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Disk brake conversion 521


521newbie

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I am getting the parts together to do the front disc swap on my 521.

I have the following:

 

Lower control arms

rotors, calipers, soft lines, spindles, hubs

Custom upper arms (on their way from beebani)

SAE to Metric brake line adapters

Pads

upper arm bushings

 

A couple questions.. Can/should I use the stock master cylinder, if not what should I use?

I want to make sure I'm not missing anything. This is my daily driver and I can't be down too long. Much thanks for the help.

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I would not even consider running the single outlet master cylinder on it with the conversion. They are marginal when with the drum system, the seals are almost guaranteed to fail when you increase the needed master cylinder piston stroke due to the larger fluid capacity calipers.

 

The replacement master cylinder is going to depend on a couple of things. Are you going to try to get a power booster on it too?

 

I would probably consider the 7/8" bore 280z master cylinder for non-power brakes. If you are going to install a power booster then i would consider the 15/16" bore master cylinder from a 79/80 280zx.

Even at that, i dont think that either of these are a direct bolt on deal to the 521, but must have mount holes filed to make it fit(i think).

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The posts on the firewall and the holes in the master cylinder were slightly off. I used a file to elongate the holes. The 521 push rod is "captured" and needs to be pulled off by removing the wire clip at the end of the bore. The mushroom end needs to be cut off and round stock material needs to be welded to the end.

Because the original master cylinder is a single pot style you will have to modify the hard lines. The front lines need to be separated from the rear lines. You should also consider adding an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear.

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You should also consider adding an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear.

 

I understand that this is recommended, but is it necessary ? I will eventually do this swap and I am wondering if I should get a valve before hand or just get one when the opportunity comes up. How much more pressure do the disc brakes need?

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Might not be necessary. These trucks are really light in the back so the prop valve just allows you to reduce the amount of braking to the rear drums which avoids lockup. I'm sure you can get away without it but they only cost $40. It's not really a matter of pressure as much as balance.

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I would not even consider running the single outlet master cylinder on it with the conversion. They are marginal when with the drum system, the seals are almost guaranteed to fail when you increase the needed master cylinder piston stroke due to the larger fluid capacity calipers.

 

The replacement master cylinder is going to depend on a couple of things. Are you going to try to get a power booster on it too?

 

I would probably consider the 7/8" bore 280z master cylinder for non-power brakes. If you are going to install a power booster then i would consider the 15/16" bore master cylinder from a 79/80 280zx.

Even at that, i dont think that either of these are a direct bolt on deal to the 521, but must have mount holes filed to make it fit(i think).

Where can I get the non-power master???

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this link will get you fairly close. You may need to back up or go forwards a bit depending on whether you're logged in at the time.

 

About 3/4 down the page...the m/c stuff starts.

 

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=10314&page=7

 

 

If I remember right...it's a '79 280zx m/c you want....it was disc/drum. Yello620 may correct me on that...I know I got it wrong last time :)

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The 521 push rod is "captured" and needs to be pulled off by removing the wire clip at the end of the bore. The mushroom end needs to be cut off and round stock material needs to be welded to the end.

You won't be welding anything to the ZX master. Just extending the 521 push rod.

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climb under the dash...pull back the rubber boot and watch the linkage as you press the brake pedal....most likely, the ticking is either a worn pin on the clevis, or it's the mushroom end moving in the m/c..........because it's not designed to fit there.

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