I thougt a dogleg trans was a direct bolt in swap into 510

[izzo]

Its only faster if you painted the transmission or put a sticker on it.

 

 

+rep for accuracy!

[HRH]

The trans in my 510 is an '80 HL510 dogleg (goofy shift) from a Z series equipped car with an L series bellhousing/case. Works great!

[metalmonkey47]

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Category:Drivetrain_Modifications

 

:)

[That4doorKiD]

Well you're committed in a way, so nothing to loose. Make a wedge to support that dogleg and remove and bend the shifter to the left. You may have to mod the shift hole for clearance.

 

 

Hey Datzenmike.. quick question, I just put my dogleg on my 510, and I put a rubber spacer from a L-20b 5 speed tranny on to my stock 510 tranny mount. The rubber spacer is on my tranny mount and bolts on the the dogleg mount, BUT the rubber is too thick for my tranny mount to bolt on my 510. The mount doesn't touch the car by like 2-3 inches. So should i cut the rubber mount? Any ideas :confused: 

[shacks510]

You'll have to space down the metal crossmember. I used rubber exhaust hanger donuts because they worked, but it will get in the way of the exhaust. Ideally you want to get a crossmember modified so that rubber mount will be recessed downward from the mount. About 3/4".

 

This is I believe the later style, but works the same. Notice the center part cut, sunken, and welded.

[datzenmike]

I sectioned my 710 mount in a similar fashion. You can also build your own mount from plans in the Dime Quarterly Google Docs.

[LenRobertson]

I'm a mediocre welder, so when I put the dogleg in my 510, I followed the DQ article to make spacers to lower the whole tranny cross member. It worked, but by the time I bought the steel, metric studs and nuts and did all the thinking involved (I hate thinking!), I ended up wishing I'd bought the custom X-member that somebody sells. Sorry but I'm a total blank on who sells it or if it is even still available. Maybe someone has a link. With the DQ spacers you lose an inch of clearance for exhaust which may or may not matter.

 

Years ago when I first got interested in Datsuns, there was a method of lowering the rear of the tranny that involved something like flipping the X-member 180 degrees or maybe using an auto X-member and using two BMW 320 tranny mounts. But I never see that hack mentioned anymore and I wonder why. Did it not work very well or are those BMW mounts not available anymore? I recall when I checked with BMW parts way back when the mounts were about $25 each and since two are needed, I passed on that idea. But it always seemed like it would be quick and easy. Probably something about it I'm not remembering.

 

Len

[banzai510(hainz)]

Techno Toy Tuning has X members its on one of their pages

[LenRobertson]

Techno Toy Tuning has X members its on one of their pages

 

Thanks for coming up with the name. Here is the link:

 

https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/510/datsun-510-universal-transmission-mount

 

Seems to me like a reasonable price.although shipping and a Z car tranny mount would add to the total cost.

 

Len

[Draker]

There are 3 options...

1. Section it like mentioned above which will lower the trans a bit. Doesn't help if the bolts don't align perfectly. (see #2)

2. Create some spacers as mentioned in DQ. I tried this and I still couldn't get it to bolt up because the mount holes were mis-aligned by 1/4". Yes, many say this is a direct bolt in. That's not entirely true if your are fabbing up spacers and stuff. Which leads to #3

3. The VG30.com trans crossmember. Although do to personal issues the original maker of these crossmembers may not be able to fulfill your order. T3 has copied these rear crossmembers and offers them for a decent price. This is the option I went with and it truely made this transmission a bolt in.

 

https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/510/datsun-510-universal-transmission-mount

 

 

[Draker]

Also you need to use a Z car trans mount with this crossmember.

 

78 280Z

 

 

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=441258&cc=1209260&jnid=430&jpid=0

[Draker]

After you do all of that.........

 

 

 

 

It bolts right in..

[That4doorKiD]

After you do all of that.........

 

 

 

 

It bolts right in..

Thank You! I'll go with the x member

It's just my first time swapping this so I wasn't aware of these mods needed. Everyone says it's a "bolt on swap," i guess it depends what bolt on is :geek:

[banzai510(hainz)]

soemone said a long time ago there is a GM trans mount(off the self) that is similar to the Z mount that imay work. Those orange poly type

 

i got my 280 mount from Napa

 

Draker you sure its a 280z or Zx mount as I know it was 280 but forgot which.

