pg 521 parts manual). Then check that number at nissanparts.cc ...put it in the search box at the top left of the page. There is no easy answer....it's a pain rebuilding the kingpins, it's a pain getting the lower fulcrum bolt out, it's a bit less of a pain to pull the torsion bar and disconnect the lower control arm. Undo the torsion bar bolt at the crossmember all the way. You might be able to grab the bar with your hands and wiggle/wrestle it backwards, out of the LCA. I prefer using a big set of vise grips, clamped tightly on the bar, then use a hammer and tap on the vise grips to get it out. There's a bolt or nut (don't remember which) on the front side of the LCA at the pivot point. Once it's off, you can then tap the pivot bolt toward the rear of the rig. When it comes out, the LCA should pretty much drop off the cross member. I'm sure you'll find that a lot easier than what you've tried already. Also....before you simply bolt the caps back on the fulcrum bolt and call it good....there is a spec in the factory manual for how those are put back in. Another option would be to hacksaw off one side of the LCA, but you'll still have to fight the cotter pin to put it back on your other LCA. Seriously....keep the LCA and dogbone together....much, much easier in the long run!!! Quote Link to comment
pl521sss Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 You will be extremely hard pressed to get the fulcrum bolt out in the yard, that is why I said to take the entire lower control arm. You got the caps off, but there's a wedge bolt, called a cotter pin that is holding the bolt in the dog bone. You can see the nut...it comes off easily. The nightmare is getting that cotter pin out without damaging it.....unless you have new ones in your hand before you try!!!!! When I ordered mine, I was told there was only 4 left...I'm pretty sure Hainz order 4 after me. I would get those from the dealer before attempting to remove them. You should study the manual before hitting the scrapyard so you have an idea what you're up against. There is no easy answer....it's a pain rebuilding the kingpins, it's a pain getting the lower fulcrum bolt out, it's a bit less of a pain to pull the torsion bar and disconnect the lower control arm. Undo the torsion bar bolt at the crossmember all the way. You might be able to grab the bar with your hands and wiggle/wrestle it backwards, out of the LCA. I prefer using a big set of vise grips, clamped tightly on the bar, then use a hammer and tap it out. There's a bolt or nut (don't remember which) on the front side of the LCA. Once it's off, you can then tap the pivot bolt toward the rear of the rig. When it comes out, the LCA should pretty much drop off the cross member. I'm sure you'll find that a lot easier than what you've tried already. Also....before you simply bolt the caps back on the fulcrom bolt and call it good....there is a spec in the factory manual for how those are put back in. Another option would be to hacksaw off one side of the LCA, but you'll still have to fight the cotter pin to put it back on your other LCA. Seriously....keep the LCA and dogbone together....much, much easier in the long run!!! damn, I knew your answer is coming about getting the LCA all together. But who ever got those dog bone out of the 521 in the same yard, I wonder how long or frustrated did you get before it came out. Heshe didn't take the LCA, just the dog bone. thanks Mike Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted December 3, 2007 Report Share Posted December 3, 2007 You can loosen the nut on the cotter pin until it's flush with the end of the threads. Then hammer on it and hope it brakes free. If you're lucky, it will pop loose without damaging the threads. Then you can try to tap the fulcrum bolt out one side or the other. You may get lucky and the cotter pin pops right out. I'd be prepared for the other option and if you don't know if you can get replacements, you could be asking for trouble. I'd take it home as a set...then I could hit it with a torch....let it soak in penetrating oil.....many more options once it's home. Good luck!! Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted December 7, 2007 Report Share Posted December 7, 2007 Ok pic's...that took forever for some reason... :P This assembly is from a 77 620 Unbolting the entire assembly is about a pain, but it might be easier than dealing with that bolt nowhere near vice. BTW Paul, stil got em when you need em :D Quote Link to comment
pope_face Posted December 7, 2007 Report Share Posted December 7, 2007 Redeye: Thanks for the pics... looks pretty straightforward... I was expecting something a lot more complex than that... As for the wiring diagram pictures I promised... I'm still trying to get those for the FAQ... I spent a good couple hours yesterday trying to install the drivers for the scanner, but for some reason I can't get the computer to connect to it. I'll keep trying though... Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted December 7, 2007 Report Share Posted December 7, 2007 I know how it goes ;) Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted December 7, 2007 Report Share Posted December 7, 2007 and the "cotterpin" causing all the grief...... ..you don't need to get the upper arms, the bolt holding the arms to the dogbone should be fairly easy to get off. I've had to hack saw them, so, maybe plan on getting the uppers too. Guaranteed they'll need new bushings. p.s......redeye....can you save/repost this last pic with your stuff if you want it to stay with the thread.....no promises I won't delete it a few weeks/months down the road :) Quote Link to comment
71-521 Posted December 7, 2007 Report Share Posted December 7, 2007 2eDeYe;31154'']BTW Paul, stil got em when you need em :D thanks, I do...just getting the time to get up there that I need right now...... Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted December 7, 2007 Report Share Posted December 7, 2007 I may just do that mike :P No worries Paul ;) Quote Link to comment
pl521sss Posted December 10, 2007 Report Share Posted December 10, 2007 Finally got it out from the Junk Yard. Took me 3 attempts, partly poor planning and tools. Damn Junk Yard is not the same anymore. It's not a poor man's parts place, It's "we got the parts and you have to pay up however we like it." Bastards They wanted $49 for each spindle assembly and I asked to give me the price breakdown. It was costing me $11 for the backing plate and $5 for wheel cylinder (it was the shoe adjusters). Removed them and went back to pay. Then the guy says, $45 for the spindle and hub and I said you m.... f..... :mad: You just had me removed all that and still charge me the same. At least this how Junk yards are in Northern California. Cotterpin Bolt Not sure if I can salvage it. It wouldn't budge when I was trying to remove it. Quote Link to comment
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