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It really is an infection...Datsunitis


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If you drained the bat dead it's going to take a lot more then an hour charge to get it back to par. If it's new see if it's covered under a warranty and take it back for exchange.

 

The only charge I trust is a shop charge with the old style set ups. Jump charging or idle/running isn't enough, even the autozone, advanced etc charges are bullshit.

 

Edidt I didn't even realize there was a page 2 lol. Dumb ass me is responding to page one posts......

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So i was at autozone on W 11th in Eugene yesterday and as i was getting in my car i saw an aqua greenish 710 goon go by. :eek: I got in my car and tried to catch up to the guy. He slowed way down so i could get next to him and the guy and his girlfriend were all excited to see me too. I havent seen another one of my car here yet so i thought that was pretty cool. :D

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  • 4 weeks later...

I really don't know what the deal is but my cars being weird. It keeps putting itself in neutral then back into drive (automatic transmission) I checked the fluid and it looks ok. anything else is beyond me. It also does that when im making turns but it's doing it more when i just stop. It's also got an oil leak. The puddle under my car is terrible. I learned this by putting oil in it. Now my temp. gauge works too so yea.

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Awesome! :) You can maybe grab a couple of broken down cardboard boxes to put underneath the car when you park. If you have red/pink spots the transmission is still leaking, if you have black ones then the oil is still leaking. If you do this, make sure to pick up the cardboard when you drive off. People here in Eugene are green crazy and will get all PO'd if you leave it laying around...lol...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Looks like a TIE ROD To me!!!!!!!

 

 

Thank you captain obvious :P The book is full of lies. I figured that out shortly after posting that. Nobody really pays attention to this thread at all though so i kind of gave up, didnt bother mentioning that or removing the picture

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Guest kamakazi620

Thank you captain obvious :P The book is full of lies. I figured that out shortly after posting that. Nobody really pays attention to this thread at all though so i kind of gave up, didnt bother mentioning that or removing the picture

No problemo!! can you "dub" me Capt.Obvious????

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Nobody really pays attention to this thread at all.

this is not true.

I'm wondering what you fixed, the oil sending unit or got rid of the Fram oil filter or both, you never did say. :unsure:

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  • 3 weeks later...

my brake lights are out. :( it was just one side for a week or so now it's both. the bulbs are fine. there's not corosion or anything like that. i just replace the fuse and the running lights work. Not so sure where the wiring all goes, all that is beyond me.

I think it may be related to my wiper spasm though. The heater seems to be blowing more than normal too. I think it's the volatage regulator. I need to do the saturn alt swap when the rain goes away....

 

 

 

 

 

:poop:

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Something just occurred to me concerning the headlights. The car has an aftermarket ignition switch in it right? And when you turned off the key, the lights went off.

 

Anyone know if the 710 is supposed to do that? Every Datsun I've ever seen has the lights wired independently of the ignition.

 

 

my 620 learned that trick from my VWs. :) actually its in the fusebox. at least it is on my truck now.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I fixed my alt today. I got a 60 amp hitachi and it bolted right in for the most part. We had to grind it a little bit, it wouldnt quite fit over the mounting bracket so we made it. still externally regulated but it works.

 

old

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new

30870_416565741583_612421583_5341401_16084_n.jpg

 

 

Made my charge light turn off for the first time since i bought the car in November

30870_416565746583_612421583_5341402_3332564_n.jpg

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yea im actually taking it down today for a quote. i have most of the stuff i would need, even wiring from my old car. Im not sure i want to put the sub in just yet i want a way to hide it a little. I work in the downtown area and i dont want people breakin my windows or anything. I might need new front speakers too im pretty sure they'll need to be shallow and smaller. I dont really know what to do about the rear speakers, like where to put them. I'd like to fix the carpets and do some dynomatting in the back before i put a sub in there, it's leaking just a little in the back too, i need a new rear door seal and to fix the rust on it.

 

 

anyone got any suggestions for hiding the sub? i have a couple ideas, building a shelf type thing, window tinting so on...

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i wont be getting a sterio right away after all :(

 

i have to figure out what i want to do. I dont think i want him cutting my dash up. I failed to mention the speaker behind the stock sterio. He said he doesn't know how deep that spot is so he cant tell if a deck will fit. I dont know if i should let him try there or just have it mounted under the glove box.

I also think i need to make new door panels before. Seems like it would be easier than taking the speakers out and all that. I'd also like to fix the rust on the door, the whole bottom of it is rusty and holy. i want it to be sealed so i dont have to buy boat speakers. My first car was a plymouth neon :angry: stupid stupid car. Speakers always full of water. Not going through that again.

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the deck should fit in the stock location it does in my 610

 

for front speakers they would need to be put in the doors or make boxes to put them under the dash i would think the rear would be the easiest part 2 6x9s in boxes mounted to the floor a sub box with 2 10s or possibly 12s (i like 10s myself they fit better in smaller cars) then get a cago area cover out of an explorer or somthing or make your own that way when they look in they just see the material and not the subs and 6x9s

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the deck should fit in the stock location it does in my 610

 

for front speakers they would need to be put in the doors or make boxes to put them under the dash i would think the rear would be the easiest part 2 6x9s in boxes mounted to the floor a sub box with 2 10s or possibly 12s (i like 10s myself they fit better in smaller cars) then get a cago area cover out of an explorer or somthing or make your own that way when they look in they just see the material and not the subs and 6x9s

 

 

ok thanks i think i know what im going to do now. I have a single 10 right now. i wont be doing more there just yet. my amp can only handle that sub, not another one it's size and thats all more than i can afford right now.

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