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610 KA ~T U R B O~


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OK guys here is the story.

I built this 610 from the ground up a few years ago. Many have seen it at the Canby show these last few years, or circulating the web.

http://home.comcast.net/~suchy3072/610build/Page%201.htm

 

Last fall I decided it was time to sell it, new opportunities were presenting themselves.

http://home.comcast.net/~suchy3072/Page610/610sale.html

 

After a few months on the web...

http://bringatrailer.com/2009/09/09/bat-exclusive-1974-datsun-610-hot-rod/

 

It finally sold to a guy named Jerry in the Norther California area (Ratsun user: datluvr). Dont worry this car will not fade away into history, Jerry is active in the datsun community and will give it a great home.

As part of the sale, he opted for the turbocharged option. I had offered this as something to help sweeten the deal and also to put the icing on the cake. The car needed the power to go with the looks. We agreed on a price and I got to work. Over the past 2-1/2 months I have been hard at work on the project and thought I would make thread about it.

 

Turbocharging a KA24DE is nothing new, so there is plenty of information out there about the in's and out's of the job.

The goal was 300WHP on the stock engine. The car dyno'd at 154HP at the wheels in N/A form, we the goal was to double that.

The 610 is blessed with a larger-than-a-510 engine bay, which helped out a lot!

The setup: The buyer wanted the best of the best for turbochargers, so we decided on a Garrett GT2871R. This is high-flowing, quick spooling, water cooled, ball bearing turbocharger. Reliable and powerful, perfect! All the parts were ordered and work was stared.

engine management was going to be handled with an AEM FI/C-6 piggyback. This was the most cost-effective and fitting solution for the job. A full-blown stand-alone would be overkill...and very expensive.

 

By the way, as I write this, the car is up and running with the turbocharger system. This all happened between mid-January to mid-March.

 

STEP 1: Find an intercooler and mount it. The intercooler chosen was a tube/fin style. This was chosen because it allows more ambient air to pass through it, thus not starving the radiator of cool air. And, it will cool plenty for 10-12psi of boost pressure.

After some fiddling, it was mounted in place that did not require any modification to the grille or lower valence. It did however require enlarging some holes in the core support to pass the pipes through. Also, it left plenty of open area for the radiator.

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STEP 2: Oil Pan. The oil pan was pulled off the engine and cleaned. Then I welded a -10AN fitting on the side for the turbo oil return. The pan was cleaned again, paint was touched up, and it was re-installed.

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STEP 3: Exhaust manifold. The exhaust manny was ordered from JGS turbo. They delivered a log-style maniold without the turbo flange placed. I was going to do this myself.

With the manifold in hand, I was able to position the turbo exactly where I wanted it. I did consider a top-mount option, but I could not find a turbo position that I would be happy with, it came very close to the brake master cylinder and also the hood.

I went with a bottom mount setup, this kept the heat of the turbo away from any sensitive areas.

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I tacked the turbo flange in place and then finish-welded it. This was then followed up with a few hours of grinding and sanding, to open up a hole in the manifold for the flange. When it was done, it was all free-flowing smooth goodness.

 

STEP 4: Piping. It took a few tries and many orders of elbows from www.siliconeintakes.com to come up with the best pipe routing. I chose a Synapse Engineering synchronic BOV. Recirculation of the BOV was going to be necessary. All charge pipes are 2.5" aluminum mandrel bent. After all the routing was confirmed, I welded up the pipes.

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After all the piping was mocked up, everything was sent out for powder and ceramic coating.

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Turbo fully assembled ready for final bolt-up

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I made a custom catch can and routed all the PCV lines to it:

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Oil supply Tee for turbo.

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Oil return

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Gauges (boost and wideband)

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(((I will update more as I have time)))

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This has always been my favorite datto.............. now it is even better.......... OMG SO much WIN

 

 

One question: I have a KA710 and I can't find a sway bar that fits around the T/C rod mounts and the front sump

I see you are running a MadDat 180b sway bar and it looks like a perfect fit....... Is it a custom bar or do they sell those? How much? and how much was shipping? How many weeks till it arrived?

 

EDIT: I found a 180b conversion sway bar on their website..... is this what you got?: http://www.maddat.com.au/suspension-parts.php

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Compression, FTW! This 610 only gets better and better.

Urge the new owner to join ratsun. We cannot watch this girl ride off into the sunset without some kind of updates...

