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Carburetor KA24E


Dustinv37

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Cause they just sound sooo good.

 

You got me there. Sounds like a lovers moans.

 

 

bc injection is a pain in the ass to much electronics carbs are simple and you can make more power easier with a carb

 

A single carb maybe. Multi carb would be 4 to the 4th times more bother to get in sync. Cool lookin' though.

 

OK... they sound and look good.

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They may seem similar.

 

 

NAPS heads. Z24 top and Z22 bottom. Runners are not equally spaced and have water ports .

 

00770026.jpg

 

 

 

KA intakes KA24DE left and KA24E right. The DE runners appear to be equally spaced are oval in shape and no water passages in the runners.

 

motorKA24DEg.jpg

 

 

.

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This is catagorically false.

 

And i have a KA-24E complete with harness& computer....(hint,hint..nudge-wink)

 

 

i have one two and it runs fine but theres too much to go wrong with electrical i dont trust it. i was thinking of making my own intake and put a two barrel holley on it

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Thats a DE in the pic. Looks like they cut up the lower half of the mani and welding on a flange.

 

You should read up on EFI its a lot simpler than you think. With the Nissan stuff its all about the MAF. Mass Air Flow sensor it measures the "Mass" of the air. Thats because that 14.7 to 1 ratio is based on mass not volume. If you have a leak after that sensor in the intake system you have a problem. You would have the same problem with a carb. Modding EFI for power is also cheaper than a set of side drifts and you have way more CONTROL. c

 

Imagine being able to set the exact amount of ignition advance you want at every 1000rpm interval and the computer blends everything in between for you. You can't do that with a match box dizzy and carbs. With those carb jets and needles your going to have to have trades offs. Its going to be to lean or to rich somewhere you would rather it not be. With even the EFI stock system you can have a no compromises tune.

 

Find a daughter card and some prom chips. Solder it up yourself and you should be able to do it for under $30.

-Dime

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 11 months later...

Somebody please talk to me about carb ignition for the ka24de. From what I've seen, there's no 'easy' distributor that can be used. Even the l-series distributors won't work, based on what I've seen. Is there a nice, easy way to get vacuum ignition advance?

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There are tons of options.

 

The easiest would be to keep the stock one and let the ECU control the curve. You can tune the curve by chipping the ECU. If you keep the MAF(or Z31 MAF ) and put a Throttle position sensor it will give you better than tuning options.

 

2nd not to hard and talked about on the board alot with pictures, is to get an L series oil pump drive shaft and dizzy. You will have to drill some holes and maybe do some grinding but its not hard. You can also ask Troy Ermish to build you one.

 

3rd would be to take the KA dizzy a part and try to stuff something in there. Maybe the guts of a L series dizzy or a GM HEI distributor. This only gives you RPM based advance.

 

4th run GM DIS/Ford EDIS/megasquirt/megajolt or some other crank based ignition. But you have to have a modified or custom crank pulley and some type of computer controller.

 

Running the stock setup is easy because you probably already have all the stuff.

 

-Dime

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I'd love to be able to use the stock setup, but the MAF won't work without a plenum of some sort (based on my ka24de experience, the ka24e may differ). Personally, I like carbs for their simplicity and that violent, raw noise you get from a rack of carbs (one per cylinder, sportbike style). So far, Megajolt Lite Jr seems to be the best solution I can come up with, either fabricating an intake manifold or cutting the stock manifold and adding silicone boots to connect the carbs to, and running vac lines to the Megajolt MAP sensor. I've been trying to find a little info on the KA distributor's internals, and from what I've read, it seems that the ka24e and ka24de are completely different beasts, ignition-wise. I haven't had a chance to pull either apart yet though, so I'm hoping to stand on the shoulders of giants and utilize others' experience/knowledge.

 

RPM based advance would be adequate, but not ideal. Adding some sort of vac advance to it would be fine, but again, I haven't been able to experiment with anything yet. I'm going to look into using an L-series front, I hadn't done any real research on that front.

 

Thanks for the feedback, and for letting me dig up this old thread. I'd rather keep an old thread alive and condense information than to have a pile of threads asking the same questions.

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The electrical end of the KA24E vs KA24DE(240sx) is the same. They both have the same disk and optical sensor. There are two version of the DE engine. The mexican(truck) KA24DE is just like the E where as the Japanese KA24DE(car) version has the cam driven dizzy. Most KA24de in the US are the car type with the cam driven dizzy.

 

The stock setup will work with out the MAF you will only have RPM based advance. If you can find a Sentra KA24E ecu it would make tuning the advance curve really easy Its 8bit and uses a standard prom chip.

 

If your really industrious and have some programming skills you could make a controller from an Arduino and use the output of the optical sensor and a GM maf sensor to fire the coil. This would give you a pretty nice setup and you could think about moving to wasted spark later. I have an CAS from a VH45 its very similar to the DE dizzy. I think the timing disk is the same size. You could swap them and it would clean up the engine bay when doing wasted spark.

 

-Dime

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  • 4 years later...

I have converted two ka24e MPI engines to carburetor. I used a 1978 - 1979 ford 2.3L engine carbs that I got a deal on from a local auto parts store that was closing. They are Holley two barrel two stage carb. I had to install a fuel regulator to lower the pressure to about 8lbs. The fuel regulator needs to be a three port style, there are ways to use a two port(which is what I did) just more work. The stock fuel pump is being used. I made adapter plates, kind of like a high rise intake. I bolted it on to the stock intake manifold. I left the injectors right in there. One took a little tweaking and the second ran good from the beginning.

I converted both of them to vacuum dizzy. Thanks to California Datsun , they have the distributor stand that needs to be installed that they sell with the matchbox style distributor. The installation is a a drill and tap the timing chain cover for the stand. Ebay had both of the oil pump shafts one was an L20b engine most preferred. The Second was was from the 240z engine. The ignition was set to 12 degrees. There is a power gain and worth the swap. I would like to add pics, not sure how to do it yet.

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