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Now I know that this subject has been brought up before..and I also thought that the other site had it as well...but I cannot find an answer to my question so here goes........(hainz..I know you will know the answer..I hope!!).in deciding to use a Mechanical oil pressure gauge along with the stock gauge..what is the thread in the block?...I know that a 1/8" npt will thrad in...but it seems to me that it is something else...(I think it was the "British Thread wasn't it like "NBpt" or something.....) ya know what i mean...AI wanna use bothe gauges....ya know with an adapter in the block to plug in both........AND where do i find the correct parts?...seems to me there i9s a source, but I cannot remember...Help!!

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The adapter fitting I used on my engines is made by Edelmann, 265220. It is marked 1/8NPTF x 1/8-28 BSP. I also plumbed my oil pressure line with 1/4 copper pipe. The oil pressure rises and falls as fast as the tachometer, the way it should be.

I got the filling at a local auto parts chain, here in Portland, Or Baxter Auto Parts.

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http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2103/2070319962_9d90f71e44_m.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2120/2069524909_6fc8378852_m.jpg

 

this in the setup i have on both my 521's. i think my tripple guage came with a t adapter. some t's have 2 female and one male but both of mine have 3 female holes. i pieced my last one together from tacoma screw. i'm sure it's not british. i commend you for doing this as most people just leave the original equipment disconnected. i also did the water as original and after market guages. the water adapter is much harder to find. i got mine from wolfsco. williams oil filter service company.

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Just out of curiosity, is there any benefit to running both the stock and the aftermarket gauge, other than to be able to cross referance one against the other? Perhaps I'm completely wrong, but it seems like the main reasons to switch to an aftermarket gauge are either an incorrect/not working stock gauge, a lack of precision in the stock gauge, or a stock gauge that offers information that (although may be accurate and precise) is in an unusable format, i.e.: a speedometer in miles when kilometers are required, or vis versa.

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Just out of curiosity, is there any benefit to running both the stock and the aftermarket gauge, other than to be able to cross referance one against the other? Perhaps I'm completely wrong, but it seems like the main reasons to switch to an aftermarket gauge are either an incorrect/not working stock gauge, a lack of precision in the stock gauge, or a stock gauge that offers information that (although may be accurate and precise) is in an unusable format, i.e.: a speedometer in miles when kilometers are required, or vis versa.

 

I like aftermarket gauges for the simple fact that most cars and trucks are not very accurate or are just a light on the dash (IDIOT LIGHT cause you'd have to be an idiot to believe that the light or sending unit is still good :D )but I would say that if the light did work and you used an aftermarket gauge with it a bright red light may get your attention better than just a gauge just hope the light comes on before your oil pressure is low enough to screw up everything in the engine

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(IDIOT LIGHT cause you'd have to be an idiot to believe that the light or sending unit is still good :D )but I would say that if the light did work and you used an aftermarket gauge with it a bright red light may get your attention better than just a gauge just hope the light comes on before your oil pressure is low enough to screw up everything in the engine

 

Idiot light... also known as Chuck Engine light:lol:

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DanialC is correct!!!!!! marked 1/8NPTF x 1/8-28 BSP

 

 

I like the aftermarket oil gauge .

When going around a corner I can tell when the oil is getting low!!!!!!I loose pressure!!!!!

Buy yhr better gauges Like VDO ,steward warner.Autometer(made in USA units) They are mostly outsourced but better than the common part sore sold units.

Also buy the Autometer brand oil lines. DO NOT USE the cheap lines in the taiwan kits they will crack from the heat if handled later on(BELIVE ME and carry a spare STOCK oil sender as a plug if a line cracks)

 

Buy a volt meter instead of a AMP meter as a AMP meter you splice the meter into the circut.

oiladapterpressure_thumb.jpg

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Thanks everyone...I just knew that you would remember Hainz..(oh and thanks to everyone else...DanielC...that is correct as well...again thanks) Yep the old (cheap) plastic lines will get brittle with age and fail in time...AND that is the British pipe thread...that "1/8-28BSP"...I remember the discussion that the 1/8" pipe thread will "seem to work" but it is not the correct thread pitch....Hainz, what do you think about using copper lines?...I know that Autometer sells a kit for their gauges with the "good" plastic...but what about copper?..Good idea or bad?

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Copper???

I remember reading that copper will stress (engine vibration and during start up) also if NO stress loops added.

 

have to ask the racers what they use or ck out the Autometer website ans see what they use suggest.

 

I had another beater 510 and it had a nice BIG hose(like a brake line) with threaded connector ends on there. I liked it . The car went to the dump but kept the oil gauge and hose.

The bigger line will give more instance response also.