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This has always been my favorite datto.............. now it is even better.......... OMG SO much WIN

 

 

One question: I have a KA710 and I can't find a sway bar that fits around the T/C rod mounts and the front sump

I see you are running a MadDat 180b sway bar and it looks like a perfect fit....... Is it a custom bar or do they sell those? How much? and how much was shipping? How many weeks till it arrived?

The one from a 610 should closely match your 710. I need to contact a friend to be sure.

And if that's the case, then you can use this:

http://www.racetep.com/datsunsusp.html

Second item down on the page...

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This has always been my favorite datto.............. now it is even better.......... OMG SO much WIN

 

 

One question: I have a KA710 and I can't find a sway bar that fits around the T/C rod mounts and the front sump

I see you are running a MadDat 180b sway bar and it looks like a perfect fit....... Is it a custom bar or do they sell those? How much? and how much was shipping? How many weeks till it arrived?

 

EDIT: I found a 180b conversion sway bar on their website..... is this what you got?: http://www.maddat.com.au/suspension-parts.php

 

Yes, 180B conversion sway bar from Maddat. I think after shipping, It was about $300. I dont remember how long it took to arrive, but it wasnt too long. I think I paid extra for air freight. It is almost a perfect fit, it rubs ever-so-slightly on the T/C plates.

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Just finished wiring up the AEM FI/C-6. It is a great alternative to full stand-alone for people that want tune-ability of there EFI without the huge cost. It is a piggy back that works with the stock computer. Cost about $350 or so, totally worth it in my book.

A little tricky to wire it up, but most of these older nissan (from the 1990's) ECU's are pretty basic and dont complain much.

 

I will do a write-up on KA-T.org on how to wire a FIC to a 1995 KA24DE, if anyone wants to duplicate it.

 

My 700cc injectors should be arriving soon, then it is time to hit the street and do some tuning (not at the same time of course, thats worse than texting and driving!).

 

Also, part of this swap was to pull out the 3.54 viscous diff and put in a r160 (subaru) 3.7 clutch LSD, so now it will do a proper burn out (the viscous never worked correctly...)

 

Of course there will be a vid, and if I have time, might take her out one evening for a round of glamor shots.

I edited the first post to include the Ratsun screen name of the guy who bought the car: datluvr , he said it was cool. So dont worry, it will stay in the community!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Aaron...um...ya updates PLEASE..! :D

 

Cant wait for Datluvr to get this thing home so I can take a ride in it :cool:

Clayton

 

I test drove it with the stock computer and the AEM FIC inactive and with the stock injectors. Just took it easy putting around the neighborhood.

Everything went well, so I got home and installed the 700cc injectors, then it stated raining. so now the tuning needs to start.

It is basically sitting in the garage waiting to be tuned. We are waiting for it to F'in stop raining so we can get some street time with it.

Will update as I make progress.

 

This thing will get dynoed, so I will post that when I have it.

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  • 1 month later...

UPDATE!

 

The car is now tuned! Tuning was done with the stock ECU and an AEM FI/C-6 piggyback. The great thing about this type of setup is that the stock computer controls the driveability, cold start, etc, then when the boost builds up, the FI/C steps in and makes things work. Best of both worlds. I would recommend the FI/C to anyone looking for an affordable engine management solution.

 

The car performed great on the dyno. After about 3 hours of tuning and gradually raising boost, we hit 295Hp at the wheels at 11psi!

Here is the dyno chart:

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You can see on the chart the graph for the original L20B, then the normally aspirated KA, and now the turbocharged KA.

 

After the dyno, I babied it home (it was raining) and it has been sitting in the garage ever since. I am scared to death to drive it at the full boost level.... it was really fast at 7 psi, spinning the tires into 3rd gear, and I now I cant even imagine.... But I have to take it out to get some more video footage, SO I better just nut up.

I am working on a video, should have it soon.

 

Jerry should be taking delivery of the car soon.

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You can see on the chart the graph for the original L20B, then the normally aspirated KA, and now the turbocharged KA.

 

After the dyno, I babied it home (it was raining) and it has been sitting in the garage ever since. I am scared to death to drive it at the full boost level.... it was really fast at 7 psi, spinning the tires into 3rd gear, and I now I cant even imagine.... But I have to take it out to get some more video footage, SO I better just nut up.

I am working on a video, should have it soon.

 

Jerry should be taking delivery of the car soon.

 

 

I would love to see the video.

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