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HEI wiring pics w/ writeup


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Ok as you guys know I now have my electronic dist. & HEI module hooked up & the 620 is running great now. I thought it would be good to post pics of the wiring & the writeup Mklotz sent me. Without Mike & Ryan's help it wouldnt have gotten done so soon so a big thanks to those guys. The dist. came out of a 76 610 w/ L 20 motor....

HEI1.jpg

HEI4.jpg

the letters on the HEI L to R are...W G B C

HEI3.jpg

this is the HEI i went with...

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=NIE&mfrpartnumber=DR400CS&parttype=194&ptset=A

I plan on moving the HEI & using a small piece of alluminum under it to act as a "heat sink". The HEI's tend to get hot & that's not good for them.Also make sure the HEI is grounded or it will malfunction.

 

>

>

> Wiring for the HEI unit.

>

> W - Connects to the positive lead at the distributor.

> G - Connects to the negative lead at the distributor.

> C - Connects to the negative side of the coil.

> B - Connects to the positive side of the coil.

>

>

> Okay...I'll add this to it........

>

> You will need a new wire from the RED wire on the dist to the W on the HEI

> unit.

> You will need a new wire from the GREEN wire on the dist to the G on the

> HEI unit

> These two wires are what "senses" the tiny voltage spike that will be sent

> from the pickup in the dist.

>

> You will need a new wire from the (+) of the coil to the B on the HEI

> unit. This provides the power to the HEI unit. It's electronics needs to

> get power from somewhere. You will "add" this wire to the existing wires

> on that terminal of the coil. You will have wires on there from the

> ballast resistor, the "start/crank"(full 12v) wire from the ign switch. Do

> not remove the ballast resistor unless you have a coil that is rated for a

> constant 12v. If you remove the ballast, you can simply connect the two

> wires from the resistor together. You may have only one wire at each end

> of the resistor and then you have a 2nd wire on the (+) term of the coil.

> The second wire is the "start/crank" wire from the ign switch. You should

> be able to see which wire runs from the resistor to the coil. If not, the

> black/white is from the resistor and the red is from the ign sw. If you

> simply take the resistor out without connecting to the two wires together,

> your engine will only fire when the key is in the crank position and will

> die when you quit cranking. If you remove the "start/crank" wire, you

> will still get volts to the coil through the resistor in the crank

> position(I double checked that on the '74 620 w/man trans wiring), but the

> starter pulls a lot of amps and you may not get enough power to the coil

> to get a good enough spark to start the eng.

>

> The wire from the (-) term of the coil can be the old one running to the

> dist, but I'd just run new and disconnect the old one. You may have two

> wires on that term...one will be the tach if you have one. This wire runs

> to the C on the HEI unit and turns the coil on and off like the points

> did.

>

> The HEI unit grounds itself through the metal plate on it's backside and

> the collets in the mounting screw holes. You want to make sure you mount

> the unit to a piece of aluminum with a small amount of heat sink compound

> for heat transfer. Then mount the alum bracket to a good chassis ground.

> I would try to tuck it up, more out of the way so that water and debris

> flying up don't hit it. It was designed to be inside the GM distributor.

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