 

PS 1/8NPT is a x 27 while the BSP is a x28 thread

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I used SS braided line same as SS brake lines and made an oil pressure gauge line using earls adapters and fittings that way you can build it to length and not worry about heat or that plastic line cracking over time then you dont end up with a big mess and or a hurt engine...just ask 71DIMER he had to do the clean up on his 521 that broke the plastic line

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I hope someone here can direct me to my problem solve . My recently aquired

PU started this weird idiot light flashing dance sydrome . I checked things over with a digital temp reader . All check points checked out OK ! Plus I have no boil over issues . So I changed out the sender unit , problem solved , but ONLY for one day ! WTF is going on :eek: The person before had a BIG ASS stereo system , so wiring COULD be messed up:rolleyes:

 

Any ideas where to look , what to change out , test :confused:

 

Is it telling me the water pump is ready to go ? Maybe flush the block ( full of S**t so not getting a good reading ? )

 

Any help appreciated

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sounds as though the wiring to the sender is bad, or at least compromised in some weird way....check all connections as Hainz was saying..I would just replace the fuse anyway, check those connections for corrosion...maybe isolate the sender wire and just fashion a new one..just to test the circuit...(ya know like disconnect the wire at both ends and reconnect with a new wire point to point.).testing the wire integrety.....??

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Hainz : Yes , I did put in a new brass sender in ! Checked the back of the

instrument panel , all looks good .

 

Yeller : Started thinking some truth to the wiring connection on that temp sender . Seems to happened after I gunked/ degreased the motor . Tighten

the fit onto sender , but no change . Tried to trace down the wiring between the two connections .

 

So , can I just run a new wire from sender to the light connection , or is it special in some way with some other connection in between ????

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I assume the wire gets 12volts when key is on to the sender.Ck with a meter.

If yes I say the WIRE IS GOOD.

If I rememebr correctly it was 12 volts.

 

Now I assume the sender is just a thermal resistor that

 

the fuel temp gauge dont take much voltage to move the needles

 

all I can say is clean or send the sender so you have a good connection.

 

maybe the connector end is just corroded a bit ir was pulled over the years and its a weak connection.

 

I had a intermittand temp gauge and replaced the brass sender with new ring and lower housing as my housing cracked trying to remove the ring.

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most lines are 1/8

 

My beater has a almost brake size line and the oil pressure gauge moves faster.

 

MY other 2 cars and my fathers had the 1/8 in lines and was much slower

 

This is what I notice on my rigs.

 

I know what your saying,maybe its more instance because its pushing on the diaprham with more volume.

 

Maybe someone else can phrase it better but really the gauge is just a indication of what going on.

 

My 521 mostly the oil gauge saves me from low oil(Duh). My pressure is good at start up then bounces between 40-60 which is still good but every time it does this it always just barely reading on the dip stick ,so thrust your

gauge.

If this was a oil light Im sure the light will be off as someone said that it only takes like 5 pounds to make the light go OFF.

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YA KNOW WHEN i WAS A KID AND THOSE "IDIOT LIGHTS" FIRST APPEARED, i REMEMBER THAT "THEY" USED TO SAY THAT YA HAD TO BE AN "IDIOT" TO TRUST THE LIGHT...CAUSE (IF i REMEMBER RIGHT) IT DOES ONLY TAKE LIKE 5 LBS OR SO TO TRIGGER THE LIGHT..AND BY THAT TIME THE ENGINE WILL BE "TOAST"..IDIOT! (i AM SURE MY OL MAN SAID THAT BACK IN '56 WHEN WE GOT OUR NEW BEL AIR...)

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Hainz: Wouldn't it barely be on the dipstick due to the fact that most of the oil is in the engine, rather than the pan? I always thought that you were supposed to check oil pressure with the engine off for a short time, to make sure all the oil drained back into the pan...

 

If you had a larger line, I suppose the gauge could respond quicker, just due to the fact that it requires less pressure to get a reading... or, at least that makes sense to me. Larger diameter = more volume... more volume means that a lower pressure can be used to exert the same amount of force in a given time... A small change in pressure would be more noticable with lower pressures than high pressures...

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Yeah, this is my first post, so I figured why not jump right in here. I'm not sure about the fascination with mechanical gauges, especially with all the risk that the mechanical oil pressure gauge carries with it. If mechanical gauges are all that, why don't you use a mechanical temperature gauge?

 

Here's a link to some information from one of the gauge manufacturers. http://www.classicinstruments.com/index.aspx?documentID=mechanicalvselect1

 

As far as the concept of line size affecting the response of a mechanical gauge I will pose that the amount of trapped air in the line will have a much greater impact on the responsiveness compared to the normal sized line used. If all the air is removed from the system, then the actual amount of fluid Flow approaches zero. How flexible the line is will play a part too. Image a line that was a real soft rubber like material. It would slow down the response because it's volume would change as the pressure changed. It's known as an accumulator or buffer.

 

Anyways, no matter what your opinion is, it's still fun working on your rides, no matter what they are! :)

 

Have Fun,

 

Jeff

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Hey... I do use a mechanical temperature gauge. And oil pressure gauge. I've run electric gauges as well... response time has always been kinda slow on the electric oil gauges. Still better than a light though.

 

But I'm not such a luddite that I would prefer a sight glass for a fuel gauge.

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Speaking of sight glasses... I work with heavy machinery, and not all the machines have fuel gauges, and none have hydraulic oil pressure gauges... I've had to check fuel and oil levels by eyeballing them through the filler caps or sight glasses...

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