 

Anyway Napa said I bought the last one un;less maybe Rockauto.com has some

[Draker]

soemone said a long time ago there is a GM trans mount(off the self) that is similar to the Z mount that imay work. Those orange poly type

 

i got my 280 mount from Napa

 

Draker you sure its a 280z or Zx mount as I know it was 280 but forgot which.

 

Anyway Napa said I bought the last one un;less maybe Rockauto.com has some

 

 

Mount fits:

 

NISSAN 260Z (1974 - 1975) NISSAN 280Z (1975 - 1978) NISSAN 280ZX (1979 - 1983)

[datzenmike]

Thank You! I'll go with the x member

It's just my first time swapping this so I wasn't aware of these mods needed. Everyone says it's a "bolt on swap," i guess it depends what bolt on is :geek:

 

A total bolt in is a 71B 4 speed replaced by a 71B 5 speed. Except for the 610, the next closest swap is the dogleg 5 speed anywhere that the F4W63 4 speed was. The rear mount needs some work.

 

 

 

This didn't work. Moving the cross member back into the automatic position (autos are longer than 4 speeds on the 710) allowed the 71B 5 speed to bolt up but the tail was too high, raising the shifter through the hole in the floor and raising the front of the drive shaft. To get it back into the same position as the four speed I cut out and added this...

 

 

 

The cut out section that holds the mount above, I just welded to the plate below.

 

 

[LenRobertson]

Thank You! I'll go with the x member

It's just my first time swapping this so I wasn't aware of these mods needed. Everyone says it's a "bolt on swap," i guess it depends what bolt on is :geek:

 

It is lots easier to for guys to say it is a "bolt on swap" than it is to post all the details involved in actually doing it. Depending on whether you are swapping out a 4-speed or an auto tranny there are different things to deal with. As you found out in this thread, the tranny X-member needs to be massaged and there are a few ways to do this. In a perfect world someone would write a How-To on swapping in a 5-speed that covers all the details and different ways to do it, but it would be a looong article.

 

Here is the DQ X-member spacer article: http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/p/back-issues-ordering.htmlGo to Volume 9, Issue 2.

This method does do the job of lowering the crossmember. It you don't plan to go with huge exhaust diameter or extreme lowering of your car, then the TTT X-member may be overkill. I recall one problem I had with the DQ method is I initially tried using my auto X-member which is slightly different than the 4-speed one. I couldn't get it to quite fit. Eventually I remembered I had a 4-speed version squirreled away in my parts and it fit the DQ spacers just fine.

 

Len

[Draker]

It is lots easier to for guys to say it is a "bolt on swap" than it is to post all the details involved in actually doing it. Depending on whether you are swapping out a 4-speed or an auto tranny there are different things to deal with. As you found out in this thread, the tranny X-member needs to be massaged and there are a few ways to do this. In a perfect world someone would write a How-To on swapping in a 5-speed that covers all the details and different ways to do it, but it would be a looong article.

 

Here is the DQ X-member spacer article: http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/p/back-issues-ordering.htmlGo to Volume 9, Issue 2.

This method does do the job of lowering the crossmember. It you don't plan to go with huge exhaust diameter or extreme lowering of your car, then the TTT X-member may be overkill. I recall one problem I had with the DQ method is I initially tried using my auto X-member which is slightly different than the 4-speed one. I couldn't get it to quite fit. Eventually I remembered I had a 4-speed version squirreled away in my parts and it fit the DQ spacers just fine.

 

Len

 

 

I don't know if it's a characteristic of the early dime... or just my car but the bolt spacing made it impossible for me to use the DQ spacer option. Being he has a 68, it could be a factor.

[datzenmike]

Perhaps it's like my 710. There are 3 threaded bolt holes on each side of the tunnel. The trans mount cross member for the 4 speed used the front two holes and if you slide it back and use the back two (sharing the center hole) the same cross member fits the automatic. It may not be the same.

 

 

The term 'drop in' may also be used by those well advanced at doing this who have a welder and tools for whom a small fabrication isn't worth mentioning.