L16 Fuel Pump Install?

[fisch]

Howdy everyone. I have a new fuelpump to install in my 521. Does the engine have to be a top dead center before I remove and replace? I've looked in the Haynes and it didn't mention TDC for this job.

 

What's the easiest way to get to TDC w/o taking off the valve cover? Line up the mark on the main crank and pull the distributor to see if the thing inside is at 11:20? (I've seen Hainz do it a million times with the valve cover off on the DVD.)

 

Yes, yes I am a noob. But a guy has gota learn, right!

 

On a side note, damn that is a beautiful pump! I swear it is like a piece of fine sculpture!

[kiznook]

no TDC needed. should be easy

[hang_510]

out with old - in with the new.

its runs off the off-center (drive thinggy) on the end of cam. cam position does not affect it.

new hoses and fire it up :D

[fisch]

Thanks guys! That's my kinda repair!

[datsunaholic]

Just remember, the bakelite (or aftermarket plastic) spacer is required. Forget to use the spacer, and you'll bend the pump arm and/or destroy the offset cam.

[fisch]

Just remember, the bakelite (or aftermarket plastic) spacer is required. Forget to use the spacer, and you'll bend the pump arm and/or destroy the offset cam.

 

Thanks Holic, I saw the spacer on the engine and hoped I could reuse it as long as I have new gaskets.

[71-521]

Just remember, the bakelite (or aftermarket plastic) spacer is required. Forget to use the spacer, and you'll bend the pump arm and/or destroy the offset cam.

I've been wondering about that....mine hasn't had one since I've owned it...10+ years now...maybe I should check into that..

[fisch]

I've been wondering about that....mine hasn't had one since I've owned it...10+ years now...maybe I should check into that..

 

I've noticed some pumps look similar, but have shorter rocker arms. I wonder if you have one of those? If so the spacer might have been removed?

[mklotz70]

The pump for my E1 looks identical, except that it has a shorter arm.

 

I always thought the bakelite spacer was to help limit the transfer of heat from the head to help avoid vapor lock. Just my thought...absolutely nothing else to back that up with.

[banzai510(hainz)]

where you get the pump from?

Is it Jap Koyosan or Nikki brand?

 

 

What's the easiest way to get to TDC w/o taking off the valve cover? Line up the mark on the main crank and pull the distributor to see if the thing inside is at 11:20? (I've seen Hainz do it a million times with the valve cover off on the DVD.)

 

No

just open the oil cap the cam lobe under the cap is the #1 intake lobe

just turn till the lobe looks like its toward the left(9 oclock position) then go to the crank pulley and slowly rotate it clockwise till you get to 0 deg(do not past it,keep chain titie ),go to 0 Mark/notch on the crank.(the lobe now will look like its it the famous 10 o clock position. ) This will be TDC fire stoke. then you can ck everything else Distributor drive ,plug wire location ectt.....

[fisch]

Jap Kyosan.

 

I got it on Ebay through QUANTUMechanics. (brit specialist out of Monroe CT.) Has the original box w/ shelf wear, rice paper instructions. But the pump was pristine, and the the rubber does not look dry in the slightest. $21!

 

I had bid up to $32 on one with the tubes on the wrong side a week ago. Glad I lost that auction!

[datsunaholic]

 

I always thought the bakelite spacer was to help limit the transfer of heat from the head to help avoid vapor lock. Just my thought...absolutely nothing else to back that up with.

 

That's why it's made of bakelite instead of metal. But the pump was designed to have that particular backspacing. Some of the pumps can handle being closer, but some can't and the plunger or bellows rod gets forced in further than the pump arm max swing... crunch.