Electronic Ignitions For L motors (4 cyl.)

[Crashtd420]

Yup it's pretty easy....

[Crashtd420]

That picture was using the reply window to post it.... 

[mklotz70]

At the bottom left of the reply window is a paperclip...drag files here or choose files.  I did the choose files and it uploaded the pic onto ratsun.  We weren't able to do that years ago when I was a lot more active.  Loading them up to your own picture hosting site....it's hard to recommend photobucket, but they're much better right now than they have been for the last few years.  There's lots of other other option.  If you put them on your own hosting site, you can insert them again somewhere else anytime.  I'm kinda stuck with PB since I have around 7000 pics on ratsun, all hosted on PB.  

[Alexp521]

Okay  found the problem so the truck for some reason it work the way I had it wired the first time and the way I have it now like the diagram shows the problem was the green magnetic strip on the pertronix what I did was remove the green wrapper and install the parts back  and then it started like a top  so that was my solution  thanks for all the help 

[Crashtd420]

13 hours ago, Alexp521 said:

Okay  found the problem so the truck for some reason it work the way I had it wired the first time and the way I have it now like the diagram shows the problem was the green magnetic strip on the pertronix what I did was remove the green wrapper and install the parts back  and then it started like a top  so that was my solution  thanks for all the help 

Um i believe you actual do not want to remove that green tape.... 

I dont remember why but I remember that for some reason.....

When you first installed the pertronix did you set a gap between the magnet and the pickup? 

[Crashtd420]

  

From the pertronix instructions,  must be in bold for a reason.....

Edited November 22, 2020 by Crashtd420

[Alexp521]

I know I read this on the instructions but we removed it and it started right up  

[Alexp521]

This is the tape I took off and it’s from the old pertronix I didn’t want to brake the new one but  it’s working now

[datzenmike]

What's the point of the green tape? Is the magnet in pieces and it holds together? Is it Teflon coated in case something rubs it?

[Alexp521]

I have no clue but that’s the only way I got spark  on run when I took that tap off

[Crashtd420]

23 minutes ago, Alexp521 said:

I have no clue but that’s the only way I got spark  on run when I took that tap off

I have no clue why it's there either... Well if it's working, its working... 

 

[Alexp521]

And one more thing by any  chance  dose any one know where I can buy door window regulator  I know it’s off the topic

[Crashtd420]

1 hour ago, Alexp521 said:

And one more thing by any  chance  dose any one know where I can buy door window regulator  I know it’s off the topic

I know of a passenger window regulator that's available... I actually just bought a driverside one from the guy....

Other than that try placing a classified ad here for one...

[mklotz70]

You might try contacting tdaaj  ....he deals with a lot of parts.  

[banzai510(hainz)]

BW is ON  goes to resisitor  onw wire

 

other side resisitor goes to + side coil  and is the HOT Start  2 wires

 

 

NEVER take the GREEN TAPE OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  this holds the magnets and if worn out the magnet stick to the dist shaft and one pulls out the Ring. Don't pull out the ring just wipe it down and I put some superglue or nail polish varnish on the tape line so it don't peel.

You can get new mAGNET rINGS IF ONE FUCKS THEM UP

,

 

IF ONE ONLY GETS SPARK ON Run then you hooked up the wires wrong or the switch or the Ballast resisitor wire is wrong or fuse broke on the Black Wite wire routing

 

 

This is simple fix

Edited November 23, 2020 by banzai510(hainz)

[vicdat]

There's also another way to cheaply get deecent electronic ignition spark for you old L series.....20 years ago or so I bought a Velleman K2543 Electronic Ignition Kit for like $20 (available at old electronics stores like Marvac, RadioCrack, etc)...I installed it in a small "watertight" enclosure on the firewall. If you can solder this is a super easy and fast project (remember the old Heath Kits??) It has a built-in heatsink too.

This unit lasted many years in my '73 610, but was finicky if it got a little too much moisture. I replaced it eventually with the same unit, but this time I mounted it inside out of the way on the kick panel. Also - If you use a standard 4-prong trailers light connectors they can easily be made to be removed......also....if it went bad on me out on the road, it was just a simple wire change to use the points in an emergency. This is because the kit still uses the stock points  but only as breakers, so they never get hot, burn, or wear out. I'd still change the points every few years anyway cause the spring will eventually weaken. 

 

Vicdat

[Dguy210]

4 hours ago, vicdat said:

There's also another way to cheaply get deecent electronic ignition spark for you old L series.....20 years ago or so I bought a Velleman K2543 Electronic Ignition Kit for like $20 (available at old electronics stores like Marvac, RadioCrack, etc)...I installed it in a small "watertight" enclosure on the firewall. If you can solder this is a super easy and fast project (remember the old Heath Kits??) It has a built-in heatsink too.

This unit lasted many years in my '73 610, but was finicky if it got a little too much moisture. I replaced it eventually with the same unit, but this time I mounted it inside out of the way on the kick panel. Also - If you use a standard 4-prong trailers light connectors they can easily be made to be removed......also....if it went bad on me out on the road, it was just a simple wire change to use the points in an emergency. This is because the kit still uses the stock points  but only as breakers, so they never get hot, burn, or wear out. I'd still change the points every few years anyway cause the spring will eventually weaken. 

 

Vicdat

https://www.amazon.com/Velleman-K2543-Electronic-Transistor-Ignition/dp/B007GP6EQ6

Price:

$21.95 + $5.13 shipping

 

 

Edit: attached wiring diagram and parts list for general interest.

91L+BJJA0aL.pdf

Edited November 26, 2020 by Dguy210

[datzenmike]

 

Had one of these on my 4 year old '64 Dodge.  When the points close the 12 v is converted into a square wave. This is run through a step up transformer to 400v and charges up a capacitor. When the points open the 400v is fired through the stock coil for a higher output. I think it was around $50 in the day, about a weeks pay.

[Alexp521]

Thanks will consider replacing. The ring I have the new ring ther so ima roll with it till it doesn’t work any longer and then put the new one most like in the future ima  swap to a z21 I have a almost complet truck 

[OGmikeG]

Now, the Pertronix 1751 is not made to work with dual points distributors because the screws do not line up however as long as you can achieve the proper airgap between the magnet and module and the module plate is secured and grounded then it should still work in theory right? I have filed the plate down in mine to ensure that with at least one screw holding the plate down securely and have the airgap at .032 currently. Still havnt gotten spark yet but it cant be becuase the kit was not made for dual points distributors right? Some one here has to have gotten a 1741 unit to work inside the dual pts dizzy surely. Mine came with the 3ohm coil so I have removed the ballast resistor. Anybody have good experience w/ daul pts and electronic ignition?

[OGmikeG]

Ok fellas. I got it fired up and holding idle using a pertronix 1741 installed on a dual points dizzy with minor modification. Time to clean up the tools and shit off the car and will go for a test run. Will, first I need to add some more coolant as I lost some back when first messing with ignition. Thank you all for ALL the input you put here which helped me understand what’s going on under the hood haha. 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Be nice to see photos of a How To install.

Key is finding the sweet spot so you dont run out of time (slot length on the distributor mount). Or one can just put to TDC and make sure the magnet lines up pretty close when Zero on crank then lock it down.

 

most early Pertronix are the same module I bet. just the mounting plate.

As for the 3 ohm coil.? I think it will START better with the stock set up as you bypass the ballast and actually put more current to POINT  coil during start as the battery loads down to like 8-10volts anyways. Best on COLD days. then when key goes back to ON it see close to 3 ohms

[OGmikeG]

Yeah, I can def get some photos up, I'll need to upload the photos to some online site first then I can get them here to show What I did.