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Fix 510 door hinges


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#1 datzenmike

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 10:36 AM

By Mklotz70

I finally pulled a hinge off of one of my spare doors. It wasn't really bad at all, but I wanted to do this thread...so it got rebuilt anyway.

This is the RH, front, upper hinge.
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Here it is again after about 3 min in the sandblaster. You can see that it is stamped with RH and FRONT.
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I put it upside down in the vice with a nut to support the area around the pin. I gave it one smack with the hammer and it started to push out.
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I then used a drift punch to push it out far enough to release the knurling.
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You can just make out a small amount of wear on the bushing and the pin. Like it said, it wasn't bad enough to rebuild to begin with. I could have reused the same pin and saved myself some grief, but since this was just an exercise anyway. I figured I'd assume the pin was bad for the sake of this thread.
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You find a lip from the bushing inside. Use the drift to knock it out like you would a wheel bearing. Flip it over and do the other too.
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Old/new comparison of the bushings.
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Tap the new bushings in. TAP...don't pound. And hit it flat...I had the hammer propped on the vise to take the pic. I did both sides at the same time.
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Quick test fit to make sure the shoulders on the bushing weren't too thick
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I put the new pin in to get an idea of fit. The diameter is perfect, but there's a problem with the length.
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If you rebuild the hinge without cutting the pin, you'd better put the bolt in the hole first. The original pin is simply in there to show where the new one would be in relation to the bolt.
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I cut it off and beveled the end on the grinder. I'm pretty sure this is hardened steel, so you probably won't be able to cut it with a hacksaw.
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Now put the pieces together and tap the pin in. I had to refer to the hinge on my car since I sandblasted my alignment marks off(DOH!! read the siggy!) The knurling on the new pin is different than the old, so it bites pretty firm. I wouldn't worry about it coming out until it actually does. These hinges from the '68 didn't show any signs of the pins trying to come out.
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I didn't like the way the top of the pin was, so I cut it off too. I did leave a bit of shoulder. I then hit it with the wire wheel on the grinder.
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If you really want to get carried away, grind them smooth before you put the rebuild kit in.
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I had pulled the lower hinge at the same time. I lined them up to see if the same "kit" would work. It will.
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The drop on this door is actually from the lower hinge being bad.
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I did attempt to do this in the car. You won't be able to do it without chipping the paint. I'm not sure it's even possible to do the bottom hinge in the car. I think I'll rebuild a spare set, then start swapping. I may just rebuild enough to replace them all.


Start to finish, with all the sandblasting and everything, this didn't take 30min. If I had a handfull of these on the bench and wasn't worried about cleaning them up or anything, this wouldn't take more than 5-6 min each and that's if you cut the pin like I did. Don't have to be too bright to be me!
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#2 paradoxx

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 11:13 AM

nice job there.......as im working on my autoXr, I did this work, I took them to a shop, but it cost me around $10 each of the 4 hinges from the front doors.
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#3 INDY510

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 09:42 PM

Anyone have any good tips for "how to" align 510 doors.

Is it a two person job? I cannot get the door to hang right by myself, and the hinges are new.

#4 INDY510

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Posted 09 February 2010 - 08:04 PM

I still cannot get my door aligned properly by myself...

Anyone have any tips??? The latch is too low.... The door was more functional with the old hinges.

#5 hang_510

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Posted 10 February 2010 - 10:44 AM

I still cannot get my door aligned properly by myself...

Anyone have any tips??? The latch is too low.... The door was more functional with the old hinges.

only thing i know is that its a PITA!!!

untorque all the bolts, but keep them tight.
using a block of wood as a wedge for max leverage, maybe a rubber mallet for the final nudge.
tighten bolts.
check alignmnet of the latch. adjust if necessary.
redo, maybe 30 or so times <_<
then there are 3 (4???) more doors... in a wagon!

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#6 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 10 February 2010 - 11:29 AM

adjust door then adjust the plate. trial and error.

its is a pain soemtimes, but once done its a good feeling to have a non saging door.
Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#7 DanielC

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Posted 10 February 2010 - 11:50 AM

You need to adjust the door fit with out the latch in place. Adjust it around until it fits good. The hinges allow you to adjust up and down, in and out, and forward and back, at both hinges. When the fit is close, hold the door closed, and with a dollar bill, check the fit to the weather strip around the door. It should pull out with some drag, and not be so tight to tear the dollar bill. Watch also the front edge of the door to the fender.
When the door is fitting well, reinstall the latch. The latch also has adjustment for up and down, and in and out. Do not use the latch to lift the door into place.
Yes, is it a PITA, but once it is correct, you get the reward of the hard work every time you close the door.

#8 jefe de jefes

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Posted 10 February 2010 - 12:18 PM

Nice write up. Thanks for sharing.

So what's the part number for the new pin/bushing??
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#9 banzai510(hainz)

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Posted 10 February 2010 - 02:33 PM

Napa 675-5157

help/motormite 38397 from Schucks/kragon/checker

I reuse the old pin
Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#10 jefe de jefes

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Posted 10 February 2010 - 02:54 PM

Napa 675-5157

help/motormite 38397 from Schucks/kragon/checker

I reuse the old pin

thanks Hainz.

Banzai!!!!!
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#11 mklotz70

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 07:56 PM

I just found the pics that go with this thread.  I'm not going to put them in with text at this point, but it should help the thread at least a bit :)

 

hinge1_zps7a318710.jpg


hinge2_zps1867da84.jpg

 

hinge3_zps9d160d4d.jpg

 

hinge4_zpsacfc063a.jpg

 

hinge5_zps5d046b93.jpg

 

hinge6_zps8616b7f4.jpg

 

hinge7_zps05561427.jpg

 

hinge8_zpsbe3d67ab.jpg

 

hinge9_zpsc377633e.jpg

 

hinge10_zps7cce0d00.jpg

 

hinge11_zpsf489a17d.jpg

 

hinge12_zpsf39ff3bd.jpg

 

hinge13_zps3f8af1ac.jpg

 

hinge14_zps96105633.jpg

 

hinge15_zpsc257a064.jpg

 

hinge16_zps1061b99f.jpg

 

hinge17_zps4a05aee7.jpg

 

hinge18_zps0c0b709d.jpg

 

hinge19_zps907397ce.jpg

 

hinge20_zps33f00dc9.jpg


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#12 mklotz70

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 08:06 PM

It's really hard to read the Dorman number.....I'm pretty sure this is it.....  38397

 

Picture0001_zps8e074390.jpg


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#13 bababooey

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 08:01 PM

Very worthwhile repair. 

 

My old hinge bushings:

33506FF2-EC62-47CC-848C-91DCD08866A6-521



#14 d510addict

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 06:06 PM

Just an FYI roller blade bearing spacers work awesom for replacing those bushings.



#15 Laecaon

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 06:08 PM

I just did my driver door hinges last night. The lower hinge was a pain! But now the door latches so effortlessly!


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#16 Silver04rs

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Posted 07 March 2013 - 12:53 PM

Adding this to my "to do " list

 

Thansk for finding the pictures !!!