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Aftermarket Wiring Kits, who has done it?


Jesse C.

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I have been thinking of just getting rid of the factory wire harness and considering that all the ones I have for my car came out of god knows what I really do not want to try and figure them out.

 

Painless Wiring is pricey but has been around for quite a while, EZ Wiring on EvilBay is cheaper and that is the sticky point with the "You get what you pay for" addage. They both make a 12 circuit system and promise to wire the whole car.

 

Getting rid of the stock fuse box for a newer blade style unit and having extra circuits would be cool.

 

Thoughts? Ideas? Shoot!

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I've bought one of the EZ kits, they are pretty nice. Each wire is really labeled every 3 inches and I'd say they aren't the most quality but I don't think you could do much better buying the stuff from a local auto parts store.

 

Got my 12 fuse setup for 30 dollars at xmas on sale.

 

But I'm also having to redo the entire harness, mine was cut in 5 places on every wire and is missing half the wire. lol

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Thanks for the advice. I had the idea of using the plugs off the original harness pieces once I figure out what is what on them.

 

My car had none of its original harness pieces and I have collected pieces here and there over the year. I have the rear harness, cabin harness and the engine by piece is out of a Wagon and I have no clue if any of it will match up.

 

I think I will give Vintage Connections a look and see what I find.

 

Thanks again!

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I've bought one of the EZ kits, they are pretty nice. Each wire is really labeled every 3 inches and I'd say they aren't the most quality but I don't think you could do much better buying the stuff from a local auto parts store.

FLAPS wire is significantly poorer quality compared to the replacement harnesses...says the guy who used some house wiring..no Romex though. :P .

 

There's two other companies worth looking at, but I don't remember their names right now. :( My druthers are EZ as I don't believe from what I've read and heard that the Painless is worth the extra $$$.

 

Definitely go with Vintage Connections for new connectors. Their crimper is also great. I got a similar unit off eBay.... EE Industries.

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I have done a full painless kit in my dime ... the kit is great quality. .. pricey but good stuff.. wiring is a total pain in the @$$ so I dont think there is much that is painless about it. match a painless kit with mil spec wiring loom and replacing all connectors with weatherpacks it can get pricy fast .. the nice thing is that I know every wire in my car where is goes and what it does .. best advise I can give if someone is going to do this.. is get a good soldering gun and take your time.

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i have done 2 ez wire kits first on my 2dr 510 and now one on the 521 the are very simple to use. when i do them i separate the front from the rear, and the dash and wrap it before i put( i leave enought to do the crimping ) it in makes it a hell of a lot easier for me at least

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  • 2 weeks later...

I did an EZ-2-Wire kit in my 510. Reasonably easy to install. The only hard part is adapting the ends to the Datsun components. For things like the dash just graft a few inches of the datsun pigtail into end of the harness. As for tail lights, get new sockets. Most kits either come with the correct headlight connectors, or you can get those elsewhere easily.

 

You could do it all in a weekend.

 

The biggest problem is that the 510 switches to ground for the brights, and the aftermarket harness do not. Haven't figured out a way around this using the stock switch yet, but it's a minor problem. With a generic switch you could solve the issue.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm currently rewiring for my 240z with an EZ wiring setup and am just saying screw it to all of the classic connectors and upgrading to more modern molex connectors that I picked up for Fry's Locally... I like them a lot more anyways.

 

All in all, it's not too tough with the right schematics... The wiper motor wiring for low/high from the column switch is a pain, but when it's all figured out, it goes together quite easily.

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I'm currently rewiring for my 240z with an EZ wiring setup and am just saying screw it to all of the classic connectors and upgrading to more modern molex connectors that I picked up for Fry's Locally... I like them a lot more anyways.

 

All in all, it's not too tough with the right schematics... The wiper motor wiring for low/high from the column switch is a pain, but when it's all figured out, it goes together quite easily.

 

What size is the harness? As in fuses and are you using the Mini or regular style?

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I'm currently rewiring for my 240z with an EZ wiring setup and am just saying screw it to all of the classic connectors and upgrading to more modern molex connectors that I picked up for Fry's Locally... I like them a lot more anyways.

 

All in all, it's not too tough with the right schematics... The wiper motor wiring for low/high from the column switch is a pain, but when it's all figured out, it goes together quite easily.

I would order stuff from mouser. they have weather proof, higher amp rated connectors. those molex connectors from frys can only handle lower loads.

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You need to see what fits *your* setup. Some kits come with circuits for power windows, power locks, heated seats, and everything. Obviously most of us wouldn't need those circuits. BUT, if you're running efi you'll need a circuit to power that, so choose based on what you'll need for the setup you have. The electric choke circuit works for powering efi perfectly.

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^^^ I've tried the above idea, and it sucked, horrifically. None of the wires end up being the length you want, many of the wires don't go to features you want, the switching doesn't work the way to want for each circuit, and getting a fuse box to work with your needs is downright impossible. I tried 3 different late model harnesses, threw them all away. I tried to make it work, but it just doesn't. Getting an aftermarket harness is infinitely easier, and everything works they way you want it to.

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I am using the 21 circuit, in black. I have power window conversion already in the pipes and other things... I figure I might as well have too many, than too little. I could have probably run the 12, but heck... it's not that much of a price increase for having an extra few circuits around.

 

The Molex connectors I'm using are only for the basic lighting items and switches... anything that's pulling any significant high current is all going through relays anyways (headlights, ECU, Fuel Pump, Etc.) , so I'm not too worried.

 

Essentially, I have my tails, (which will be led bulb converted), my turn signal switch, wiper, H/L switch (all relay control), and dash harness (gauges/sensors/etc) on molex. My ignition switch is relocated to the center console with push button start there as well, so it's right next to the fuse panel and I'll wire it directly.

 

You can see the fuse panel in pictures in my thread in my signature of what is in process there.

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  • 4 years later...

I did an EZ-2-Wire kit in my 510. Reasonably easy to install. The only hard part is adapting the ends to the Datsun components. For things like the dash just graft a few inches of the datsun pigtail into end of the harness. As for tail lights, get new sockets. Most kits either come with the correct headlight connectors, or you can get those elsewhere easily.

 

You could do it all in a weekend.

 

The biggest problem is that the 510 switches to ground for the brights, and the aftermarket harness do not. Haven't figured out a way around this using the stock switch yet, but it's a minor problem. With a generic switch you could solve the issue.

I realize it has been quite some time since you did this project..... but, it is one I am tackling now.  How did you work out the ground highbeam issue?

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  • 2 years later...

i have done 2 ez wire kits first on my 2dr 510 and now one on the 521 the are very simple to use. when i do them i separate the front from the rear, and the dash and wrap it before i put( i leave enought to do the crimping ) it in makes it a hell of a lot easier for me at least

Hey I know that this was posted a long time ago but I'm in the process of trying to revive a 521 and I was wondering which harness did you use on your 521?

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